foxy99
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That's interesting about the grub-screws 93fxdlHave to admit I would have never thought of that. Does screwing them inwards release the castor from its mounting?
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,390
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This is a big gap tho 93fxdlI remember one ball-bearing being missing on my push-bike headrace and the noise it made was quite alarming. I tried 12 in one wheel the other night and iirc there was stil plenty room for grease and movement but I'll have another look
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Last Edit: Oct 2, 2023 17:36:14 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,390
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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I've seen the site but didn't realise you can contact the guy.Cheers
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,390
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Sept 30, 2023 23:30:03 GMT
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Not got any pics worth posting really but (with a heavy hangover) I kinda made progress on the castors today.... I got the oxy-acetylene on it, albeit with a very small nozzle (as I'd been trying to weld thin sheet recently and CBA changing it) and with some WD40 and lots of whacking with the impact driver the better screw started to turn, but only a fraction either way The slot in the screw (and my bit) were both getting mullered so I ended up just welding the lock-nut onto the screw and trying to unwind it with a spanner but this wasn't immediate. Eventually it came out and the reason was apparent.... The screw had broken about halfway down and one half was catching on the other when I was trying to turn it. When these things happen (and you are hungover and the weather is curse word so the barn is damp) it's tempting just to chuck everything in the fu**-it-bucket and move on but I persevered. Many years ago (trying to remove corroded exhaust-studs from an XJR1300 engine) I came up with an idea of drilling down a tube to get dead centre of any offending stud so I tried a bit of that. Small tube down the hole and drilled a 3mm(?) hole quite clean in centre. I then tried to widen this out with 5mm(?) LH drill-bits (bought for the XJR saga) and suddenly things went wrong. I've no idea how but suddenly everything was off-centre but not actually in the threads. I couldn't go any wider with the drilling as it would take away threads on one side so tried punching the remains of the screw downwards then going in again with the 5mm LH bit to see if it would catch a ragged bit and spin it out. This wasn't making anything worse or better then I couldn't find my chuck-key and gave up for the day
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Sept 29, 2023 16:55:32 GMT
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Thanks jimiThat's good to know about the gland-packing I still don't get the bit about the air-bleed but then again I don't understand how the pump works yet. Saw a really good video on YouTube about it but the system looks totally different to mine. From these pics can you say which part of mine is the fluid-reservoir and which is the output? view down bore with lid removedthese parts under the lid all go inside the ram tubetop of pump/ram assyunderside of pump/ram assy
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Last Edit: Sept 29, 2023 23:51:12 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,390
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Sept 29, 2023 14:24:55 GMT
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So I started cleaning (degreasing) all the bits last night which is also a good way of examining everything and I have to say just about every part is showing wear of some sort. I know this thing is old and may have been used hard but it doesn't actually do any significant mileage lol. So why are the wheels and shafts so worn? Despite having grease points everywhere I'n guessing it was never serviced but then why does it show signs of having been dismantled before? Tbh the wear isn't that important as long as it lifts stuff safely so I may persevere with this but right now it's just stopping my from working on my Hillman Imp pick-up which has to be finished ASAP. One part of the jack that I haven't managed to take apart yet is the rear castors. They are seized on their vertical shafts(?), so don't swivel, but the wheels themselves do spin on their axles. I'm guessing there are ball-bearings between 2 thick 'washers' above the wheels so could probably get things moving again by tapping and lubricating in there but I'd like to get the assemblies off the frame completely and service them on the bench. The shafts presumably go up into the turrets visible from above but there are grub-screws seized into the turrets which must prevent the shafts from coming down. One screw still has its locknut. I don't understand what this arrangement was for tho. Why would you need an adjustable design? Anyway I've been at the one with the better screw with a Propane torch and an impact-driver trying to loosen it but it's not budging. There is a drilling on the opposite side of the screw so I could perhaps get penetrating fluid in there but it would probably just reach the shaft, not the threads on other side. Also can't see if this drilling is threaded. If it was I could drill out the existing side (ruining the threads) then put new screws in from the other side. Will try a bit more heat or welding nuts on to the screws or something first. Anyway here are a few pics relating to things I mentioned above and in previous post. Plus a few randoms. frame is not 2 totally separate halves. joined in 2 places towards front endthese notches govern where handle rests. looks like 1 got bentthese are the seals which were stacked on top of each other on the pump shaftrear castors do not swivel. presume there are ball-bearings in here somewherecastors must have vertical shafts which disappear into these turrets which have grub-screws in themgrub-screw on this side is in better condition and has its locknut but is stuck in casting
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Last Edit: Sept 29, 2023 14:25:35 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Sept 28, 2023 14:12:17 GMT
