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Sept 30, 2018 22:37:34 GMT
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I watched the YouTube vid...that thing has a lot of cam overlap. Looking forward to seeing how it drives. Any idea what the compression ratio might be? Normally with a lot of cam you go high on compression.
I think the first drive is going to be fun!
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Sept 26, 2018 12:03:31 GMT
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The mustang ones are quite nice at $200 for the pair.
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Sept 26, 2018 2:28:09 GMT
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There’s a bmw convertible round the corner from my workshop fitted with similar pins. They didn’t work 😔. Bonnet and hinges wrecked and a flat spot in the middle of the roof where the bonnet hit it. I would definitely look into a proper latch! Front hinged bonnet, so no worries there! Could probably get by with some big magnets.
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Sept 25, 2018 19:08:27 GMT
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Rebuilding the carb is not going to change the vacuum readings all that much. Vacuum is a function of the pumping side of the system. ie piston and valve timing and integrity.
Distributor timing on the other hand does have a significant effect on vacuum, and in fact can be used instead of a timing light or if you should not have the timing spec; just adjust to where you get the strongest vacuum and you are pretty much there.
Not a huge fan of rebuilding old carbs. Maybe its me or maybe its the nature of worn-out parts and a lot of them...but they never seem to work out all that well. Your mileage might vary.
By the way, what size is the carb on that engine? Anything over a 650 cfm is going to be too big and work against you in taming a big cam.
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Sept 25, 2018 14:45:36 GMT
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Took a sec to figure out the throttle "pedal"! Does not sound too cammy, but get it to idle around 1000 rpm and see what the vacuum looks like. If it is a Holley, keep in mind that the power-valve is vacuum rated and might be the cause of your misfire as it would be open all the time at low vacuum. Much palaver on the subject: www.holley.com/blog/post/holley_power_valve_tuning/How to ensure your Holley carburetor is using the right power valve for your engine. Holley carburetors have a power enrichment system that provides fuel to the main power circuit during heavy loads or under full throttle situations. The vacuum operated power enrichment system is controlled by a Power Valve that times the operation to your engine's specific needs. How it works: The power valve opens at low vacuum, such as at wide open throttle, and directs more fuel into the main power circuit. The valve itself is a small rubber diaphragm with a small coil spring. When opened, it allows fuel to flow through a calibrated opening in the metering block called the power valve channel restrictor. This restrictor determines the amount of additional fuel delivered to the engine. Problems: The incorrect size power valve, or a blown out power valve can cause problems such as poor fuel economy, black smoke emanating from your exhaust, dark or fouling spark plugs and a poor idle. If you suspect that your carburetor has a blown-out power valve, you can perform this simple test. 1) Check the manufacture date of your Holley carb. Performance Holley carburetors come with a power valve blow-out check valve built in. It prevents damage to the power valve in case of backfire. Holley carbs older than 1992, however, may not have this check valve built in. 2) Test it using the idle mixture screws If you still suspect the power valve is blown out, start your engine and allow it to idle and get to normal operating temperature. Then, turn the idle mixture screws all the way in. If the engine dies the power valve is not blown. High Performance Engine Power Valve Selection: High performance engines with modified cylinder heads, long duration camshafts and single plane intake manifolds may require a change to the power valve. To find out which power valve your high-performance engine needs, you can perform the following procedure: 1) Hook a vacuum gauge to an intake manifold vacuum port. 2) Warm up the engine and note the vacuum reading at idle. Automatic transmission vehicles need to be in the Drive position, while manual transmission vehicles can be in Neutral. 3) Divide the vacuum reading in half. The number will determine the correct power valve. Each power valve is stamped with a number that indicates the correct vacuum opening point. For example a power valve with the number #65 stamped on it, will open at 6.5 inches of engine vacuum. As an example, a vacuum reading at idle of 13-inches, is divided by two and results in a 6.5 inches of vacuum. Therefore, you should have a #65 Holley Power Valve installed in the carburetor. If you divide the vacuum reading and it falls on an even number, you should select he next lowest power valve number. For example a vacuum reading of 8-inches, divided by 2 and you come up with a number of 4. In this case you would use a #35 power valve. Finally, if your engine produces 13 inches of vacuum or more, the stock power valve that the carburetor is equipped with from the factory, is sufficient. Holley power valves come in a range of orifice sizes. The higher the number the more fuel is added.
