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Oct 26, 2019 16:09:01 GMT
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Parachute support frame completed, just need to secure boot stiffening frame. If I had made this from steel it would have weighed in at around 3kg (both parts). Made from carbon fibre and aluminium is comes in at just over 600gms :-) The diagonal cross brace wasn't really required but it looked a little spindly so by adding it I will, hopefully, get fewer questions and comments :-) I made one miscalculation. When holding it together whilst the glue cured I needed to put a little twist into it to line everything up. So, as you do with metal, I over twisted it a tad in order to allow for a little spring back. Unfortunately, I had forgotten that carbon doesn't do that so I have a slight twist the other way. Unless you look closely it doesn't show so I will live with it.     |
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Oct 24, 2019 12:47:41 GMT
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Well, obviously, handbags and shoes are far more important than the stuff men collect :-)
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Oct 23, 2019 22:47:17 GMT
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Yep, I have an offcuts bucket for little bits and an offcut bin for bigger bits. Very often comes in handy! Can't have too much stuff :-) |
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Oct 23, 2019 19:37:32 GMT
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Making the parachute support is costing me nothing at the moment. I never throw away aluminium bigger than an inch square or bar/rod longer than 10mm so I have draws full of the stuff. This comes in handy for making small items, such as the junctions and fixings for the carbon rods. The rods are also from stock and the plates made from prepreg stored in my workshop freezer. The wood is used mainly as wedges to hold stuff whilst it cures.  |
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Last Edit: Oct 23, 2019 19:38:36 GMT by nalesutol
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Oct 22, 2019 20:38:35 GMT
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Rear boot panel support frame roughed out and aluminium threaded inserts glued into the ends of the long sections. The short angled inserts are a little more complicated as they will be welded to fixing plates. Parachute support plate and frame fixing plate each made from 6 layers of 420gm prepreg carbon.  |
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Last Edit: Oct 22, 2019 20:42:03 GMT by nalesutol
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Oct 22, 2019 19:51:40 GMT
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52grms!!  Maybe put some holes in it? I know, it halves my recent savings :-) People seem to have got the impression that I am fixated on holes, don't know where that came from. |
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Oct 22, 2019 19:49:38 GMT
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Not sure if it is of any help, but have just discovered a good source of lightweight stainless pipe. Mine is 35mm dia. and 1mm wall, if that. This wonder material is commonly available as the long tube on some vacuum cleaners. Is it stainless or chrome plated? All my tubes are aluminium, apart from the exhaust of course :-) |
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Oct 22, 2019 18:10:14 GMT
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How about sanding off the black paint and then paint it with bright aluminium paint - shiny heat reflective duct with no weight gain - win win. Thought about that but it would have very little effect due to lack of any air gap, paint will still get hot IMO. The answer was lying under the car! I have been dismantling my large curing oven so I can use the materials to build v2 in the new garage. The interior was lined with a double sided aluminium/foam sandwich insulation sheet. This has shrunk due to the high temps so I have ripped it out and a section was sitting under the car. Cut a piece off and stuck it on. It weighs 52gms :-)  |
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Last Edit: Oct 22, 2019 18:11:24 GMT by nalesutol
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Oct 22, 2019 13:36:18 GMT
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Mclaren use pure gold foil, much better than Bacofoil* You are over thinking it, the air will rush past too fast to get heated by any significant amount and on a drag strip the engine will not run long enough to get really cooking. Heat shield may show a difference on a dyno but you will never see it in real life. Now, if you could find room for an ice box for the air to pass through then you arer talking sense, but then how much does ice weigh?   *other foils are available. It just seems wrong to leave the intake duct that is very close to a warm air flow unprotected. I have considered an ice box. However, I am pretty power limited as it is so it would just be extra weight and complexity. To satisfy my concern, simply sticking on silver foil will not do any harm and it will look like I understand the issue of the proximity of the duct to the rads :-) |
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Oct 22, 2019 13:28:11 GMT
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Interesting stuff. However, their sample pack costs a minimum of $125! I think, as blackpopracing suggests, that I am overthinking the problem. Although the car will not get heat soaked, there will be warm air hitting the intake ducting. So, to pacify my concerns, a layer of silver foil held on with blocks of double sided tape in order to provide an air gap will do the job. |
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Last Edit: Oct 22, 2019 13:37:27 GMT by nalesutol
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Oct 22, 2019 11:02:25 GMT
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The thoughts were centered around the track surface and the boundary layer air temps as the car moves through that layer - and how hot that air would be entering the front of the car where the air intake is. Also go me thinking about air density on a really hot still day on a drag strip and how different the density could be at 4" from the track surface and at 2' - but then I thought about making a cup of tea and going out into the garage instead - Slow news day. I am not Adrian Newey so can't see air :-) Air enters most cars' intakes at the front and usually pretty low down. The air would be cooler further away from the track surface but that would create unwanted drag caused by the new intake. Intake is approx 150mm above the ground, well above any boundary layer so, on reflection, I am probably OK, IMO. Drinking my coffee then off to the same place :-) |
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Ginetta used "Bacofoil" to line the bulkhead for heat reflecting duty on the mid engined G32 not for weight, for cost, but it lasted well enough and as it was applied to a flat surface did not look too bad Ginetta were also cheap enough that they chose not to use the "heavy duty" thicker and more robust type. Thinking about your ductwork - as I would imagine that you will have an incoming air sensor it will be interesting to note if the placement of the duct picks up hot air from the surface of the track. Bacofoil, now there's a name from the past and still available :-) Heat from the track shouldn't be too much of an issue.  |
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Last Edit: Oct 22, 2019 9:05:44 GMT by nalesutol
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It will help. How about duct sealing tape? Basically self adhesive foil! Good thought. I have some left over from when I built my curing oven. Easy to fit but no air gap. However, we are not talking high temps so this could work. Cheers. |
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OK, question time. The air intake runs close to the back of the radiator and intercooler so I need to add some insulation. Seeing as I am a tad anal about weight I am looking for a lightweight solution. As the intake is only exposed to the warm air exiting the rad and IC I am considering using aluminium cooking foil, shiny side out, on the area highlighted in green. Any thoughts? Just had one. If I secure the foil using thick double sided sticky pads there will be a small air gap which should improve the insulation effect, I think :-)   |
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Last Edit: Oct 22, 2019 8:36:49 GMT by nalesutol
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First draft of parachute support frame.  |
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Oct 21, 2019 21:50:15 GMT
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When not drilling holes, I started on the parachute support system. First task is to brace the rear panel, with carbon of course, as it isn't rigid enough to support the chute. This, although not causing access issues, will be removable. Tomorrow I will make a start on the chute support frame proper. PS, the nitrous bottle isn't fitted, it is just sitting in there.  |
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Last Edit: Oct 21, 2019 21:52:26 GMT by nalesutol
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Oct 21, 2019 18:07:27 GMT
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I'm beginning to worry about you.... Only beginning? :-) The thing is, the lathe is very close to the bench, so it would be rude not to. I have only got to do this to 5556 screws and I have removed a kg :-) |
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Last Edit: Oct 21, 2019 18:09:51 GMT by nalesutol
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Oct 21, 2019 17:52:41 GMT
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I have just had my condition diagnosed and confirmed. I suffer from OCWRD. No known cure.   |
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Last Edit: Oct 21, 2019 17:55:30 GMT by nalesutol
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Oct 20, 2019 20:28:27 GMT
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3 days into my weight reduction logging experiment. If I had known that I was going to post this list I would have taken more care :-)  |
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Last Edit: Oct 20, 2019 22:17:42 GMT by nalesutol
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