g40jon
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I have bought and sold many sets of wheels, probably in excess of 100. This was the first (and last) time that I have bought them unseen. Had I been collecting in person, I would have simply walked away. I have sent him pictures of the damage. His reply was that the damage was mostly cosmetic and that he was expecting far worse. We will see how the paypal dispute goes. (I am pretty sensible when it comes to buying online, so didn't send the money as a gift) I don't think the seller can claim to have not known. Going by his ebay account, he clearly buys and sells lots of wheels as a small business, so in my opinion should have known what he was selling. www.ebay.co.uk/sch/lifes-cushy/m.html?item=321311275681&clk_rvr_id=585950857473&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
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Last Edit: Feb 12, 2014 9:00:43 GMT by g40jon
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g40jon
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Right you have made my mind up. Gonna politely decline the refund offer and let paypal decide. The guy is refusing to take the wheels back, so to my mind he either believes they are genuinely fine to use (which they are not. They look worse in the metal than they do in the pics) or more likely he knows they are mashed to the point that he will struggle to sell them on.
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g40jon
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That is going to look brand new once finished! How come you didn't remove the wheels weights before re-finishing the wheels? Or will you just re-do them again when the tyres next require changing?
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g40jon
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Thanks for the reply. I didn't go through ebay, but that isn't relevant anyway (paid through paypal, so can pretty much do the same thing). I simply want some advice as to whether they are repairable for sensible money. If there is a fair chance the wheels could be straightened and tested without spending silly money on them, then I might keep them and get them done.
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g40jon
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Have read a few articles from the US with people finding issues with 10% bio-ethanol in the fuel which has damaged fuel line components during storage, it seams if the car isn't used the fuel damages them more than a vehicle in constant use, so many are draining or filling with normal fuel before storing. I put my g40 into storage for a year and there is now fuel leaking from the fuel pump everytime I start it up to give it a run. It was fine before it was parked up. I don't even want to think about what else will be screwed by the time I put it back on the road again!
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g40jon
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Posts: 2,569
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I want to get some opinions. A week or so ago I bought some wheels. Saw the advert on ebay, but did the deal outside of ebay. The advert looked fine, nice big pictures, so no reason to doubt the seller. They also had good feedback. So I went ahead and bought the wheels for £185 delivered. Now for £150 I expected to recieve a set of wheels that were at least round! They turned up and the fronts looked, but the backs of the wheels on all 4 are scuffed fairly badly and two of the wheels have dents/flat spots on them. So I messaged the seller, stating that two were damaged and that I would like to return them for a full refund. The seller refused my request for a refund and asked for pics (had they bothered to look at the backs of the wheels they would have seen they were damaged!) I have even offered to return them at my own expense, but I get the feeling the seller is reluctant to take them back, am I being un-reasonable? He has offered a £30 refund towards getting the wheels fixed, so the main question I want answered is would you take the £30 and try and get them repaired or is it too much of a risk? I had planned to use the wheels on my mx5, but there is no way I would be happy to run them in the state they are in. I often take my 1 year old daughter out in the mx5, so there is no way I would even consider using a wheel that I think might be suspect. Yes the dents are probably repairable, but it is also plausable that the structure of the metal could be damaged, maybe even cracked. I can't see £30 even coming close to being enough to get them straightened and crack tested. here's the pics I sent the guy wheel 1 wheel 2
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g40jon
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]I'd be mighty impressed if someone managed to weld aluminium alloy centres to steel barrels, friction or no friction. Friction welding is exactly what you would use to "weld" alloy to steel? Really? Well you learn something new every day. I'm off to google to find out more as I've never heard of such black magic!! Is it a true weld (or at least what I understand to be a weld, as in the melting of two metals to join them together)or is it more of a bonding/forging process, i.e. not really welding? What stops galvanic corrosion from happening? Surely the metals are too dissimilar to actually be welded together? Rather than just make me look like a tit, care to give a bit of insight to the less well educated?!!!!
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Last Edit: Feb 6, 2014 7:36:32 GMT by g40jon
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g40jon
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Hello, I bought these wheels from goldnrust on here. They are 14X6 4X114.3 et13 Rays Engineering wheels, weighing just over 5kgs per corner. I am really struggling to find any information on them, and even Coordsport (the UK importers of Rays Eng.) don't have a clue about them. I spoke to Adrian Clough of Driveright, who is a bit of a wheel guru in the trade, and he thinks that they are alloy centres with steel rims, friction welded together. He also thinks that they must be quite old, as he doesn't remember the design. Tim I'd be mighty impressed if someone managed to weld aluminium alloy centres to steel barrels, friction or no friction. The construction of these wheels was a pretty common method, especially with custom wheel manufacturers. The barrels are all pretty much generic and the wheel centre of what-ever design is dropped into the barrel which is usually heated to give an interference fit, Once aligned the centre is welded into place. SSR/RAYS split rims are built up in a similar fashion, only they are bolted rather than welded. The stickers look like they are ssr/rays. I have owned a few sets and they all have a silver sticker which has the wheel specs no longer written on it!
