foxy99
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Dec 18, 2012 23:19:35 GMT
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Last Edit: Dec 20, 2012 3:05:57 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,443
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Hi again Good Scrap. I took your advice and just happened to have a saucer almost exactly same radius. I emailed the vendor my details which is 57mm CLR and asked if he could put 2 ends on a piece of pipe. He relied to say that the tightest he can do is 63mm, which is probably ok, but the price has jumped to £22.50 plus £7.50 p&p I was expecting 2 x £4 plus a little for the straight section (the original listing is £4 a bend). If I can't find any other options that will need to do I suppose.
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,443
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Dec 15, 2012 19:19:00 GMT
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Thanks mirafioriman. I may try the gel sometime. Sounds too good to be true but it would be ideal for things that were too big to dip. It would be pretty easy for a firm to replicate the tank I guess but I imagine they'd charge a fortune. Not much to update just now despite making it to the barn 4 or 5 nights each of the last couple of weeks. I've spent most of the time filling/sanding/re-filling the wheelarch repairs. I reckon they're going to come up pretty damn good once they are painted. I've also been assessing the coolant pipe and expansion tank with a view to repairing them. Found a guy on Ebay who sells curves. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Inch-25-4mm-Outside-Diameter-Mild-Steel-Tube-Pipe-90-Degree-Bend-1-5mm-Wall-/330645254032?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D4179369175354626229%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D330645254032%26Reminds me of the Vic & Bob thing where Bob is trying to sing his song at the end of the show and Vic is rushing him because they're selling cheap curves at the ironmongers ;D If the guy can put a bend on each end of a piece of pipe it means I can replicate the coolant pipe by reusing the upright bit (filler neck). I also bought another set up IRS mounts. Used ones for about the same price as new ones. This might seem stupid but the seller said they were off a Series 1 car so I thought (hoped) they would be the elusive early part number ones. On receipt tho it's clear they are not the originals which would've been highly unlikely and they don't seem to fit either. Worth a try tho. horizontal part of coolant pipe might be available for about £10 of Ebayfiller neck is in good condition and could be removed from horizontal pipe to transfer to new sectionshould be straightforward to replicate this 1.5" downpipe section c/w 5/16" outlet on a new pipestumbling block for curve dealer may be tight centre line radius. approx 2.25"/57mm. Ones on Ebay listing are 76mmmore IRS mounts. £40 worth of 2nd hand ones which don't fit any better than the otherslabels were part peeled off but fully removing them revealed strange blue backing which at least showed they were a matching setproblem still exists that inner holes are further apart than outers
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Last Edit: Dec 15, 2012 19:34:30 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,443
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Cheers. That's good advice
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Dec 13, 2012 21:04:48 GMT
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I spotted this useful item on Ebay (need tube with curved ends to replicate part of a coolant crosspipe for my Jag V12) www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330645254032?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649In the description the seller gives the centre line radius as 76mm Anyone know how I would establish the centre line radius of the ends of mine? might be possible to repair/replicate corroded end of coolant pipe with Ebay item abovehow to work out centre line radius? draw a circle inside curve and measure from middle of circle to middle of pipe?
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,443
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That's pretty good work for your first attempt at welding.
