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Jul 10, 2018 21:19:27 GMT
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Chris, how will it work with the repaint? The paint that is on it looks .....er......fair.... Your paint will look superb in comparison. Will you have to try to dumb it down a bit to blend in? Mark - I'm going to have problems matching the orange peel, paint runs and dry paint stripes on the car - will paint has normal then a loose flat and just a compound back - if I polish any further it's going look a proper mismatch - but my favourite method if it appears too bright / shiny against existing paint is to go over it with a superfine scotchbrite and knock it back that way so yes it will certainly have to be dumbed back has you put it.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,087
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Jul 10, 2018 21:44:07 GMT
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Take a paint chip to your local paint mixing DIY shop and get a tin of Dulux gloss made up to match. Heat gently on the stove and then slop it on with a 4" brush. Allow to sag and run in places. Nobody will ever know you did anything then and the gloss will naturally disappear after 40 miles or 6 weeks, whichever happens first. Make sure you use quite a lot of filler before painting too, for maximum concourse points.
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Jul 10, 2018 21:45:25 GMT
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You Said it was radical to use the grinder and then weld up the rear door gap on the Corsair, some how I think the body file was a tad more radical than a slitting disc.
Was the A pillar replacement bottom hinge panel made from Steel or Aluminium as you did nor mention?
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You Said it was radical to use the grinder and then weld up the rear door gap on the Corsair, some how I think the body file was a tad more radical than a slitting disc. Was the A pillar replacement bottom hinge panel made from Steel or Aluminium as you did nor mention? Body file is more controllable and maintains a straight edge over the vertical length of the door skin - it would be far more difficult to mainatain a straight cut line / profile edge with a slitting disc or flap wheel A post is steel - the front bulkhead including the A posts is fabricated from steel with all other outer panels being alloy but primarily attached to a steel superstructure
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Sids just been over for his progress & quality control inspection and he is fine with the work to date
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,487
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Jul 11, 2018 12:20:57 GMT
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Now why do I always initially miss your new posts? A great read once again. You make me miss my metalwork/weldathon stage on the granada...
You've also really inspired me to try my hand at welding again. Once the house is done, that will be my personal growth focus.
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Jul 11, 2018 13:06:05 GMT
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I'm going to have problems matching the orange peel, paint runs and dry paint stripes on the car thats not something a pro can just waltz up and fake, i could show you how metal glue. is that the 2 part stuff in double syringe that kind of does a maze run through nozzle to mix it ?
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Last Edit: Jul 11, 2018 13:09:13 GMT by darrenh
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Jul 11, 2018 17:17:11 GMT
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Excellent skills and timing. My Morris Oxford Traveller is also suffering from "Doors too big for the hole" and I've been pondering what to do. I like your solution of bonding and rivets a lot. I assume the epoxy is sandable to give a nice finish to the edge of the door ? Did you use steel rivets, or ali ones ? Thanks again for taking the time to show us your skills and techniques
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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Jul 11, 2018 18:05:08 GMT
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Hi. Reading your posts for the first time and absolutely gob smacked at the skill and attention to detail. I am also very interested in the bonding method as I don't weld!! Do you think the bonding and rivet method would work on the headlight mounting assembly (https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-818872P) on a MkIV Triumph Spitfire bonnet or would it need welding?
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nze12
Part of things
Posts: 186
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Jul 11, 2018 19:24:32 GMT
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Ahem! How did this escape from the kitchen???
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1986 BMW E30 refreshed to original spec 1973 BMW E12 520 converting to Motorsport 530 1982 XJS V12 converting to 5 speed manual
Many landscaping projects overriding above!
Cogito cogito ergo cogito sum!
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Jul 11, 2018 19:38:11 GMT
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At least It's nothing to do with the taps or there would be hell to pay !!!!
