foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
|
So another small update..... I'm continuing to clean the frame with wire-wheels and it seems to be working well. Put it this way I'm not going thru the whole sand-blasting trauma for what is basically a diversion from my original plans IE making stand for Imp engine becomes making trailer for Imp engine c/w stand becomes buying another trailer cos I can't find wheel for 1st one becomes.... So I probably mentioned some time ago there are alterations to the suspension mounts and I don't think I'll realistically work out what the extra bracketry is/was for and there was rust in between them and the frame rails so I decided to cut them off last ime I was down. They are now sitting in a citric-acid solution and I'm hoping this will free things up and yield at least one good wet-bolt Also one of the little brackets at the rear of the frame (which might be for lighting or something) wasn't welded on great and had rust behind it so that's been sliced off for prep before it gets welded back on redundant shackles c/w wet-bolts removed from framemetal underneath cleaned-up pretty wellsmall bracket on rear vertical frame rail was not very secureso removed it as it was also harbouring rust
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
Oct 22, 2023 23:19:50 GMT
|
I look fwd to going to the tip with mine winchmanBut only after I've learned to reverse a trailer - uphill at a 70 degrees bend (that's the scenario at our dump)
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
Oct 19, 2023 19:26:14 GMT
|
Not much of an update but I got rained-off work today and went to barn. Took one look at the condensation over every imaginable surface and said 'furck this' and decided to go home but then thought 'hey ideal weather fro degreasing outside as I have water coming from sky to emulsify the grease as I scrub with the degreaser' So yeah. Using this new-to-me product I scrubbed away and rinsed and most of the heave grease is gone. I scraped a lot of it off the other night but want all the film away before painting. cleaning the 'chassis' of the Epcousing this stuff. works pretty well
|
|
Last Edit: Oct 19, 2023 19:26:28 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
Oct 19, 2023 19:19:41 GMT
|
This isn't a great picture (too dark) and despite being at the barn today it was one of those vile warm but damp days where everything is covered in condensation so I didn't even go near the project(s) but took pic to show the frame is more or less solid again. Unexpectedly tho the pic does seem to highlight the areas I've been cleaning with the wire wheel ahead of painting They look brighter than I thought they were (due to the low lighting in barn at night) which is good. There is actually very little rust on the outside of all the original angle-iron or the main tube. The rust was really only heavy inside the horizontal section of angle-iron. Probably due to years or rain water trapped inside. Floor should really be drilled all over, to allow water to drain out front of frame repaired and a lot of the metal cleaned and/or painted
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
Oct 17, 2023 17:55:05 GMT
|
I used an ancient drum of that cheapo stuff (red) you see advertised here and there and found the trick was to ensure it was mixed well as the PO had bought it and not done that and it was basically clear with all the pigment at bottom. I met him years later at a bike show and he said 'that barn was a nightmare. it was so wet the paint wouldn't dry on floor'. I didn't bother correcting him. Later I tried Armstead floor paint (green) and it has been fine too. I actually manually wire-brush the floor (40' x 15') before painting it. Doesn't take as long as you'd imagine and seems to give a clean surface for the paint to stick to . . .
