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Dec 24, 2012 23:28:49 GMT
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excellent offroad pics That sounds like an interesting plan, so is there a 2.8 petrol variant thats a good point, assumption is the mother of you know whats. the 2.8 petrol engine is a uk company using bigger pistons in a 2.5 engine, the bore and stroke doesnt match the tgv engine. so ignore me regards south american business !
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Dec 26, 2012 17:28:49 GMT
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In South Africa (I do not know about other markets), under BMW ownership, the BMW 2.8 petrol engine was used as one of the petrol power sources and has now become, I am told, quite sought after in the second hand market.
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1986 Mercedes 200 (W124) (Standard and daily) 1976 Peugeot 404 1800 Stickshift (Standard - awaiting complete resto, engine done) 1984 Ford Cortina (P100) LDV - Cab and chassis restored, interior and glass not fitted, brand new 3 liter engine (last 110kw Sierra XR6 engine fitted and married to 5 speed Toyota Gearbox), load body needed.
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Dec 26, 2012 21:34:08 GMT
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you might want to look at these folks... thats the fella's i already have one of their stage 2.1 heads which is why it would be a favourable conversion.
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Dec 26, 2012 22:05:46 GMT
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a bit more remedial work on the engine. the water pump was rattling around and ringing like a bell so i thought i would swap that out before it left me stranded. while that was off i had a go with the media blaster, just a cheapo clarke one into a cardboard box to catch most of it. came up ok with quite a fine alu oxide heres the old pump, you can see the age of it as its cast iron ! its been superceded by alloy now and assembled with a lick of black chassis paint on the pulley. (engine was running here if it looks weird) while the pump was off i made an inline adapter for the bottom hose, to fit a thermostatic switch for the kenlowe fan. originally the engine had a viscous fan mounted on the nose of the water pump but at some point it had been removed, a kenlowe fitted which was wired directly to the ignition barrel i scoured ebay to find a suitable bit of tube, had to be steel though so i could weld it myself. found some galvanised steel hose joiners for 7 quid, perfect! then i had to find something with the correct thread size to make a boss (M22 x1.5) ebay came up trumps again with some truck wheel nuts at 70p each haha ! the switch is a intermotor 50101 meant for a peugot 205, two poles with 84-79c and 88-83c to make the adapter i cut a hole halfway along the hose joiner with a dremel and slitting disk, then radiused the underside of the wheel nut to match the OD of the hose joiner then welded the nut to the hose joiner, test fitted the sender then cut the bottom rad hose and inserted the adapter finishing up with the wiring, i used a direct feed from the battery to a 30 amp relay, to the fan, and use the thermostatic switch to activate the relay. this is with the wires mocked, but i havent wrapped the loom in this pic. there was also a fan override switch in the dash, which i reinstated to force the fan on if i wanted.
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Dec 28, 2012 13:42:58 GMT
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Last Edit: Dec 28, 2012 13:44:11 GMT by darrenh
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Dec 28, 2012 13:50:22 GMT
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Dec 28, 2012 13:56:08 GMT
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Last Edit: Dec 28, 2012 13:58:14 GMT by darrenh
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Great landy, always got time for early 90's. I bought a 1986 90 in june this year and use in everyday. One of the best cars ive owned. Good work dude.
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1976 Triumph TR7 v8 2003 Mg zr 105 daily driver
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Dec 29, 2012 14:34:45 GMT
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Great landy, always got time for early 90's. I bought a 1986 90 in june this year and use in everyday. One of the best cars ive owned. Good work dude. thanks appreciate it at this stage I thought I had the landy licked into shape and unlikely to get the MOT man sweating next time. I started to ponder about the appearance of the landy. the very early models had quite a few styling touches carried over from the series 3, which sets them asside from the mid to late 80s models. things like the engines, the paint pallette, recessed lift up door handles, galvanised bumper and body cappings, the wheels and colours, spartan bare metal interiors, vinyl slab seats I liked these features, it made it look more "land rover" imho, yet from a distance it still looked like a tatty 7 year old defender instead of a 28 year old ninety. most landy owners strive for a bit of individuality, one thing I didnt want to do is go down the same old "overlanding" route with knobbly mud tyres, suspension lift, winches, chequer plate, hi lift jacks etc hung all over it. I wanted to keep it original as possible, then I spotted a couple of the prototype nineties in the dunsfold collection. I really liked the look of the front end, which was lifted from the series 3 109" V8 (it had the nose panel moved forward to give space for the engine and gearbox, and set the basic land rover sillouette for the next 30 years). so a plan was hatched to do a "make under", give my landy a bit more age related appearance. this is the starting point, generic plastic front end which didnt really change until 2007 the stage1 style mesh grills are a bit like hens teeth, originals are rare and theres a company remaking them on back order in batches, but who knows when they would start. so I decided to have a go at making one. the light bezels are easy as they are just series 3 items, and a direct 4 screw swap for the 90. the grill itself I started with a sheet of 10 guage galvanised mesh, inch spacing I started by removing the plastic grill and cutting the sheet of mesh to nearish size then using a cardboard cutout template of the 'ole, I carefully sliced the welds on the mesh and dressed the corners round (also note two columns removed near the top to give finger access to bonnet release) you can see from the above picture it left me with 1/3 square hanging over at each end, keeping it symmetrical. so using the grinder again I cut a rod from the remaining mesh to make the end caps, then welded them on (with galvanised precaution) a couple more little details to help it fit, tangs of the metal were separated from the mesh at the top to hook behind the nose panel, and I welded bzp washers at the bottom to screw the grille into original captive plastic nuts after this the grille was painted matte black, and so were the light bezels. the original square holes down the ends of the alloy nose panel were filled with grp, flatted and painted marine blue with gloss roller and original paint. (before and after) lastly I had the wheels refurbished at a local company I trust (lepsons for the folk in the southeast) they bare metalled them, run them up on the lathe to check they are true, then primed, painted and baked in original landrover limestone colour. costly but hopefully give me many years durability, and better than the crappy rattle can silver the guy at the garage did. as the old 205-80 radials were on their last leg I got some new tyres. bit limited for choice with offroad tyres that fit the original narrow steel wheels, but went for OEM and very much old school 750R16 radials and a set of tubes ! (general super all grip) note for diary, this is roughly where the cash ran out from the sale of previous two cars
