ChasR
RR Helper
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Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Good stuff. Thanks for taking the time to write it all up. I am still half heartedly looking for one of these, you are helping me make my mind up! My pleasure. I'm intrigued to see if I've put you off! My car wasn't the best example but by far not the worst either. I think it goes to show that these cars do take some cash, like any iffy cars do. But then again, mine is in pretty good order these days, albeit still not perfect. But then it is a 15 year old car. Where was I? Aha, the thermostats. This car had an issue with the thermostats, and it has two of them, like all M57s have from when they left the factory: -The main engine thermostat (88 Degrees) -An EGR thermostat. (72 Degrees) I'll have to double check the above, but it's something like the above nos. The car would warm up reasonably quickly, but it would not go beyond 70 degrees. I suspect the EGR thermostat, which is the lower temperature item of the two, was working, and semi-carrying the main thermostat. With that in mind, I got two new thermostats. I've played with pattern items in the past, and even 'OE' branded thermostats but they have never been as good as genuine thermostats. Even the design differs from what I've seen 90% of the time! I didn't also fancy doing the job again, and wasting more precious G48 coolant! Once I had them, it was a case of swapping the old with the new: Finally, they were all fitted I was left with an engine that warmed up correctly and quickly. Ignore the oil temp ; these don't have an oil temp sender. With this done, I celebrated that weekend by meeting up with a few mates, and having a mini-estate meet. OK, we met up for breakfast. That S124 looks familiar, but it was not mine at the time this photo was taken. As another bonus, I did not realise this at the time, but this car had a detachable towbar fitted at some point, complete with a CANBUS integration unit for it. A pricey, and handy thing to have on the car. The annoying thing however, was that it didn't have the towing neck for it. Thankfully, someone in the E91 circles wanted rid of theirs, which I was all too happy to take. For those who want to see the difference between pre-LCI SEs and M-Sports, here is a shot. It is basically the bumpers and wheels which differ between the two. It's also interesting how a colour can look very different when it's dirty. The Graphite Grey actually has a nice tint to it, depending on the lighting conditons: There is more to come, obviously! The next update is something I wasn't expecting to do.
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Last Edit: Mar 5, 2024 7:47:08 GMT by ChasR
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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My 2001 325 Sport is compliant , Everything of mine is bar the most practical car
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Er. anything made before 1984.. its RETRO rides remember.. Yawn. Calm down man Stuff when this forum was made was in the 18-30 club. It was rare that stuff was 40 years and older. That was almost 20 years ago on here.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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With regards to the question, I browse RR as the following:
-Browse with the phone alot, but rarely reply (60-70%) -Type out on the PC (30-40%)
While phones are alot better for browsing, I still find it simpler and easier to do it on a PC.
This has become moreso, when going from an iPhone to a Pixel. I don't know why, but Google seems to have a hatred of a clipboard, and access album photos, which are alot simpler on the iPhone, thus easier to grab photos you have organised. Samsungs I understand are better here, and do have a clipboard function for copying pics
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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My thanks to everyone for their suggestions...and I very nearly did plump for a Jazz but I just couldn't get over their rep as granny cars AND the fact they are ubiquitous. There was another option we overlooked...(and please forgive the awful at night camera phone pic) Yes, the Audi A2. I have now joined a rather exclusive club of dull men who can harp on about my car having an 'aluminium space frame' and 'being ahead of its time' whilst droning on at how 'akshully, Audi were selling them at a loss' blah blah blah. It'll get its own thread on here at some point no doubt BUT the facts are: This was the cheapest one around for miles in ULEZ friendly 1.4 petrol flavour, had a claimed mpg of 46 on combined cycle, has clocked a shade over 100k and has had a recent service and cambelt. It shall now take over the commuting duty alongside other less 'space age futuristic' motors. So, in my opinion at least the question of whether not you can have frugal, interesting and ULEZ compliant motoring is a resounding yes 😊 A great choice, and an overlooked one for sure! As a few have said, the rules are simple once you break them down. As a rule of thumb, most petrols after 2001 will be compliant, and a handful of diesels after 2014 may be compliant. There are some anomalies due to how the powers that be interpret figures in a logbook (Alpina owners either benefit or are stung by this as their logbook info is basic at best), but generally that's the way it goes. It's why a '99 Boxster may not be compliant, but a post 2001 Euro 3 example will be.