foxy99
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It is sad that this thread won't be finished but you never know - the van might be.
Just read the full listing on Ebay and it's spot-on. Covers all bases, very honest and also adds info I wasn't aware of such as the fact all the original bits including cupboards were carefully stored.
The fact that the bodywork is complete must be a huge selling-point
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Thanks redratbikeYes. I think it's a known issue that has been forgotten about Weird thing is the cover doesn't have its own part-number. I only found it when searching under the part-number for the full EGR. IE the number on the Ford parts-list for the EGR is also the number on the box for the cover
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Last Edit: Jan 30, 2024 19:03:53 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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I can't really remember now chronologically all the steps I went thru and the readings (Ohms/Volts) I took on what wires and pins but fwiw I'm pretty sure my wiring is fine. I'm also confident that all Euro IV Mondeo EGR issues are to do with fried electronics in the cover. Well the plug attached to the cover. I was getting different continuity readings on the 2 used covers I had and ordered a new Ford one. I took readings on that which seemed to make sense (per the values in the schematic posted earlier) altho there are only 2 values in that and there are 3 readings due to there being 3 pins. The values are 2K2 (2200 Ohms) and 1K5 (1500 Ohms) With the new cover on I'm not getting any codes on OBDII tool (yet) Dismantling the plugs further you can see two different types of electronics. One uses a magnet atop the plastic pin which passes something on the little circuit-board. The other uses a brass contact with tiny fingers. I had some success getting my Ohm-meter needle to move while simulating the contact passing over its circuit-board new EGR cover 1600(?) Ohms 1500(?) Ohms 2400(?) Ohms electronics inside one EGR plugmoving contact from this plug has a magnet in it different type of moving-contact in other EGR plug
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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If anyone is interested I took some more readings - from 2 different EGR-covers (same type) and find that there was a problem with the one I originally checked... Going back to (bottom part of) my post from 18th Jan I found that there should be continuity at pin #1 (which is +VE to open valve) Basically I pulled the plug off a spare cover and found that up to the plug there was continuity at pin #1, just like the one on other side (#5). There was also continuity between the pin in the plug and its spade on the other side so there must have been a bad connection between the spade and the circuit in the cover. This made sense to me as I'd been wondering all for days why one side would be different to the other. Anyway, after that, with the cover back on there was continuity between pins #1 & #5 (via the motor) and touching them with a 12V supply caused the EGR valve to work. So prior to this is't not surprising I was getting a fault code as there was no flow thru the motor. So I thought my problems were solved and got ready to swap this EGR for the other duff one on the car but then the valve stopped working when 12V was applied to the plug-pins so I assumed I'd burned the motor out or something . I topk the cover off again and the motor still works fine when 12V applied. Anyway that's enough info for just now and I have ordered an new cover but I can't understand what happened except to say that the plug should have a spring-loaded plastic pin on the back which rests on the end of the EGR valve. I found this out when I pulled the plug off the other EGR. My brain is a bit fried with this right now plug removed from coverchecking continuity of cover-terminals via motorthere was issue with break in continuity from spade on RHS to its track inside coverplug removed from another cover clearly shows plastic pin broken/missing from first onepin is spring-loadedplastic pin contacts top of EGR valve so moves up and down affecting signal when valve moves (or vice versa perhaps)NB I forgot to say the plug on the 2nd cover was showing different issues... it had continuity thru #1 & #5 but there was no continuity between the other pins (#2, #4, #6).
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Jan 20, 2024 16:10:44 GMT
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No probs big man. I'll print this off and take it to the MOT station
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Jan 20, 2024 15:37:36 GMT
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8.2.2.2. Opacity
Engine malfunction indicator lamp (engine management light or āEMLā) Turn on the ignition and check that the engine malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illuminates and then goes off. On some vehicles it will be necessary to start the engine before the MIL goes off.
