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The better the machine the better the results.
I've got a 260amp SWP machine that cost quite a bit to buy new, but has been worth it for the work it's done, the Plasma cutter that came as part of the package has more than earned it's keep in the years I've had it also.
We recently picked up a 3 phase Lincoln Electric machine at work -£500 for a 420 amp machine- which is a beautiful thing to work with. My SWP is world's apart from the little Clarke 135 I started with, and it's as big a jump up from it to the big Lincoln.
Worth noting that duty cycle is a big thing to note when buying a welder. Usually quoted as a percentage for a given output, it indicates how long a machine can operate at a given output, and the bigger the machine, the higher the duty cycles for specific outputs.
For example, the Clarke 135 will be able to sustain 130 amps at say 10% duty cycle, or six minutes in every hour. The Lincoln 420 can do the same at perhaps an 85% duty cycle, or 51 minutes in every hour, and will be running at 380amps+ before you get to a 10% figure, and that's enough to weld some very thick steel together.
Wire thicknesses have been mentioned, my own machine is currently running 0.8mm as it suits fine for 1-3mm which is most of what it does.
Arc welders are a different avenue altogether. Cheap nasty ones with curse word transformers will make your life a misery trying to get them to weld nicely, especially on thinner stuff.
If you're buying one then the older oil filled ones will give good results, but are a bit limited by being rather cumbersome, and heavy enough you wouldn't want to drop it on your foot.
More modern Inverter Welders really are a world apart. They give a good quality weld, but come in a package that you can pick up and throw over your shoulder, as opposed to dislocating it trying to pick the thing up. Some are obviously better than others, Kempii stuff being my personal favourite.
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An excellent tribute to the man from Honda, who powered him to three world titles.
If you haven't seen this before then watch it on the biggest screen possible with the sound as loud as it will go.
If you have, the same applies.
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Apr 29, 2017 20:56:32 GMT
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With added Manure?
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Apr 29, 2017 17:35:41 GMT
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Double post, 8 or 9 hours apart...
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Sorta reminds me of the Hudson Hornet in the first Cars movie (I know it's a different car) but that was my first thought.
As for names, something like the 40's/50's futurisms applied to concept cars perhaps?
Futurama is obviously taken, but that sort of idea.
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Apr 27, 2017 20:37:35 GMT
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And the gearbox, I presume it's a more modern four-speed unit? I'm not up to speed on automatic 'boxes at all. The ZF 4HP22 is the same 4 speed box used in Automatic Discovery, Range Rover, and Defender models powered by the Rover V8, Tdi, Td5 or BMW M51. They were also used in a variety of BMW, Volvo and Jaguar cars, along with V8 Auto LDV vans. They're a box with good reputation, strong, and well suited to the engine, although very much late 80's/Early 90's tech. An excellent upgrade in an old Rover saloon with a V8 engine.
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Apr 26, 2017 19:00:30 GMT
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If you want diesel then an M51 can be made to fit in a 4 cylinder Series engine bay.
I've also thought for some time that the M47 found in the Td4 Freelander, Rover 75, 320d etc would be a good candidate too.
Similar power and torque curves to the 200 Tdi, and similar outputs in standard tune, with options to map them to a reliable 180bhp and a good load of torque.
Back to the 110, I pulled it into the workshop and removed the floors, tunnel and a few other bits, along with draining the oil from the box.
Despite a reddish tint, it smelled and awful lot like EP90, and not the ATF it should have contained. My fault for not checking properly? I can't really blame anyone else...
I've also noticed the MOT is due in around 3 weeks time, so there's a few little jobs to attend to once the box is back in. A new hazard light switch, and I'll pull my finger out and fit the new rear pads I've had sat for it for about 6 months (3 of which it wasn't on the road before I'm made to feel any more shame) and anything gets else I'm likely to find.
There are times I wonder why I bother with it, I think this is one of them.
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Apr 24, 2017 18:28:29 GMT
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It gets more and more interesting. So you can mount this motor to an LT85 with an adaptor plate? This could be simpler than sourcing a decent tdi engine and gearbox. Mid 20s on petrol would be ok, but you could also run it on lpg, which I already have fitted to my 110. Yup, adapter plate spigot spigot bush and front pipes are the only non standard parts on mine. Everything else is pretty much either BMW or Land Rover parts.
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Apr 24, 2017 18:25:57 GMT
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Interesting. That's pretty short. I've got a 200tdi in my Series 2 109" and am approaching the point where I have to decide whether to rebuild the Tdi properly, or look for something else to replace it with. The smoothness of a six really appeals, but I'd want to keep the vehicle looking visually the same - lights in the grille, series gearbox and interior. I've a galv chassis too, so I'd not want to be chopping that or the bulkhead about. What are your thoughts? I'd be lying if I said I hadn't considered the idea of one in a Series motor, although my idea was building a Forward Control around one. Rebuild a Tdi or drop an M52 in? BMW power!!! The Series box should cope with a B28 (190bhp and 210lb/ft) although the B25 (168bhp and 181lb/ft) would likely suit the purpose well. An adapter isn't going to be the most difficult thing to make, whilst a switch back to 4.7 diffs would also be beneficial. Adapt the back end of a six cylinder exhaust system to fit the engine and it'd be an excellent setup.