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Sept 25, 2018 14:15:24 GMT
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the Volvo had two latches: one either side and that real-estate is gone along with the Rube-Goldberg release mechanism that was attached to the Volvo firewall .
I have considered a center latch but not sure how it would play out.I also have this fear of cable failures that leave you staring at the bonnet with an axe in hand!
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Sept 25, 2018 1:27:05 GMT
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Been kinda quiet cause I been kinda stuck. The five minute job of bolting the nice rust free bonnet turned into a three week ordeal. When offered up to the hinges, the captive nuts at the bonnet attach points were off by 1/4" . With no option to shift anything to make it meet. Well, it took the full cycle of disbelief, denial, grief and rehabilitation to get it fixed. Seems that what I thought was a pristine bonnet was not. Somebody had been at the hinge points and changed them and the alignment quite a bit. Weird thing is that it would have never worked the way they had it. In the end, the entire front brace had to be remade to move the hinge-attach points to a new position in a different plane; The hinge pivot axis were not in line and withing the limitations of the keyboard drawing were line this / \ rather than like this - - Anyhow...not knowing where to go when I give up, three weeks later I have a bonnet that opens and closes and I am halfway to happy with the shut-lines. Of course I am going to fine tune them, but I think I can put the MIG gun away for now. Since the Volvo hood latch is long gone, and I don't see a way to avoid it, the hood will be latched using these push button hood pins. Open to suggestions that don't require punching holes in the bonnet. Considered a remote electric, but electrons have a way of letting you down at the most inopportune times.
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Sept 24, 2018 17:34:50 GMT
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External shift linkages are Satan's doing.
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Sept 21, 2018 19:47:21 GMT
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That looks like a nice piece of kit! So put that thing on the base of the carb and have a look while tuning.
Last I checked, vacuum has the same back in the prehistoric days of your youth as it is today. Still pretty important as your EFI cars all use it to decide what to do when controlling the engine.
Note that the gauge pretty much tells you that if you are under 10 inches of vacuum, it is a bad thing and you should fix it. Big cams all have low vacuum at idle because of the "late valve timing" described on the gauge. Late valve timing is designed into the cam. You cant fix that! Up to the driver to learn how to live with it by dancing on the pedals.
One thing that might help is a FITECH or SNIPER throttle body EFI. Since these systems do not rely on vacuum to atomize the fuel, they can live with the big cams on the street.8-10 inches of vacuum is about what these systems like to operate. Carbs like 16-19 inches to do a good job of mixing the fuel and air.
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Sept 21, 2018 15:15:35 GMT
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If you don't own one, get a vacuum gauge and see what kind of vacuum signal you have at the carb. A carb is just an analog computer and in order to program it, you need to know what the inputs are. The good news is that vacuum gauges are dirt cheap.
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Sept 18, 2018 18:37:05 GMT
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There comes a time when you need to start thinking in 3 dimensions. These are very handy to have in the shop and don't cost a fortune. Go to Youtube and search for Lancashire metal stretcher for ideos of how to use. Other tools that come to mind based on what I do: A hollowed out stump is an alternative to an English wheel and cheap to make. So are tucking forks. The sandbag and mallet has already been suggested. Don't forget a planishing spoon to smooth out the shapes. GOOD sheet metal sheers are a must. If the budget allows, a bench mounted Beverly shear makes life a lot easier. Clecos and but-weld clamps are inexpensive and will be used often. I have 4 angle grinders. Wish I had 6. The cordless drill gets used A LOT so I buy Bosh
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Last Edit: Sept 18, 2018 18:38:01 GMT by bjornagn
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Sept 17, 2018 13:38:50 GMT
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that's my question really, are we on about dropping from 350lbs of torque to 300lbs ? which is allot, but 300 is still allot. i drive a 3500lb truck with only 120lbs of torque, how does it even move ? It is a driveability issue more than anything else. If the video post and you can see the vacuum gauge at the back of the engine, you will see that it is in the red zone. 5-6 inches of vacuum is normally a sign of a very sick engine. Or a very big cam with a lot of overlap. So the torque is there,but think of it as a knife edge balancing act: the problem is that as soon as you start to engage the clutch, it will want to pull the rpm down and hence reduce vacuum to the point where it dies. The answer is to be more aggressive with the throttle inputs as you ask the car to move. If you have an automatic gearbox, you would use a high rpm stall converter to do the juggling for you. This is all great fun if all you do is drive the car to shows and the occasional run around town, but in traffic it sucks. The other consideration is that carburetors are not really meant to be run on such low vacuum. They do their best work when the vacuum signal is over 15 inches of vacuum. Big cams will do that in a bi hurry once you get them in the operating zone. Since the owner of this car is just going to play-drive the thing on the street, I predict that he will be back with complaints that the car is not fast enough. At that point a mild low-end torque cam will be put in and the car will launch off the lights quite nicely. Of course the $2000 CNC ported heads he bought will be doing nothing useful that stock ones would not do just as well! Sorry to hijack your thread Mr Grenade!