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g40jon
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I'd be interested to see some pics. Are you ever out in the direction of chipping norton?
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g40jon
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The cast metal boxes have been repainted, but the finish is far from perfect (you can basically see where the boxes weren't rubbed down enough before repainting. Presentable condition with a bit of patina. Flux suspension, whatever that is! 20 watts max, 10 watt rms 4 ohm impedance heavy die cast alloy enclosures. £35 ovbo I would prefer them to be collected from either chipping norton or oxford I will post, but this will be at the buyers risk.
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g40jon
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Jan 31, 2014 21:20:26 GMT
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would consider swaps for bmw e36 goodies
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g40jon
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palermo will be the wheel model. I had some weds rs5s that had some similar gibberish on them!
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g40jon
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Posts: 2,569
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Jan 26, 2014 21:41:58 GMT
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porsche 924 polished metal door handles, good condition, some light pitting and the plastic inserts are a bit brittle due to age. One insert is missing a small chunk, see pic! These are bare of any lock barrel or mechanism, so will need to be transfered from your old ones. Can be fitted to vw golf mk1/2, polo mk2/2f,jetta, scirocco, you will need to swap your locks and mechs over, this is dead easy and if collected I can do this for you. £50 posted ono or £45 ono collected from chipping norton or oxford
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g40jon
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Posts: 2,569
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funny, i found my mx5 is more watertight with the soft-top rather than hardtop fitted. My hardtop wasn't awefull, just leaked a bit around the window seal, till I bought a new seal for it. mx5s are much warmer in the winter with the hardtop fitted.
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g40jon
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Posts: 2,569
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Jan 23, 2014 18:38:02 GMT
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it'll do it again. get a new ignition switch fitted Agree with this, i've done many a polo and Mk3/4 golf with a dodgy ign switch, only problem is the column needs to come off to get the switch out (or is that just the golf that needs the column out) ?? Next it will crank but not fire, as the switch gets worse it starts to loose Ign live when cranking it is a bit of a pig to change on the 6n. I don't think the column come completely out, but there is a bit which is tricky to remove and requires a puller to get off. I had to have one on my 6n years ago. A mate did mine as he had the tools and knowledge to do it, so I just stood and watched! Well worth doing if you would rather know your car stands a good chance of cranking over!!
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g40jon
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Posts: 2,569
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Jan 23, 2014 11:51:56 GMT
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it'll do it again. get a new ignition switch fitted
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g40jon
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I don't know, but seing as markE21 can only use one headunit at a time, why not ask if he would be willing to sell one of them?
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g40jon
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Jan 22, 2014 18:45:13 GMT
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How much are those Nakamichi CD players worth? Look like the sort of thing I need so will keep eye out on eBay. depends where you buy from. In the US, you can pick them up cheaply, but you then have the cost of shipping to factor in. Find one in the EU and you can expect to pay in excess of £150 for the base model (the one shown in this thread is a model up from the base one as far as I am aware). £150 is a bargain when you consider they are probably the ultimate car cd players for playing actual cds rather than mp3/wma encoded cds. Oh, one final thing to add. You can still buy new nakamichi stuff, but it isn't nearly as good as the old stuff. Anything with a nak badge on it capable of mp3 playback is pretty naff and basically trading on the name and reputation nakamichi had.
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Last Edit: Jan 22, 2014 18:48:43 GMT by g40jon
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g40jon
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Posts: 2,569
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Jan 22, 2014 18:33:04 GMT
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Sprayed electric contact cleaner into ignition..then a squirt of WD40 - No Change. Put lights on - lights went to side lights when key turned to start. Do they all do that? Checked battery with multi meter using V - ... setting at 20 No reading. tried on my other two cars - No reading ...what am I doing wrong? As for tapping the starter motor...I will give that a go when I can find the bloody thing! Cheers for all the help you did have the meter set to dc not av volts (not trying to teach you to suck eggs, but it is easilly done) leads plugged into the right sockets, i.e. not in the ones for measuring current (again easilly done, when your in a rush) I take it you just connected the leads direct to the battery?
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g40jon
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Posts: 2,569
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Jan 21, 2014 18:49:22 GMT
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Battery is good . . Ignition switch seems a good option how do I check . . It lights up etc but the final turn to start does nothing the contact cruds up, you can try spraying some wd40 down the ignition barrel in the hope some gets into the switch. I have done this in the past as a get me home measure. To test it you really need to get access to the wiring that plugs into it and test it with a multimeter. If your battery is good you should have 12.5v approx with nothing on and when cranking it over it should drop no lower that 9 or 10 volts. I can't say I have ever had a starter fail in 13 years f polo ownership, but then I have mostly owned mk2/2fs and only 1 6n, so maybe the later cars run less reliable starter motors. The ignition switch is cheaper, so rule that out first!
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