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It didn't get far enough to think about working out mpg, but for the run it did get -going on movement of the gauge- it seems alright. A mate who had one in a 90 reckons mid twenties mpg is more than achievable, and a long run could see it break the low 30's.
Wiring wise, once you see the wiring diagram and have a list of which wires on the plugs you need to connect it's no more complicated than connecting up the Lucas 14CUX setup on an efi V8, that being a load of lives, earth's and 6 wires to splice into the vehicle loom for power feeds, oil light, alternator etc.
There's a fairly comprehensive guide from E30zone that Andyborris linked me to in another thread in the tech section.
It would pull a 1.4 box, but I've heard varying opinions on them. There's a chap on LR4X4 with a 1.4 in a 110 CSW that reckons it's ok, whilst I've read of another guy who switched in his factory one and went back fairly quickly as he felt it rather numbed performance. My mate did the same with his old one and liked it, although reported it wasn't so keen on hill starts, however it would pull 90mph in 3rd.
I went for a 1.6 as it's a 110, it will be used for towing, and that's what the factory ones had. Seems good so far.
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Not entirely sure how been autocorrected to heel... nevermind.
My SL35 was in a 110 Station Wagon, also with an autobox.
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Apr 23, 2017 21:04:54 GMT
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Smart motor. The SL35 is a good strong motor, I did like the one I had in my 110 until recently.
Has it heel lifted? Looks to be sitting fairly high.
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Apr 23, 2017 20:52:46 GMT
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My Mrs reckons Sabine should be made one of the lead 3.
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Apr 23, 2017 19:56:49 GMT
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Not sure on the length of a Tdi, but according to the Internet, the M52 is about 29 inches from the back of the block to front pulley. Pretty short really, fits in the same space a V8 goes, and about the same space between fan and radiator.
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Apr 23, 2017 17:45:27 GMT
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Still on the B28 manifold, you're not the first person to suggest a B25 manifold as an upgrade. At the moment it goes well enough to keep me happy, and I need to concentrate efforts on a few other bits that are needing attention, but I doubt this is the last M52/Land Rover conversion I'll do, and more go at some point down the line will no doubt be tempting. Looking down the passenger side of the engine it doesn't look like there's a lot of room. Enough for a LHD steering column, steering box, brake master etc? Love the idea of this engine as a replacement for the V8 in mine when the time comes, but she's a lhd model. What's the power delivery like in comparison to a 3.9 rv8? I'm not 100% sure on where the LHD brake master etc will sit, but the steering box would be where the power steering pump wants to be. You can free up some space by fitting a P38 steering box (will sit on the outside of the chassis) whilst the M52 should really be around 11° further inclined over to the O/S, which would free up a little more space on the N/S of the bay. Mine's at 11° off the vertical as the adapter I got hold of was for a diesel, which is of course more upright. There's a couple been done into LHD vehicles on the continent, so there's obviously no insurmountable issues. In terms of driving, it goes very well, plenty of bottom end torque, and got better when my brain got round the idea of letting it rev -the 1.66 high ratio transfer box helps this- as it really comes alive over 3000rpm. The SA built ones are listed as having a 9 second 0-60 time, and are certainly the quickest factory built Defender. Apparently testing revealed them to be better than the V8 model in every department. I'd certainly be more tempted to fit another M52 than another Rover V8 if I had the choice of either.
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Apr 22, 2017 17:19:52 GMT
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Nope, V8 and Tdi Disco shaft length is the same, but I will need to make a new spigot bearing to suit the Tdi box as they have a 7/8" spigot rather than the 3/4 of the V8.
Not an insurmountable problem, just another bump in the road.
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Gotta love a Range Rover, especially when you're starting with a good solid one.
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Apr 21, 2017 11:41:55 GMT
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Apr 17, 2017 20:21:57 GMT
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I've only ever done them using the locking pin in the pump and timing marks on the crank and cam. Remember that the pulley on the pump has a vernier adjustment, so you can let the pulley float a little to get the belt on properly and everything lined up.
There are 3 versions of the cam belt kit, the original which uses the tensioner for belt alignment, the first mod which uses the crank pulley as the guide with side plates spot welded on, and the final version which also uses the crank pulley as a guide, but is cast in one piece.
You want the final version, as the second one, whilst a step forward was notable for the spot welds failing and either allowing the belt to buff away against the front cover, or pulling the spot welded plate in with obvious consequences.
The timing pin/puller kit is only about £20, and makes the job easier, especially getting the pulleys off. It can be quite a battle to get the timing belt pulley off the crank also.
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Apr 16, 2017 19:54:41 GMT
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As with all these things, the best way to get the wife to agree with an idea is to make her think it was her idea to start with.
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