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Dec 29, 2014 13:54:44 GMT
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The AGG definitely has a crank sensor which is uses for most stuff, and will run but throw a wobbler (5k rev limit, reduced timing advance etc etc) if the dizzy sensor is unplugged or not quite timed right, but it won't run at all without the crank signal.
2E relies entirely on the dizzy and has no crank sensor or even anywhere to fit one.
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Dec 27, 2014 13:15:06 GMT
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The crank sensor is a swine to change so hope it isn't that. No spark means it could be that though. Coilpacks are a common issue and easy to change and fairly inexpensive, they are also common over a HUGE range of VAG and other stuff so there's good odds you could borrow one.
Does the fuel pump prime and then start pumping again when you turn the engine over? What year is it? if it has the later AGG engine (which it should have if it has a crank sensor) then you should really get it on VAGCOM and check to see if it shows anything in the "engine RPM" bit when you turn the engine over.
I had a break in the wiring for my crank sensor (loom side, next to the plug) which gave this fault. Van ran fine, did thousands of miles and then one day just cut out after changing into 2nd gear and wouldn't re start.
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Dec 21, 2014 22:36:26 GMT
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No worries man!
I fart about with lead batteries a lot in my line of work. Parallel connection causes no issues unless one of the batteries is in a very bad way. Series is where you have problems generally, especially if they are charged in series, even a slight imbalance will quickly kill the worse of the two batteries.
In parallel, if one of them ends up with one (or more) bad cells rather than just general overall deterioration, 12.6v or so settled voltage on the good battery will be enough to pump a bit of charge into the remaining good cells of the bad battery, and waste most of the energy in the bad cell or boiling the rest away depending on how it has failed.
Like I say, It totally can happen, but it's not really the normal way a battery will fail, unless it is abused. I suppose in this case, where they are heavily overcharged it's a possibility, but the overcharge definitely needs to be looked into before any new batteries are introduced!
For context and an uninteresting story I've got a shed full of old scrap , more or less untested (other than looking for explosions or bulges) batteries all blindly paralleled up as my workshop power supply and have done for yonks. I can leave it for weeks without seeing the voltage drop appreciably between charges. Occasionally I will disconnect them and drop test a few and bin the absolute worst if I'm doing a scrap run, so there has probably been a dozen in turnover or more, but nothing has ever drained the rest of them.
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Dec 21, 2014 16:23:46 GMT
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One bad battery won't be causing your alternator to overcharge them both to 16V, so you absolutely definitely have a charging problem unrelated to the batteries.
16v on the batteries for any appreciable amount of time will undoubtedly have done some damage. If they are serviceable, check the level of electrolyte in them both and top up with distilled water.
Charge both batteries with a workshop charger until it says they are full, then put a fixed load like a headlamp bulb on there for ten minutes. Leave the battery to rest for a minute then read the voltage. 12.2 or less is bad, any more is varying levels of OK up to 12.+7 where you have a reasonably good battery.
Having two batteries in parallel, one of which being tired out won't usually drain the good battery, you simply lose the extra capacity of the second battery.
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Dec 21, 2014 13:48:55 GMT
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16v is too much, way too much - your alternator is overcharging the batteries and boiling them dry. Is there a sulphurous smell around them?
14.8v is really as high as you ever want to see on the battery terminals.
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Dec 20, 2014 22:10:44 GMT
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Basically, when VW made the system they spent a lot of time changing the sizes and design of boxes to make sure there wasn't any resonances at certain RPMs etc, but the custom exhaust guys just look at a gap and pick a box off the shelf to fit the hole. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes not. Usually a turbo (especially on a diesel) will mean you can get away with murder because it cuts the tops off of the individual pulses, but it seems like you've been unlucky in this case The tailpipe design can make a difference, but the science behind it is really dependent on so many factors that it's as much of an art as anything. Twin tailpipes from a single box shouldn't really cause any issues in themselves, as people have mentioned, try blocking one of them up to see if it helps. It sounds as though you have just got unlucky with the particular combination of resonant frequency and the rest of the exhaust. My Mk3 Golf 1.9d (no turbo!) had essentially no back box at all for over a year: it was not at all intrusive or boomy, in fact the only thing that gave me cause to even check it was the fact that the back passenger wheel was always black with soot and I thought the brakes might be binding.
