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I’ve had to do quite a lot of plumbing to add in the electric fuel pump for my bike carbs. However, I’ve had some problems with them getting supplied enough fuel when it hasn’t been started for a while.
As a temp measure I’ve got a primer bulb just before the carbs which I can give a squeeze before starting it up. However, it’s not ‘on the button’ like I was expecting, reading around a bit, some places suggest that using too much rubber fuel hose can dampen the effect of an electric fuel pump. I’ve kept the main rigid lines which run the length of the car, but there is probably a good 1.5 meters of rubber fuel hose in total. Any tips? It is a good ideal to make fuel lines as short as possible?
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Last Edit: Feb 19, 2020 9:48:26 GMT by sarkie83
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tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990 
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Feb 19, 2020 11:51:35 GMT
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You could just add a non return valve. I did the same to a mk2 Golf last year, facet solid state pump at the rear, bike carbs up front and it works fine.
If you think the fuel line is a problem, which I don't see how, replace it with semi hard plastic line, or metal. I used motorhome (steel) gas line on my rally car, 8mm bore. Very malleable and easy form, yet really strong.
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Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
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Feb 19, 2020 16:54:58 GMT
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The non return valve is a good shout! Where did you mount it on yours?
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,872
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Feb 19, 2020 17:21:00 GMT
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Where is your electric pump? AFAIK most pumps prefer to push, rather than pull, so are better mounted near to the tank.
If you've done a bike carb conversion from EFI, then the next question is where are you powering the fuel pump from? An EFI pump will only prime for a second or two, some don't even prime at all. The pump on most carb engines runs from the moment you turn the key, and on my Daimler it can take 10+ seconds for it to fill the float chambers if the car has sat. Being an old fashioned points pump you can hear it stop when the floats and full and then I know it's time to turn the key.
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Last Edit: Feb 19, 2020 17:21:25 GMT by goldnrust
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Feb 19, 2020 17:42:40 GMT
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It’s a facet pump mounted near the tank. It was originally carb’ed, so power to it is via a new switched live run to it.
It’s hard to tell when it’s primed as facet pumps don’t seem to cut out (well mine doesn’t)...it just keeps pumping.
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You can hear most facet pumps ticking as the solenoid moves back and forth pushing the diaphram, when they have built up pressure in the fuel line the pumping slows down. If it never slows down there is an issue as you are likley flooding the carbs.
Bike carbs require a very very low fuel pressure and as far as i know there isn't a facet pump that supplies a low enough psi out the box so you need to add a pressure regulator in line.
Also a bike carb'd engine should fire up without the pump running just from the fuel in the bowls of the carbs, it won't stay running but it should fire right up. The only way fuel should leak back from the fuel bowls is if the float heights are not set right (a full bowl lifts the float to shut off the inlet valve so nothing can leak back) So you might also want to check the float height settings
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Feb 20, 2020 11:49:15 GMT
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This is the pump i'm using (Rated between 1-4psi) www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/facet-posi-flow-electric-fuel-pump-15-400psi-60104-907-p.aspI've never heard it slow no matter how long you leave it on...interesting i might try disconnecting from the carbs, and just bunging the end temporary, as then i'll find out if it will cut out/slow at any point. [EDIT] - I might have answered my own question: "My new Facet pump seems to run constantly, but the old pump used to slow down or stop. Is the new pump defective?
No. All current Facet low-pressure pumps run constantly as long as power is supplied.
Older Gold-Flo (cylindrical) pumps were known as "Interruptor" pumps because they would start off pumping very quickly, then slow down as they built pressure. They might even stop completely once they reached their design pressure. The interruptor behavior went away when Facet changed the Gold-Flo series from breaker points to the same solid-state operation as the cube-style pumps (around the late 1990s). The part numbers for solid-state Gold-Flo pumps have an E at the end to indicate "Electronic" operation."Will also check the float height levels... |
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Last Edit: Feb 20, 2020 11:52:03 GMT by sarkie83
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