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Goldnrust is pretty much spot on. I'm looking this up as well as asking on here. The tooth logger pattern (not the composite logger which shows the VR sensor output after conditioning) is pretty much what would be expected. The wave pattern varies with the compression given a healthy starter. from 5.05 shows exactly the same as I have but the missing tooth pulse is a high single bar as it should be. Mine is half the height and doubled indicating reversed sensor wiring or incorrect leading/trailing edge pulse detection (or both!). The engine turns over really well and has excellent compression. CR is 10.1:1
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-( 2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap V8 Humber Hawk 1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD 1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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May 20, 2023 14:07:20 GMT
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I'll carry on answering my own questions, hopefully it will be of use to others. As the easiest thing to try first was a change of "ignition input capture" I changed it from rising edge to falling edge. That sorted it, I had a single long bar for the missing tooth and the RPM sync tab was green. Now I can get the #1 tooth angle BTDC checked and set. Set the timing to fixed at 10 BTDC and off we go. After some chasing around it was bang on with a setting of 110 degrees. Not what I expected, I had read somewhere that for this engine it was 80 degrees. I also remembered halfway through that the ECU has to be powered down for timing changes to take effect (even though it is burnt to memory) which was the cause of the chasing around. Start up next! It will be a week or so though. Edit. I think the reason my log looks so"up and down" is because I used a 3000ms log instead of the default so there are a lot more cycles in the same length of graph.
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Last Edit: May 20, 2023 14:10:34 GMT by crockpot
Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-( 2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap V8 Humber Hawk 1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD 1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,872
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May 20, 2023 17:07:34 GMT
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Sounds like you’re in the right tracks. This part of the ignition set-up stuff is the bit that seems to cause the most headache for people, so if you can get through this bit (with a bit of logical problem solving + google) then you’ll be fine I take it you’re using the manuals on msextra.com to help by the way? I always found they were the best documentation for megasquirt.
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May 20, 2023 20:45:48 GMT
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Yes I'm using the msextra manuals plus the old forum. It's pretty much dead now but there's lots of information in there.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-( 2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap V8 Humber Hawk 1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD 1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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May 27, 2023 16:02:59 GMT
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Bit of a long term ask for help. Is anyone on here familiar with TunerStudio? I am using Microsquirt and TunerStudio is the tool for setting it up. I'm slowly getting there with it (albeit a near vertical learning curve). I know there will be parts of it I will struggle with so is there anybody on here who could help if I asked eg by PM. Much appreciated. where did you get your microsquirt from? i was using speeduino for my metro but its not working how i want, i will buy microsquirt. thanks
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www.efiextras.co.uk/It's part of Extraefi run by Phil Ringwood. He's been involved with Megasquirt products for years.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-( 2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap V8 Humber Hawk 1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD 1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,872
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What is Speeduino not doing for you?
I have a Speeduino, that I have built and tested but am yet to use in anger in a vehicle. It seems on first impressions to do the majority of that Microsquirt would offer?
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thanks , ill message him and see.
the speeduino. i bought the ua4c one, it looked really good, but ive had endless problems with it. First it comes with connectors on the board, and the terminals, i found them really had to crimp, so after ages trying i bought some ends and soldered on. i don't like doing that but it worked. as its on a k series, a guy on the speeduino facebook page modded the code to read my flywheel pattern. it started up, and ran for maybe 15 seconds then cut out. i couldnt get it to restart, but i knew it worked as it had run. that took ages to reolise it should not have started and i needed a little add on board as i had a ve sensor.
there seems to be no good info about how to do things and people on the facebook pages seem to know everything but not help so much.
also what i didnt reolise is when i uploaded this code into the arduino, i had a preproduction version, so when i was making changes to like the ve table it just crashed. So i worked out how to fix that and then it still didnt work, and it was as i hadnt formatted the arduinos memory with the speedy loader app. Then i had the ecu inside connected to my normal pc, was calibrating temp sensor, put it back on the car and now no crank signal.
today is capethorne hall car show, if i had bought microsquirt my r100 would be there, but as of the speeduino problems, it isnt.
what version of speeduino do you have ? it would make sense to get another one, and microsquirt is really good but its quite dear for what it is i think.
the new release fo the speeduino software will have the mems in it so there will be no problem with the software.
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,872
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May 28, 2023 10:21:12 GMT
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My kit is a 0.4.3c, so I presume similar actual function, but is a ‘solder together yourself’ one, rather than preassembled. I think it’s fair to say that you can have similar problems to those you describe with Megasquirt, as you can see with the issues that crockpot was having that problems surrounding the ignition capture are common, and it’s easy to use the wrong settings (VR sensor vs Hall effect etc). It’s worth remembering that both systems are ‘DIY’ ECU solutions, developed by enthusiasts as a hobby. If you want to make electronics and ECUs building and mapping your hobby also, then they are great. If you want an ECU that will ‘plug and play’ and to just drive the car, then one of the big manufacturers ECUs, Haltech, Link, etc might be a better route! That said, Megasquirt is much more established and there are more resources out there to help. The resources also seem to presume a little less electronics / coding experience than Speeduino does. I think had I dipped my toes into the water of DIY ECUs with Speeduino, rather than Megasquirt, I would have found the learning curve tricker. It reads to me, from your post, that as you’d had it reading the crank signal, but have now lost it, that wiping the Arduino and reinstalling the firmware might be a good place to start. I have found with Megasquirt also many times, if strange things start happening, a fresh flash of firmware, or map, is always a good move. For that reason keeping good backups of old maps and firmwear builds is a good plan!
