sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 14, 2014 22:13:26 GMT
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I found this a little while ago, I think it gives a pretty good explanation of how the geometry affects the characteristics of the car linkBeing that I'm thinking along the lines of making completely new upper arms and the mounting points, I have the opportunity to build in some adjustability to experiment with
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 14, 2014 21:23:54 GMT
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Much like
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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COOOORvair lowrider! [pics]sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Aug 14, 2014 21:15:29 GMT
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Wow that's cool, looks like a supersized Imp!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 14, 2014 20:52:18 GMT
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If that's your man who builds the pumps for Black Smoke Racing, then I like your thinking With a good reputation and lots of happy customers posting videos over Youtube, he's my first choice This evening I decided to jack up the back end and have a look at the mounting of the back axle What I have noticed is that the diff nose oscillates as the suspension goes up and down, and on full drop points the diff up and the upper arms down at a stupid angle. Admittedly the dampers have been removed but it's only an extra inch or so beyond maximum down travel, but still, far too much. This has got me thinking, the lower arms appear to be fine apart from the visible surface rust and also locate the springs so I'm thinking of retaining them, probably reinforcing them with some extra metal. That leaves the upper mounts which are a known weak point. What is on my mind is fabricating a pair of new upper arms, but having them either side of the diff casing and running forwards to the tunnel where the original diff nose mount crossmember was fitted. There is plenty of room in that area either side of the top of the diff into the sides of the tunnel. So the early planning is to add some anti-squat geometry to the back axle, I think it would be cool for the to lift under power, and be a fun little fabrication project Lots of measuring, thinking, designing and drawing is in order now to see how feasible my plans are...
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Massey Assassin [pics]sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Aug 14, 2014 11:38:20 GMT
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Why did I not click the link last night! Most insane thing I've seen so far this year
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 13, 2014 21:36:57 GMT
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You sir, are quite mad. That is all. Love it! The madness keeps my sanity A 5 pot turbo and super charged diesel Rover P6? It's doesn't get any more chock full of win IMHO! Awesome project! They are an underrated project car, loads of room underneath for uprating the running gear, and there is quite a bit of room up front that can be filled with engine, I do wonder why there aren't more modded ones about while they are still cheap? Loving this, and loving your approach as always you talented git I'm still in the early stages of compounding my isuzu. I have an M45 for it but I reckon its too small (1.7 engine) (I had intended to get an M62) planning on parting with it? (Although, no cash right now.....) Really cant wait to see this rocking and learn from your experience I did a lot of research into compounding diesels, and my brother beat me to getting one on the road. I drove his supercharged Land Rover once, it confirmed what we thought, it's almost a no-brainer! The M62 is presently partly dismantled, I was looking into fitting an M45 snout onto it and maybe fitting that to something else... When the time comes sowen , I have a very good diesel shop. I don't trust or let anyone else do our injection equipment work This is shaping up to be tremendous! I've been thinking of sending one of my spare pumps off to Dieselmeken as he's got a good reputation with the Bosch inline pumps and lots of happy customers. I've recently heard of a UK company that claim to be able to build high output injection pumps, but not found any customer reviews yet? Surprised I've never seen this. Just, wow. There are some seriously talented engineers around this place, and you clearly are one of them. Love the understated look as well. Cheers, plan is to keep the outside fairly stock looking, quite simply I have no interest in the bodywork on this one, just make it drive and go fast in a straight line! I don't want to hack up any of the existing bodywork as it's actually pretty straight though crusty in the corners, so the donor cars bonnet will be making it's way over shortly for hole cutting duties! For the gearbox, I was still planning at the time to be fitting the OM605 into a Land Rover, so using a spare R380 gearbox I started to line it up and take measurements I needed a bellhousing to join the two together, as I'd not seen another conversion like this before I decided to start making as many different variations as possible but the one that has progressed with this build came from a chance spot on another forum. It turns out the Ssangyong Musso with the Mercedes diesel came with a Borg Warner T5 gearbox, and vaguely knowing what T5's looked like, it sounded ideal. More hunting and I scored a complete T5 gearbox I did look into using the T5, but with it's physical size and this particular variants questionable strength I went back to the original plan of using the bellhousing with the R380 gearbox. With a little trimming for the clutch pivot boss on the front cover, they slid together To help align the gearbox, the engine was lifted onto the crankshaft nose and work began to join the two together Some aluminium adapter plates were made and bolted between the two and the complete gearbox bolted to the engine Another lucky spot on a different forum was of a more suitable rear bowl sump and oil pump compared to the awkwardly positioned front bowl sump as standard on the Mercedes OM60x engines. I bought two as by this point I'd got the OM606 running in my Land Rover and had clearance issues with the sump to the front axle. They both came from early 2000's Mercedes OM647 and OM648 CDi engines So off with the front bowl sump to access the old oil pump The CDi oil pump slotted onto the drivechain and bolted straight up, just needs some screw threads drilling into some of the main bearing cap bolts to hold the pick-up tube to finish The rear bowl sump then bolted straight on once the dipstick had been pushed out of the way It all needs little jobs to finish off, but the principle issues of getting the OM605 to fit the P6 engine bay have almost all been overcome now. I have the mounts to fabricate, and general adjustments to the ancillaries to get them to fit and compliment their new home. The cherry on top was that my two-piece propshaft I'd bought from a Jaguar series 3 saloon fits happily between the gearbox and Scimitar axle, so it looks like no expensive custom propshafts need to be made either
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 13, 2014 11:47:19 GMT
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Excellent
Good to see stuffs happening, even if it's all coming apart!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1975 CF Bedford SWB trucksowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Aug 13, 2014 11:34:53 GMT
