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Thought it was time to update this one. There's a long-running thread on the Daf Owners Club forum about it, but even non-Daf Nuts might enjoy a bit of news now and then The engine turned out to be seized far worse than I'd hoped. One barrel came off without too much trouble but the other one resisted this: and this: and this: before finally giving in to this: Obviously that meant a replacement barrel (and piston cos I cut too deep) but club members helped out and, on 15th Feb, we got to this: and this: Meanwhile, my partner had found time to do a bit of work on the carpet and interior: So I started on the underside, rear brakes and suspension. The only bit that needed anything other than cleaning and painting was one small hole in the driver's footwell: Which was soon turned into an ex-hole: With a lot of cursing and crawling round on my back the underside now looks like this: That's in a Dinitrol cavity wax finish for now, but will be overcoated with underbody wax when I get around to ordering some. The rear suspension and brake plumbing is also looking a little more MOT-friendly than it was: That meant that I really had to do something about the engine bay, because I can't finish the brakes until the master cylinder's refitted and i didn't want to fit that and then have to work round it (and the plumbing) to tidy up the paint under there. So the last couple of visits to the workshop have gone from this: to this: this: And finally this: We've also now got confirmation from the Club (for DVLA) that all her numbers match up and her registration is correct, so hopefully a V5 will be on its way to us in the next couple of weeks. It's starting to look possible again for our original plan to have her back on road by mid April
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Wouldn't even need the screen. And if you don't have the screen you don't need the wipers or washers either.
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Even Anglesey managed some this morning - thought we were going to miss out on playing with the Daf in it
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The Road Vehicles (Display of Registration Marks) 2001: For cars post 2001 the regs (section 6 instead of 7) are similar but include specific measurements for where it needs to be visible from. Unless you have a vertical screen, you're not going to be able to mount a plate vertically behind it so, assuming there's a place it can be mounted vertically (such as the bumber) then that's where it has to go. If you do manage to get it vertical behind the screen then you're going to fall foul of the C&U regs regarding driver visibility (basically the same as the MOT stuff about screen stickers / danglies from mirrors etc) There's also the small matter of it being attached "on the front" rather than "facing the front" - unless you have a very short bonnet, the windscreen is not "on the front"
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It's his risk, guys. It's almost impossible for an insurance policy to refuse to pay out 3rd party liabilities because the Road Traffic Act 1988 S.148(1) and (2) specifically over-rules any terms that claim to make insurance invalid for any of these reasons: Note that "the condition" (which even includes whether or not it has an MOT!) and "the horsepower or cylinder capacity" covers just about any mod you're likely to do, including engine swaps. On the other hand, they don't have to cover anything except the bare legal minimum (death, injury or property damage to third parties) under the law. Also, if there's a mod that they don't know about, they can (and most certainly will) take the driver to the cleaners to recover any money they pay out. That means if you have a parking bump, where the extra power wasn't a factor, they'll happily bankrupt you for it as soon as they see the engine swap. You'll also find it virtually impossible to get insurance in future because they will blacklist you. As they share more and more data, that's likely to spread to any insurance for anything - household / life / business - cos they really don't like people they see as insurance fraud risks
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Oh!!! Just got an email from Lancs County archives confirming that they still have the original registration record for this one. 15 quid gets me a certified copy which DVLA will accept for reclaiming the original registration! That's looking a lot less painful than we'd feared ;D
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I must admit I wasn't convinced by the lines when we got our 33 (same shape, later model) a couple of years ago but my partner adored it so I didn't really have a choice ;D It's a Michelloti design which goes well beside my Triumph 1300 and they're great fun little cars to run round in - our longest trip in the 33 was 720 miles in a day From the guy's description before we saw this one we hought it might be good as a parts car - apparently "the rust has started getting to it" - but it's obviously way too good for that now we've seen it! The plan is to clean eveything off, get it up and running, deal with the rust that;s there and give it a blow-over to match up the odd bits of paint it's had in the past. The colour is "Rubila" but there were two versions of that and it looks like the bits that have been done used the wrong one. We just have to find out which is the right one!