You need to inspect MIL fitted to diesel vehicles including hybrids with 4 or more wheels and first used on or after 1 July 2008.then, further down (g) Engine MIL inoperative or indicating a malfunction (Major defect)I have a 56-plate Mondeo diesel which failed the MOT due to my MIL/EML light coming on during the test. I am trying to get to the bottom of the fault (EGR related codes P0403, P0405, P0409) but people are telling me the MOT tester has made a mistake so it's not necessary to fix it.... There seems to be different interpretations of the guidance above: - some say the tester can ignore anything MIL-related if the vehicles was first used before 1/7/2008
- Some say that if the light stays on it's a fail no matter what age the vehicle is
. Does anyone know the actual rule(s)?
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Ok so I did my checks tonight on the plug to the EGR (disconnected and ignition on).
#4 got exactly 5V #6 got 0.3V which was correct per a YouTube video #2 got nothing #1 got 0V #5 got 4v
The readings I got seem to look good so I'm pretty sure I don't have a problem with my wiring now but I can't yet test anything to see if values fluctuate when revving the car as I didn't manage to back-probe the plug. There's no metal showing around the wires so am going to need something sharper than what I used tonight.
Also just seen a video on YouTube where the guy energised the solenoid (pins #1 & #5?) with a 12V battery then took various Ohms readings on the other pins which I didn't follow.
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Jan 19, 2024 15:21:13 GMT
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Thanks jimiSince creating this thread I've found some more info... AFAIK the sensor-circuit is in the EGR-plug and the 3 wires (#2, #4, #6) control that. I'm going to check the values today (on the wires) with the ignition on, using Voltmeter. Someone told me the electrics inside the EGR-cover can break-down so if the wiring is ok I'll get a new cover. You can get them from Ford for about Ā£30 diagram of EGR and pinsmore detailed diagram of electronics inside the EGR-cover
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Last Edit: Jan 19, 2024 22:41:30 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Jan 18, 2024 21:14:25 GMT
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Any boffins out there that can help with this? I have a 56-plate Mondeo 2.2 which only has one EML/MIL issue and it's all EGR-related. I've fully-dismantled and cleaned 2 (aftermarket) EGRs so I know the plunger isn't stuck and there are no broken pins or teeth in the mechanism but they are both throwing-up same/similar codes which point towards problems in the sensor-circuit or 'A' circuit. I'm getting P0403, P0405 and P0409. Looking at resources online it seems that sometimes these are due to broken wires or similar so I'd like to check what Ohms or V readings I should be getting on the various wires/pins It seems that the colour-coding for the wires going to pins 2, 4 & 6 is consistent regardless of age or make (Ford or Jaguar) and these are the ones for the sensor-circuit. Using a variety of resources I've found that: - #2 (brown/blue) is the sensor-ground
- #4 yellow/blue is the sensor-supply
- #6 white/blue is output
On various YouTube videos I've seen they probe about in the back of the plug looking for a 5V 'reference' wire and it seems to be the middle one so, on mine that would be the #4 yellow/blue 'sensor-supply', which seems to make sense. I've no idea what you'd expect to find on the other two. Does 'output' (#6 white/blue) perhaps mean this wire feeds voltage to the wire(s) which go to the motor in the EGR? Reason I ask that is that seems to be no connection with #1 pin and the motor-terminal on that side of the EGR when checked with Ohmmeter getting this code on my OBDII reader when EML shows on dashEGR opened for inspection/cleaningthese terminals go to tabs on the EGR motor and (appear to) lead to pins #1 & #5 on EGR socketpins in EGR sockets. L-R (top rows) are #6, #4, #2 & (bottom rows) are #5, #1EGR plug from my car (56 plate 2.2)wiring for EGR from Jaguar manual with corrections to wire-colours for #5 & #1 meaning of the symbols in the EGR schematicEGR wiring appears to lead to this connection to PCM. thinking of separating this connector to take continuity readings on the 5 wiresI also took resistance readings from the EGR-socket pins (with EGR on bench) and am not sure what they tell me. - pins #2 #4 #6 all connected to each other (showed continuity) with slightly different Ohms values
- pin #5 showed zero resistance when connected to the terminal that goes on the motor on same side
- pin #1 showed no continuity with the motor-terminal
- pins #1 & #5 showed no continuity with #2,#4,#6
