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Jan 20, 2015 12:43:50 GMT
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Hi All, Quite pleased to see a couple of on-going TR7 restorations on this forum so thought I'd do a thread for mine. I finished a nut & bolt rebuild (sills, wings, arches, lots of new metal, etc) in early in 2014 and had a good summer with it but decided to sell it as it just didn't excite me enough to want to keep it. However, the more I drove it, the more I began to like it so now decided to keep it and develop it a little. At present, the car is pretty much standard except for MR2 seats and an electric water pump and controller to fix the mental Triumph design - which was the cause of the TR7 (and the Stag V8's) overheating & unreliability reputation. This year I'm looking at uprated & lowered springs to alleviate the "wallowy" handling and possibly electronic fuel injection to improve the driveability, especially during warm-up. The 2 litre Triumph slant-4 will get you from A to B but the car is crying out for a sportier motor. So maybe this autumn's project is to fit a twin cam 16V motor like the Mazda MX5's. If anyone else has replaced the Triumph lump with a more modern engine other than a V8 (too big & thirsty) or 16V Sprint (too old tech), I'd be grateful if you could let me know what engine you used and how it turned out.
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Last Edit: Jan 20, 2015 18:38:30 GMT by bob1957
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Jan 20, 2015 13:06:17 GMT
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That is nice...
How about a Ford Zetec engine...?! That could be an option perhaps.
Please do let us know what route you take as these old TR's are superb motors!!!
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***GARAGE CURRENTLY EMPTY***
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Jan 20, 2015 13:07:15 GMT
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Depends on your budget, but there are a few different engines you could swap in. The Japanese stuff could be exciting. i think the main thing that improves the experience with a sports car is the exhaust note, a good stainless system can make you fall for a car.
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Jan 20, 2015 13:10:35 GMT
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Saab turbo? There's a tenuous family link and IIRC don't they bolt up to an Omega manual box?
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Jan 20, 2015 13:20:39 GMT
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yep my thinking saab turbo... think theres a manual box for sale on here now from a rear wheel drive vauxhall.
its either that or an mx5 as you said then a budget turbo install?
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Jan 20, 2015 14:03:07 GMT
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What about BMW power? loads of RWD choices , think there's a 2.5pi with BMW power on here somewhere... oh BTW great looking 7 there very clean.
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Last Edit: Jan 20, 2015 14:03:48 GMT by Deleted
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heathrobinson
Part of things
Broken everything
Posts: 848
Club RR Member Number: 111
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Jan 20, 2015 14:45:09 GMT
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What electric water pump did you use? I've been looking at these, but it's a lot of trust to put in a thing. I've ended up looking at the bmw jobs with a TinyCWA controller, but that works out at a hell of a cost!
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qwerty
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,410
Club RR Member Number: 52
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Jan 20, 2015 15:09:33 GMT
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Your plans sound good. I like TR7's because of how unloved they are. Lowered stiffened suspension, better wheels and wide sticky tyres and a decent powerplant. Duratec with an MX5 6 speed on itbs would be nice if a bit pricey.
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Jan 20, 2015 16:05:28 GMT
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Thanks for the responses guys - loads of good suggestions. I should have said however that I'm a tight-wad at heart, so cost will be a major factor. The BMW 2.5 straight six could be a great engine for this car but I think it would need bulkhead mods. The BMW 1.9 (M44) looks good though and definitely worth considering. Ford would also be a good choice but cost is high when you consider the bellhousing adapter and sump needed. Saab turbo - from what I understand Saab made many changes to the basic Triumph block e.g. its installed in a Saab with flywheel to the front, so I think its too far removed from its Triumph roots to be an easy option. I'm thinking the MX5 1.8 option is the easiest (i.e. cheapest!) route - should give about 130 bhp in basic form, maybe 140 with a bit of tuning. @ heathrobinson - I used the Davies Craig EWP 80 (you can get it on ebay or direct from Demon Tweeks around £155) with my own-design controller. More info here and here (scroll down a bit). It works great except its too efficient. I set the pump motor to run at minimum 50% capacity. This proved too much since when driving at speed the engine runs far too cool. Need to allow the pump motor to drop down to maybe as low as 10% to keep the engine at the right temperature. In town driving in the summer (almost 30 degrees C) the temperature was near enough constant at 82 degrees and the fan kicked-in only occasionally.
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Last Edit: Jan 20, 2015 16:12:42 GMT by bob1957
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heathrobinson
Part of things
Broken everything
Posts: 848
Club RR Member Number: 111
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Jan 20, 2015 20:23:05 GMT
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Have you looked at the TinyCWA controller? Have a look, there might be a few ideas that'd help in yours. The way he's addressed the overcooling issue is to pulse the pump as opposed to just running it slowly. Has it during warm up too, to help the engine get up to temp faster, but without the risk of localised overheating anywhere in the block.
How long have you been running it like this? It's only reliability that gives me pause for thought, it's about 15bhp freed up if I loose the power steering and water pump. I've got the water pump casing all tig'd up, I just need to decide which pump I'm going to use.
It's a good looking wedge you've got there, I like that blue.