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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It's good to see I've not scared you folks off yet! I really should have bought something like this rather than the '6'... But sense was never one of my strong points. Haha! I don't think there is much sense in buying any old car, or BMWs ! But we do! I do like the parts availability, which is something Fords look to be trickier on for quality parts. Great thread as always. Really enjoy reading your posts, so well written and a great read. Car looking good to, always interesting following one of your car journeys. Thank you very much for your kind words. I have a few updates to go until the present day, but I'll get there. After doing the glow plugs, it was time to start assembling everything back together. Once I had redone the glow plug setup and cleaned out the intake manifold, I assembled the whole lot back together. It was quite a methodical thing to do. Funny, I had spent the last year fixing up the ST220, only to sell it, fixed up the CLK 270 CDI, then sold it, and here was I repeating history. What did Einstein say about stupidity and... . Nope, I can't remember what it is . I also took the chance to fit new intake gaskets. I then jimmy rigged up some piping to the vacuum cleaner so as to clean out the ports of any potential swarf: As I said before, I removed the top hose to get to the glow plug controller. I noticed the gasket was a little flat. Before putting that back on, I got a new gasket. The new gasket was 1mm thicker. OK, it doesn't sound like much, but I suppose it makes all of the difference. Unlike before, the gasket was now proud of the flange. Before I knew it, the intake manifold was back on the car. The car now started perfectly from stone cold. No issues, just a clean start. Happy days. I just had the thermostats left to do. Yes, I could have done them then, but I need to use the car, so the thermostats would need to wait another day
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Last Edit: Mar 2, 2024 13:50:30 GMT by ChasR
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Satin blackChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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What Stealthstylz said.
Even OEMs have this problem on non-gloss finishes. However, they will play around with 'slow' thinners, which allow for the matting agents to settle out.
Technique helps, but if the paint ain't right, no amount of technique will get you the result.
Another thing to bear in mind, is that the more you put on with Satin, the glossier the finish will get, with it going more towards a 'sheen' finish.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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2005 630iChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Feb 29, 2024 22:41:29 GMT
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I'd suggest the x35i range as a ULEZ affected person, but Jesus, they hold their value well. Sound nice mind you! TBH, the N52s go well enough for most folks.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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2005 630iChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Feb 29, 2024 22:40:07 GMT
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I am very envious! Do you know if the chap does this in general for folks or was it a favour? I'll need another laptop as my MacBook is out of space (it also have around 4 other diagnostic bits on it), but I am working on getting a dedicated laptop. Question asked 👍 Pretty sure it only works with Windows. I run a Virtual Machine, with Windows 7. The new 'PC' would be 10 or 11. Cheers for asking (y).
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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After scanning the car, it came back with quite a few Glow Plug faults. While it sounding like an American truck firing up on 4/5 cylinders for the first second or two may have sounded cool, I knew it wasn't a great long term solution, regarding emissions gear, and other things around the engine. It also started promptly, just not cleanly if the engine had been sat for more than 15 hours. These cars use the glow plugs for a multitude of reasons. Sure, I could have binned the emissions gear, but it would not have fixed the issue of poor starting, and it not running well initially. Given that on Mx7 engined BMWs, the glow plugs need the intake manifold to come off, I was obviously thrilled at the work that lay ahead. But since I had a free week and weekend, I made the most of that. But I thought I'd try the easy win weeks before this. The Glow Plug controller. I had no idea how folks change the controller in situ with: -Alot of vacuum pipes around it, without them being put back into place correctly -A coolant pipe across the top making it very hard to actually remove it off the block, without the coolant pipe being removed (This could be removed but it would be a blind removal) -The wiring connector being disconnected. Even with the manifold off, the connector is a pain to remove, no doubt to it being heat cycled a load. With that, I got the engine quite hot, and went about removing the intake manifold: Much to my surprise, from what the forums and Facebook told me, the intake wasn't too carbon'd up inside: Even the EGR valve didn't seem too bad: But, without further ado, I cracked on with something I needed the engine to be hot for. The glow plug removal. A task everyone loves: But I did win. They came out with little fuss, which was a massive relief. Building up the pressure slowly with a long ratchet seemed to help. When I checked, 1 glow plug was bad, but obvously, the car claimed it had multiple issues. It was certainly the glow plug controller at fault. With that, I got another controller, a Beru branded one as well. But as I said, I'd have more to do, so as to change this.