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Last Edit: Dec 20, 2014 22:11:26 GMT by cobblers
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Oct 26, 2014 21:39:31 GMT
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Fuel purge? I assume you mean the EVAP valve? Not sure why you'd want to get rid of it, but you can get rid of the rest of the pipeage stuff and just keep the valve itself plugged in, the ECU won't know any better.
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Oct 21, 2014 20:14:10 GMT
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DANGER DANGER! HIGH VOLTAGE!
Those spacers are an absolute liability. You lose a massive amount of contact area on the hub, and what you do have is soft compressible ally. Plus you won't be able to tighten the "studs" up properly so they won't sit even. And, there's no hub location. They are a disaster waiting to happen and will end up getting all spacers/adapters banned one day.
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Oct 18, 2014 20:34:35 GMT
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Oct 17, 2014 22:06:53 GMT
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Don't involve the insurance company. Even with a protected NCB, you would still have a "claim or accident in the last 5 years" so it'll bump up your premium plenty.
Leave the disklok on, change the locks if you want peace of mind. A disklok is a lot more effort to shift than any number of tibbe locks so even if someone does work out a key they are in trouble.
Even if your granny is a cosworth one, it's not really the type of car that is stolen by someone going prepared like this. I would probably assume some pillocks were trying to chug your fuel rather than copy a key to drive it away.
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Last Edit: Oct 17, 2014 22:10:48 GMT by cobblers
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Oct 16, 2014 21:04:13 GMT
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Thought about the immobilizer? Stock immo on that vw would allow it to start for a couple of seconds, then cut out. Is it heavy on fuel? these regularly need coolant temp sensors, and will flood the plugs and not start because they think it's freezing cold, and it's not. If you can get it on VAG COM or something check that the coolant temp seems reasonable. The sensor is only about a fiver though.
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It's time to shift on my 106 GTi, I've owned it for a couple of months and while it's a load of fun to razz to work and back in, I was in a position to get something a bit fancier and I've bought myself an Ibiza Cupra turbo thing. 200bhp and it doesn't feel anywhere near as quick or as fun as this! Anyway, I digress. It drives fine, goes bloody well and there's nowt particularly wrong with the mechanicals, everything works as it should, including the ABS. Mileage is 100500. I will include a video of the mileage ticking over to 100,000 miles to the lucky buyer. This is the 1.6 16v, about 125/130bhp or whatever. There's about 10 months MOT on it. I've put a new clutch and crank seal etc on it about 500 miles ago, along with a thermostat and some £22 wiper blades. Turns out the clutch I took off was brand new and the release bearing was just wedging on the guide tube causing it to not disengage properly, but I had all the bits so I put them on. The bodywork is not amazing, it's a ten footer I would say. It could do with a good polish but cleaning cars is not my thing, it wouldn't come up perfect mind. The passenger wing is a pattern replacement and is rotten from the inside, and the drivers rear quarter has a bit of a rattlecan effort repair or something. Included are a full set of china blue panels and bumpers if you want them, but I dropped the drivers door and it's fuct. Inside it's pretty good nick (cloth). It smells like a Peugeot, the speedo under reads 5% but it does have proper remote central locking fitted by me to replace the wanky IR system these come with. The electric windows both work, and the PAS pump seems fine and doesn't sound at all like a dremel so it's got years left in it yet. Like all of these by now it's got a pipercross cone filter on it, and I put a brand new (£380 RRP!!!) Magnex stainless exhaust and decat on. Being magnex it's not mega loud, but you do know it's there. It does go a lot better compared to with the pattern copy OE exhaust and cat which are both included. It's not been lowered or owt, and the stock wheels are all there, as is a decent amount of tyre tread. Bad points that spring to mind are that it could do with a new fire ring on the exhaust as it blows a bit, the rocker covers leak a bit (they all do that sir™), it probably needs a coolant flush as it's just got water in since I did the stat, and the headlights could do with aligning, they are aimed quite low. Oh and I wired the airbag light up to the check engine light cos it's on all the time otherwise. There probably are other bad bits but it's something you can quite happily jump in and go to work every morning in, like I did until yesterday. I'm looking for £700. It's currently taxed and insured etc, I'm happy to take you for a good run about in it, you can drive it yourself if I can be sure you're insured (which is surprisingly cheap, £290 a year fully comp with aidy flux) I'm in Bolsover, near Chesterfield, just off M1 j29a.
