|
|
Mar 26, 2012 17:35:52 GMT
|
My sister's ka ran for yonks with no fluid in due to the steering rack leaking. Eventually she got a rack fitted and it was fine.
Kas seem to froth the fluid up and airlock if it's low, which sort of fakes a high level. Maybe try adding more fluid (til its brimmed) put the cap back on, turn the engine on and off and cycle the steering a few times before brimming it again and doing whole thing again. Both my mums and sisters ka too a load more oil this way which "bled" them out and got the steering quietened down for a while.
|
|
Last Edit: Mar 26, 2012 17:37:14 GMT by cobblers
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2012 11:12:57 GMT
|
As you are, it works out at 4.8kw output, which is nothing to sniff at, especially seeing as this was measured in a very lossy system. I'd guess that once you insulate everything, you'll get a good bit more useful heat from it.
Are you going to keep such a large reservoir for the final system? I'd personally want to try and minimize the amount of water in the "active" circuit - probably just have the volume of the radiator, pipes and water chamber on the fire.
Of course you'll need a few gallons as "head" but kept out of the circuit. Maybe have a tap to switch over from "immediate heat" to warming the whole reservoir as well, to allow you to quickly warm the room up, then with the fire still burning fiercely store some heat to keep you warm for a few hours, and to avoid boiling. You could even fit a TRV on the radiator to make this more or less automatic.
Like a lot of people, I was expecting this to be a bit of a smoky old beast like my mates gas bottle heater is until it gets going properly, but you've obviously been a bit smarter than we have with the construction.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2012 11:17:20 GMT
|
Nice one dez!
Would it take a lot to raise the back up a gnats? I know I'm teaching my granny to suck eggs here but it's easy to get carried away with "the ground is the limit" and end up with the thing not quite sitting right.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2012 20:04:47 GMT
|
Just looking through the receipts, it seems these are only a few years old!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2012 19:51:55 GMT
|
The earth lead is fine the same as it was - it's still essentially the same length (the shell of the car is essentially zero resistance)
The reason you need to make the positive lead thicker is because it's so much longer - If it was the same diameter as before the voltage drop would be quite high and the starter would be weak. The thicker wire (with less resistance per foot) makes up for the extra length.
There is no harm in upgrading your earth cables. That bloke has an oversimplified understanding of electronics - He'll get by OK, but that's really not how it works in practice.
Also, there is no such thing as "wire that is too thick". Thicker wire of the same metal is always electrically better, Until you start sending high frequency signals down it, but that's another matter.
|
|
Last Edit: Mar 22, 2012 19:53:13 GMT by cobblers
|
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2012 16:03:12 GMT
|
stuff it with paper and set it on fire. Just fill it with water and empty it out, that way you don't end up with a tank full of ash and a potential eyebrow loss.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2012 11:51:30 GMT
|
Oh, I forgot about my old Lupo (first VW fitted with Renault Alpine turbines on that I'm aware of) This was October 2008. Christ, time flies!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Removed these from the 1996 Mk3 Gti I broke. First set I've had where the handbrake worked freely on both. I've got the carriers off too, so they can be fitted to a mk2 gti. Come with a decent set of pads, too. Sold, Ta very much!
|
|
Last Edit: Mar 23, 2012 11:26:07 GMT by cobblers
|
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2012 13:47:56 GMT
|
|
|
Last Edit: Mar 21, 2012 13:48:59 GMT by cobblers
|
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2012 13:44:23 GMT
|
It can be done . I was once reading a companies website where they had fixed a wheel that was buckled and had about 5" missing from the inner lip. Can't find it now though!
I was talking with the lads at the place where I get my tyres fitted, and a rep came along trying to sell them the equipment to straighten wheel, apparently it was basically just a jig that allowed them to lever on the wheel after heating it.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2012 12:15:04 GMT
|
If you can't get 24 volt bulbs, it's not a problem, just wire the two 12v bulbs in series. You'll lose them both if one bulb goes, though.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2012 17:58:35 GMT
|
I'm sure nobody has ever seen an old VW van wearing Porsche wheels. Nevertheless, I enjoy the fact that they are usually fitted to something beautiful and flowy and elegant, but I've fitted them to something about as elegant as Dawn French falling down a fire escape after a couple of bottles of wine.
|
|
Last Edit: Mar 20, 2012 18:00:26 GMT by cobblers
|
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2012 16:00:09 GMT
|
Tell me about it with the loom, We had the same problem last time when stripping a golf for Jons van. I'd hate to have to do the job "non destructively" when you can't just swing on bits of dashboard until they come off and then throw them over your shoulder.
Not really got any updates, I've been busy outing the Golf parts - Needed to recoup the money, cos I skinted myself buying all the stuff in one hit.
I've broke even on the golf now, which is nice. There's still about £100 of stuff to sell, too.
To save having my van stuck on Jons drive for longer than necessary, I'm going to get the whole engine built up ready to drop in, mounts on it etc etc. with the wiring loom all stripped back and ready to just connect the ground, ignition and starter feed to the t25 fusebox and then start the engine up briefly on the deck to make sure it's all OK, before removing the 2.1 from the van. Can't wait to get it fitted - I'm still umming and aahing over whether to keep my AAP 5 speed, or go to 1.6d 4 speed for shorter ratios.
The 4 speed box needs some oil seals changing (the drive flanges leak gearbox oil into the CV boots!) and the linkages look very different to the 5 speed ones, so I may just stick with the AAP 5 speed box for now.
I'm keeping an eye out for some stainless exhaust boxes/pipes, but to start with I'm probably going to run with the scabby old diesel back box, or perhaps the one off my 2.1 if it fits.
|
|
Last Edit: Mar 20, 2012 16:01:19 GMT by cobblers
|
|
|
|
|
I've got a couple of these I saved for my own motors. They clip in place of the fore/aft shift rod on most rod change VW's of the mk2/mk3 golf era and give a nice satisfying weighted throw to the gearchange. Dead easy to fit. £8 including post.
|
|
Last Edit: Mar 20, 2012 9:34:59 GMT by cobblers
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2012 18:42:48 GMT
|
The block and crank on the gearbox in sump A serieses is different to the longditudinal ones, so I don't think you'd be able to put the engine in the Minor without quite a bit of work.
Doh, missed the bit about marina block and crank. Ignore me, I'm an idiot!
|
|
Last Edit: Mar 19, 2012 18:48:16 GMT by cobblers
|
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2012 17:22:21 GMT
|
bump
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2012 15:30:22 GMT
|
I tried the proboards app, it was absolutely lousy and the email notifications still opened up the normal forum anyway, which works fine on Safari.
The only advantage to using the Proboards app is that you don't get the nagging dialog popping up advertising the proboards app!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2012 14:08:56 GMT
|
That does a real neat job for something so simple.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
That's dead handy!
Perhaps add a tab of steel inside as a "stop" so you can just push the end of the pipe up to it and it keeps you lined up as you go round?
|
|
|
|