820
South East
Posts: 790
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I am new this rust game but owning a 26 year old Rover it was only a matter of time and it has finally caught me up. This is the area for immediate repair, a combination of roll cage welding on the other side and old age where the fuel filler neck fits. This is inside top of a rear wheel arch.   I want to clean off the underseal, paint and loose rust, then treat the metal, paint and underseal it. I need something like an angle grinder with stiff wire wheel, having followed other projects on here I have seen wire wheels used. I have an angle grinder and maybe I just need wire wheel attachments but it is a bit fierce and probably not suitable for small confined places. I would prefer a bit more control and precision with variable speed and mains powered as my compressor struggles with continuous use air tools. Your recommendations and a few dos and donts too please would be much appreciated. Jim |
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Last Edit: Apr 15, 2020 13:59:56 GMT by 820
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If you’re looking for control and a small area I’d be inclined to use a hand wire brush, or one on a drill rather than angry grinders, and then finish with emery and treat with a converter, takes a bit longer but saves ripping bits apart, including yourself
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You would be better to clean off areas of the original factory thick body coating with a sharp implement like a old wood chisel has this is very difficult remove through mechanical abrasion - you may well find that some of the rust has crept under it within a small radius the mounting points - given the restricted access I would suggest a power file - these can be electric or air powered and are an inexpensive but very handy piece of kit that you will use time & again - being variable speed they are readily controlable - once cleaned up I can highly recommend the use of 'Bilt Hamber's Hydrate 80' for treating the surface area with - once cured this can be primed & painted or treated with a underbody surface coating
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Last Edit: Feb 1, 2020 15:05:24 GMT by Deleted
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 984
Club RR Member Number: 13
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The only way I'd trust by hand is rubbing it with 80 grit glass paper. It's hard work, but anything else will either do nothing or polish the rust. My first choice is always a knotted wheel (not cup) on an angle grinder.
I agree on the Bilt Hamber.
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Last Edit: Feb 1, 2020 16:06:55 GMT by ferny
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The only way I'd trust by hand is rubbing it with 80 grit glass paper. It's hard work, but anything else will either do nothing or polish the rust. My first choice is always a knotted wheel (not cup) on an angle grinder. I agree on the Bilt Hamber. Yet to find a power file that polishes rust - it will physically remove it and in next to no time - providing you control the speed and take a little care it's the obvious choice for the task |
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Any recommended brands of power file?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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I've got a Black & Decker powerfile, great bit of kit to get into tight spots. I have killed a few over the years, and usually need to replace the roller end assembly at least once during each powerfile lifetime. If that's too big and aggressive, a dremel type tool with a diamond tipped burr is great for really fine rust removal.
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Any recommended brands of power file? There are quite a few out there - most of the electric ones are ok but are more bulky than the air powered ones - air powered ones are reasonably cheap but you require a decent compressor - main point more than anything is by all means purchase a cheap power file but don't purchase cheap belts they either split or the abrasive surface falls off the belt within seconds of use - I use a compact air powered one and it was less than £30 - just had a quick look at the electric ones Clarke is sub £60 - the Black & Decker one is over £70 - Makita do a professional one that's £180 - if was going down the electric route both Sealey & Silverline now do a slimline version that looks significantly better than the larger side motor versions - a quick trawl of E Bay gets you the Silverline one for £36 or the Sealey version for £55 |
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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Firstly thanks all for taking time to post, your advice is very appreciated. I had forgotten about the power file GN, I used to have access to an air powered one (we called it "the belt sander") it was used for many different tasks around the workshop, usually getting out of trouble. I will order one next week, it will be Draper because I can get a good deal with them and will report how well it compares to the old air powered one I'm used to. The Hydrate 80 I just bought my first bottle and used it this week on another rust repair and it looks and feels like top stuff. Draper mini belt sander
It will be at least a couple of weeks before I start on this as I already have several different jobs on the car going at once |
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you could try some Bilt hamber deox gel it's not as quick as using power tools i have used it and it works very well
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815 
Club RR Member Number: 144
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I've got one of the Silverline ones. It is okay, for cleaning up rust etc it is pretty good, and nice'n'light and good at getting into spaces. It is a little gutless for grinding welds, but for a £35 tool - just fine. |
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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I’ve said before that I tend to use screwfix over my other local tool suppliers, they usually have stuff in stock, and IME even when I’ve killed something through my own fault, if it’s in the warranty period they exchange or refund no questions asked, certainly my local lot do, and for tools at the cheaper end their stuff is pretty good I don’t have any connection with them otherwise! 😀 |
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 984
Club RR Member Number: 13
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The only way I'd trust by hand is rubbing it with 80 grit glass paper. It's hard work, but anything else will either do nothing or polish the rust. My first choice is always a knotted wheel (not cup) on an angle grinder. I agree on the Bilt Hamber. Yet to find a power file that polishes rust - it will physically remove it and in next to no time - providing you control the speed and take a little care it's the obvious choice for the task We're pretty much agreeing with either other. I took the "by hand" to mean just that. I'd love a power file! In fact, this thread will probably remind me to get one. |
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820
South East
Posts: 790
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Good point, pictures of the Draper tool hide the motor on the side. Going on moglites comment and motor ratings it looks like it is the power step up from the inline motors requires a bigger motor mounted on the side. Hopefully angle adjustment of the sander will allow access to the area pictured above. |
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The Sealey & the Silverline tools appear to be the same item but with different maker's name, different colours & different price. |
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The Sealey & the Silverline tools appear to be the same item but with different maker's name, different colours & different price. Yep I think you are correct - purchase the cheaper Silverline one in that case  |
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Last Edit: Feb 3, 2020 22:14:28 GMT by Deleted
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bricol
Part of things
Posts: 285
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Those stripping wheels are pretty much what I was going to put, although I got some 3M versions at a good price. Strip the paint, underseal, rust etc without wrecking the metal left.
Wire brushes in drills and angle grinders just polish the rust. Try dragging something hard and thing across your brushed area - see an orange line again.
With my Lancia, I simply paid a travelling sand blaster bloke to come and cover my drive, garden, the road, most of next doors drive with sand - but the 75 quid it cost to do both rear inner wings and the rear subframe was money well and truly spent. 16 yrs later, those areas, painted with epoxy paint and decent underseal are still in excellent condition.
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