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Last Edit: Dec 29, 2012 14:43:14 GMT by darrenh
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stefan
Posted a lot
If it isn't broken fix it till it is
Posts: 1,598
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Dec 29, 2012 16:42:38 GMT
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Looking good, carn't remember the last time I saw an early 90, I have a series 3 88 lined up for some love after I finish the currant project that is being delivered tomorrow.
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POWER IS EVERYTHING WITHOUT CONTROL
1985 Honda jazz 1997 Saab 93 convertible 2010 transit 280
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Dec 29, 2012 16:51:44 GMT
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The 90's looking good, nice to see one that hasn't had the lift kit, knobbly tyres, winch etc... I do like the proper galv mesh grille's on landy's, I've got a late series 2a mesh grille on my series 3
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Violet Vivid
Part of things
Reports of my demise were somewhat exaggerated
Posts: 734
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Dec 30, 2012 11:27:52 GMT
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Oooh I do like that!! ;D
Must admit while I prefer the early 90's to the later ones,t eh sort of mish-mash of S3 & coiler looks kinda odd.
I like the way you're taking this one, especially the 750r16's instead of 265/75r16s ;D
I really need to get the 2.25 diesel in my 88" rebuilt in the new year
xXx
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Violet, purple-loving Landy obsessed Purple-haired CyberPunk Almost model & occasional word wrangler regarding Landies xXxIf she can't decide on what kind of genitalia she likes to play with you're better off without her. Move on... play with Land-Rovers.
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Dec 31, 2012 17:45:55 GMT
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thanks guys now we are catching up, winter 2012. the rear crank seal leak had been getting progressively worse, which is an engine out job. so whilst its a tonne of work for 1 seal I thought I could freshen the engine up, new seals and what not, it would also give me much easier access to do some repairs on the bulkhead. so I put the landy on sorn, didn’t renew the insurance and it had a 6 month holiday on axle stands ! ground zero then, removing the nose panel, radiator and fan engine loaded onto the engine hoist then removed all the access panels around the transmission (easy life on land rovers !) to get to the gearbox bell housing bolts up and out onto temporary pallet (basically to undress the rear of the engine to put it on a stand) here still on the pallet I am removing the clutch and flywheel to get access to the rear crank seal clutch on its last legs, like I said on page 2, just when you think you have it licked... flywheel off, and a positive diagnosis on the oil leak then I removed the flywheel housing completely to get it onto the engine stand then continue to strip by removing the manifolds. these engines have a hot spot system, where the inlet and exhaust manifolds mate together and there’s a hole in the exhaust manifold which literally heats up the inlet manifold (gas only flows up to inlet manifold casting, no actual gas gets through). this system is because petrol homogenises better if its warm (with a carb that is) I continued on by removing the crank pulley, rocker cover, and then the cylinder head itself not in bad shape actually, nice buff colour on the valves. rockers were binding on the shaft though so they would have to be replaced and the cylinders themselves looking good, hone marks visible, no lip at the top. very slight hair line score down though then I taped up the block face and other holes, wheeled the stand into the road and got busy with a pot scrubbing brush and comma hyperclean (degreaser like gunk) as mentioned before, I was weighing up options for the engine. decided against an engine swap, instead to invest in the standard 4 pot engine with a new CNC machined /gas flowed/high compression cylinder head from ACR, which also means its can now run lead free petrol with no issues (hardened inserts). Gains quoted in the region of 10-15bhp, the ports aren’t enlarged so no loss of torque expected, but there is extensive work in the valve throats where its needed, and compression raised from 8:1 to 9:1 I continued on with the cleaning and painting of bolt on parts (it was all hammerite smooth black in coats, and then baked on for durability) silver paint is VHT enamel from halfords to kick the savings account while it was down I "accidentally" found this NOS 32/34DMTL on ebay, meant for the 2.5 version of this engine but the modified jetting would suit the cylinder head perfectly (this picture the carb is plopped onto the cleaned inlet manifold) its perfect because the spindle was leaking on my carb, which does have replacable seals but the spindle runs directly in the casting, no bush one more boring prep job before the exciting clean build, I had to get the old head gasket off the block mating face. I did this with a single edge razor held at very very shallow angle, with engine oil to lubricate. I was also holding a powerful industrial hoover in the other hand to immediately suck up carbon/gasket. blue roll stuff everywhere so it cant drop down the bolt holes, or galleries. I also cleaned and dried out the head bolt holes with blue roll and a tap run down to clean the threads (just to prevent head bolts hydraulicing on any remnants of oil) armed with this box of new gaskets I was pretty much set to start building the engine back up. timing chain cover refitted, new front oil seal and mud shield refitted, cylinder head is only temporarily fitted, pushrods slipped into the guides new rocker shaft, rockers and the rocker pedestals fitted which are clamped by some of the headbolts, lastly the head bolts torqued as per manual. I also refitted the water pump with new gasket inlet/exhaust manifolds refitted with new combi gasket. this is tricky as the manifolds are bolted to each other as well as to the head, so you have to be careful you aren’t stopping the manifolds tightening square lastly for the engine build I broke up the old crank spigot bearing, fitted a new one, refitted the flywheel housing and new rear seal, then refitted the flywheel and a new clutch + cover apologies for the massive picture dump, but easier to do it one go. next update is more chassis repairs, door repairs and upper bulkhead cosmetic repairs.
