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Mar 27, 2016 21:42:38 GMT
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I'm at the limit of adjustment, and I think the screws are ridged. Its done 50k so I'm assuming original screws.
I also plan on getting valve seats fitted.
I'm not sure whats best here though.
Do I have seats fitted so valve heights are to spec then try and find new screws? Or Resurface screws and get valve seats fitted to work with the now undersize screws? or Try and get undersize screws and work to those. Inlet valves don't need hardened seats, but might need re grinding. In which case I'm going to need inlet seats too or undersize/re ground screws.
Untill I open it up I wont know for sure whats worn, but with lack of parts I'm not sure if I should try and get it all back to spec or just make it all work properly.
Anyone got and standard or 1st under screws?
Or, should I just give the whole assembly to the engine shop and bend over?
I'm sure this system was great when adjusters in all sizes were easily available but 45 years on its a pain!
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MonzaPhil
Posted a lot
Think like a man of action, act like a man of thought
Posts: 2,456
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Mar 27, 2016 22:34:24 GMT
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I'd hope to not need to do these things at just 50k but you best and easiest bet is to get the first set of screws to replace yours. Adjustable hydraulic tappets are a silly idea I'm sure.
If your symptoms are noisy valve train, have you checked your oil pressure? I'm guessing you've done all the tests and physical measurement is what's showing this problem.
Sadly I wouldn't like to guess where you'd turn up the bits you want.
Sent from mine using proboards
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This is now a clicky linky!
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Mar 27, 2016 22:54:38 GMT
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Not noisy no, and to my knowledge not hydraulic tappets either.
The issue is, as the valve seats recede the clearances close up and you run out of adjustment. This used to happen slower with leaded petrol but the screws were available in under sizes to allow more adjustment. But that was then. I believe 50k is about right for each size of adjuster screws.
With unleaded this all speeds up.
Idealy id stick valve seats in, get the stem heights to spec then stick new screws in. However, if I cant find new screws I need to resurface mine. That would mean the new valve seats would need to be cut deeper into the head. I could regrind the screws, bang em back in and drive it untill the valve seats regress more but id rather just get it all sorted once and for all.
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MonzaPhil
Posted a lot
Think like a man of action, act like a man of thought
Posts: 2,456
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What engine is it and what car, year etc?
I'll have a look in my book of leaning Vauxhall engines if I can dig it out.
If the valve seats have worn badly then yes, get some hardened seats in and see how much difference that makes. Best case scenario is that your adjusters will be able to adjust again. Hopefully any major wear is restricted to the valve seats.
Sent from my chair using proboards
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This is now a clicky linky!
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Mar 28, 2016 10:44:06 GMT
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Its a bedford cf. If the adjuster screws arent worn then all will be well but when adjusting them the gap doesnt always open with every click and sometimes the gap decreases. I wont know for sure till its apart, I just like to be prepared for the worst
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Mar 28, 2016 11:32:05 GMT
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Hi, Ahh that's what I remember, the screw bears directly on the top of the valve stem so wears a groove in the ramp flat on the screw. The first turn of the screw puts it onto an unworn section thus altering the adjustment unduly if you carry on turning it you get the adjustment you need on the fresh part of the screw ramp. Maybe not ideal but it will give you a bit of breathing space to sort a better solution and you can use the vehicle, plus you may not need another screw at all. I hope this makes sense.
Colin
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Last Edit: Mar 28, 2016 11:34:24 GMT by colnerov
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,565
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Mar 28, 2016 11:49:49 GMT
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I don't know much about these engines but a bit of wear elsewhere might have compensated for any valve seat recession.
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Mar 28, 2016 12:03:10 GMT
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I had valve clearance, but not enough. I managed to open them a little but I have no more adjustment. There still a little too tight and the seats will keep recessing so it wont be long before I'm screwed.
So, while its off the road ill fit valve seats.
But my screws are worn.
So, I either reface the screws and get the valve seats done so the stem height works with the re ground/undersize screws, or try and get new screws and set the seats to as new spec.
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Last Edit: Mar 28, 2016 12:03:57 GMT by VW
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Mar 28, 2016 12:45:56 GMT
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Foxwood Diesels at Whit moor did my pinto inserts, I just dropped them the bare head, they were sensible on price.
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Mar 28, 2016 13:19:19 GMT
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Thanks, ill give them a call. I normally use the place up by hilsborough but ill see how prices compare. Might rebore and swap pistons at same time but I'm REALLY trying not to get carried away LOL.
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There used to be a bloke in Leeds called Adrian Bailey who was good for CF parts,i used to take new old stock stuff to him sometimes.Don't know if he's still around,the place was really run down but packed out with CF stuff and always a breaker or two laid outside the unit.
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gazz81
Part of things
Posts: 842
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There used to be a bloke in Leeds called Adrian Bailey who was good for CF parts,i used to take new old stock stuff to him sometimes.Don't know if he's still around,the place was really run down but packed out with CF stuff and always a breaker or two laid outside the unit. These guy's? www.roverland.eu/index.html
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Mar 30, 2016 15:32:24 GMT
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There used to be a bloke in Leeds called Adrian Bailey who was good for CF parts,i used to take new old stock stuff to him sometimes.Don't know if he's still around,the place was really run down but packed out with CF stuff and always a breaker or two laid outside the unit. These guy's? www.roverland.eu/index.htmlLooks like him yeah,moved premises by the look of it.He used to be in a pretty ramshackle place on Water Lane from memory back in the mid 2000's.Slightly funny sort of fella but right enough when he got used to you. He could still get a bit of old stock CF stuff from the ex Bedford dealer in Hunslet at that time,aided by a Bedford fanatic in parts who had all the old fiches.Sadly he passed on and I doubt anyone has any interest in even looking these days.
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Mar 30, 2016 17:10:14 GMT
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Yeah, I asked him about screws, he thinks he has some.
Went to foxwood diesels today and they said bring the head down, strip it down with them and they will advice/fix it in the best way.
I think ill probably reface the screws then get inlet seats cut and exhaust seats replaced so it all works with the reground screws.
Ill see what the pros think though.
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Have you tried Stuart Anderson at magardsport.com ? He does a lot of slant four stuff for Magnum and Firenza - I know he has the different thickness cam carrier gaskets, but I can't remember if he said he'd got different adjusters as well. You'll need to email, the web site is not much use.
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I didnt know about them, thanks.
Machine shop was also talking about grinding down the buckets.
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Is there enough excess thickness on the top of the cam bucket to grind some off for extra clearance? I'd have thought lopping a few thou off the end of the valve might be better, but not many times.
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According to the manual you shouldn't grind the valve stems.
No idea why though.
Would seem like a sensible option.
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Hi, That doesn't make sense, They say don't grind the valve which has a more or less static load on it. But they say it's alright to grind the case hardening of the bucket which has the camshaft with a sliding action on it. I know what I would sooner do.
Colin
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Last Edit: Apr 1, 2016 13:29:08 GMT by colnerov
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Manual says don't grind the valves. When I told machine shop that they said 'well, we could grind the buckets instead)
I cant think of any reason not to grind the valves except it may cause slight confusion to future inexperienced owners trying to understand why the new screws they bought don't work.
I'm trying to end up with it all to original spec if I can anyway.
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