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Last Edit: Jan 27, 2024 23:02:46 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Last Edit: Jan 12, 2024 2:15:21 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Bit of a cheek to call this an update but I did look at the VDP last night and was struck by how much more rust-free it is than the car I use every day! Why was i looking at it? Well I'm trying to get my Mondeo thru an MOT (working outside in the rain and cold) so I can earn some money again and needed a good pair of axle-stands to do some work at the back. The stands just happen to have been holding the front of the VDP up, since I rolled the engine out from underneath of it about 3 years ago, so I needed to get them out. In my lock-up I have some really tall stands that I have never used and these would actually be ideal for the VDP if I ever roll the engine etc back under it. When I pulled the engine out the clearance under the front crossmember/radiator-support was very tight and that was with the heads off. The extra inches on these stands should allow me to get it back under. needed these stands from under the VDP wanted to swap them for these taller ones improvisation with wood to get the extra lift tall stands in place shorter stand now under the daily
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Dec 27, 2023 23:40:21 GMT
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The thing that's worrying me is type-approval IVA or whatever it's currently called
Might need to weld the chassis number from the estate in to keep things simple(r)
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Dec 22, 2023 20:25:00 GMT
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Thanks dodgeroverI got a set of the Clarke ones I was talking about and had a very quick practice on a spare swing-arm I have (smaller diameter tube than headstock so not going to look the same) and am quite pleased with the similarity of the font. It's only really the letter C in my number that is not visible. You can actually see it in pics but not looking at it. The S is also very faint.
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Dec 17, 2023 16:36:34 GMT
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True but often when things cool down again the seal is broken. Can only try
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Dec 17, 2023 13:01:42 GMT
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I've taken apart a few and have held them by the alu compressorhousing with the exhaust side pointing down. I then hit on the edges of the exhaust housing, taking care to hit evenly around on thicker parts and not near the screw holes. You need the hard impact to 'scare' it loose. Prying never worked for me. But it it's just for cleaning purposes you might want to fill it up with oven-cleaner (or is it called Furness cleanerš¤)? Thanks for the advice but yeah I was thinking if I can't separate it may just need to clean it 'blind'. A lot of people advocate using oven-cleaner squirted thru a hole drilled in the opposite end of the manifold but I can't see how this is satisfactory as you aren't going to be able to directly clean the moving parts which are on the opposite side of your nozzle. I Have seen 2nd-hand units for sale at less than Ā£100 so if worst comes to worst and I damage the manifold can always buy a used one. Think I'll have a last try with heat. Will remove the actuator unit and put the thing on a hotplate for an hour or so. I used this method to get seized studs out of a Jaguar V12 block and a Hillman Imp cylinder-head hotplate is a good source of steady heat
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Dec 17, 2023 12:49:03 GMT
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You haven't clamped or bolted it to anything? correct. you want to knock the manifold off the turbo not knock the turbo out of the manifold so there's nothing to be gained from bolting the manifold down
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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I'd call your broker/insurance co and ask the question. booooo rubbish response But seriously... my brother had a nice older Mazda 6 that was valuable to him. He went to an in-law's funeral and some old bint drove into the back of him near the church seemed to me there was some light damage to the rear end (tailgate and bumper ?) but a week or two later the car was assessed and written-off Not the end of the world (so to speak) but what if t was a classic car you'd spent 5 years restoring? Written off forever due to a bit damage on the boot
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Dec 16, 2023 16:21:20 GMT
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So the repairs continue - as I'm still having no luck opening the turbo I keep saying it but I am getting there with the board repairs. Last night I went back to board #3 of the tailgate, which am sure will be the board with the most repairs done. It has already had 2 new bits put in but at the bottom edge was missing the outer parts of the groove on both faces. A long bit on the outer face and a shorter bit on the inner. So it was just a case of routering out the rot again (on both sides) then gluing in 2 thin strips of wood. I could have cut out the full thickness of the board but found doing this previously you don't get such a neat line as you do with the router bit. Also didn't spend ages planing down a thick piece of wood to make thin repair pieces. Instead I sawed a bit of wood lengthwise to make two thinner bits. Was using the 14.1mp camera again and it was working fine with a charged battery in it but still