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I'm going to have problems matching the orange peel, paint runs and dry paint stripes on the car thats not something a pro can just waltz up and fake, i could show you how metal glue. is that the 2 part stuff in double syringe that kind of does a maze run through nozzle to mix it ? Darren - Correct but now we are with the third generation of it and it's very, very good - it has to be - not only are car bodyshells being built with this, but race car cells, aircraft, boats etc
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Last Edit: Jul 12, 2018 6:15:47 GMT by Deleted
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Excellent skills and timing. My Morris Oxford Traveller is also suffering from "Doors too big for the hole" and I've been pondering what to do. I like your solution of bonding and rivets a lot. I assume the epoxy is sandable to give a nice finish to the edge of the door ? Did you use steel rivets, or ali ones ? Thanks again for taking the time to show us your skills and techniques The epoxy is workable once cured and easily worked back with a DA or flap wheel although I would advise achieving the final profile / finish with a skim of a high quality polyester body filler I used alloy body / steel pin countersunk rivets - you always use aircraft rivets / copper / brass rivets if you wished - take care to ensure that should you be using pop rivets that the centre hole / void is filled with the bonding If you don't have a body file you can achieve the same results with a large / long metal file - nothing wrong in using a flap wheel on the angle grinder if you have a bit to go at but I would use masking tape has a vertical guide line on the panel and finish the edge by hand with a file
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Last Edit: Jul 12, 2018 6:15:01 GMT by Deleted
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Ahem! How did this escape from the kitchen??? Quite easily - when I finished the kitchen at the end of last year SWMBO replaced virtually all the utensils - she had been purchasing & stashing stuff away in preparation of the arrival of her dream kitchen for four years - this particular utensil had the tip broken off it and I offered it a new home - it's great for parting jobs like this !
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At least It's nothing to do with the taps or there would be hell to pay !!!! Now if only I could get her to look after her car has well she looks after her taps / kitchen
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tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990
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I explain the bonding vs welding like this. Weld an edge, like that door, if it was steel, and you end up with what, say the length of the edge x approx 2mm of a fused section. For argument we'll say it's 600mm, times 2mm, surface area of joint is hence 1200mm. Very strong, but has changed the molecular structure of the material, shrinkage, burnt any rustproofers etc.
Open it up and get some glue in, you'll surely get it in at least 6-7mm, possibly 10mm. But even at 6mm, you have 3 times the area stuck together, no expansion or contraction of material, no damage to paint or rustproofer immediately adjacent to the joint, and you can easily join dissimilar materials.
Just my 2 cents.
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Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
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I explain the bonding vs welding like this. Weld an edge, like that door, if it was steel, and you end up with what, say the length of the edge x approx 2mm of a fused section. For argument we'll say it's 600mm, times 2mm, surface area of joint is hence 1200mm. Very strong, but has changed the molecular structure of the material, shrinkage, burnt any rustproofers etc. Open it up and get some glue in, you'll surely get it in at least 6-7mm, possibly 10mm. But even at 6mm, you have 3 times the area stuck together, no expansion or contraction of material, no damage to paint or rustproofer immediately adjacent to the joint, and you can easily join dissimilar materials. Just my 2 cents. All very valid points - unfortunately we are up against others that see metal bonding has a bodging format - well if they want to learn the hard way whom am I to expand their chain of thoughts & education !
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tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990
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Because I work in the motorhome industry, I use a lot of glue, so I'm biased lol.
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Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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Jul 12, 2018 10:42:59 GMT
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I explain the bonding vs welding like this. Weld an edge, like that door, if it was steel, and you end up with what, say the length of the edge x approx 2mm of a fused section. For argument we'll say it's 600mm, times 2mm, surface area of joint is hence 1200mm. Very strong, but has changed the molecular structure of the material, shrinkage, burnt any rustproofers etc. Open it up and get some glue in, you'll surely get it in at least 6-7mm, possibly 10mm. But even at 6mm, you have 3 times the area stuck together, no expansion or contraction of material, no damage to paint or rustproofer immediately adjacent to the joint, and you can easily join dissimilar materials. Just my 2 cents. All very valid points - unfortunately we are up against others that see metal bonding has a bodging format - well if they want to learn the hard way whom am I to expand their chain of thoughts & education ! Pop riveting a bit of old fridge casing to the floor and running a bead of bathroom silicone round it isn't the same thing - alas some think it is.. Does a suitable adhesive class as "cold welding" for MoT-proof repairs, I wonder? Depending on the actual bits being joined (and the adhesive used), you could quite easily deduce that the rivets are only there to hold it until the glue (I'm using the terms loosely) has set. Take several hours (might even be days - depends on where it is) in new automotive build scenarios. Likewise, when applying some adhesives, the line only has a certain time before the parts have to be mated up - take too long (such as a breakdown) and either the part is scrapped, or some lucky soul has to remove the glue and it gets reapplied.
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Jul 12, 2018 11:28:47 GMT
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So in the new age of bonded riveted bodyshells - cold process / bonded repairs have to be accepted has that is how the vehicle was built in the first place - accident repairs have to be undertaken utilising the same methods too - I would have to read the latest MOT manual but I'm pretty certain that correctly undertaken bonded repairs are an accepted method of repair - having said that where possible I prefer to use the original factory process but some cases call for an alternative method of repair.
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