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Yes. Four bolts. Two at the bottom, which are easy to get at. The two at the top are a little more awkward. The first one, on the left side, behind the fan housing by the oil cooler is easy enough, although you do have to get to it by feel. The second one is one of the two holding the starter motor on, and I suspect that you have undone the wrong one of those, which is why the engine wonβt come off the gearbox. One of the bolts I removed was covered in oil which makes me think that it wasn't the right one! I reckon it's that half moon starter bolt - I'm hoping to try tonight
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I'm sure I felt that bolt... why is it half moon shaped??
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Yes. Four bolts. Two at the bottom, which are easy to get at. The two at the top are a little more awkward. The first one, on the left side, behind the fan housing by the oil cooler is easy enough, although you do have to get to it by feel. The second one is one of the two holding the starter motor on, and I suspect that you have undone the wrong one of those, which is why the engine wonβt come off the gearbox. That's promising to hear - thank you for the advice! I'm going to have another go tonight after work
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Apr 21, 2024 17:12:02 GMT
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Had a few hours on the bus today. I've had to call it a night around dinner time as I just couldn't get the engine to split from the gearbox. Here's what I've done: Jacked up the back and put on axle stands Removed battery Removed the front tin Removed fuel hoses Removed wiring and labelled up Removed coil Disconnected throttle cable Disconnected heater flap cable Removed heater ducts Supported gearbox Removed 2 lower engine to gearbox nuts Removed bumper Drained oil Removed engine crossmember bolts Removed the offside engine to gearbox bolt Removed another bolt that I 'think' was the nearside engine to gearbox bolt Removed starter motor bolt I can see the engine and bell housing are apart slightly at the bottom - I just can't get the 2 to split. I have the gearbox supported and the engine on a hydraulic jack on wheels with wood under the sump area. I think I must have missed a bolt so I'm going to get the work light and have a late one tomorrow evening/night. Need to get her running again. Hoping to stay in it and Santa Pod end of May and the list keeps growing! Found about 6" of rear bumper end of the nearside chassis rail is rotten so I'll need to do that as well as weld in seat belt points for the rock and roll bed. I also need to fit my minibus seat and rails with under floor support.
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Apr 11, 2024 22:46:00 GMT
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Try the dealer ... armed with VIN number and any key id you have ... oh, and , Bu**er ... π good start to the project, eh?
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Apr 11, 2024 22:07:14 GMT
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It takes about ten minutes to drop a T2 engine! Really?!
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Apr 11, 2024 19:44:39 GMT
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Anyone have any good ideas in terms of clearing out a fuel tank without dropping it? It's an engine out job and I'd rather avoid that if possible!
I ran out of fuel and sucked curse word into the outlet π¬
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Made some good progress on the T2 recently. Got it running again by rewiring the ignition to coil etc. I converted it back to standard points and replaced everything. I've replaced all the fuel lines and hoses, too. It'll run well but only for 20 seconds or so - tank is coming off next as I'm convinced it's full of crud. I've stripped the paint and rust back from the floor and walls using a knot wheel and kurusted everything before hitting it with blue Rustoleum paint. I think I've managed to get it leak free from the cab back now so I can start fitting the Rusty Lee's custom crash tested rock and roll bed now. Got a few more coats of blue and white on the inside first and then I'll be getting some lighting up in there. I'm aiming for some Santa Pod weekends in the summer and The Gathering so I'd better get cracking!
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Had a bit of disaster - it came with two keys and two fobs. Both keys unlock the doors and boot and turn the engine over, but only one of them turns the alarm off and allows the car to start. Neither of the fobs do anything even with new batteries. I've tried to follow a guide on getting the fobs to connect but couldn't get it to work.
Now on to the disaster - I've lost the key that starts the car and turns the alarm off π I think it may have gone in the bin.
Nightmare. Any ideas, guys?
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Love your solution - I'll certainly be doing that if I have pump issues!
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Mar 25, 2024 11:40:05 GMT
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That's such great info - I was wondering if there was a way of getting to it from the top. Thanks mate I hopefully won't need to do it though (yet!) - I was fault finding again just to be sure before I started to remove the tank (both tanks!) and realised I'd found out I'd swapped in a relay that was also faulty. I put another in and she fired right up - I can't believe it's been off the road for so long for such a simple reason. I've spent quite a long time hunting for the problem and dismissed the relay as it was the first thing I'd swapped but to no joy. My drive to work this morning was blissfully peaceful. So happy to be back in the XJ40!
