Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,715
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Feb 20, 2011 14:56:25 GMT
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well, ive currently got a p5b/p6 water pump, and the alternator and shorter/smaller bracket, so I'm halfway there.
what i need is the flat pulley for the water pump (ive only got the SD1 dished one) and the corresponding single bottom pulley- its the one with the pulley groove cut into the counterwight/balancer, not a pressed bolted on one. i do have a terrible pic taken in the dark of what is the right one but its hard to make out unless you know what youre looking at!
for the moment, I'm hoping the current bw65 will fit with minor tickling- ive just not had time to progress any futher with it yet and find out!
the other thing i also need is a p6 dizzy, so i can do away with the 'electronic ignition' pickup that runs off the crank pulley, as the new(older) one wont have the peg to time it- unless anyone knows if i can just gut the SD1 one and use a lumention in it, as i have a kit kicking round somehere? in my head it should work, but i don't know if the parts are compatable cos i cant remember what engine/dizzy i took the lumention off- possibly early R-R. what troubles me is i cant quite figure out why they would go to the extra effort and complexity to make the ignition spark crank timed when the dizzy is still shaft driven to distribute it to the HT leads. mind you, british leyland and rational decisions where never two things that really went hand in hand, lol!
ive got kev out on the case in a scrappy local to him, but if youve got them to hand that would be great. thanks!!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Feb 20, 2011 15:46:31 GMT
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The sd1 and p6 dizzy's are not a direct swap, due to a different oil pump shaft drive, although you could probably fit an sd1 or later drive to a p6 dizzy. I thought all rv8 electronic distributers had the mechanism built within the distributer, with no crankshaft trigger, just an amplifier to send the signal to the coil? They only gained a crankshaft sensor when they went over to coilpacks. Otherwise, cool looking car , well done!
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Feb 20, 2011 15:58:44 GMT
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a little more progress has been made, so I thought id ramble on about it a bit more! first up, deliveries from americaland. see what I mean about spider cap look without being spider caps? it might not look like much, but by the time id bought that lot and half a dozen rattle cans for the wheels, ive got pretty much no change from £100. who says steel wheels are the cheap option?! but, I was so happy with it all I bought a celebratory sticker. hurrah! oh, and if anyone wants any of the bullet nuts, I'm going to be stocking them soon, in both metric and imperial sizes. aaaaahhhhh will look good!!!!! you bought some of the metalflake rattle cans from the states then
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Feb 20, 2011 20:45:34 GMT
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Dez, the crankshaft sensor is ONLY connected to the screw-capped diagnostics port, for connecting a Crypton-type tuner. It isn't needed to run the engine.
The electronic ingition is fully contained within the dizzy - pickup, amplifier, the lot. The only bit missing from that engine's ignition, AFAIK, is the ballast resistor (DRC1638 from Rimmers, £25inc VAT - although 10mpg may have one. Fitted to all carbed SD1 V8s from 76-85).
However, it might be worth tracking down a V8 SD1 Haynes book to check that the wiring is correct - the electronic ignition module for that Opus dizzy costs £300...
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10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,253
Club RR Member Number: 204
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Pretty sure i have several water pump pulleys, I'll dig one out for you..
Bin the 'opless opus' dizzy they are foul and hatefull things, i can probably find you a P5 single points one, or a better later DLM8 'leccy one..
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The Internet, like all tools, if used improperly, can make a complete bo**cks of even the simplest jobs...
