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Jul 27, 2010 18:13:11 GMT
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Jul 24, 2010 22:05:37 GMT
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i Think there was a place near daventry, might have been custom cages, but a friend (quite a few years ago) made a 15mm copper pipe template then put lagging on it to get to 1.1.2" (or the size you want) and took it to said place who copied it in CDS.
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Jul 19, 2010 21:56:44 GMT
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^^ Agree, got a 4-post which takes up far too much room, if i had my chance again 2-post would be the way to go. That said the 4-post is still much better than lying on your back
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I did laugh at Clarkson in the Aston, with his white top and the white car interior, i just couldn't help but think he looked like Jimmy Saville!
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Think if you have proof that it was done years (like 15 or so) ago then you should be exempt from any tests, not sure when rules came in but late 90's i think - if you can proove it's before then you should be ok.
speak to the chaps at Ace advise
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if it's am imp floor try wd40 to get the tar softened, or paraffin, then use thinners or panel wipe to get the oily residue off, wipe clean using loads of paper towel or rags
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Jun 29, 2010 21:40:06 GMT
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there is a load on info on this site www.britishbiker.co.uk/ see pages listed in left hand column basically 3/4-16UNF is not anywhere near 3/4BSP which is 14 tpi, if it's a taper thread it will be designated BSPT an the angle of thread is 1 in 16 on all taper threads, there are pics within that above link. basically most of the oil filters i've seen have been 3/4 unf, and easy way to check would be use a vernier (or 3/4" or 19mm spanner) and measure over the peaks of the thread, this should be 3/4" or very close.
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Jun 21, 2010 22:38:11 GMT
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i adapted a similar starter motor (though mine was from a toyota MR2) to fit a hillman imp, basically most seem to be done in the same way, remove the end casing from the motor and turn the lugs from it with a lathe, then make a plate to suit your engine and get the correct mesh on the flywheel, then secure through with the two bolts and sandwich the casing
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Jun 16, 2010 10:45:33 GMT
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you could have the spacer 25mm thick at the outside but only say 8mm thick around the liners to allow water circulation,
also the imp liners are about 2 thou clearance on the spigot in the block, then locktite'd in place, not sure which number loctite (i can probably find out), but to get them out you have to heat the block to break the bond then use a 20 ton press. if memory serves the renault 5 similarly the peugeot engine (the one with the pistons pointing at your feet) were wet liners and sealed to the block at the base with an O-ring. not sure what they use on the K-Series but what i'm getting at is i'd avoid trying to make them a interference fit, probably leak water to oil when it heats up
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Jun 15, 2010 21:57:56 GMT
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perfectly possible, I've a long stroke imp motor done like this, be worth checking the block has enough clearance in the crank case for the big-ends of the rods before you go too far with getting bits made. fit the crank and make a dummy wooden piston if need be to check
ideally the spacer would support the top of the liners, but may not be totally necessary. you can cut out with jigsaws/holesaws etc and if concerned a technique i've seen for support is to dummy build the whole engine then drill holes through the side of the spacer (perpendicular to bore), hoe extends just into the liners, then drill and tap and fit grub-screws with loctite, these support liner, not sure on how this may work in your application, may be problems with different thermal expansions (could force liner out of round?)
you may also consider doweling the spacer to the block to stop it shuffling between the two gaskits.
you'll need to make a paper gaskit to seal the spacer to the water-way and calculate the thickness into your stack up.
get the spacer machined slightly thicker than you need then leave it that size, might not be so bad with 25mm thick, but the imp one was 6mm thick and easier to do final maching of the block/liners to achieve correct deck heights than risk spacer being unequal in thicknesss (flexible to machine) and also difficult to clamp.
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Jun 12, 2010 13:20:54 GMT
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look for about 3HP and about 14cfm (cubic feet per minute) of air flow, this is getting close to the limit on a domestic supply, most air tools want in the region of 10 cfm and a 14cfm compressor will give about this once the receiver is depleted. a tank (receiver) size of 50 litres is good if limited by space, go bigger if you can afford it. don't be swayed by smaller output machines with big tanks, no point really because once the tank is empty you're relying on what the compressor can deliver (free air displacement) something like this is a good starting point for DIY, www.sipuk.co.uk/tools/info_SIP06242.htmlbut if you want to spend more look into belt drive stuff as they ultimatly have a longer life, more suited to trade/industrial use.
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no, it's about being different - the very reason were all on here and not driving 10 year old bland-wagons because to some the purpose of a car is just to get from A to B :-)
I like it a lot, not read the article yet, but it looks great
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i'd perhaps try tamworth mobile windscreens - you may be slighly out of their area, but they get screens made etc and are independant.
If you book it in you should be able to drive to and from the place of repair as part of the MOT repair, which will save you a few £££ when negotiating price.
alternatively once you have a screen from a scrapper, get a local (independant) installer to fit - i wouldn't fancy the hassle of buying all the materials to fit a one-off bonded in jobbie.
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Cutting a wedge out works well, I did an Imp inlet manifold like this, (45degree tapering bends). A couple of tips, a jubilee clip can pull thin walled tube back together well and it stays fairly round, plus if you put a socket inside the tube when you pull it together it helps keep it's shape even better. A friend also did something similar, but went to the bother of making a Jig, basically a piece of angle iron with the desired wedge chopped along the ridge, clamp it to the tube (jubilee again) then use a thin cutting disk in a grinder or hacksaw the wedge out. Anyway have a few pics:
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May 31, 2010 18:29:32 GMT
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If it's easy to get off the car then put gaffer-tape or cling film over the outlet and turn the pulley, if the unit has good internal clearances then the tape/film will balloon under the pressure when turned the correct way, or when turned the wtong way it will be pulled into a dish.
or if you can find a pic (on the net) of how it is normally fitted then follow the belt run and see how jag did it.
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have you re-wired the ignition switch? if so could be the ECU/ignition feed is off the auxillary connection rather than the ignition connection. most ignition switches kill the power to the aux terminal during cranking.
a quick work round might be a starter button to fire the starter leaving the ignition swith in the position where you're currently getting a spark.
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Apr 16, 2010 21:39:42 GMT
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Cheers Guys,
does anyone still do similar bodies or was it purely a one off film prop? I'd love something that looked like this, real ones cost a fortune and i kind of like the thought of modern running gear without the BIVA issues, so single donor...
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Apr 16, 2010 21:31:04 GMT
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Apr 15, 2010 22:52:28 GMT
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This is way cool, anyone know the build details for it , and why it's on a 80's plate? I'm guessing it's based on a modern, or a single donor, is it an original body or reproduction?
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Apr 15, 2010 22:07:57 GMT
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This used to be owned by Tom Hammond (of Hammond interiors - Hinckley), i was lucky enough to see it in action back in the late 90's on a sprint at the MIRA prooving ground. If memory serves that had anti-lag/ huge chattering wastegate and abot 700bhp. What an awesome car with such pedigree/history and though sadly i doubt it'll be use in anger again.
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