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Sept 17, 2009 21:10:11 GMT
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While cutting the front spring on the Volvo, the spring cut disintegrated. Leaving this......   I have two options either.....  ....or this....  The strut is seperate from the damper which is just an insert (like a Capri or mk1/2 Escort) I would rather convert the strut to uses either 2.25 or 2.5 inch coil springs. I was wondering if anyone have attempted a similar conversion? I've seen several kits on Compsport, Rally Design and Burton Power. It seems that my struts are a little too big to support the 2.25" kits as these have an internal diameter of 50.2mm to 50.8mm. The 2.5" kits have an internal diameter of 54.2mm My strut has an external diameter of 52mm, SO I was thinking what would be the best way to do it? Would it be better to get the strut lmachined down so that the 2.25" kits would be a tight fit and get it welded? or get the larger kit welded to the strut? Also how do I work out what lb. spring I need to fit and which length of spring to use? Anyone with practical experience to advice? Thanks Robin |
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Sierra - here we go again! He has an illness, it's not his fault.
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,521
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Sept 17, 2009 21:19:18 GMT
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I wouldn't machine the strut down as you'd be thinning the wall. If yours are 52mm OD and the larger kit is 54.4 then I would add some bands of 1 - 1.2mm steel wrapped tightly around your strut to take up the difference and give a nice fit. For the spring rate and length you need to have an idea of the weight applied to the strut (weight distribution of car etc), the factory spring rate and what ride height you are after. Length is obviously also dependent on where you weld the tube. Educated guesstimates can work fine.  |
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable. |
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rob0r
East of England
Posts: 2,743
Club RR Member Number: 104
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Sept 17, 2009 21:23:39 GMT
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I cheated with mine and got an engineer to weld the sleeves on, but that was also because he cut about an inch out of the struts at the same time. retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=readersrides&action=display&thread=36272&page=9The E21 strut diameter is slightly too big for the coilover sleeves but I was able to gently shave the struts down with an angle grinder until they were snug fit. Mine was a rally design kit. Adam did a really good write up when he did his polo struts and was a good read before doing mine  |
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E30 320i 3.5 - E23 730 - E3 3.0si - E21 316 M42 - E32 750i
ETC
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BiAS
Club Retro Rides Member
Insert witty comment here
Posts: 2,231
Club RR Member Number: 147
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Sept 17, 2009 21:37:42 GMT
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I'd go for the adjustable sleeves in the bigger size personally and like Seth says pack it and weld it. Wondered what kind of fail could occur whilst cutting the springs, certainly didn't expect that!
Glad it disintegrated then rather than halfway round a roundabout eh?
Let me know if you want em buzzing on.
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(car+wheels)-rideheight=WIN
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Sept 17, 2009 21:54:30 GMT
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Let me know if you want em buzzing on. Thanks, I'll probably take you up on that. |
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Sierra - here we go again! He has an illness, it's not his fault.
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Sept 18, 2009 7:31:44 GMT
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hey Robin, where did you find the 2.5" coilover sleeves? I've been half looking for some my BM 52mm struts. any chance of a link? I'd use the spacing idea. I was gonna try and get a blank Xmm spacer machined but sheet steel bands sound like the way to go. also I couldn't find any sleeves... |
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The Doctor
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,434
Club RR Member Number: 48
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Sept 18, 2009 13:18:49 GMT
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the coiloverkit which is made for Toyota's by Techno Toy Tuning in the US works with a weld on perch, on which the coiloversleeve sits, secured by a few allenbolts (and maybe the top nut of the shock.). I chose for the steel rallydesign setup though, it was cheaper and fitted too. And i don't mind having steelcoloured parts, instead of expensive anodized stuff  something like this:  |
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Sept 18, 2009 18:12:37 GMT
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Sierra - here we go again! He has an illness, it's not his fault.
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Sept 18, 2009 22:24:17 GMT
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I've got a feeling it's been done or is in the process of being done on V3M (possibly username 340Glt), but i've been away for a week so you may have already posted there without me seeing it |
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OAP drifta Volvo 340,Williams power
1960 Beetle twin 40's 1776cc
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,197
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Sept 19, 2009 11:09:43 GMT
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Only thing I need to ask is what about the stuff inside the damper and it taking on heat etc.
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Sept 19, 2009 12:02:42 GMT
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If you are lucky the struts are insert type (they probably are).. there will be a threaded collar at the base of the damper rod. Undo this, remove the insert, empty the oil out and weld to the case. Sometimes you find a gas type insert and no oil, but it's still the same job. If you are unlucky, the whole shock is a gas type.. this will have a closed, domed cap, and is usually clearly marked "DO NOT DISMANTLE OR WELD" PS, I just read the bit in the OP where you say it is an insert type ;D looks like you will be fine |
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
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Sept 19, 2009 18:19:35 GMT
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i'd 'wrap' a section of 20swg/1mm around the strut casing & tack [& grind] in place to take your outer diameter up to 54mm then use the larger one's as said robin - i'd feel much happier/safer with the coilover sleeve a tight fit around the struts over their full length.
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Last Edit: Sept 19, 2009 18:20:20 GMT by Ratters
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Sept 19, 2009 19:59:44 GMT
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I've got Rally Design ones on mine. They were a bit of a snug fit but after I ground the paint off they fitted fine.
I didn't weld mine because it was before I could weld, but I was there when the guy did it. Oil filled struts on mine. Initially we left it assembled with the oil in there and he carefully welded in short stitches so as not to get too much heat in to it, but he blew through and it all came squirting out. It depends how careful you are; I could probably do it without blowing through but I've had quite a lot of welding experience.
Re grinding the strut tube down to fit. I can't see a problem if you grind it down to the line where the threaded tube it going to be welded on. You'll have a slight step which will locate the coilover tube and you will weld into the bit where the thickness changes back to full thickness. I'd get the verniers out and give it all a measure because once the paint is off I bet you only have to give it a slight shave. I seem to remember the problem area on mine was the seam inside the coilover tube and I had to run a pretty harsh grind down the length of the strut to clear it. Other than that, once it's welded on, the coilover tube will be taking the strain.
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