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this is my new ride. its purchase was slightly unnecessary bearing in mind my current fleet(which I'm supposed to be cutting down ), but I seem to have a thing about starting the year with a new car as ive bought one in january for the last 5 years. plus, being slightly fed up of my never ending projects, I decided I needed something 'on the road' that was still cool enough to keep me happy. it didnt have to be that practical, fast, economical or modern as ive got the escort van to fall back on for load lugging or driving to the moon and back for 50p, I was basically after a cool weekend car for me, the girlfriend and the dog to cruise around in, that looked halfway respectable. I looked at a few possibilities before deciding I wanted a 'proper' classic car again as I havent had anothing like that for a while, only 'retros', albeit I wanted it with a bit of a twist. most importantly it had to be taxed, tested, not need much work, be able to go anywhere without worrying about it breaking too much, but still be unusual and cool. and I wasnt allowed to tear it apart and turn it into a major project like I seem to have a habit of doing with most cars!! id have loved another yank tank, but that wasnt going to happen in my £1500 budget. but what I did find was a 1967 vauxhall victor saloon. the 'FC' body shape, sold as having '101 improvements over the older FB shape, was made from 64-67 and obviously borrowed very heavily from american styling of the period hardly unsurprising for a 60s british GM product. walking round it you can see elements of '62 and '64 impala, and early sixties lincoln continentals, so it was ideal for what I had planned....... which was what exactly? well to put it simply, mild custom, '60s style. I know this car.....it belonged to an old mate of mine, now sadly deceased, who bought it in 1968 and had the car till probably mid '90,s. The original colour was Storm Grey. Good luck with it, nice to see its still around. I will watch this thread with interest.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,715
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Feb 21, 2011 12:09:34 GMT
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The sd1 and p6 dizzy's are not a direct swap, due to a different oil pump shaft drive, although you could probably fit an sd1 or later drive to a p6 dizzy. I thought all rv8 electronic distributers had the mechanism built within the distributer, with no crankshaft trigger, just an amplifier to send the signal to the coil? They only gained a crankshaft sensor when they went over to coilpacks. Otherwise, cool looking car , well done! thanks for the heads up on the drive, something to note. i really don't know about this dizzy- for all the rover v8s ive owned and worked on over the years, theyve all either been fitted with early points-type dizzys, or aftermarket stuff like mallory dual points. i have a haynes for 76-79 SD1, but its as usual very vague about the bits you need to know, and the wiring diagram is totally useless, it doesnt even show the crank sensor!! aaaaahhhhh will look good!!!!! I'm hoping so!! and nah, i havent been buying those, but i have bought something. its a cheap trick that i hope will work, more once ive tried it Dez, the crankshaft sensor is ONLY connected to the screw-capped diagnostics port, for connecting a Crypton-type tuner. It isn't needed to run the engine. The electronic ignition is fully contained within the dizzy - pickup, amplifier, the lot. The only bit missing from that engine's ignition, AFAIK, is the ballast resistor (DRC1638 from Rimmers, £25inc VAT - although 10mpg may have one. Fitted to all carbed SD1 V8s from 76-85). However, it might be worth tracking down a V8 SD1 Haynes book to check that the wiring is correct - the electronic ignition module for that Opus dizzy costs £300... I'm hoping what you say is right james- as mentioned above ive got a haynes, and it makes no mention of any of it, only removing the 'transducer' it calls it to get to the timing cover. it does look as through its wired through the screw cap port thing, i think this needs further investigation to see if i can ditch the whole lot and just have a normal ign. without the port or the 'transducer'. but i don't want to get it wrong and blow the dizzy up! although if i do i guess i can just go to a points type one Pretty sure I have several water pump pulleys, I'll dig one out for you.. Bin the 'opless opus' dizzy they are foul and hatefull things, I can probably find you a P5 single points one, or a better later DLM8 'leccy one.. that would be great, thanks. ile take a dizzy if youve got one too, either type as i can fit the lumention to an earlier one (if the drives can be swapped which I'm sure ive read they can be) i know these dizzys have a serious reputation for being unreliable, probably why every rv8 ive ever seen had has a replacement of some sort on it!!
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,715
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Feb 21, 2011 12:14:09 GMT
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I know this car.....it belonged to an old mate of mine, now sadly deceased, who bought it in 1968 and had the car till probably mid '90,s. The original colour was Storm Grey. Good luck with it, nice to see its still around. I will watch this thread with interest. small world!! youre correct, originally a nice dark browny grey. whatever possessed anyone to go mad with the baby blue god only knows! I'm guessing your mate looked after it quite well- the fact its still around at all must be testament to that, as most are long gone by now. its not fared too well since he died though i think, its had a few things done and done right(like the sills replaced) but it is showing signs of recent neglect in other departments- do you have any more history on it as i got pretty much nothing with it?
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,715
Club RR Member Number: 34
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I had what could be described as a 'meh' evening on this tonight. I put all the effort in, but the result just wasnt there. first I decided to do another banded- if I keep chipping away at them around other things, they should be done before I know it. thing was, the wheel I started with wasnt particularly round, so the wheel I ended up with was, erm, even less round. I just left it half done in the end before I made a total mess of it. wish id not even tried with it to be honest, but I didnt really have any other choice as I only have 5 wheels. ile go back to it another time to see if its salvagable. its got about 1-1.5mm of weave, which is bearderline acceptable, but a good 2mm of bob that i cant do anything about. if not I'm going to have to try to find some more victor FB/FC rims. thall be easy I'm sure....... so instead I set up the indexer on the drill to redrill the rear hubs (and drums) from 4x4.5" to 4x4". that went ok really, I got one all marked out and pilot holes drilled out to 10mm (the actual size will be 7/16" or a bit bigger depending on if the studs ive not taken out of the other axle yet have a shank or not) before it f-ked up the drill bit as the hubs are so hard. I could feel the veins of harder steel in it as I was drilling through. so thats not a total loss, ive just gotta get the studs out of the other axle tomorrow and drill to the final size. its just not been very productive for a whole evenings work
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Last Edit: Feb 22, 2011 1:47:51 GMT by Dez
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gibzy
Part of things
Posts: 19
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Sorry to hear it. if not I'm going to have to try to find some more victor FB/FC rims. thall be easy I'm sure....... If there's anything I can do to help with that I'll let you know. Please don't get disheartened. I need this thread if things progress my way.