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
Oct 15, 2023 23:25:57 GMT
|
So I got my U-bolts an have to say they are pretty much spot-on with quite substantial jointing-plates. They were £16.02 (free P&P) which is not bad. Like £4 each unit. Only fly in the ointment is that I think I went a bit thin with the 8mm Might have said earlier but my original bits weren't all the same and I think I thought the thinner ones were 3/8" thick so 8mm would've been fine but I was obviously confused as it's 5/16" that's close to 8mm (7.9mm) and 3/8" is 9.5mm so I should have really went for 10mm option. Anyway I've got them now and am sure they'll be fine for light duty. They won't all snap at once. Ffs the previous owner was running around with a 5 cylinder engine in it and no hub-nut on one wheel and there was no drama so I'm saying the 8mm will be fine In other news I have finished welding on the new angle-iron at the front and have quite a lot of the frame painted. I'm wire-wheeling sections then putting on a coat of Hammerite. Will post pics when the painting is more complete. Also trying to decide how to do the wood. I just got some nice reddish woodstain for free and would like to use that but for woodstain to look good it really needs to be on bare wood and I can't see me sanding all the wood back to bare. I was therefore thinking of some sort of muted green or cream or something to contrast with the bright metallic blue. Saw a nice one by Sandtex one 'Bay Tree' which you can't get in gloss but is available the solvent-based Satin U-bolt kit for £16new ones are close in dimensions to my (longer) originalsbut are noticeably thinnerold plates next to new onesnew plates are thicker than both the old oneswoodstain appearance governed by what's underneaththinking of painting wood something like this
|
|
Last Edit: Oct 15, 2023 23:47:17 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
|
So I've actually got nearly all of the new metal welded in I've basically rebuilt the front end and there's a little bit left over which I could use to improve the rear RH corner. I'm reluctant to do this as it's passable and I really need to get this unnecessary project out the way (for a couple of years perhaps) and get back to my Imp pick-up but at same time it would only take another few hours so might end up doing it. I think I will finish painting the frame before I put the project on ice but can't see me sorting the wood out. I had a look at it all the other night and most of it is still surprisingly solid. It takes longer to repair bits of wood (splicing new pieces in) than it does to replace it but then there's the cost of all the new wood. Anyway that's just some musings so back on-topic.... I probably mentioned it before but the leaf-springs have special bolts in them with integral grease-nipples but, ironically, they look to have never been greased and the bolts are worn away (flattened) where they wer in contact wiht the eyes of the springs. I'm trying not to mention that there are actually 4 of these bolts but 2 were made redundant some timme ago as someone has adapted the frame and now only 2 are employed. I'm nit sure what the original design was a will probably never know unless I go back and try to trace the previous owners So what do I do about the worn bolts? Just stick them back in and manually grease them every so often or spend hours trying to track down identically-sized ones, or build up the worn bits with weld and file them round again? Next up are the U-bolts which hold the axle to the leaf-springs. There were 4 of these on the trailer plus 4 flat plates which connect each U-bolt to its partner on the other side of the spring. They are obviously scrap but I kept them for patterns and started searching the Net today for something the same. They aren't actually the same as each other tho. 2 are longer and a little wider than the other 2. The shorter ones would be better as a lot of the thread was unused. They are all 3/8" or 8mm diameter. I couldn't really find anything under 'Imperial' so will need to focus on 8mm ones but I think it's going to be hard to find ones the same bolts for eye of leaf-springs are worn flat in pointsthe bolts have their own grease-nipplesgrease comes out hereS N J 9 R possiblyneed 3/8" U-bolts with centres 45mm-50mm apart
|
|
Last Edit: Oct 8, 2023 0:17:52 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
|
Ok so just to re-cap on how it went in case anyone else has this issue. So I went to the barn last night planning to work on something else as I'd hit a dead-end with the jack but I had half an idea that I'd try pulling the remainder of the 1st grub-screw out with an extractor - just to really make a See-You-Next-Tuesday of the situation Luckily I had none of a suitable size and then for some reason decided to try and rotate the castor by hitting it with a hammer (not too hard) and I was pleased to se it moving slightly. After a bit of to and fro with this I noticed a metal bit in the groove of the pin. Turns out the end of the screw somehow came loose and fell inside. I turned the thing upside down and the little bit fell out so I continued with the back and forth using a big tyre-lever and eventually the castor came out. The design was similar to what I'd imagined except I didn't consider the end of the screw would be unthreaded and of a reduced diameter. Also didn't bank of the 'pin' being so wide. So thinking back to when I was drilling I remember a void appearing at the bottom of the screw and assumed I'd drilled squint or the casting was porous but obviously I'd just drilled into the groove on the pin. I still think I got lucky that the end was weakened enough to fall out but you can see from the pics that I drilled way past what I needed to. Another strange thing is that altho my drill hole was reasonably well-centred I didn't hit the mddle of the groove on the pin. Putting the