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So I got the whole thing stripped down over a couple of evenings but have lost a load of pics so will need to re-take them. The only things that really surprised me is that the main frame isn't actually in 2 separate halves. It is welded together with a bar underneath near the front and the tube that the axle/spindle for the front wheels goes thru is also permanently fixed between the sides. There is enough flex in the frame to remove the ram/pump once all the bolts and bars have been removed. I was also surprised by the complexity of the pump/ram. Watching videos on YouTube etc I was expecting the mechanism(s) to just be a couple of ball-bearings with springs down some drillings but on this the whole hydraulic assy comes out when you remove an end-plate/cover. It all looks clean and in good order but it's obviously been apart before as almost every part shows signs of rough-handling and there is a score mark (for alignment) between two of the main parts. There are also no conventional seals. The two rods which do the pump and pump-release go thru seals but they are made of asbestos or something. Definitely not rubber. The seal for the main pump rod was actually 6 of these stacked on top of each other. Am not sure I can face the hassle of trying to locate new ones jack broken down into many bits 'lid' removed from pump has lots of nicks on the sealing face small seal for pump release-rod this plug on ram end of pump assy looks to have been tampered with before
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,390
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Sept 28, 2023 0:01:47 GMT
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Hi guys. Just to say I forgot I started a thread on this years ago (with almost identical title!) and will be continuing the updates on the original thread
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Last Edit: Sept 28, 2023 0:02:57 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,390
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Sept 27, 2023 23:59:34 GMT
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Last Edit: Sept 28, 2023 14:00:51 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Sept 21, 2023 16:52:39 GMT
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You can blame some of that on the price of scrap. What sensible business would deal with hobbyists who suck up a huge amount of time, when they could just chuck the offcuts in a scrap bin and get the same amount of money when it's collected by a professional? What is the price of scrap these days? I reckon they'd get about 30p for that 92cm bit of 30mm x 30mm Hobbyists sucking up a huge amount of time? The place was empty and it took the lady around 5 minutes to prepare the invoice
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Sept 20, 2023 22:20:36 GMT
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Yip that's what I expected homersimpsonHaving said that I think I still got it at a reduced price but I don't know for sure. They should just write on the offcuts £3; £7; £12 or whatever so you know what to expect at the counter. You'd look like a bit of a fud, after they do all the calculating, going 'oh right, £25?... I was expecting it to be less, ehm I'll just put them back. Thanks'
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,390
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Sept 20, 2023 14:07:01 GMT
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Well that's that resolved - sort of I got an immediate reply (email this morning) saying only the narrow bit (the 30 x 30) was 3mm and the other two were 5mm and that the pics I emailed weren't accessible and to come back to have the metal re-measured I therefore sent another few emails with more explanation and pics as attachments, rather than inline/from the Cloud. Next minute the manager is emailing asking for my number but I'm on my way to work so can't take calls. I go and do some work-related stuff (like a 50 mile round-trip) and actually pass very close to the depot and aim to go back once I've dealt with the work stuff. I end up thinking 'is it worth this hassle for a few £s and if they are going to refund me they have all the information they need' and just head home rather than detour the short distance to the depot. Get home. No reply from lady in office or confirmation that she can she pics or anything but another email from manager asking to call him to 'get this sorted out'. Sounds ominous . I reply saying that's me home. He calls immediately. We go back thru the machinations of it and he tells me the 3mm is actually dearer than the 5mm and due to burring it would have been measured as 5mm not 3mm. He says 3mm is like 18.whatever unit-price and the 5mm is only 17.whatever due to how long they may have been on the shelf or something. Seems odd but I do remind him that I got them from the offcuts section and the prices were much lower than what he's saying (so sounds like I got a good deal whether they were right or wrong). And that was about it. I'm still none the wiser NB 'burring' is something to do with metal melting at really high temperatures. I think that's what he explained anyway
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Last Edit: Sept 20, 2023 14:10:38 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,390
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Sept 19, 2023 20:51:04 GMT
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So I got some new angle-iron today - metric of course It's some 50mm x 50mm to replace the 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" stuff shown above plus a bit of 30mm x 30mm which I think is about right to repair the bottoms of the inner-support pieces shown earlier. I wasn't planning to take pics of the metal and make a post tonight but looking at the invoice half an hour ago I find I've been charged for 'bigger' stuff and ended up taking pics to email them in hope of getting some money refunded. I specifically bought 3mm stuff (but saw they had 5mm) and the woman who served me was very friendly and took some measurements before making up the invoice but I noticed she didn't check the thickness and also didn't notice it was written on one of the lengths. This actually brings me to my next gripe... The company advertise on Facebook about their 'offcuts section' and how it's great for the DIYer so you imagine it'll be some sort of good deal you'll get on odds n ends they can't sell like normal stock. Anyway you get there and there are no prices on any of the bits so you take what you need