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Jan 20, 2015 22:15:28 GMT
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Hi heathrobinson, Glad you like the blue Have had a quick look at the tinyCWA. Price seems reasonable for what you get - similar to Davies Craig. Will read though the site in more detail. I set my system up with continuous power to the pump to give around 50% capacity at all times. The microcontroller can increase power from 50% to 100% using pulse width modulation (PWM). So even if the microcontroller packs in, you will always have a "get-you-home" capability. When I get around to updating the controller I have the option of either lowering the continuous power or removing it altogether and giving total control of the pump to the microcontroller - either using PWM or pulsing the pump (the Davies Craig controller does this too) or a combination of both. I still like the idea of having a continuous low-tech feed to the pump motor as microcontrollers can still go wrong, despite very good reliability nowadays. From what I can see, there's probably very strong circulation due to convection when the feed from the bottom of radiator is relatively very cold (i.e. when going at speed), so perhaps pulsing will be necessary. I've been running the EWP since about March and added the controller around April last year and so far its never missed a beat. I was worried about reliability too but I'd say the EWP itself is an improvement over the Triumph slant-4 design. The EWP is simpler and won't wreck your engine if it goes wrong, unlike the original. And if the microcontroller fails, then you can jump-wire the pump directly to 12V. This will get you home albeit on a cool engine.
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Last Edit: Jan 20, 2015 22:35:46 GMT by bob1957
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Jan 20, 2015 23:45:24 GMT
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I have never seen it done but thinking of slant-fours, how about the Lotus 900 series? As found in the wedgy shaped Lotuses and the Jensen Healey?
I remember reading up on fitting a Rover T-Series turbo to one too but it looked like it might be too tall to fit. Shame as it's based on the Austin/Rover O-Series which was used with the LT77 and can bolt on if you can get hold of the adapter plate (came in the SD1 2000 and some Sherpa vans).
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I've got Rovers.
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SamR380, Lotus 900 sounds interesting. You occasionally see some clapped-out Eclat/Elite/Excels going for small change. Will investigate this.
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andyf
South West
Posts: 415
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Jan 21, 2015 12:39:38 GMT
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Hi Bob, looking forward to seeing what you decide on. Don`t know if you are on it but try looking at the forum on triumphtr7.com, there is a wealth of experience on there and people aren`t precious like on many one make forums and happily embrace modified vehicles. You may have trouble joining though because I think it is shut to new registrations at the moment due to spamming issues, but e-mail me if that is the case and I will see what I can do.
Good luck with it.
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1980 Triumph TR7.
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Jan 21, 2015 13:40:36 GMT
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With a rear sump setup on a Toyota 1UZFE, you can get a 4.0L V8 in there. You can buy entire running cars cheap over there, pull out what you need, scrap the rest. I had that swap planned with my 1UZ and a TR7, but my Triumph was too rusted, so I let it go and chose another. But that car you have, is really nice. Best of luck either way.
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Last Edit: Jan 21, 2015 13:41:16 GMT by grenade
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Jan 22, 2015 13:11:57 GMT
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Hi andyf - Yeah I visit that site regularly and there is some excellent threads on there. Plenty of V8 & V6 conversions but can't see many 4 pot conversions - obviously not as popular or maybe I need to search a bit more?
Hi grenade - A 4 litre V8 sounds awesome but the fuel bills scare me (I'm Scottish after all). For me, a modern 150bhp 16v twin cam 4 should give decent performance vs economy.
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Last Edit: Jan 22, 2015 14:32:13 GMT by bob1957
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Jan 22, 2015 19:32:37 GMT
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ford zetec, get a 2.0, put it on carbs and electronic ignition, a ford type 9 box bolts up against it. price wise you can get a brand spanking new 2.0 for £700 or second hand for peanuts, should produce 140ish bhp i should think. it should sound fruity enough with a decent exhaust, also ashley competition exhausts do a exhaust manifold for escorts which could be modified to fit. that would be my route, either that or a toyota 4AGE from a corolla or mk1 mr2, bit harder to find but they use a distributer which means easier carb conversion.
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village
Part of things
Always carries a toolbox. Because Volkswagen.......
Posts: 567
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Jan 23, 2015 16:03:03 GMT
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howz about a vaux V6? you can pick up an omega for thee eights of eff all and you have a unstressed 200 horse (plus or minus depending what size engine you go for), they're not spectacularly heavy (175ish kg) and they sound great too. sound is important when there's no roof to get in the way.....
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"The White Van is strong with this one...."
Chris "Chesney" Allen 1976-2005 RIP
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MiataMark
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,963
Club RR Member Number: 29
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Jan 23, 2015 16:11:21 GMT
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As BMW own the Triumph name a 4cyl BMW engine would be appropriate. You could even go diesel and use the 320/freelander engine....
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1990 Mazda MX-52012 BMW 118i (170bhp) - white appliance 2011 Land Rover Freelander 2 TD4 2003 Land Rover Discovery II TD52007 Alfa Romeo 159 Sportwagon JTDm
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Jan 23, 2015 16:18:45 GMT
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I have defo seen a Rover M16-powered TR7 in the past, i reckon that or a T-series has gotta be the engine of choice - its cheap, 'in the family' and will go on your existing gearbox with the right bellhousing which shouldn't be too horrendous to find. I love a nice 2.0 16v four cylinder.
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1974 Lancia Beta Saloon 1975 Mazda 929 Coupé 1986 Mazda 929 Wagon 1979 Mazda 929 Hardtop 1982 Fiat Argenta 2.0 iniezione elettronica 1977 Toyota Carina TA14 1989 Subaru 1800 Wagon 1982 Hyundai Pony 1200TL 2-dr 1985 Hyundai Pony 1200 GL 1986 Maserati 425 Biturbo 1992 Rover 214 SEi 5-dr 2000 Rover 45 V6 Club 1994 Peugeot 205 'Junior' Diesel 1988 Volvo 760 Turbodiesel Saloon 1992 Talbot Express Autosleeper Rambler 2003 Renault Laguna SPEARS OR REAPERS
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