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Sept 17, 2018 11:27:55 GMT
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I like me a good cam cackle as much as the next guy but it rarely bodes well for a street engine in a heavy vehicle due to the low vacuum ad torque down low. how low can the torque be at nearly 5.5 litres ? Just finished installing a similar engine in a Fox Body Mustang and at 6 inches of vacuum at 1000 rpm, it is not all that torquey. You spend a lot of time feathering the throttle to get it moving around the block in a civilized manner. Now...if you want to rev the thing and drop the clutch, it works just fine. The engine wakes up around 4k rpm. The owner loves it, so that is all that matters. Pete
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Sept 16, 2018 11:44:26 GMT
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I like me a good cam cackle as much as the next guy but it rarely bodes well for a street engine in a heavy vehicle due to the low vacuum ad torque down low. If the rest of the engine is built to suit that cam, it should be a fun beast once it gets on the cam! What rear gear does this truck have? I am thinking maybe a 4.10 to play with that cam?
Looking forward to the road report.
Pete
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Sept 14, 2018 14:44:52 GMT
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Blasting a shell can be a great way to restore a classic carl. The thing is you need to really be sure of the place doing the blasting. I picked up my current Volvo project because the sandblaster destroyed the car. Door, quarter panels and roof panel were all wavy and full of oil-cans ( where the metal presses in and out with a POP sound). Picture is of the roof panel that had over a dozen oilcan dents. They hit this poor panel so hard that you can see the rib structure inside the car. It took about 50 hours with the shrinking disc and a good skim of bog to make it all smooth again. It is a shame since the car was for the most part as "Rust Free" s a P1800ES could be after 40 years. In doing my research on how I was going to fix this Mongolian Clusterfuck, I learned that the common belief is that warp is caused by heat built up during the blasting process. This is not true. The reason that blasting causes warp is because the media actually compresses the top layer of the metal. But ONLY the top surface. Since the compressed metal needs less surface area, it pulls in the surrounding area of metal. This causes the metal to bend inwards creating the oil-can dents. A good blaster comes at the panel at a very shallow angle of attack with the media almost parallel to the surface. With the options of walnut shells and plastic, there is no reason to be using sand to blast coachwork. The only way I found to fix the damage was with the use of a shrinking disc. Shrinking disc are a great tool that requires a long and mystical learning curve, but one that you will want at hand if you do a lot of tin-work. The irony of this whole story is that despite the damage caused to the body panels, the blaster did a phenomenal job of blasting and epoxy priming the floors, chassis and engine compartment, that I proceeded to cut out!
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Last Edit: Sept 14, 2018 14:45:24 GMT by bjornagn
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Sept 13, 2018 12:12:48 GMT
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What was wrong with the fist engine that mixed oil and water?
And not that I don't love a good story, but did it occur to owners that for the cost of the Montana F**kery they could have bought a crate engine WITH transmission from JEGS or somesuch?
But like I say, love me some beer-drinking around the campfire with a good story, so carry on!
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Sept 9, 2018 14:11:38 GMT
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you must have taken more pics than that?? Took about 100 pictures of how the trim was attached to the Volvo since that is in my near- future. As to the Miata? Guess the owner has been in my social circle long enough that I never thought to take any more pics. The car is done to a very high standard starting with an immaculate donor. I have driven it and the acceleration ( stock ford efi rebuild) makes me giggle every time I push the go pedal.
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Sept 9, 2018 12:27:05 GMT
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The true measure is driving enjoyment. Funny enough, and hard to believe, but that is not always the case. An artist will sculpt something because he feels that it needs to be released from the rock, not because he needs something to decorate a table in the house. Much the same, once a project is done, and I have had a spin around the block, I am more interested in whats next. Pete
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So, unplanned, unrelated and unexpected, these two show up in my driveway today. Yes the Miata has a 302 V8 What are the odds?
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Sept 8, 2018 14:55:23 GMT
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I hear you loud and clear on all of the above!
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