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Last Edit: Dec 31, 2012 17:55:36 GMT by darrenh
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Lovely! Hats off to you for taking the 'traditional' approach, one which I whole-heartedly approve of! Limestone steel wheels, and a four-pot petrol! I get sick to the teeth of seeing yet another, Tdi re-engined Tonka Toy! Usually with ALL of the curse word bolted on to it, complete with snorkel (funny how the guys with snorkels seem quit adverse to taking the cars near water!). I have a 2.5 Petrol from an early 90 (currently sat in Violet's garage!) which I'm going to rebuild for Leonard later this year. Looking at having the cam re-profiled along with doing some cylinder head work. I'm aiming for the 'magic' 100BHP mark
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thanks for the comments mrbob, appreciate it, and agree with your ethos people are very surprised what a set of decent tyres and standard old ninety can do, proven time and time again at the club days I havent quite got to this part of the diary yet, but I had the landy on my local rolling road before and after the acr head, it had 74bhp@4000 in stock trim, and 85bhp@4500 after. standard engine other than the head. it also had more torque over the entire rev range peaking at 123lbs. wont set the world on fire sure, but 15% increase in performance not too bad. if I slip the matching 2.8 short engine underneath, it will be in excess of 110bhp and 170lbs of torque
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Last Edit: Jan 2, 2013 18:10:31 GMT by darrenh
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Although i do prefer 110's that is one smart truck. And i do hope you had 'permission' to use the oven ....... ;D My missus went spare when she came in and found me and my mate using the over and hob to free off my old 110's brake calipers ........ however that was nothing compared to when she found the inlet manifold and twin SU's off its V8 in the dishwasher!!!! (came out luvvverlyyyy though)
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thanks for the comments mrbob, appreciate it, and agree with your ethos people are very surprised what a set of decent tyres and standard old ninety can do, proven time and time again at the club days I havent quite got to this part of the diary yet, but I had the landy on my local rolling road before and after the acr head, it had 74bhp@4000 in stock trim, and 85bhp@4500 after. standard engine other than the head. it also had more torque over the entire rev range peaking at 123lbs. wont set the world on fire sure, but 15% increase in performance not too bad. if I slip the matching 2.8 short engine underneath, it will be in excess of 110bhp and 170lbs of torque Couldn't agree more! I share with my old man a factory V8 90, that we've had in the family for around 20 years. It's on totally standard suspension, and time and again proven how *right* the factory setup is. Especially the CSW spec springs which are super soft and compliant. They're very encouraging figures you got from the 2.25. I'd like to think the rebuilt 2.5 with a cam, and a little headwork should be well on for 100BHP then. The torque figure's very encouraging too - 'only' 60 ft lbs down on a 200Tdi. I'd actually question how many old Tdi's really do generate the factory figures nowadys too! Look forward to seeing some more updates - although the moment I see any 'one life live it' stickers, suspension lift kits or any other such nonsense, I'll have to send The Boys 'round
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And I do hope you had 'permission' to use the oven ....... ;D haha, no permission sought, although it was the spare oven so atleast the chips don't taste of hammerite . I did use the dishwasher for the flywheel housing and rocker cover, came out lovely, but the dishwasher had black gunge everywhere, regret that ! I'd like to think the rebuilt 2.5 with a cam, and a little headwork should be well on for 100BHP then. I think yes the cam is definately very mild, roland says the cam swap is the real turning point for performance. and youll have plenty of swept capacity to play around with (as in wont miss a bit at low rpm) torque curve is astonishing on these engines as i'm sure you know
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Last Edit: Jan 2, 2013 19:53:45 GMT by darrenh
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