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Oct 25, 2019 19:05:25 GMT
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right, if you have an old compressor to start with it ll make it a lot easier. itll have a pressure cut out switch on it already, so all you need to do is remove the old motor, connect the fridge one, and it should be quite silent. The receiver may be a bit big, not sure it would fit in the cupboard, but it would do for testing. Ill have a look at regulators and see if something that will meter the air supply down to such a low level reliably.
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Oct 25, 2019 18:34:31 GMT
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a compressor from a fridge maybe more like it... connect it to something like a propane bottle Interesting thought. I do have a noisy, crappy compressor in the garage i could use to charge a suitable receiver but i don't know enough about compressed air to be messing with home brew stuff. Id like to be able to keep it all in the same place too so recharging is just a matter of switching it on for a while. This will all be kept in the living room btw, but in a cupboard.
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Oct 25, 2019 18:31:58 GMT
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I seem to remember the Hy-flo pumps we used at school were pretty much silent.. Caveat.. School was a long time ago I have one, a double pump 4 outlet one. I had to open the pistons and tighten them up a bit but i think it struggles to provide quite enough pressure. Its also not silent enough. Its close, but there is still a faint tap tap noise that is too regular to ignore.
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Oct 25, 2019 18:28:22 GMT
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Bedford cf doesnt. It has a chamfered screw that screws into the side of the lifter bucket and acts on the valve tip. Very odd but works quite well. Better than shims i guess. I still have the special tool for adjusting those. Every time i adjust them i curse myself for being too tight to buy one 😂. Still, with new valve seats i shouldnt need to do it often.
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Oct 25, 2019 10:54:49 GMT
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The aquarium pumps supply constantly and has a rule do not have receivers / tanks - new technology over recent years has enabled virtually silent running compressors the 'Bambi' range is excellent and either come with / without receivers - I would have thought it best to invest in a small receiver model with air pressure controlled via combined air regulator / water separator - most models come has a package and are simply plug & play - link below (My wife has run a Bambi for several years and uses it to power a air stapler for her upholstery / retrimming work) www.airsupplies.co.uk/air-compressors/bambi-silent-air-compressorsIf thats the amount of money id have to spend, this is a non starter. Silent pumps and compressors etc are not going to cut it. I need the air supply to be completely sound free, hence needing the air supply to last without the compressor running. I need to charge the receiver, switch off, use the air supply for that session then recharge the receiver before the next use. No need for the initial receiver charging to be quiet though. I currently use a cheapo £10 air pump but they are waaaay too noisy. Ive tried sound proof boxes and even having it in another room but its not ideal. I'm just trying to find a way of having completely noise free low pressure air supply. I have considered trying to run it from a spare tyre!
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Oct 25, 2019 10:29:29 GMT
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I have found out that a 10L tank at 200 bar holds 2000L of air. Not managed to make that a useful fact yet though. So, just a randon example, this has a 6L tank at lets say a max of 100psi... How can i work out how long that would supply 75lph at 2psi if ive switched it off once the tank was full?
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Oct 25, 2019 10:11:18 GMT
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I guess i just need to know how to work out what size tank, at what psi, will provide 375 litres of air at 2psi?
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Oct 25, 2019 10:09:35 GMT
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Hi, Dentists used to use Binks Bullows compressors but I'm sure they use a more modern version nowadays. They do come up on ebay, there's a couple on there now, they tend to peak at about 40 to 50 psi and will run a spray gun. They're very quiet in operation, they are a hydrovane type and so deliver on demand, they have small storage capacity built in and are usually kept in a cupboard by the surgery. A good regulator will be able to control output. In the spirit of the forum they are of course retro. Colin This is on facebook marketplace... picture upload
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Oct 25, 2019 10:07:08 GMT
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I have had a look at a few aquarium pump specs and i think i may need something like 75 lph at 2psi max. I may get away with 50lph at even lower 1psi? The output from the storage tank needs to be constant in both flow and pressure. It can change as the storage tank looses its charge.
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I need a steady, silent supply of low pressure air. I don't know what the pressure or volume of what i need is but its something like half what a small aquarium air pump puts out so not alot! As it needs to be silent i was thinking about using a small compressor to charge a reserve tank then regulating the output from that. I have no idea about this stuff though.
I don't mind if the compressor is noisy. If it takes 5-10 mins of noise to fill a tank to supply 5 hours of constant silent air thats fine.
What i have no clue about is what size compressor i'd need, what size storage tank, how to regulate such a low supply of air with fine control, how much pressure id need to last for a few hours etc.
Anyone know how i could work out whats needed, or how i could guesstimate whats likely? I'm hoping this can be achieved with a small air brush compressor or similar but i don't know how much stored air at what kind of pressure would be needed. Although the supply i need is small, i need that supply to last quite a long time really.
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Oct 24, 2019 18:58:52 GMT
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I thought lifter = tappet; the device that contacts the cam love? I’ve not come across a solid (non-hydraulic) one which didn’t use shims if direct acting. There needs to be an adjustability in the system somewhere. Bedford cf doesnt. It has a chamfered screw that screws into the side of the lifter bucket and acts on the valve tip. Very odd but works quite well. Better than shims i guess.
