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May 26, 2017 12:47:40 GMT
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Today I finally got round making the burner... I ordered a smaller bit of pipe & reducer. I took a piece of a bottle jack, some left over brass and turned me a bit of - er - basically pipe to extend the nozzle into the big pipe. Looks a bit weird, but I just used what I had at hand. It's adjustable so I can point it right at the center of the tube. Next I made a simple throttle to adjust the amount of air passing through. And hey - it actually works! Played around with the setting a bit, until it started to smell like burned stuff... This thing has quite a lot of power! Cheers, Jan
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May 21, 2017 10:20:25 GMT
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Yeah, I know... I weld W124s for a living. The thing is; once there's an opportunity, I'll have a look. If it's rusted, it is allready rusted. So all that differs is the size of the patch I need. And no matter what size - it's allways the same amount of work. This car has a lot of little issues and a spot of rust here and there. But I'm not going to restore it. I keep on doing what has always been done; drive it. Maintain it. Fix it. Everything that needs doing will be done - just not at once. A lot of people seem to dive nose first into a full on restauration. and after they'r done, they don't drive it or have grown distant from the car and sell it on. I want to avoid having a car that's "too good to drive every day". It's a Taxi after all. It's meant to be driven. Maintained. Fixed. Whenever necessary. Re: sensible backup car; it's american, that's all I'm going to say. More once it's collected Cheers, Jan
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Nah, not that silly. Apparently it can do 18MPG
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May 19, 2017 19:40:09 GMT
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Oh brilliant... We had a severe-ish rain storm tonight and in the morning: Big puddle of water on the driver's floor mat - and of course a wet driver's seat. So I arrived with a wett a$$ at work, really pi$$ed and in bad mood. After work I got a dry space in the workshop, so investigated.
To cut it short: the almost new windscreen came loose in both upper corners (I can push it off the frame...), which of course let in a metric sh!t ton of water. Probably has for a longer period of time, since lately the car was damp inside and I had wind noises coming from the top of the windscreen for a couple of weeks... I didn't even bother to have a look under the carpet. To prevent my arteries from exploding.
I'm a bit less than impressed, since i payed for it myself. Not that it matters that it needs replacing AGAIN. Current major stone chip count is now at FIVE. A lot of money spent to go back to zero. Not sure if I am to give the glass guy a second chance. If I do, HE is certainly NOT the one to bring the screen. Stupid poor quality, the screen is completely sand blasted and it's less than half a year old.
At least I have more time to de-rust and paint etc. the screen frame, since I just bought a totally sensible and reasonable backup-car.
Cheers, Jan
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May 16, 2017 20:45:09 GMT
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And today I replaced both engine & differential oil. The diff oil has now seen about 100.000km, time to replace it i think. There's no service sheduled replacement for this, but 100k sounds reasonable ^found out an W123 oil pan is a perfect fit inside the frame of the jack of our 4-post lift Cheers, Jan
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May 15, 2017 20:21:55 GMT
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Thank you all!!! But to be honest; I did only 1/10th of the work. But still - it's quite incredible. It's often that when I'm driving this car that I think "fcuck man, you car has almost a million kilometers on it and still never misses a beat. How the EFF is that even possible!?". And when the counter reset... I had this grin on my face, the whole rest of the day. And when I took place in the passenger seat this morning and the odometer read "15" - my grin was even bigger. It'll come off the road this year though, for some serious restoration work. The rear suspension needs a freshen up, there's a rust issue with the rear windows - and some little things. But one thing's for sure; this car that I bought as a winter car, it will stay. It has truly earned it's place in my garage. Current mileage: 1.000.156km Cheers, Jan
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May 14, 2017 19:13:59 GMT
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Not quite 2 weeks... In fact; today was the day. I reset the counter on the Taxi, finally a millionaire
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May 14, 2017 11:49:55 GMT
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Probably is, but molten iron is a LOT hotter than say aluminium... Making a possible accident much more severe. Say a bit too much moisture in you mould, a spill-over - all a lot worse with white-hot molten iron. I guess. I don't know. But I'm not planing on doing iron any time soon. Mainly because I think aluminium is all I need - and mostly because I have an almost infinite supply of free cast aluminium. That's one of the benefits of working in a garage; I take all the forged/cast aluminium parts with me. No alu enters our scrap bin (unless it's oily). I've been doing this for a long time now. I've not put it on a scale, but it's a lot. I guess close to 100kg. My thought was, that this is already the correct alloy for aluminium casts. Re: vacuume forming; that's a very interesting process I did not know of until now! Thanks for mentioning it, this could be exactly what I need!! Cheers, Jan
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May 12, 2017 19:03:28 GMT
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Aroused polo mint - oh my It's a furnace, to melt metals. I want to melt some metal and pour it. Not purely because I have an demand for it, but because I want to do it. I have a couple of little things that I want to cast. And I want to master another technique that I can add to my portfoilio of crafts
