|
|
|
|
|
|
Mate, top work!
Your eyebrows look worse than mine did! (Filler up to 1/2" thick in places, ran a magnet over it had to go 3" back into the wing to get it to find metal...)
Nice one.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Some superb welding there. Quite a lot of that rot and the previous bodging looks all too familier. I would keep it FWD personally there not bad engines if you make sure the oil ways are clear and servive em regularly. Id say more reliable than a slant. Of course theres a huge argument in the TDC over whether slants or OHVs are better ;D
|
| |
|
|
namless
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 580
Club RR Member Number: 26
|
|
|
|
cheer guys ;D Colonelk - does the job, your welder needs it too its quite heavy lol  nickbrad - kool mate some more updates are planned. xbo11ox - yea i think its actualy easier workign with that stuff also it holds the shape quite well compared to cheepo thin stuff. elmotheewokking - its a proper design flaw with these old cars plenty of places where the rubish from the wheel sits and hold water endsup eating the untreated metal. pauldaf44 - naa I'm not going to be changing the engine its staying stock, i can say for a 1500 its proper nippy. however i still need to do the headgasket on it not mixing water/oil or loosing compression but just leakign alittle bit on the side. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Showed this to my dad he said "He clearly knows what he is doing!" .. high praise indeed  .. looking great, keep up the good work! |
| |
|
|
namless
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 580
Club RR Member Number: 26
|
|
|
|
Showed this to my dad he said "He clearly knows what he is doing!" .. high praise indeed .. looking great, keep up the good work! cheers David that means a lot to me  mega mojo boost |
| |
|
|
purplevanman
Posted a lot
Way too orangey for crows
Posts: 3,830
|
|
|
|
Ouch!!! you're putting nearly as much steel in this as I did!! Looking good though, should last a while now keep up the good work |
| |
Welder, fabricator, general resto work
|
|
namless
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 580
Club RR Member Number: 26
|
|
|
|
|
yea al i think after this lot of steel and waxoil it should see it a another 40 years haha
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Waw, I wish i could weld like that, i would have taken one look at that wing and run a mile.
|
| |
|
|
RetroMat
Posted a lot
Column Shifting!
Posts: 3,444
|
|
|
|
that looks familiar! you;ve just given me a huge mojo boost! I've have this looking at me every time I go in the garage for the last 3months  got round to doing the inner headlamp surround at the weekend, will have pull my finger out and get it finished now ;D |
| |
Last Edit: Jan 5, 2011 19:41:26 GMT by RetroMat
|
|
namless
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 580
Club RR Member Number: 26
|
|
|
|
good evening everybody... ;D its time for part 2 the nearside which seems to involve bit more then the offside. cheers for the comments guys ;D who likes photos put your hands up.. now now we have a few for today started this side by bracing the edge of the light brow by spotting a sheet to hold it in shape   then cut out the shape for the inner light mount  cut a slimmer strip to make the edge  tacked all nice and tidy  and stitch welded it  good penetration me thinks  cut the rotten one out and stuck the new one in place  fits about right  i had kept the edge of the light brow so i can maintain the shape of the inner light mount, and keep size within the limit. chopped the whole lot off  copied the shape from the off side and reversed it cut it out on sheet metal and started tacking it together  then made the the top and sided of the new wing the reason i make it in two pieces is to get the sharp edge on the top and its easier to stretch and shrink in to shape. not the easiest curves Tbh  looks about right  finished that off and took the whole lot out to make the inner light surround apologies as i am missing some pictures I can't seem to find them, but here is the finished light surround  primed in some rust primer  then caped the whole lot back together and painstakingly seamed it together trying not to warp it i know it looks like pigeon poop but hey its the penetration that counts  i had done this lot from underneath   and then the good old flapwheel comes out   looks about right  8-)next update we will be lookign at this culprit  till next time goodnite, hope you enjoyed this session of Weldathon ;D |
| |
|
|
|
|
purplevanman
Posted a lot
Way too orangey for crows
Posts: 3,830
|
|
|
|
easy bit next still looking good m8 |
| |
Welder, fabricator, general resto work
|
|
namless
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 580
Club RR Member Number: 26
|
|
|
|
|
yea pretty straight forward its got straight lines
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ooft.
Now that looks good. Also a pretty hand visual reference for when I get to crack on with it. Cheers!
I admit, I cheated with mine and bought some fibreglass wings off e-bay (£50 the pair, bargain), but the inners are, err, not there.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Impressive work! |
| |
1953 Austin A40 Somerset
1959 Austin A35
1958 Austin A55 Cambridge
1975 Vauxhall FE 2300S
1985 Austin Maestro 1.3 Base
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
cheer guys ;D pauldaf44 - naa I'm not going to be changing the engine its staying stock, I can say for a 1500 its proper nippy. however I still need to do the headgasket on it not mixing water/oil or loosing compression but just leakign alittle bit on the side. Thats a common fault with these engines. The oil way is on the back right of the block looking from the front. When you replace the HG smear some gasket sealant around the oil way hole, otherwise it will start leaking again in no time at all. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
HIGHLY IMPRESSIVE WORKS, 18/10
|
| |
1974 Lancia Beta Saloon
1975 Mazda 929 Coupé
1986 Mazda 929 Wagon
1979 Mazda 929 Hardtop
1982 Fiat Argenta 2.0 iniezione elettronica
1977 Toyota Carina TA14
1989 Subaru 1800 Wagon
1982 Hyundai Pony 1200TL 2-dr
1985 Hyundai Pony 1200 GL
1986 Maserati 425 Biturbo
1992 Rover 214 SEi 5-dr
2000 Rover 45 V6 Club
1994 Peugeot 205 'Junior' Diesel
1988 Volvo 760 Turbodiesel Saloon
1992 Talbot Express Autosleeper Rambler
2003 Renault Laguna SPEARS OR REAPERS
|
|
namless
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 580
Club RR Member Number: 26
|
|
|
|
elmotheewokking - glad the pictures will be of some help the fibre glass does make work a hell lot easier I had thought about that also grunty had mentioned them when I went to pick up the car, but I like making noise haha angrydicky, xbo11ox - thanks for the comments guys ;D pauldaf44 yea that's the exact spot its leaking from bloody oil way. noted thanks for the tip il make sure I glue it back together properly |
| |
|
|
Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,542
|
|
|
|
What they said, nice work stitching this together |
| |
Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable. |
|
DutyFreeSaviour
Europe
Back For More heartbreak and disappointment.....
Posts: 2,944
|
|
|
|
|
very very impressive metal magicking going on.... hat is well and truell doffed to you sir.
John
|
| |
Back from the dead..... kind of
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Quality metalworking Just a thought - when I did something similar to a Sprint many years ago (I cheated and used some not rusty wings though!), afterwards I put an extra plate in that blanked off that whole mud-trap area at the front. Was just tacked and seam sealed. That was in 1990 and the car is still about. You might also be able to find some plastic arch liners off something more modern and adapt them. Will last so much better then Keep up the good work - wonder if you could get a Saab 99 lump in there.... Nick |
| |
1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
|
|
|
|
.. looking great, keep up the good work!
mega mojo boost 