getting rubbish close-up pics. I had a look at the instruction manual online (Sony Cybershot DSC-W370) and couldn't find any reference to Macro Shooting. On all my other cameras there is a button for macro (looks like a flower) and the cameras usually self-macro if you go up close to the subject. The flower icon appears in the LCD automatically. Think I'll need to revert back to the other camera and use this one for my work - where I don't need macro. I also got the long repair from previous post planed down last night (outer face, top edge of board #2 from front panel). It's looking good and just needs a little routering to make the groove correct width and add the chamfer on its edge turbo still not separating from manifold despite introduction of heatdealing with this bit now. also similar on other side but shorter length work needed on lower edge of outer face and same on inner face inner face after routering and same on outer face thin repair pieces made by sawing a bit of wood down middle rather than using plane outer repair glued and clamped and inner repair to board #2 from front panel planed level
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Last Edit: Dec 16, 2023 16:24:03 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Dec 16, 2023 14:54:08 GMT
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Hi folks I finally took the plunge and removed my turbo (to clean the vanes) from my Mk3 Mondeo 2.2 Was easier than I expected and thought the next stage would be easy..... remove the 6 bolts and heavy washers that screw into the manifold housing and lift out the turbo Not so. The 2 parts won't separate despite loads of penetrant, lots of hammering and levering plus the addition of heat (propane torch). I really don't know what to try next other than a few more weeks of the same. One of the issues is that you can't really hammer the turbo away from the manifold and there's not a lot to hammer on plus you'll end up damaging the alloy I'm also puzzled as to why I've never seen this mentioned despite lots of stuff online about removing the turbo c/w manifold from car and occasionally removing the turbo while leaving the manifold on the car Garrett turbo c/w manifold on bench propane introducing some heat smoke and WD40 using bar to hammer/lever on turbo assy and edge of manifold
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Dec 14, 2023 21:22:34 GMT
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So I've had the work on the trailer interrupted a little as the tax & MOT are out on my car and on Saturday (4 days ago) I started dealing with several things I have needed to do to it. As it was in bits and waiting on a part coming I ended up pulling the turbo out on Tuesday night, to clean it. Been wanting to do this for over 2 years but thought it would be one of those jobs that could go badly wrong so kept putting it off. It took around 7 hours to get it out but that was outside in the dark and rain and I think that slowed me down. Anyway. The point of it is I returned to work on it last night and couldn't get the 2 halves of the turbo apart and having walked over an hour to get there I had to do something to make the journey worth it so turned back to the trailer-boards. I finished planing & routering the last 2 repairs including putting a chamfer on the edges of all the boards which have had new 'groove' parts put in. Doesn't seem to be as many on the 'tongue' edges. Once that was done I had to pick the next bit to tackle and plumped for one of the boards from the front panel. The top outer edge of board #2. This is a tongue edge and it doesn't strictly need fixed as the tongue is still there and strong but for some reason the shoulder (?) below it was all missing but no signs of rot. It just looked bad. I'm getting used to these repairs now so just cut out enough with a wide router bit down part of the thickness of the board and glued/clamped new piece in. As the bit going in didn't need to be thick I spent most of the night planing it down to just thicker than it needs to be. I didn't have a new bottle of glue so cut the old one open to find enough. and more, to do this repair. Once it's dried it will be easy to router down as I'm not actually recreating a tongue or groove. Despite having two good cameras with me I didn't get many (any?) good pics last night. I'd forgotten the memory card for the 12.1mp camera that I've been using last couple of weeks and had actually taken my best 14.1 camera down which I've not really used yet so turned to that and it didn't go well at all. The battery was low and all sorts of weird things were happening and I couldn't find a macro function on it (all my other cameras have had that) but had to persevere as the memory card in it doesn't fit in the other one. And the batteries don't swap. trailer repairs interrupted bu removal of turbo from my dailyrepair needed heretop (tongue) edge of board is sound but a large part of shoulder seems to have split offdamaged/worn part of board cut out and loaded with glue need to get more glueshavings from creating a thin repair piece which is now glued/clamped in
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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