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Last Edit: Oct 6, 2014 21:12:04 GMT by cobblers
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Apparently you can get away with just the O ring. You probably had a slight weep on diesel but the veg doesn't evaporate and the higher pressures exacerbate any leaks. Mine was better when I went back to dino but in the end I just changed the pump for a £50 ebay one.
You can change the pump head seal without removing the pump from the car if you get a special nitrile/viton one and an extended bolt to allow you to slide the head off just enough without all the innards collapsing. The pump has to be in the correct rotation to do this as well.
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Sept 30, 2014 21:18:28 GMT
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Those cutters in your link would eventually go through a cable but because of all the rubber/plastic in there you'd have to swing on them a bit. I've got similar and they work but take some squeezing. I always use a grinder because there's usually one at hand when I'm breaking a car.
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Last Edit: Sept 30, 2014 21:18:58 GMT by cobblers
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Sept 30, 2014 18:08:16 GMT
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Sept 29, 2014 20:58:32 GMT
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As above, use it to degrease minging stuff, then either take it to the tip and pour it in the "old oil" thing, or use ludicrous amounts of it to start bonfires.
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Sept 20, 2014 21:07:28 GMT
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We use one of these at work, I think it's great but the guys who bought it thought it would clean rusty steel pressings up with the pyramids in half an hour, then they could polish them up with walnut shells after that in another half an hour, all to save a few quid sending stuff out for blasting and zinc plate. Obviously it takes hours to even touch steel, and the stuff just goes rusty again unless you protect it.
It seems to work great on non-ferrous - ally, brass etc, just don't put both aly and brass/copper in at the same time, or you end up copper plating the aly. I'll suggest we use some of the glass media if it's a bit more aggressive - you seem to have had good results.
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Sept 17, 2014 21:28:32 GMT
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It'll be fine. Long term, if the alcohols are different then it could react and go gloopy. I'd probably recommend a drain and refill sooner or later, but there's no real urgency.
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Last Edit: Sept 17, 2014 21:29:07 GMT by cobblers
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Sept 17, 2014 21:02:58 GMT
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Little update, the "Staying with our lass for the moment" turned in to permanently living with her, so I don't need to sell the van anymore. She likes it as much as I do, so she'd also much rather I keep it. I went up to Dalby Forest with the mountain bike a couple of months ago, It was great, but having the bike swinging round in the back of the van was a nuisance, so I've now bought a Fiamma rack. Last month we went camping for a weekend in Gloucestershire to go to a wedding in Tetbury, but we ended up just swapping around the place for a week. One night we ended up sleeping in the grounds of a private boarding school that's run by a friend of hers, then a few nights at various caravan club places which ranged from awful (Burford) the reasonably nice (Greenhill near oxford) The van hasn't wanted for anything other than some wiper blades, but I did upgrade the leisure battery setup with a load more batteries I got from work - I added these four which fit perfectly in the bit under the drivers side of the bed. They are 37AH a piece, so in total I now have 8 batteries with about 220AH total. Ignore the croc clips, I had them on charge to get it all full before I go - Despite being a 70A alternator, it only seems to pump 30A into the leisure batteries, I presume due to voltage drops over the skinny alternator to starter wiring, the slightly scruffy earth strap and my cheap crappy auto switching split charge relay. Next step is to upgrade to a proper 140A relay and a 4AWG feed directly off the alternator, and perhaps rebuild the alternator with the 110A internals I've got. I'm also going to finally fit a PMS unit and mains hookup to the van - I've learned that I'm ending up on Caravan club sites more often than I'd like, so I don't really need to be able to run a coolbox for 4 days, as I'll have a hookup. I've got about a dozen PMS units here ready to fit and they have a cracking charger, so I might as well find a place to stick one (PM me if you want one cheap!) Oh, and got some bigger front tyres on. I had some part worn One Hung Lo 215/40/18s on, but they had worn funny and were very noisy ad had begun to crack with age despite only being a few years old, so I put a pair of 225/40/18s on and it's reduced the cabin noise at speed by about 10db. Which brings me to the final thing - Wind noise! The van will happily and comfortably cruise at 85mph, but I can't hear myself think for wind noise round the front end. The seals are all in good condition, but at 60+ they just seem to make a row. Has anyone got a solution? I've got two layers of bitumen and 10mm of foam rubber sound deadening all over the front, but it's still really loud.
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