|
|
|
Brennon I don't use the same DA, but I have just checked the speed ratings on both machines and it looks like you could use the polishing machine to DA sand the body as well, as it has a variable speed control This is the DA that I use for polishing, the Meguirs G220, its not as aggressive as a standard rotary polisher, used together with the Speedglaze its good for getting rid of swirl marks, and producing a really good finish, I guess you could use it after the sanding but it will take longer than the rotary polisher But I use a traditional rotary polisher first, after the sanding, a bit like this But you have to be careful when sanding or buffing paintwork as its all to easy to sand or buff through the paint, and then your in trouble, especially on the edges and corners
|
|
Last Edit: Mar 9, 2011 19:44:48 GMT by tonybmw
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ha ha, just like an angry wasp
Excellent and simple explanation re how the electronics works
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mark Thats the last panel done now, but the sequence I use is this I block sand the paintwork with 1200 or 1500 grit wet and dry to get any orange peel or bits out of the paintwork Then go over that with 1500 or 2000 grit DA discs, this removes the wet and dry marks Then Machine polish with Farecla G3 Then Machine polish with Farecla G10 Then DA polish with Meguires Speed Glaze Then wax polish Then stand back and admire very jealous of the equipment and materials you have! I wish I had just a compressor man enough to run something like a DA beautiful work, real hats off to you! Brennon its an electric DA so no compressor needed
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Got the bonnet all bulit up today with the rubbers and trims and badges, and polished the glass Stripped off the Pitman arm as well, to find that the bush is a separate part and not included in the pitman arm, DOH, so will have to order that now as well
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Can you post a step-by-step next panel you do please Tony? I'm determined to get the TWR to the same standard. Mark Thats the last panel done now, but the sequence I use is this I block sand the paintwork with 1200 or 1500 grit wet and dry to get any orange peel or bits out of the paintwork Then go over that with 1500 or 2000 grit DA discs, this removes the wet and dry marks Then Machine polish with Farecla G3 Then Machine polish with Farecla G10 Then DA polish with Meguires Speed Glaze Then wax polish Then stand back and admire
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
awesome! . . don't like the E34 wheels on there . . but the rest is just how it should be . . The wheels were a cheap way to get it onto 16's, the wheels of choice are either some period BBS's or Alpina's,
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I like that, and have to agree looks just right with those BBS's
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ahh, Thanks or that, every day is a school day! I am right this one isnt yours is it, the silver one is? I guess the silver one is on hold until the gold one is done. I do love old bms, having just bought an E36 as a daily driver as a project is currently out of the question. Mot'd and finished in the next week then Tony! Should not be far off, busy getting some new trims made for the boot and the MOT and then just a really good detailing and that should be it No this cars not mine unfortunately, the silver one is waiting in the background along with the 2 x Blue ones I have as well,
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
BMW Heritage have recently built a 2002 with all new components, so everything is available at a price which is a damn site better than most manufacturers who only stock for 10 years in reality. Tony, great work and to only fail on two minor items must be prety satisfying as well as slightly annoying at the same time! Excuse my ignorance, but what is a pitman arm? Iand, you are right it was both annoying and pleasing, just would have been better if it had failed on something that I had the spare part for, to be honest the washer jet was playing up when I set it up, but I was sure that no one would fail it just for that I did not know that it was called a Pitman arm until I tried to order one, these cars have steering boxes, and this is part of the complicated linkage system that they need, part number 9 on the following pic
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Looks like a giant OSI Jigsaw, with some of the bits missing, superb progress Dave
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Welcome from me too, now that looks like a very Clean E30
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
This pumps my nads, really nice work fella Glad you like it Beemerlad, it really coming together now, Spent most of today flattening and polishing the bonnet, have to say its come up rather nicely and an outdoor shot after jet washing the polishing compound off from everywhere Went to the dealers today and ordered a new Pitman arm, thats the good thing about BMW, they have a really good parts back up service even for the older cars, it has to come from Germany, but should be here in 3-4 days, and cost was £31 inc vat, so not worth messing round with a used one
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I do like the look of that, and keeping it BMW gets my vote too
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hoooray for the welding 3.5 and manual box gets my vote
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Let us know the results of your test, and glad to hear that you are re motivated, can anyone else shed any light or had any experience with the stainless to mild steel scenario ??
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
No pics today, but just a short update Car was in for MOT today and failed But it was not too bad, failed on a blocked washer jet and a steering pitman arm bush was worn So all in all not too bad considering its been standing around for a least a year
|
|
Last Edit: Mar 4, 2011 20:29:42 GMT by tonybmw
|
|
|
|
|
Not sure with this one, I was always lead to believe that it was not a good thing to weld stainless to mild steel, for several reasons 1 It causes the mild steel to become a sacrificial metal and it will rust more than it normally would 2 Stainless work hardens much more quickly than mild steel and will therefore crack and fail, quite often at the welded joint 3 Unless a dissimilar metal welding rod is used, the weld can be quite porous and therefore weak again But before I responded to this I read the following article on an official looking stainless steel website that seems to suggest that the above points are not a problem www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=101Personally I would not do it, but I think that might just be from an old fashioned outdated viewpoint
|
|
Last Edit: Mar 4, 2011 19:41:46 GMT by tonybmw
|
|
|
|
|
Excellent attention to detail, when its finished it will be difficult to tell whats original and whats not
|
|
|
|
|