OK - I did mine a while ago and stuck a post up about it on another forum
They were split rims so that makes polished rims and coloured centres easy but you can polish and then wet paint for the same effect on non split rims
So Step 1 - BeforeWheel 1 - Awfull
Wheel 2 - Bad
Wheel 3 - Average GTi Laquer lift
Wheel 4 - almost perfect
So a few close ups of the bad bits
Thats enough I reckon
Step 2 - StripdownSo get the wheel off the car and using a multispline torz bit (VM8 Torq bit) and a breaker bar - loosen the bolts off half a turn
Spin em all out - the U shaped driver pictured is wonderfull for this job - keep the bolts safe for the moment
Turn the wheel on it's side holding it upright between your knees tap the back of the centre section on the hub face with a bit of wood to free up the centre
Pop and out she will come - catch it before it hits the deck :wink:
This is the big problem - water gets between the centre and the rim and corrodes the wheel out towards the rim - unless of course you've kerbed it then it does the same job from both dirrections
This one shows it very well
And here you can see the effect of kerbing and corrosion from the inside
Step 3 - Tyres Off and Centres away for Powder coatingHave a search in Yellow pages if you aren't local too me - Most shot/sandblasting places also do powder coating :wink:
Tyres are now removed and all the rims are ready for the rim treatment :wink:
PS they are bloody light - all the weight is in the centres......hmmm thinks billet centres 8)
Step 4 - Removal of LaquerThe worst wheel (or one of the two worst wheels anyway)
Safety first - rubber gloves no exposed skin on arms/legs etc and safetly glasses please when using paint stripper - it burns skin and hurts like hell if you get it in your eyes
First the mucky bit - paint stripper - Recommend Nitromors
Before
With a layer of stripper applied (be paitient and do it in a warmish area thats well ventilated - NOT direct sunlight)
leave the stripper alone to do it's rice crispy impression :wink:
After 10 mins (thats almost done)
Us a thin plastic Body filler spatula to remove the stripper and bubbled coating - rinse the wheel with clean water once complete
Step 5 - Polishing preparationfirst pass prep work (wet and dry 240)
After second pass (wet and dry 400)
Skipped the next stage just cos it was getting late and I wanted to polish a tiny bit to give you a taster of the finished item
Can't shave in it yet but you can see the camera!!!!
Back to the wet and dry stages tommorrow 600 and then 800 followed by 1200 before the polishing begins proper
Remember if the wheels are in different conditions you still need to go through the same process of down thro grades of Wet and dry otherwise the polished finish won't match (you just don't need to rub as hard on a wheel that isn't kerbed)
So quick summary
- Start with 240 wet and dry but use it dry
- Next is 400 again dry if it gets worn out and uses it's edge I'll use it wet again
- Next is 600 wet
- followed by 800 wet and finally 1200 wet
As far as dirrection goes I go with the curve of the rim and then accross it if you get what I mean - what you are after is a smooth finish but with the rim shape maintained - so no using blocks :wink:
Step 6 - Polishing and finishesBeen having a play looking at different finishes plus what can be achieved by hand and black and decker assisted
Wheel quartered
Top - Black and Decker assisted polishing compound (bar)
Right - Scotchbrite rub (by hand) :wink:
Bottom - Brasso (by hand)
Left - Solvol autosol (by hand)
So
Black and Decker assisted polishing compound (bar)
Scotchbrite rub (by hand) :wink:
Brasso (by hand)
Solvol autosol (by hand)
Step 7 - ReassemblyCentres back from powder coating
Just laid in one of the finished polished rims _just a taster!!!!
Bit of a close up
Rim with mating surface cleaned and ready
Sealant applied in a bead all the way round (Vauxhall Gasket Cement - it's non acidic like some silicone sealants and sets hard but will peel clean off surfaces - been using it for years) well owning vauxhalls I would wouldn't I - what I want to do is stop the water getting between the rim and the flat edge of the centre so I don't want any on the jointing face.
Drop the centre in and line it up with the holes - press down firmly
Loctite the bolts one after another and drop em into the holes (work quickly here)
OK - pick two opposites and gently tighten them up - not fully tight just nip em - pick another two at 90 deg to them and do the same
Catch up with all the others - remember to always work from one side of the wheel to the other - nip em up hand tight only
Once they are all nipped go round with a torque wrench and bring em all up to 20 NM
Repeat at 30 NM and that will do nicely
Da Da
Just a reminder - this is what this wheel did look like
Couldn't resist another one of these pics
All done and finished
PDF File Care of andyg (Top Job Andy 8) )
Download the PDF HERE ->>>
www.puppetstring.com/andy/BSTARDCHILD_ALLOY_DIYGUIDE.pdfif you don't have adobe acrobat reader get it here:->>>>
www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.htmlCosts (should be representative of what can be dne in your local area)
£12 - Tyres off
£95 - Powder coat centres
£20 - sundry material cost - sealant - polishing cloth - polish - paint stripper
£24 - Tyres on and rebalanced with new tyre valves