Have you got any better pics of the car-roller? where it attaches to body etc? I have an Imp as my next project so I'm curious
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,443
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Thanks GT4ME. I'm just taking the attitude of 'go every night I can no matter how cold it is and I can enjoy the fruits of my labour in the 10 days summer we get' What I am pleased about is that the vacuum flaps on the air filter housings are still working fine. I'm guessing it's some sort of rubber diaphragm inside them and I thought being nearly 40 years old and being dipped for days would have put an end to them. I tried bunging up the outlet pipes but not sure it worked. Suffice to say they are snapping open and shut with mouth suction Was looking for expansion tanks online last night and there seems to be at least 4 types and none of them were same as mine. They are also around £150 and some were located in Australia so shipping would be expensive therefore repair seems to be the best option
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
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Well. I took Wednesday off to watch Celtic qualify for the last 16 of the Champions League but if they hadn't got through I could've won up to £430 which would've came in handy for bits and pieces for the project. Would've also been handy for one of many bills I have to pay. Had to pay my oxy-acetylene cylinder rental to BOC yesterday. £140 what the f**k do you actually get for that!? Leaves me almost bankrupt this month. Last night however I got down and got some primer on the airboxes plus a bit more on the lids. At least everything now has some paint on it. Also pulled the expansion tank out of the DeoxC for examination. Now that it's cleaned up I'm pretty confident it can be repaired quite easily. Main problem will be fixing the internal pipes but should be do-able
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
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Mk2 Polo breadvan was my first car (had 3 - all 1043cc Y, A & B reg) and I loved the way they handled. Amazing wee things. I spent a lot of money on big wheels and low suspension and it was horrendous. I reckon keep the ride height as it is. Might not look mean but nice to drive
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,443
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That's good to know Volksangyl
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,443
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Not much of an update. Sort of half an update but it's Monday and back to business.... I've mentioned DeoxC before and am sure a lot of people will have heard of it. Every product has some drawbacks but I can say that I am happy with this stuff and would use it again. It's about £40 for the big bag which is quite expensive and you are supposed to mix it up with hot water which is not something everyone has in their garage and you obviously need a lot of water and a big tub if you plan to dip large items but once you get past all that it is good stuff. The main appeal is it does the work quietly while you are home watching TV or sleeping. I spend a lot of time afterwards rinsing and drying the stuff before applying paint but that's not too bad. I wouldn't advise dipping half of a large item then turning it round if your tub is too small as you get a line etched into the metal where the part exits the solution. I emptied my tub on Friday night and found a lot of sludge at the bottom which I assumed was a by-product of the process but as I was mixing up a new batch I began to think it was undissolved DeoxC. The tub I'm using mist hold about 40 litres and I was boiling up 5L of water at a time then mixing parts of the bag in but as it is so cold just now the water must've been cooling down too quickly to dissolve the stuff so for the last batch I poured the powder direct into the 5L jug of boiling water and it dissolved almost immediately so I would suggest anyone doing it try it that way. You obviously aren't going to be able to keep the mixture warm but I reckon if you dissolve the stuff well at the start it will work better. Incidentally the manufacturers do say immersion heaters etc greatly improve its performance but, again, we don't all have these things. Lets just say I used half a bag in a huge tub of water in very cold weather and when I returned tonight the parts were pickled clean. One last point is that I opened my bag a couple of months ago, used half and stuck the remainder inside the rolling of another car in the barn. When I retrieved it on Friday night it was pouring out of little holes all over the bag. I never see signs or mice in the barn but there were a few droppings near where the bag had been. Why would a mouse want to eat DeoxC? previous batch of DeoxC emptied out reveals sludge. chemical by-product or undissolved DeoxC?comes in 3 sizes. this is middle option - 4kg bag. approx £40 plus P&Pdetailed instructions but basically 'dissolve in water'. holes in bag caused by hungry mouseairbox lids clean. inside.......and outbodies almost ready too but I forgot to remove paint from inside spouts so a bit more dipping needed there
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Last Edit: Dec 4, 2012 2:53:28 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,443
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I really like the interior in the blue car. Hopefully you can save or replicate this. Graham
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,443
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One of the next items to assess/repair/replace is the coolant expansion tank. It lives on the LHS inner wing towards the headlights and I never suspected there would be anything wrong with it as it looked fine from above. It came out when I was removing the radiator etc and I found the bottom was paper thin. You can get new ones at a price but the position of the various outlet pipes changed throughout production, much like the coolant crosspipe, so the ones I see coming up at decent prices on Ebay are tempting to buy but not always correct for my car. expansion tank with hoses still connected. will all need replaced but good for reference purposes bit of heat on ends frees them off as they are usually stuck fast. tank looks ok from here and neck and back panel are sound but underside paper thin they are probably all like his inside. scary
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Last Edit: Dec 4, 2012 2:16:01 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,443
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Well. That's the main body of the LHS air filter housing stripped of paint. Doesn't seem a big dividend for 4 hours work (plus 2 hours walking to and from the barn) but, like that saying about monkeys/typewriters/works of Shakespeare, I reckon if I keep at it - it has to be finished one day. last part of air filter housing ready for dipping
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Last Edit: Nov 30, 2012 1:18:00 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
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Nothing too exciting tonight but every little step counts and progress is progress especially in the winter months. You need to keep at it. I took the day of to clear out a lock-up I have rented from the council for years. They have let them go to rack & ruin and still keep putting the rent up. Final straw was when I found out off a guy in the street that they have cut the 32V electricity supply off forever without telling us. It was only enough to power a special bulb but it now means you cant really find anything after dark. Coupled with the fact that the roof leaks and the doors are knackered this was the end. I used it to store a trailer and road compressor I have plus as an overflow for parts taken off the project car which are in the way. Anyway I found the LHS airbox so took it down to the barn tonight to strip the paint off. Nothing much to say apart from this one has a lot more of its fittings still attached and also has a rubber seal on the lid which is missing from the other. I would never have know there should be one there so quite pleased to know that. The paint was also a lot tougher to shift off this one so I didn't quite get it finished tonight. airbox no. 2 - LHS has vacuum hose/bolt/jubilee clip which were absent from RHSstill has sensor and filter inside toowonder if it still workslid has plastic seal which was also absent from other onelid stripped and ready to dip in rust remover
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
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Nov 28, 2012 15:31:33 GMT
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Great work and perseverance.