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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2005 630iChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Tie up with ECUWorx, and chat with Martyn. He does a cable, and software for E46s, more for coding the cars. But he may do ISTA-D for yours. Carly can do alot of on these, but ISTA/INPA are better alternatives IME. That said, I've -registered batteries on 3 BINI/BMWs -Coded a few cars, including my E46 and an F31, for customisation. I've even coded a pre-LCI E39 with a conversion lead (OBD to round pin) -General fault finding, again on older round plug BMWs too ; I reset an airbag light on a mate's E36/6 (Compact) It's also done Fords too, which is handy. Annoyingly, it doesn't do Saabs too well, but then not much short of TECHII works well on a Saab . Chap I bought the wheels from loaded inpa/ista onto my laptop, he also put newTIS onto my tablet... Nothing I can't do now 😇😇😇 I am very envious! Do you know if the chap does this in general for folks or was it a favour? I'll need another laptop as my MacBook is out of space (it also have around 4 other diagnostic bits on it), but I am working on getting a dedicated laptop.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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2005 630iChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Feb 28, 2024 16:50:19 GMT
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. I need a better code reader, diagnostic tool than bimmerlink and my £10 reader. First thought was a handheld bmw specific, around £120/50. Going instead for a cheap used laptop, a £40 lead and free download INPA and or ISTA, saves me a few quid. Hmmm, after searching I can find no free downloads either, it's a curse word as my new link cable is on the way, wife says I can use her laptop. I may end up with a handheld. Tie up with ECUWorx, and chat with Martyn. He does a cable, and software for E46s, more for coding the cars. But he may do ISTA-D for yours. Carly can do alot of on these, but ISTA/INPA are better alternatives IME. That said, I've -registered batteries on 3 BINI/BMWs -Coded a few cars, including my E46 and an F31, for customisation. I've even coded a pre-LCI E39 with a conversion lead (OBD to round pin) -General fault finding, again on older round plug BMWs too ; I reset an airbag light on a mate's E36/6 (Compact) It's also done Fords too, which is handy. Annoyingly, it doesn't do Saabs too well, but then not much short of TECHII works well on a Saab
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Feb 28, 2024 16:46:06 GMT
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That's fairly perfect although I've found lower mileage for less pennies. For the right car, unless it's not a long term keeper, I wouldn't get too hung up on mileage. Care, condition and maintenance count for more, which will be obvious when you see the car. Being a car that is cheap, folks will run them on a shoestring with obvious results. My CLK 270 CDI was similar in this respect. Bar the rusty arches, it was a sound car, with not alot wrong with it. It's been pretty good for the new owner too.
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Last Edit: Feb 28, 2024 16:46:24 GMT by ChasR
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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2005 630iChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Feb 28, 2024 16:43:28 GMT
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With some bits and a remap your as quick as an M6. Temptation. Yes and no. While the x35d have the stronger ZF 'box, there are limitations as to when they begin to slip from what I'm told. But that is going with a very beefy remap, taking to the 400BHP mark. TBH, a stock x35d is a swift thing, and more than quick enough for most folks out there. I do miss my dad's 535d. I did almost buy it back.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Feb 26, 2024 23:54:46 GMT
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While the car looked good, I was aware that it didn't necessarily feel good. The front end hummed like the Birmingham New St. to London train, and the way it started in the morning on 4 or 5 cylinders would have pleased any redneck with a Cummins diesel in their pick-up. Clearly, I had to fix these issues. Firstly, I stripped the wheels and brake assemblies off, leaving me with play free, but apparently quiet wheel hubs. The only indication of the hubs being goosed was a slightly 'scratchy' sound, but it was not obvious at all. I reckon the discs the PO changed didn't come off, so they must have hit the discs hard and pitted the hubs in the process. It's something I've done myself before, as have other friends. In these instances, you are simply better off to cut the disc off, and save the hub. Either way, the hub had to come off. It was a nightmare to undo the bolts. Heat helped, but as soon as the bolts cooled down slightly, I was back to Square One. There was only one thing for it. Get my credit card out and go to Machine Mart to top up my inventory Get an 18mm impact socket, some impact extensions and hope that the bolts would snap off with the