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Got a bit more pulling apart done today. Had an hour or so free so it went from this: to this: to this: Everything undid without problems, with the exception of one exhaust bolt that looks like it was rounded slightly when last fitted. I almost felt sorry for a certain fellow Daf owner who was also pulling his engine today and, apparently, took 6 hours on a car that's in daily use. Almost, but not quite ;D
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About 14 months ago, my partner Sian and I were asked by a complete stranger if we'd be interested in his Aunt's 1960s Daf. We were at a local show with our '72 Daf 33 so it wasn't quite such a random question as it sounds! He didn't want anything for it but it had been off road for about 40 years and he'd rather it was of use (even as parts) than scrapped when he moved house. Believe it or not, we were (very!) interested but, as time went on with no sign on it, we just about gave up hope. Then, last week, there were a couple of phonecalls and on Friday we found ourselves borrowing a trailer and tow-car and heading off from Anglesey to Barrow-in-Furness to pick up a car that we knew nothing about except that it was red and "still has it's Daffodil badge". What we found when we got there was this: The covering of soot (inside and out) was from a garage fire a couple of garages down so, while it looked bad and made the car nasty to push around, it was nothing really serious. Having dragged it out, on 4 flat tyres and seized back brakes, we got to see the interior: How 60s is that? Optional add-on (for the UK market only) wood dash, red seats ans two-tone red & white door trims! The engine is very tight but (I think) not quite seized solid - it moved a fraction using the starter handle but I'm not going to push it until the bores have had a damn good soaking. Other than that, a non-existent footbrake and 4 dead tyres (they hold air but they're never going on road again!) I can't find anything that would stop it passing an MOT as it is! Even the paintwork came up pretty well after the typcal Anglesey rain got to it: She's now safely tucked away in my workshop with the soot being cleared and bits coming off at a rapid rate, with the hope of having her properly tidied and back on road for our first show of the year next May: She was formerly known as Bessie but we've renamed her Matilda by the way ;D
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Last Edit: Nov 2, 2010 0:15:52 GMT by HARDCORE
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why not? its not a woman, it wont tell you how the other owner treated it! lol Yes it will, by the condition it's in! The difference is, if they've treated it well you'll reap the benefits with a car whereas a woman will try to make you feel inadequate. If they've treated it badly, on the other hand, you get the pleasure of seeing it regain what it's lost. Unless it's turned into a complete basket case, of course, but a lot of women do that as well ;D As for the OP, it really depends on the car itself and whether it was one you loved or "just transport". Out of the cars I've owned there are probably 4 that I'd have back like a shot (sadly, all scrapped by now). I moved them on for one reason or another (that I also don't remember) and don't / didn't regret it cos the reasons were what they were at the time. The rest were just transport that I used and abused and might have another the same but wouldn't go out of my way to. So, if it was a particular favourite and it's not coming back as a basket case, I'd say go for it!
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Oct 18, 2010 13:19:30 GMT
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I've got one, it's pretty good for what it is but not very flexible with only 2 power settings. That said, the wire feed seems reliable (but I might have been lucky on that) and the low setting copes happily enough with body panel thickness on our Daf and Triumph (mostly 1mm sheet). One other advantage with gasless, btw, is it copes better with any odd rusty bits where you're welding. Obviously, we all always cut back to completely clean metal so it's no advantage really but there are the odd times where you might not be able to. The flux and extra heat tends to float or burn all the curse word off the metal ahead of where you're welding which is a big help! I've just had it out this morning to glue a rusted and snapped Daf exhaust back together and it was fine (although not exactly neat) on that, with nothing more than a quick wire brush before starting!
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All mig are basically point & shoot. The problems people find with gasless are that it tends to be hotter (so more risk of burning through), it's harder to watch the weld pool because you get smoke around the arc from the flux (practice helps), the weld it leaves isn't as neat and even (although it grinds up perfectly well) and it deposits a thin layer of slag on top of the weld (which comes off easily with a wire brush). Oh, and the wire costs more. The extra heat really isn't a big problem if you pay attention to what you're doing and you're not already used to mig: It's a good idea to run tacks of about 3/4 inch rather than trying for a continuous seam to keep the heat down. Do one, then another on the opposite side of the patch, then one in between the two, and so on until they join up (that's pretty good practice anyway to help avoid distortion). Before you start doing the ones that will actually meet existing welds, wire-brush the ones you've already done to get rid of the slag layer. As a general rule do NOT run a gassless weld "pushing" the arc - with gas you normally weld with the tip pof the torch pointing slightly in the direction you're welding so that you blow the shield gas ahead of yourself. With gassless, reverse that and "drag" the dip so it's pointing back at the weld you've already made like you would with a stick welder. The extra metal there helps to carry heat away and prevent burn through. Oh, and don't try nice, inset butt joints at least to start with. For stuff like your inner wings plates will be fine if you make sure you're back to sound metal and do them neatly. The extra layer of metal helps a lot in dealing with the extra heat. You can't see the weld pool but you can tell what the arc's like by sound and you should be able to see well enough to follow the joint. A good gasless weld isn't as neat as a good mig weld but there are alot of not-so-good mig welds out there that look fine in areas like underbonnet. If it's more visible than that then the appearance of the weld itself shouldn't really matter because you'd be grinding it flush afterwards anyway Once you're finished give it a good wire-rushing to remove the slag layer (thin black coating that forms). Takes all of an extra minute or two, that you'll probably save by not having to carry a gas bottle back into the flat I guess what I'm saying is that, despite almost everything out there on the Net, gassless mig is ok for basic MOT type welding (which seems to be what you need right now) and can/i] be used (with lots of practice) for fancier stuff, although gas is better for that.
