Vinegar rust removal

someone posted youtube vids a while back.
seemed to work well, as i recall.

Looks like theres loads of chemicals you could use.

I wonder if it will penetrate into rusted on nuts etc.

Ill try this tomorrow i think.

Ive heard cheap 'Tesco Value' vinegar does not work which has put me off trying slightly!

Maybe it just needs to be left longer?

As i say though, thjeres lots of other chemicals which are also cheaper, just nastier too.

Aparantly caustic soda also works and thats well cheap.

ye, I have done the voinegar thing. I tested it in a plastic jar and a few rusty nuts n bolts and bits of steel. I left them maybe 48 hours and once removed a given a ligh rub over, the rust came away very easilly. Seems to take a fair bit of time on heier rust though - but then, I'm using cheapy supermarket vinegar, maybe thats why?

As above, I will be trying the electrolosys method next, Looks like it could be significantly better.

Iv just started using the electric way to remove the rust and it saves a lot of work. This is a panel of the front of my colt, I still had to go over it with a wire brush, As where the rust was it turns into a black type dust that needs cleaning off.

Before




After



Thats just after I had tacked in a repair patch but you can see how the metal has been cleaned up

This stuff : www.wickes.co.uk/Cement-Additives/Brick-and-Mortar-Cleaner/invt/153779? Interesting - could be worth a go!

Anyone know how long the vinegar stays useable for? I assume it loses effectiveness the more rusty parts you use it for? I guess it sort of dilutes it or uses up the acid somehow?

vinegar wont loose its effectiveness as such, I don't think, but the liquid becomes pretty cruddy so it needs changed every now and then - depends on the level of rust on the parts I suppose.

About the electrolosys and living in a flat.....some people say to use a stainless steel electrode as it doesnt dissolve as a normal steel one will, but the stainless does disolve microscopically and seemignly gives of a really toxic gas as a byproduct. Best to avoid stainless or do the job in a very well ventilated place.

I tries the electrolysis method out, I used a 4 amp charger and a few spoons of sodium carbonate (sodium cleaning crystals from hardware shop)


I tried it out on an old rusty crank pulley and some brake discs, the more power you use the better, you need a sacrificial piece that absorbs the junk (I'm no scientist) The closer you have the plate to the job the better. It's important you get the polarity the right way round or else the rust will go in the wrong direction! NEGATIVE on the PIECE, and positive on the sacrificial metal.




Before



During



After


It comes out all black, just a quick clean reveals the fresh metal.