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Mar 21, 2024 11:54:19 GMT
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Oh interesting - I'll have a look at that tonight. I've put it back in the garage as there's a little list of jobs I want to complete now:
Brake pedal Poly engine mounts Fan relay and fuse/wiring - also check leccy thermostat is working
once they're done I'll get it back out
Then I want to clean the Skyline injectors and fit them, wire the Z32 Airflow meter in, and fit my Horsham's Dev chip. I'll be able to up the boost to 18psi then.
Before that I need a new oil pressure gauge and to wire in a new boost gauge.
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There's a receipt in the history folder for a pump in 2021. Either something is killing the pumps or it's something else so I guess I need to keep investigating!
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So. While checking for a spark I got a blooming great shock. Spark - check I can't hear the fuel pump priming Fuel pump fuse is ok Fuel pump relay clicks with ignition It's a tank in pump setup from what I can see - anyone have experience of this job?
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Feb 25, 2024 10:35:07 GMT
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The long pedal isn't just the pads being knocked back by disc/bearing run out is it? I know mine does occasionally with the 316mm discs up front Hmm could be - had no indication whatsoever before the bearing went so it is a bit of a strange one. I'll take the wheel off later and investigate ππ»
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Caused myself a bit of an issue by over tightened a wheel bearing. The races managed to weld themselves to the stub axle and hub and I broke down on the way to work needing recovery! Managed to source 2nd hand strut and hub from Evans and Sons Rally Spares ππ» So she's back on the road with new bearings driving great I extended the gearshifter and it's so much better to drive! In the SX the gearbox tunnel is much higher in relation to the driving position so the standard stick is short. I've always had to lean forwards slightly to put in 4th etc and I decided to sort it instead of just accepting it π best decision ever - it's transformed the driving experience! Hoping it helps at the strip, too, as I have hit 5th instead of 3rd on a few occasions. I also bought a new Motomec leather wheel to replace the very worn suede one. Pics incoming. Onto the newest issue - I think I have a dodgy master cylinder. Pedal occasionally drops further than it should but I'm not losing any fluid. If I pump the pedal it firms up and returns to the normal height. Just need to decide if I'm going to replace the seals or the whole cylinder www.instagram.com/reel/C2_yrE9o1fu/?igsh=MWF0cnBnOGg2d2d2Mw==
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Re-insured the Mazda and I've been using it for a few weeks - XJ40 not starting at the moment and the Capri had a spectacularly failed wheel bearing incident. www.instagram.com/reel/C3QwmuuIy89/?igsh=dTFiZHF5MG9uaXc1Track day in 2 weeks! Going back to oulton park Need to address a couple of things before we go: Oil change - seems to use a little oil so need to factor that in to hammering it all day at the track when choosing viscosity Green stuff pads were useless last time and faded after 3 corners. Spent the rest of the day with spongy underperforming brakes. Going to upgrade to yellow stuff unless there are any cheaper alternatives that'll do a good job. Mot highlighted that the brake lines aren't the best so I think I'll renew them all Finally, the alternator belt sounds awful under load. If I have the lights on and the heater at the same time it screeches like mad even though it's the correct tightness. It snapped a belt less than 1000 miles ago and there was a big pile of rubber dust on the bracket - it's leading me to think maybe the pulley is stiff? I have a spare mx5 alternator so I may do that, too. Finally - I'm not sure the idle is quite right. It doesn't seem to be raising at all with electrical load one it's warm Sometimes it's idling below 400rpm So a few things to tinker with next weekend before the track day the weekend after!
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So I took the old crank sensor off and the new one has a different connector π
When cranking the engine the rev counter doesn't bounce (it does once when the ignition is first turned and then just flat lines) so hopefully it is the crank sensor.
It seems that there is a 'fat' connector on the older ones and they no longer make it so I guess I'll be trying to see if I can adapt the new one.
I miss driving this lovely cat
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Feb 17, 2024 22:08:23 GMT
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Happy birthday to my favourite Corner of the internet. I think I joined in 2008 and it's been the top bookmark on my devices ever since. Thank you for everything!
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Feb 16, 2024 20:22:22 GMT
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The wheels on the white jag you were asking about a few pages back look like BMW e39 wheels, they bolt up no problem. Or the factory 16 steel wheel is still available, here are 3 used ones: linkThanks mate - a bit more research might've been good in retrospect! They didn't cost me much thankfully. This is great info - thank you ππ»
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