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May 28, 2023 10:39:41 GMT
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this is the ecu i haveI didnt know the microsquirt was so much now, it was £250 i think when i bought the one for my bmw [has a volvo b230 in it!] When i lost the crank signal i thought it was a bad connection so i tried reflowing bits on the board, and i don't trust it now. I could buy another ua4c, either wait for the official updated software, OR i could fit a 32-1 trigger wheel, and then even if i take the gearbox off the car and go for a different set up, the ecu dosnt need to be changed and itll work with standard software. I understand the diy bit but its just uve had so many problems with it ! Should have bought the prewired plugs, and should have left it in the car not unplugged it often to take it in teh house to change stuff. what i do find strange is that there is no maps i can find anywhere to get you up and running. there are a 4-5 on the speedyloader app, i just thought id be able to download something and get it running.
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May 28, 2023 12:32:54 GMT
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goldnrust the issues I had were not down to software or firmware, it was a humanware problem! The Microsquirt worked perfectly (so far) but my knowledge was non existent.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-( 2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap V8 Humber Hawk 1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD 1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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Aug 12, 2023 16:00:50 GMT
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After a long time doing other stuff and then going through some issues with wifey's Pop I find myself back here. Today I finally put the last of the problems to bed and went for a start. Checked that the fuel pump ran, all good. Ignition on, immobiliser off and dam me if it didn't start first turn of the key!!!!!! However it didn't last long as it was eye wateringly rich and died after 20 seconds or so. Injector pulse width is off the scale and lambda gauge is below 10.
I'm now in uncharted water so any clues would be much appreciated. Is it as simple as reducing the VE table values?
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-( 2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap V8 Humber Hawk 1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD 1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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Aug 12, 2023 17:09:49 GMT
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I've not used microsquirt but most have a base fuelling table which is the adaptive part of tuner studio will modify in learning mode when the engine is warm and some sort of cold start table or multiplier, I would start by looking at the cold start and run enrichment.
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Aug 12, 2023 17:27:40 GMT
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Thanks kevinsI have reduced the cold start and run enrichment right down (to the point I doubt it would start if set up correctly). I've finished for today, I may get a play tomorrow with luck. Good points to take from it, oil pressure is ok, the alternator charges and the engine has no odd noises.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-( 2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap V8 Humber Hawk 1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD 1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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Aug 12, 2023 21:54:32 GMT
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Assuming it’s running a map sensor as primary load, is the sensor connected to the manifold and giving sane readings? If it’s only seeing atmospheric pressure it will massively overfuel except at full throttle.
If using the throttle pot as primary load signal then above doesn’t apply but the throttle pot calibration needs to have been done.
Have you done the “required fuel” setup where you’ve put in the injector flows, engine cc and injector configuration?
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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vitesseefi it does run a MAP sensor. I have yet to a) keep it running long enough to get a reading and b) work out where in TunerStudio I can observe said reading. As I have said, this is a very steep learning curve for me.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-( 2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap V8 Humber Hawk 1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD 1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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You can get a feel for whether things are roughly as they should be without running the engine. You should be able to get live data just with the ignition on (Note. If you have a wideband O2 sensor, I strongly recommend wiring it so it’s only energised when the engine is actually running - mine is piggybacked off the fuel pump relay).
With the ignition on and the “dashboard” selected on Tuner Studio (which you can customise to add what you want to see, though defaults are pretty good) you should be able to see the inlet air temperature readings, which should both reflect actual ambient temperature if the engines not run in 12 hours. You should also see throttle position move from 0-100% when you press it (if not, run the throttle calibration utility). You should also see manifold air pressure at 100KPa - if you disconnect the end from the manifold and apply vacuum (suck on it) you should see it move downwards.
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Thanks vitesseefiI have just sat playing with TunerStudio after breakfast (wifey away so I can!) and found a real time display page in general settings. After reading your reply above I then noticed the kPa gauge on the dashboard which I had somehow missed completely! When connected and online the gauges all work. The TPS is calibrated. I had just thought of applying suction to the MAP sensor when I read your reply. The wideband is wired via the fuel pump relay as per the Microsquirt drawing. I really appreciate your input, thank you.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-( 2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap V8 Humber Hawk 1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD 1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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Aug 13, 2023 12:54:30 GMT
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Welcome. It is a little daunting when you are stood at the bottom of the learning curve, looking up!
Another thing to add is that it’s useful to have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up initially to make sure the fuel pressure regulator is doing its job. Also note that the injector flow rates are given at a specific pressure and if you are not running them at that pressure you need to correct for it.
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Aug 13, 2023 13:37:52 GMT
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The fuel pressure regulator is the original Ford one. That's not to say it's working as it should. I'll look into a pressure gauge to verify it.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-( 2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap V8 Humber Hawk 1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD 1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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