castor back in shows that with the groove in line with the screw-hole there is a considerable gap at the bottom. Perhaps big enough to have a bearing-race in.... With the castor pushed right home the groove is partly above the hole. Bit strange. So after getting the first one out I felt that since the screw wasn't very long I could perhaps pull it out with the help of my MIG, rather than drilling and perhaps not being so lucky 2nd time. I'm still not sure how I ended up with nothing of the threaded part stuck in its bore. So I tried welding a nut on. This never works for me. Despite lots of heat and weld the nut just tore off and I didn't have any other spare ones around so I just welded a blob on the screw then worked it with a pair of vise-grips. As with the first one it turned easily at first then seemed to stick so I feared this one had snapped somewhere too but no it came out complete. After that it was lots of to and fro with large bar wedged in the castor and lots of ATF drizzled in but even with lots of up and down movement it wouldn't come our for ages but lots of cycles of twisting, dousing, knocking up then down eventually released it. Lastly. You will see from the pics there is a small pin or something sticking out the bottom of the castor pin where it's welded to the 'saddle'. When I was working the 2nd one free I swear this was stationary while the rest of the assy moved. I was thinking perhaps the main pin is not one piece. I can't see any signs of a collar or anything and it seemed solid once it was out but I could swear the thing moved independently of the skinny pin. Why is that there anyway? Oh and lastly I also got the large ring from the ram undone. I thought this would be a major issue and was thinking of making a toothed tool out of steel plate to loosen it but with some deft blows on varying teeth (to avoid mullering one) it came free. I thought the ram would come straight out of the housing after that but I guess whatever seal is inside is still gripping it tightly so, as Edd China says, that's a job for another day 1st screw and a little bit that fell out the end woop woop it's out I drilled into the main pin. assumed it would be narrower with castor pushed fully home (note drill hole) gap between castor and frame looks normal with groove on pin centred to screw-hole gap between castor and frame looks too big to be empty nut welded to 2nd screw was not a success so welded blob on top instead and got screw out. note reduced end large bar used to get things moving even with lots of up and down movement took a while to get the castor out large threaded-ring on ram fully loosened
|
|
Last Edit: Oct 5, 2023 23:20:53 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
|
Well after a lot of drilling, welding, dousing, twisting, pulling and tapping I have both the castors off and only casualties were the 2 grub-screws and the 1 lock-nut I'll post more details later but it was good to see them finally free and I can get the frame cleaned and painted now. Oh and I found my chuck-key. It was under the lid of the MIG welder 2nd castor off
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
|
Has done one a few things i have played with. The castor screws up from underneath then the nut locks it into place, sometimes the thread is used to adjust the free play in the swivel of the castors Ttfn Glenn I think we may have our wires crossed here.... The screw I'm tackling is a right angles to the (vertical) shaft of the castor. Screwing it in would just tighten onto the shaft I would think but, having not yet seen the castor out of its holder, I can't say. When I first read your post I thought you meant the castor was screwed into the housing as well as having the lock-screw thing. If that was the case it would never come out as the wheel would just rotate when you tried to unscrew it (unless it was seized like mine)
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
|
That's interesting about the grub-screws 93fxdlHave to admit I would have never thought of that. Does screwing them inwards release the castor from its mounting?
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
|
This is a big gap tho 93fxdlI remember one ball-bearing being missing on my push-bike headrace and the noise it made was quite alarming. I tried 12 in one wheel the other night and iirc there was stil plenty room for grease and movement but I'll have another look
|
|
Last Edit: Oct 2, 2023 17:36:14 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
|
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
|
I've seen the site but didn't realise you can contact the guy.Cheers
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
Sept 30, 2023 23:30:03 GMT
|
Not got any pics worth posting really but (with a heavy hangover) I kinda made progress on the castors today.... I got the oxy-acetylene on it, albeit with a very small nozzle (as I'd been trying to weld thin sheet recently and CBA changing it) and with some WD40 and lots of whacking with the impact driver the better screw started to turn, but only a fraction either way The slot in the screw (and my bit) were both getting mullered so I ended up just welding the lock-nut onto the screw and trying to unwind it with a spanner but this wasn't immediate. Eventually it came out and the reason was apparent.... The screw had broken about halfway down and one half was catching on the other when I was trying to turn it. When these things happen (and you are hungover and the weather is curse word so the barn is damp) it's tempting just to chuck everything in the fu**-it-bucket and move on but I persevered. Many years ago (trying to remove corroded exhaust-studs from an XJR1300 engine) I came up with an idea of drilling down a tube to get dead centre of any offending stud so I tried a bit of that. Small tube down the hole and drilled a 3mm(?) hole quite clean in centre. I then tried to widen this out with 5mm(?) LH drill-bits (bought for the XJR saga) and suddenly things went wrong. I've no idea how but suddenly everything was off-centre but not actually in the threads. I couldn't go any wider with the drilling as it would take away threads on one side so tried punching the remains of the screw downwards then going in again with the 5mm LH bit to see if it would catch a ragged bit and spin it out. This wasn't making anything worse or better then I couldn't find my chuck-key and gave up for the day