Maybe look at a gas / gassless one so you have the best of both - gassless for now to get the thing on the road and you can always switch to gas as and when it suits you? In terms of price there's not a huge difference between a starter gas mig and an equivalent dual purpose and it's always handy to have gassless available for those days when you need to get an MOT patch on outside and it's blowing a gale
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Oct 16, 2010 20:57:30 GMT
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whats the deal with gasless ones? wibblepoo? If you learn on "proper" mig then you'll hate them. On the other hand, if (like me) you learnt on stick then they do the job fine. They're not as neat as a good gas mig (although if you want really neat and don't mind the cost then go oxy!) and the wire is more expensive but: If you haven't already learnt a "gas" technique then they're quick and easy enough to pick up. The extra cost of wire will be more than offset by the cost of gas if you're not using it much - 3 mini-reels off EBay for about 18 quid has kept me going with 2 Dafs and a Triumph for the past 5 MOTs. They are much nicer than gas mig if you're using them outside with any sort of wind around, unless you want to spend as long setting up wind screens as you do welding! At the end of the day, if you can weld you can weld to "MOT standard"* with just about anything - even a couple of leads, some stick electrodes and a car battery or two. * as in continuous, strong enough, but not necessarily pretty
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Sept 20, 2010 12:27:46 GMT
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Sounds like you're sorted this time but, for future, it's well worth bookmarking these guys: www.brakeparts.co.uk/You can search by model rather than reg and they have plenty of Mk 2 Escort stuff listed (shoes, cylinders, drums, springs etc)
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Jul 24, 2010 20:51:05 GMT
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Still registered as PLG by the look of it, but it'd go tax-free historic if someone saved it!
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yeah, my peugeot 106 rally car failed an mot even though it had a genuine peugeot groupN exhaust which was completely "construction and use" and TUV certified.... (all of this information was stamped on a visible shiny plate on the exhaust too!!) - not to mention it is barely loud at all compared to most cars. . That'd be RFR 7.1.2.b: Note that : (a) it doesn't matter whether the silencer is TUV marked, or marked in any other way come to that. The comparison is with what would be expected from a standard system. (b) it's a subjective test, so different testers will have different opinions. Having an MOT based on the subjective opinion of a particular tester doesn't make any difference if VOSA do a spot noise check, because they use objective measurements plus it may not be the exhaust that was fitted at the time of the test
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Jul 23, 2010 14:43:11 GMT
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It's not really VOSA checks you need to worry about. If he's involved in an accident and there's a non type-approved part fitted to a car requiring type approval, guess who's insurers will be wriggling out of paying?
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Jul 22, 2010 17:02:16 GMT
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Totally agree - you should always be careful when working with sharp tools! In fact, had I known he was working round there I would have felt duty bound to mention the risk before it happened ;D
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Jul 22, 2010 16:58:50 GMT
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It isn't as simple as it used to be, new DEFRA/eec regs came into force this month prohibiting anyone but a certified MACS (mobile air-conditioning system) technician from working on aircon so to remain legal you should get someone to degas and disconnect the pipes for you. after that, you can just remove it all yourself. Given that the OP is planning on removing completely rather than repairing, didn't all the gas already escape when that pipe burst after he accidentally caught it with a hacksaw / grinder / insert sharp tool of choice?
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Jul 22, 2010 13:59:17 GMT
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The DS solution according to the Daf factory manual is to slot the holes to get the required camber then seam weld individual big washers in place to make them round again. Can't see why it would be a problem doing the same on other makes?
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