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Novice in the temple of low_ness
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Feb 23, 2011 10:13:38 GMT
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That happens Dez, I have that day every day! I'm now keeping eyes out on this side of the water for FB/FC Victor rims for you just in case.
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Club Retro Rides Member
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,715
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Feb 24, 2011 21:03:18 GMT
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well. a little update after the annoyances of the other day. i was very curse word off with myself about doing that other wheel, so much so i couldnt sleep that night. anyone else ever get like that? its a bit silly really. but, i gave it a couple of days, then finished it off today. mazing how a break from it can see you back at it with a calm head and things then go ok. its now got no weave and 1.5mm bob, so considering how it was before, I'm happy with that. welded, cleaned up, and sealed- you can see this one has some pitting too ive got to sort before paint. but i now have a pair of wheels for the back end, one job down!
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kevfromwales
Posted a lot
the conrod's REALLY out the block now!
Posts: 3,909
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Feb 24, 2011 21:06:52 GMT
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dez if you do borrox any wheels, find out if HA viva 13" steels are the same, as we have a pair of them somewhere
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Almost on the road: b11 sunny breadvan, e36 tds, 325i skidcar,
nearly there: ford f250 tathauler, suzuki alto, u11 bluey
not for a while: ford pop, 32 rails,
not in this lifetime: ruby, '29 hillman
''unfortanatly I'm quite old and scruffy and in need of some loving. my drive shaft needs a new boot....''
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,715
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Feb 24, 2011 21:29:51 GMT
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they may well be kev. they're stamped in the rim well 'mowog 4x13'. if you can show me a pic i can tell you if they're the same.
how did today go btw?
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,715
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Feb 24, 2011 21:35:30 GMT
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and heres my only other progress so far- that end of the axle now sports a stud pattern of 4x4" instead of 4x4.5" i now need studs that are 3/4" longer though as the drum and hub flanges are so much thicker so the 7/16" victor ones are too short, but the scimmy ones are 1/2" so i cant use those, or my mega spangly bullet nuts wont fit. notice i say 'that end'. the other end isnt done as someone who obvoiously didnt own a hub puller has seen fit to remove the drum on the past by hitting it with a very big hammer. as they're so tight on the taper, theyve managed to bend the flange, so, its only fit for the bin. plus youd have though theyd have taken a minute or two to check the condition of the drum before theyve spent so much time lovingly cleaning and painting it, as it isnt round. so I'm currenty waiting for a PM back about sourcing some replacements. 2 steps forward, one step back!!
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kevfromwales
Posted a lot
the conrod's REALLY out the block now!
Posts: 3,909
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Feb 24, 2011 21:43:15 GMT
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not well - ryan's inlet manifold was held on with torx, and the car was on it's side which didn't help and your bottom pulley was 'reluctant' so rather than break anything I'll pop back with my BIG bar and get it off in time for essex the sun was shining on the way back though - had one of those nice aimless drives home
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Almost on the road: b11 sunny breadvan, e36 tds, 325i skidcar,
nearly there: ford f250 tathauler, suzuki alto, u11 bluey
not for a while: ford pop, 32 rails,
not in this lifetime: ruby, '29 hillman
''unfortanatly I'm quite old and scruffy and in need of some loving. my drive shaft needs a new boot....''
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they're stamped in the rim well 'mowog 4x13'. In which case, they are BMC rims. A30, A35, A40 Farina & Spridget were all 13" in varying widths, with a 4x4"pcd.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,715
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Feb 25, 2011 23:48:34 GMT
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not well - ryan's inlet manifold was held on with torx, and the car was on it's side which didn't help and your bottom pulley was 'reluctant' so rather than break anything I'll pop back with my BIG bar and get it off in time for essex the sun was shining on the way back though - had one of those nice aimless drives home i thought all drives were like that when you had a truck like yours? ;D
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,715
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Feb 25, 2011 23:50:53 GMT
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they're stamped in the rim well 'mowog 4x13'. In which case, they are BMC rims. A30, A35, A40 Farina & Spridget were all 13" in varying widths, with a 4x4"pcd. afaik paul, they're stock. they may well same the same as BMC, after all they both get a third party to manufacture them, but they're the stock size with stock caps and trimrings, and look identical to the rims on all other FCs ive seen. it will be bloody handy if they are the same though!!
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gibzy
Part of things
Posts: 19
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Feb 27, 2011 20:50:33 GMT
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Last Edit: Feb 27, 2011 22:18:15 GMT by gibzy
Novice in the temple of low_ness
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