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
Sept 29, 2023 16:55:32 GMT
|
Thanks jimiThat's good to know about the gland-packing I still don't get the bit about the air-bleed but then again I don't understand how the pump works yet. Saw a really good video on YouTube about it but the system looks totally different to mine. From these pics can you say which part of mine is the fluid-reservoir and which is the output? view down bore with lid removedthese parts under the lid all go inside the ram tubetop of pump/ram assyunderside of pump/ram assy
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 29, 2023 23:51:12 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
Sept 29, 2023 14:24:55 GMT
|
So I started cleaning (degreasing) all the bits last night which is also a good way of examining everything and I have to say just about every part is showing wear of some sort. I know this thing is old and may have been used hard but it doesn't actually do any significant mileage lol. So why are the wheels and shafts so worn? Despite having grease points everywhere I'n guessing it was never serviced but then why does it show signs of having been dismantled before? Tbh the wear isn't that important as long as it lifts stuff safely so I may persevere with this but right now it's just stopping my from working on my Hillman Imp pick-up which has to be finished ASAP. One part of the jack that I haven't managed to take apart yet is the rear castors. They are seized on their vertical shafts(?), so don't swivel, but the wheels themselves do spin on their axles. I'm guessing there are ball-bearings between 2 thick 'washers' above the wheels so could probably get things moving again by tapping and lubricating in there but I'd like to get the assemblies off the frame completely and service them on the bench. The shafts presumably go up into the turrets visible from above but there are grub-screws seized into the turrets which must prevent the shafts from coming down. One screw still has its locknut. I don't understand what this arrangement was for tho. Why would you need an adjustable design? Anyway I've been at the one with the better screw with a Propane torch and an impact-driver trying to loosen it but it's not budging. There is a drilling on the opposite side of the screw so I could perhaps get penetrating fluid in there but it would probably just reach the shaft, not the threads on other side. Also can't see if this drilling is threaded. If it was I could drill out the existing side (ruining the threads) then put new screws in from the other side. Will try a bit more heat or welding nuts on to the screws or something first. Anyway here are a few pics relating to things I mentioned above and in previous post. Plus a few randoms. frame is not 2 totally separate halves. joined in 2 places towards front endthese notches govern where handle rests. looks like 1 got bentthese are the seals which were stacked on top of each other on the pump shaftrear castors do not swivel. presume there are ball-bearings in here somewherecastors must have vertical shafts which disappear into these turrets which have grub-screws in themgrub-screw on this side is in better condition and has its locknut but is stuck in casting
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 29, 2023 14:25:35 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
Sept 28, 2023 14:12:17 GMT
|
So I got the whole thing stripped down over a couple of evenings but have lost a load of pics so will need to re-take them. The only things that really surprised me is that the main frame isn't actually in 2 separate halves. It is welded together with a bar underneath near the front and the tube that the axle/spindle for the front wheels goes thru is also permanently fixed between the sides. There is enough flex in the frame to remove the ram/pump once all the bolts and bars have been removed. I was also surprised by the complexity of the pump/ram. Watching videos on YouTube etc I was expecting the mechanism(s) to just be a couple of ball-bearings with springs down some drillings but on this the whole hydraulic assy comes out when you remove an end-plate/cover. It all looks clean and in good order but it's obviously been apart before as almost every part shows signs of rough-handling and there is a score mark (for alignment) between two of the main parts. There are also no conventional seals. The two rods which do the pump and pump-release go thru seals but they are made of asbestos or something. Definitely not rubber. The seal for the main pump rod was actually 6 of these stacked on top of each other. Am not sure I can face the hassle of trying to locate new ones jack broken down into many bits 'lid' removed from pump has lots of nicks on the sealing face small seal for pump release-rod this plug on ram end of pump assy looks to have been tampered with before
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
Sept 28, 2023 0:01:47 GMT
|
Hi guys. Just to say I forgot I started a thread on this years ago (with almost identical title!) and will be continuing the updates on the original thread
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 28, 2023 0:02:57 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,380
|
|
Sept 27, 2023 23:59:34 GMT
|
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 28, 2023 14:00:51 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
|