DeWalt rattle gun I had. Did the bolts snap? Of course not! The DeWalt with the correct impact bits rattled off the bolts in no time. I had to do a bit of a dance with the bolts, as one bolt is inaccessible with the strut in the way, but with me loosening off the bolts around it, then managing to squeeze the socket in, and loosen off the final bolt, I made short work of removing the hubs. At the same time, I 'repaired the dust shields. A dirty fix I know, but it did the job. Then it was time for the old vs new. It seems the SKF bearings I bought were Koyo, which is the OE for BMW. A nice result, given that they were priced well Without further ado, I had the new hub on, and greased up. At this point, to satisfy my curiousity, I went out for a drive. The car was no quieter and I had wasted my money, fitting the hub. Wrong! It was quiet! Sure, there was a hum left, but from the remaining side. With that changed, the car was silent. That just left the dodgy starting. Upon scanning the car, it had several glow plug faults. To me, this read like a Glow plug controller issue, and maybe bad glow plugs. That would be the next job for me to do. Yup, that was alot of plastics to remove just to change 6 glow plugs and a controller. More on that next time.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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I have been using a 530D Manual for the past 18 months as a daily and tow car. Bought it on 81,000 miles and they will do 250,000 when maintained. I have had it mapped for better torque for towing and it still pulls around 42mpg. Not failed on me yet. They will do more than that. I've seen one do 530,000 miles (MOT check Y272 BRW). OK it was a 525d but it's the same family of engine Sure, it needed a few things to get there, including: -A few injectors ; I don't think all were changed -A couple of turbos My dad's 535d did 191k with nothing touched on the engine bar the intercooler seals. The above were stock cars. I've seen a 535d fail on 170k, with it completely losing compression on the rearmost cylinder, but I have my suspicions as to why it did.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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I must be one of the few where what I got that I paid for, it worked.
My M3 is on a set of Michelins up front, with over 23k on them. I'll be honest, I reckon they are a little old at 7 years old next month, but they have no cracks. It's not like I've babied the car either. I've
-Done 30 laps of the Nurburgring on them -Evo Triangle, Buttertubbs and so on -Several European trips on them.
The only thing I've done is kept them inflated at the correct pressure.
The only caveat I'll say is that for the past 4 years, the car has been stored in a garage, but generally it sees most summers.
I did once have Michelins crack on the rear of my sister's car; they had at at least 40k on the rear so I couldn't complain too much; my tyre fitter put it down to the tyre not being warmed up enough, and saw it a bit on several cars. I can't say I followed the theory, but he's changed far more tyres than I have.
The 3 year old Chinese tyres on my ST220 had all sorts of issues in comparison, including -Bulges/separation of the rubber from the bead -cracks -just general naffness.
The only thing I've seen with others is spurious versions of tyres come onto the market. Chinese version of Eagle F1s for example made their way over here. At work, we used to drill Chinese marketed tyres, as they were technically speaking, illegal for the cars to use, and folks would try and put them onto cars, without thinking of the repercussions (liability in the case of crashing the car, and a potential major non-conformance in an audit)
That was a one off example but it's not to say the shops always sell what they are meant to.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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JDM split rim refurb ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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WheelsUK in Coventry. They are pretty good from the folks I know that have used them.
I've almost use them myself at times to be honest.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Realistic Metro Values?ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Last 1275 lump I bought needed a diff rebuild (mica washer, not pin) before I'd driver it, and cost me about £750. I wish I could get a running one for 500! I guess my issue with values is, aside from the optimists thinking anything "classic" has to be worth £5k, I don't get how a car that maybe makes £2k in great condition can be worth half or more of that in rusty pieces. Especially when the same people telling me these cars are worth quite a bit also near accused me of criminality when I suggested my own, not rusty or in pieces, one was worth more than a KFC family bucket. That's exactly my point. I was referring to running engines bought off eithers punters or folks not in the trade. I could base my valuations off what tradery/specailist mates of mine pay for cars but I'm aware for non tradey folks it's unrealistic, unless they scour eBay all day ; which with a family or full time job is tricky to do.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Mini One Ecu question.ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Just be sure that the mileage and module are coded correctly.
If not, you could end up with a tamper dot appearing on the dash.
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