I notice the original forward boot floor was covered in captive nuts. Will you need to replicate these or were they redundant?
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Posts: 1,443
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Nov 28, 2012 14:52:35 GMT
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It must be extremely disappointing after all you preparatory work and organisation to be told the blaster won't be able to do certain parts.
There is no reason whatsoever that it can't all be done by using a lighter blasting media/lower pressure on delicate areas.
It may be that they don't have the time/inclination to deviate from their normal practices.
DIY blasting pots can be annoying/troublesome to use but when you do get the grit flowing they will take any rust off and not damage the metal. You are only blasting at 60-100 psi.
What media and blasting pressures is your contractor using?
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
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After stripping down the LHS carbs last week I dug out the RHS ones which, going by the newspaper thay are wrapped in, I rebuilt back in 2001 Maybe I was richer then but I'm seriously considering just cleaning the other 2 and maybe even making my own gaskets as it would cost a couple of hundred to fully rebuild them. The bypass valves at £14 and the temperature compensators are about £25. The float bowl plugs are £13 and a set of screws for each carb is about £13 again. There is also P&P on all these. There is a lot of chat online (Triumph forums) about the Stromberg CD175 carbs and specifically about the bypass valves and temperature things. If the diaphragm is spilt inside the bypass valv it is supposed to give probs on the over-run (I could live with that) but more worryingly a very high idle. I sucked on the outlet pipe on each one and am getting suction so I don't think the rubbers are spilt so will take a chance on them being ok. The temp compensators seem to be causing confusion as ppl are talking about them opening at 120 or 140 degrees but another guy said it is 20 degrees and that the 120 figure is the angle of the seat on the plunger. I also read that new ones have faulty plungers and don't seat properly and it's better to check and adjust the old ones. As for the float plugs... I think I'll just put petrol in them (off the car) and see if they leak or not. Perhaps I'm just reading the bits that suit me but I don't think the carbs look at all complex compared to the Solex PIC(T) 7 on my Polo so I'm not really worried about it. RHS carb rebuilt with new gaskets back in 2001 new float bowl plugs are approx £13. leave as is or but new?RHS carbs got new gaskets all round. probably new float valves toocarb to manifold gasket missing on this onebut still present on this. smear with Hermitite or buy new?must've scratched throttle plate when removing screws many moons agobypass valves have rubber diaphragm inside. £14 for new assemblieshard to tell from underneath what condition they are in but sucking on vent pipe suggests ok insidebi-metal spring activated temperature compensators apparently serviceable. confusion re opening temp per internet forums
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Last Edit: Nov 28, 2012 3:20:10 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
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I was up till the early hours this morning straightening out the last post I made (putting the pictures in order with captions etc) and also using the RR search facility to find the sub-thread I had on about the rear arch repair panels fit-issues. I couldn't find it then today at work tried Googling 'XJ6 arch repair ' and it was the first hit Anyway. Here it is retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=techni&thread=111592&page=1 but memory can be a bit deceiving as I imagined it had more debate about the panels and forgot it led to pictures of the repairs to the passenger side which is a duplicate of what I was planning to post next
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Last Edit: Nov 27, 2012 1:24:37 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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