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Thanks! I was not aware of this until now Cheers, Jan
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Most probably pidgeon sh!t Seriously; I wanted to do this for many, many years... First project will be to try to cast some center caps for a couple of wheels I have. Then some covers for my Steinbock trolley jacks. Plus whatever comes in, it's mostly a craft I want to master Well, I got my burner tube after all... And. I don't know. I must have missed something. But it's nowhere near to 2 & 3", but more like 3 2/3 and 2 3/8"... I don't know, maybe this is British vs. American inches or it's East Lebanese Plumbers inch - clue me up if you know Point being; it's way bigger than the 2" exhaust pipe I have stiking out of my furnace... Cheers, Jan
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And guess the next little project... I guess this was an easy one. Unfortunately, two cut to bits thin walled plastic buckets are not enough to withstand the pressure of the refractory, so my fire proof hole ended up eccentric and with a bit of a funny shape. Whatever... Should do the job:D And much to my disliking, the fire extinquisher I chose to serve as a crucible - turned out to be made of aluminium... D'oh! After 30h, I pulled out the buckets and smoothed the walls with a layer of refractory, to fill little air bubbles and indentations. Anyway, the postage service messed up delivery of my burner tube - so that's all I can do with this right now. Watching concrete dry. Soo interesting! Cheers, Jan
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Soo, long time no worky-worky on little engine... But it's not like nothing happened. I took some pieces of tube, scrap and a 10mm rod. And cut it all apart. And welded it back together. ^that piece on the end... It liftet that much from welding. Should have clamped it, but was too lazy. Still does the job -and tought me a lesson (not just that I need way more practice at TIG). Next, I leveled the cylinder head. With a bolt, scrap metal and a feeler gauge. Worked surprisingly well. Both bolt & feeler gauge allow for easy adjustment. Then I took my welded scrap metal and attached a burette to it... ...and watched it drip away. It started to spill over at almost exactly 19.5cc. i used a drip of dish-wash to eliminate surface tension. It's not the perfect accurate method to do it, but should be fairly precise. Precise enough for my requirements. I don't need to know my compression ratio down to 1/100th. So - my first measurement using a syringe was surprisingly accurate, I had measured about 20cc with a syringe. Ha! Next up; taking a measurement of the piston-to-deck distance. Again not moon rocket precise, but a couple of repeated measurements got me to about 0.35mm, which is about what I could read on the sliding caliper. With those two measurements I coul finally determine my static compression ratio. Which is alsmost exactely 10.9:1. Not taking into account the ring gap volume. That means: I need more volume. I expected this, since the head was skimmed considerably to up the CR when I used it with a low-compression engine. Hmmm. That means - fire up the compressor and buy some cumstain targlide burrs I guess That's all for now. Cheers, Jan
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Since I had a general clean-up, I could not resist arranging them all for a group picture.
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60's and before stuff seems to be the best! When they just over-engineered stuff to last a life-time. And when people were willing to pay a lot for stuff that lasted them a life-time. I found an interesting thread on Garage Journal, some amazing stuff from across the pond in there! Link: www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=130285And I found out about something when I looked at all the serial numbers & how they'r satmped... And why be happy with one, if you can have two? Blöödy hell, what are the odds!?!? They have serial numbers 1757 and 1760... Cheers, Jan
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That's a neat trick! Must remember that one Fantastic work as always!
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Apr 29, 2017 20:13:32 GMT
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Apr 29, 2017 16:12:19 GMT
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winchman - got any pictures? Always happy to see picture of other old/vintage jacks in this thread! -------- Since my left arm is mostly disfunctional due to a bad shoulder, I only did some minor stuff today. I wanted to grease the H1.6/100 - but found that my grease gun doesn't have a piece to work with the "cone" type nipples. So I played with some adapters, found a Mini head stud has a matching thread. And chucked one in the lathe. Drilled a 1.5mm hole in the tip, drilled through - et voila: Worked flawless! Though I can't get to the big shaft that conects the hydraulic ram with the lift arm. Would have needed a head stud & drill about 3x as long. Well... At least all the other parts are now greased. So - will it lift? Yes it will! With ease. But releasing it is a bit - hmmm. I think there must be a sort of valve to limit the amount of fluid going back, so far I have not found it though. Maybe it's internal. But I think it's releasing too much fluid, since it drops rather quick. And there's no "adjustment", it's just all or nothing. So there must be a internal limiter for backflow to slow it dropping. It's veeeery slowly sinking if left under load though. Like so many do. But on this one, it's not realy an safety issue. Due to the very beefy mechanical lock. Here's a closer look of it: As you can see, it has two positions. And appears to be very sturdy and rigidly tied into both cylinder & chassis. I'm not convinced of the method of releasing it, but I LOVE the mechanical drop safety! This is such a clever detail and a HUGE improvement in safety! So far I have not seen another jack with a similar safety... But feel free to educate me That's all for now. Cheers, Jan
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Apr 28, 2017 17:22:30 GMT
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998.000km...
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