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Love CF's, and a big 6 looks cool! Keep it up
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Holy curse word! 1st. I never realised how much like an overhead cam engine a mechanical fuel pump was. 2nd. Thats a big snail! 3rd Thats a nice combo you stuck together. What output would you expect there?? 300?? The old Bosch inline pumps are big chunky beasts, and have a big complex governor on the back to ruin . I predict bhp will be somewhere in the region of 200-250 going by what I've done so far and general internet consensus of what the injection pump can produce with the 6mm pump elements. Goal will be somewhere around 350-400 with torque through the roof, the engine itself in theory should handle that power, and the combined turbo and supercharger should feed enough air for that. The only restriction I foresee is the injection pump which I have plans to send a spare off for professional modifications, and the rest of the drivetrain not coping!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 12, 2014 21:48:21 GMT
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Using the original electronic pump for parts and practicing taking the pump apart, I got the pump elements out of it, which are 6mm internal diameter against the earlier mechanical pump elements which are 5.5mm diameter. In theory swapping them over should give a small rise in power, downside is they are precision parts and require calibrating in the new pump body. I have decided to skip the calibration for now, instead I've got another pump which I intend to have professionally built with much larger fuel delivery elements once the Mercedes engine hits the road and I am ready for it. Swapping the elements is really fiddly, difficult and time consuming! The mechanical pump governer was opened up to see how it worked, then removed to get full access to the main pump body Then onto dismantling the main pump body The pump went back on and the engine started up again, this time puffed a bit of black smoke right from cold and revved better Doing my research it looked like the Holset would create far too much lag, and only having a n/a injection pump I don't have any control over off boost fueling. The solution is more air! Using a spare Eaton M62 supercharger, I made a simple bracket to hang it off the side to establish where it would fit, and obviously had to fire it up again! Doing some number crunching and testing with a boost gauge, the Eaton M62 didn't really seem to be big enough, so a quick upgrade to an Eaton M90 was in order! Much better! The Eaton M90 fits better as well as sounding better, so my thoughts began to wander onto mounting it onto a Land Rover gearbox. A solid flywheel from an 80's Mercedes 230 turned up locally, and was cleaned up and fitted Gearbox adapter next...
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 12, 2014 21:08:20 GMT
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 11, 2014 21:23:20 GMT
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I want to avoid doing any modifications to the shell, and drill as few holes into it as possible, keep well within the vehicle identity system
90% of the wagons on this forum fall foul of the 'unmodified body/chassis', adding extra strength where needed in a modified car seems sensible.
Great project & engineering skills!
Yep, my other P6 falls well into the 90%! It's a challenge as much as anything, cutting up the shell is lazy, so adapting what I get my hands on to fit is far more of a challenge. Obviously some parts will require strengthening, if I can get the whole car in an almost finished driveable state then adding more strength in the critical areas is the neatest solution I can think of. I had something a little special lying around..... I think I should
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Have you looked at the Irish rally P6 then? They've used a complete narrowed Jaguar IRS unit I think in a custom cradle, very good write up too
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 10, 2014 16:52:38 GMT
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I think its an inspired job uprating the drive line like that its something ive hoped to see being done One thing i note with the axle fitment is that will the upper links be ok under compression load when launching on stickies just with it being a rod albeit relatively thick, it might become unstable and collapse which would be grossly disheartening in the least! Very good point, something I haven't as of yet put much thought into. The current plan is to get the axle mounted using the original suspension arms and mounting points, simply making it a bolt in swap into a standard car, then look at the existing suspension arms and uprating/replacing in the future. I know the boot floor mounts are a weak point and are likely to tear themselves out entirely, and on my other P6 I boxed them in. I want to avoid doing any modifications to the shell, and drill as few holes into it as possible, keep well within the vehicle identity system I also hope more people start taking an interest in these old barges and doing some serious engineering to them. Maybe somebody will be inspired and get building...
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 10, 2014 12:20:14 GMT
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I think you'll be after XJ40 stuff, at least the outer hubs and driveshafts if you already have a diff, and depends on how you want to fit it all in, entire Jaguar suspension or retain the Rover suspension?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Thanks for the comments It's been on my mind for such a long time to put a live axle under the back of a P6 and no-one else has done it yet, so I may as well do it myself! Looking good! Do you know how to change the amount of lock in the Jag diff? I've go the 4HU Power lock in my TVR, but it stock and not adjusted to a car approx. half the weight of the donor. It makes for some very interesting moments, especially on gravel You can re-stack the friction plates to give more or less friction. They are mixed internal spline and external tab, so you should be able to swap some of them round to put two or three identical plates together depending on how they've already been stacked. On the diff I fitted to this P6 it had two internally splined plates together, I was tempted to fit one of the tabbed plates between to get more lock but left it pending road testing.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1968 Mercedes 280SE (W108)sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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That is such a glorious car, really classy and a worthy successor to the Daimler
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Lambda sensor thread size?sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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I think they should be M18x1.5, I used an old aircraft spark plug to fill some up in the past
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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LDV gearbox , XUD9 TD clutch?sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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To be honest I think there are a lot of factors that would dictate which would be most suitable to pursue. One of the main factors is your driving style. Surface area, pressure plate pressure, heat dissipation are all notable factors
My personal opinion would be go with what you've got, if it isn't upto the job you'll know pretty quick then can upgrade.
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