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hi
the (standard) 2.0 pinto in my Cortina decided on Friday that it was only going to run until it warms up, at which point it splutters to a halt and when I restart it will only go for another minute before dying (until it fully cools down then it runs ok again)
aa man thought the coil was to blame but I got a new one over the weekend and it's doing exactly the same thing
sparkplugs are less than a year old and are getting a spark, I don't know how old the leads are but I can't imagine them causing it
we did strip down, replace gaskets etc. and clean the carb (32/36 weber) a couple of weeks ago, everything seemed ok -
my uneducated guess is that it is the carb and that it runs fine while the auto choke is functioning and is then getting too much fuel once it's up to temperature?
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mad
Part of things
Posts: 126
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Has it still got points and condenser. If so have you tried changing the condenser?
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psycho83
East of England
Rhythm and Booze
Posts: 777
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I had a very similar problem on an old Hillman, Turned out to be the ignition coil breaking down when hot. So that is another possibility along with the above from mad.
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yes it's still got the points - not changed the condenser
will give that a go next
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I had a very similar problem on an old Hillman, Turned out to be the ignition coil breaking down when hot. So that is another possibility along with the above from mad. I bought and fitted a new ignition coil and that made no difference something like this...  is there another kind of coil? |
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The Cortina has a ballast resister in the wiring loom that powers coil. No idea if they fail / break down but one way of checking is next time it dies hot wire from battery direct to coil therefore bypassing the resistor. If it then runs you know that the fault is with feed or resister wire. Did it run OK after you serviced the carb and now the fault occurred at a later date or has the fault been ever since you touched the carb ? If overfueling then if you pull a plug after it dies you will see it would be black with soot. If normal colour then not overfueling. I suspect you didn't put carb back together properly. Maybe a gasket is blocking a hole or similar silly little problem. My father changed the headgasket and other parts on my stepmothers Mini van due to misfire - turned out to be condenser. The ones available today can be of mixed quality (a lot of ignition parts are made in India) and failure is not uncommon so I'd also say try changing condensor - at worse you have a spare to keep for emergencies  Paul h |
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The Cortina has a ballast resister in the wiring loom that powers coil. No idea if they fail / break down but one way of checking is next time it dies hot wire from battery direct to coil therefore bypassing the resistor. If it then runs you know that the fault is with feed or resister wire. Did it run OK after you serviced the carb and now the fault occurred at a later date or has the fault been ever since you touched the carb ? Paul h I'm aware of the ballast resistor and made sure to get the right coil, no idea where it is, what it looks like or if it can fail though (but it's part of a car that I own so it almost certainly WILL fail!) I'll make sure to get a condenser (and points) from my local autostore as they are pretty good and should have a decent one the car ran ok (well, a bit poorly but it needs the timing looked at) for a good two weeks after we took the carb apart so I have done well over 100 miles before this fault cropped up |
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check to see if you are still getting fuel pumped to the carb once the car is warm : )
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check to see if you are still getting fuel pumped to the carb once the car is warm : ) it definitely looked like it was squirting in there right up to it conking out |
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UPDATE
It now isn't running fine when it's cold either.
It idles OK but when you put your foot on the gas it loses power at around 3000 and drops back down to below the idle
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,565
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I was thinking it might be the auto choke. When the springs in them get tired they don't go through the full amount of travel. I was thinking perhaps you had set the idle speed to be correct while the idle stop was still sitting on the choke cam.
Probably isn't this could the float level be incorrect so you aren't getting enough fuel when accelerating ?
I've had problems with carb icing as well and could get normal idle and steady increases of speed but no sudden acceleration. Dirt in the jet could cause a similar problem.
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Do a compression test first mate ,sounds like low or little compression
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UPDATE It now isn't running fine when it's cold either. It idles OK but when you put your foot on the gas it loses power at around 3000 and drops back down to below the idle Still think it's a carb fault. What about an air leak between carb and manifold ? Paul H |
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For what it's worth I once had to strip a pair of carbs and managed to put a gasket in the wrong way round and suffered the same symptoms.
The pump was pumping fuel to the carb but causing over pressure and then cutting off the supply.
Worth a look.
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1965 Morris Minor 1000 soon to be 1380
1997 MK1 MX-5 1.8 (sold)
2009 MK3 MX-5 2.0 (sold)
2008 Mini Cooper (sold)
2003 Mini Cooper S (sold)
Fixed wheel Raleigh Clubman (sold)
1982 Yamaha RS125DX (sold)
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
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I would check the rotor arm. My Beetle used to do near enough exactly this. If in doubt get a genuine item (easier (and pricier) said than done I admit) if you can source one (I simply soldered part of a coat hanger onto the existing rotor arm in my case).
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my first thought was carb but it ran ok for 2 weeks after we took it apart so I'm not sure why it would cause a problem now if we had put something back wrong
the last mechanic that looked at it said the points would need replacing soon btw. I got a set and a condenser this morning so we'll see if that does anything
I think I'm going to have to get a mobile mechanic round as I can't get it anywhere for it to be looked at
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ANOTHER UPDATE
as usual my tinkering makes things worse ;-(
I put a new condenser on and it and now it turns over but won't fire at all
(I tried putting the old one back on but it's the same - just by touching stuff on cars I make them worse!)
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ANOTHER UPDATE as usual my tinkering makes things worse ;-( I put a new condenser on and it and now it turns over but won't fire at all (I tried putting the old one back on but it's the same - just by touching stuff on cars I make them worse!) Did you swap the points aswell? If so did you gap them/set the dwell correctly? Timing set? |
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ANOTHER UPDATE as usual my tinkering makes things worse ;-( I put a new condenser on and it and now it turns over but won't fire at all (I tried putting the old one back on but it's the same - just by touching stuff on cars I make them worse!) Did you swap the points aswell? If so did you gap them/set the dwell correctly? Timing set? I didn't change the points because I didn't have a gauge to measure the gap (bought one last night) I can only guess that by taking the rotor arm off I have messed up the setting for the existing points will fiddle some more |
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If the condenser fails then often it damages the points as well. A quick check is to flick points open with ignition switched on. If big spark then you can bet condenser is / has failed. This spark then eroded the contact area of the points so they should be considered a "pair" and both changed at the same time.
Paul H
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