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Oct 20, 2019 19:29:24 GMT
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Didnt know this was on! The econoline in the first pic lives a couple of doors down from me, drives past my house regularly. Sounds great.
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Oct 20, 2019 18:40:55 GMT
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Pete - I have done a few over the years - providing that you take your time and undertake the repair properly it will be lasting repair - talk to The Furniture Clinic and see what they can offer you has a kit - or they may know someone that can undertake the repair if you don't want to do it yourself - when I last undertook some research for a clients fully padded dash a few years ago I could not locate a single repairer in Europe - they are a handful in the States - the fully padded dashes are vacuum formed - your dash pad is only a long slim piece and lacks any intricate details and I cant see why it can not be recovered in a suitable grained vinyl if cant be repaired - link to The Furniture Clinic below (I have been using their products for many years) www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/I used their products to repair alot of bad damage to a leather chesterfield sofa and recolour it from red to black. I can also vouch for their products. As a side note though, not that it should worry many of us, but cat/dog flee treatment (the type you put on their neck) will quickly and completely strip the new colour off leather. Only really a consideration on here if you have recoloured your seats and take a pet out in the car.
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Oct 20, 2019 13:03:44 GMT
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I have a plastic repair kit. It's not suitable for this, one of the dash kits would be though, but mine came with a sort of plastic block. You heat it in hot water then press it onto the plastic. It takes the form of the grain. You then use this to imprint the grain on the new fillered areas.
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Powder coat shouldnt chip, but i hear it often does. It never used to chip, if it is doing now then something has changed. Fire was the only way I have found to remove it in the past other than grinder action. As so many people seem to dislike it due to chipping i can only assume its either not true, powder coat tech has got worse, or no one is prepping or applying it right. I think maybe folk are getting it done at places that just don't care and normally coat cheap garden furniture. This then leads to a general bad reputation of powder coat.
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Last Edit: Oct 19, 2019 9:43:14 GMT by VW
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I knew a car sprayer who had one exactly the same in the mid 90s. At the time i just couldnt get my head around how odd it was. It looked the same colour as that though but i would have said it was blue. He repainted it in the original colour. Is that its original colour?
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Oct 18, 2019 12:32:52 GMT
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Powder coat shouldnt chip, but i hear it often does.
One of my first jobs involved a bit of powder coating. Nothing exciting, chair frames and stuff like that. First one off the line was beaten with a hammer, mashing the tube up. If it chipped or flaked off the batch didnt pass inspection. I wouldnt use it under a car though but purely because it seems to be hard to find anyone decent these days. It was 25 years ago i was doing it. I have had a motorbike frame or two done. Alot of folk don't like it on bike frames but i found a decent firm (gone now) and they did a great job. Not too thick, properly prepped, great finish, properly stuck on!
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Oct 17, 2019 10:39:54 GMT
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I guess the key element to that is 'new' shell.
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I'm still unfamiliar with epoxy lroducts although i do have some epoxy primer. Ive used it, but not on a vehicle (works very well on varnished wood though!) Can you explain the difference between epoxy primer and epoxy mastic? I see very similar looking products using each name. Thanks, always informative Both are 2 pack products hence they are cured with a catalyst hardener - the primer is utilised for priming substrate areas that have been the subject of work - can be used on the vast majority of surfaces and adheres very well to bare metal - it can be worked / sanded & keyed once cured - epoxy mastics are more intended for industrial & marine purposes and provide a dense / thick protective coating over metals - for reasons already expressed within the thread I would not recommend it for automotive use Thanks, as i suspected, but it was unclear from searching for products.
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Oct 16, 2019 20:54:35 GMT
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look at what any pro restoration shop or decent bodyshop uses , its all epoxy these days , also what they paint marine stuff with so someone must think it protect in salty water no need to stay in the past , do your own research you wont find many folk moaning about epoxys i could write a book about being stuck in the past , could call it "i say what i like and like what i say" , don't mean I'm right though I am a professional restoration company - have been for a long time with a equally long list of accolades - you wont find many restoration companies / bodyshops that don't know what they are doing slapping hard setting epoxy coatings on the underside of vehicles nor will you find any new vehicle manufacture doing likewise - compounds used on underbody structures need to be of a flexible / rubberised coating that deflect impact but also flex with the vehicles structure whilst expanding & contacting to the many operating temperature cycles that vehicles operate in Hard setting compounds that are manufactured for marine & industrial use do not hold the same impact resistance they tend to crack on impact hence letting moisture through - quite often in a capillary method and allowing rust to ingress under the coating and you will not find out until its too late You will however find epoxy primers used in abundance within the motor industry / motor trade and very good they are too but epoxy mastics & epoxy primers are two very different products Nothing to do with staying in the past but is a fundamental matter of using the right products for the right job I'm still unfamiliar with epoxy lroducts although i do have some epoxy primer. Ive used it, but not on a vehicle (works very well on varnished wood though!) Can you explain the difference between epoxy primer and epoxy mastic? I see very similar looking products using each name. Thanks, always informative
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