and go to the front desk with it and next minute they're out with the calculator working out the exact price. The woman today actually said 'I'll just put the two 90cm bits thru as one 1.8m' as if it was some sort of help to me. So I'm thinking by that logic if you found ten 30cm bits on the shelf (which they wouldn't be able to sell normally) would they put that thru as one 3m bit? There should be some discount for odds n ends or 'short bits'. I would've actually been better off with a 1.8m bit as I'm sure these bits I got are going to be a bit short to go right across the width of the trailer. Anyway it's done now but I don't think I'll be going back. Having said that the last time I went i got some big discount at the end but God knows what it was for or how the guy worked it out or why I didn't get it today. Was also thinking coming home about how the high cost of the steel sort of forces you to retain more of the original trailer. Like I'd been thinking for a while would it not be quicker/better to just junk all the old angle-iron and replace it with new stuff but at these prices it would be about £150-£200 for it all £25 worth of angle-iron size written on one of the main bits looks quite thick 3mm? invoice error? I'm guessing my stuff would be priced somewhere in between the two values underlined EDIT just looking at prices online it seems that even if there was an error today I'm still getting very good VFM... 1m of 50mm x 50mm x 5mm seems to be around £25 which would be unit price of 25.00 against the 9.89444 shown on my invoice or for the 30mm x 30mm x 3mm it's about but then I see a listing for 6m lengths of 50mm x 50mm x 3mm and they are only £25.45 each which would be a unit price of 4.24167 which seems very cheap. You could do the whole trailer in that lol. Anyway we'll see what they say to my email
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Last Edit: Sept 19, 2023 21:54:34 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,390
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Sept 19, 2023 10:18:46 GMT
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First step should be cleaning it, hydraulics and dirt don't play well together. Check oil condition and level, Then test to see where the fault is, Since it lifts ok, the pump must be working To creep down under load, the most likely culprits will be the one way valve or the lowering valve, the other alternative is the seal on the lifting ram Make sure the lowering valve is fully closing Try to force ang dirt out ove the vaves, by taking it to maximum, then pump some more to open the presure relif valve. Next place a load on it and let it down rapidly to flush the lowering valve If it still creeps under load, then is the time to start pulling it apart Ttfn Glenn Sounds like sound advice 93fxdlThanks
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,390
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Sept 18, 2023 9:05:57 GMT
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Ok so the bits pictured above are all painted now (Hammerite blue Hammered) but ay pics I took were no good as I broke my decent camera and the flash is just bouncing off the painted parts. The axle is off and has been in the electrolysis so once that's dried-off and wire-brushed it should be ready for paint. Have also been removing the most rusted frame-section. That's the front lower transverse one. It was welded (badly) onto the side and vertical parts but also to a collar/strap attached to the main drawbar/tube. axle in electrolysisfront corner (RHS) where 3 sections meet. transverse rail is last onLHS front upright with remains of side and transverse rails on it transverse rail is also welded to middlerail released from hoop on main tube
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,390
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Sept 18, 2023 8:57:05 GMT
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I will be repainting it but want to make sure it's working first It's too big for man-cave art. Needs to be functional NB it's going to be in Violet Hammerite (discontinued colour)
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Sept 18, 2023 8:17:13 GMT
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Thanks for that kevinsDo you know if the sides of the jack need to be taken off to get to the gland-nuts etc?
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,390
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Sept 17, 2023 16:35:28 GMT
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So I have had this for years but it was always too big to get into my car to take to the workshop proper and work on it. Many years ago I jacked a friend's car with it and it wouldn't stay up so I'm thinking one of more seals need replaced. It seems to me there is a large hydraulic side (the ram?) and a small one (the pump?) Looks to me it's mb the pump that needs sorted on mine So where do you start? I guess you take off the sides of the whole frame then treat each hydraulic section separately big old jackram?pump?
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,390
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Sept 15, 2023 21:59:05 GMT
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Well I got my new wheel today and am amazed to say it fits very well. The only difference I can see is that there in no provision in the rear of the hub/housing for an oil seal (to protect the bearing). The bearings are RS (rubber-sealed) so perhaps an oil-seal isn't deemed as necessary but I would have preferred it to be the same. I was concerned about the dimensions (length) of the hub actually, before it arrived. Was thinking even if the bearings fit the axle/shaft might not have the right dimensions to get the nut on or would need packers/spacers. However it goes on right to the shoulder that the oil-seal would sit and and plenty room out front for the original nut c/w washer. I've not examined the markings on the tyre yet but it says DOT & high speed trailer so I think it'll be legal/safe replacement wheelseems to fit finesome info on tyreold bearing is similar size to new oneno oil-seal at rear but snug fit on shaft and against shoulder on axleAm thinking I will now repair the corroded original rim, somehow, and mount it as a spare
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Last Edit: Sept 15, 2023 22:08:14 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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