goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,889
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That plenum is awesome. Looks like this project is coming on great Judging by your attitude to the rest of your build, Megasquirt will be right up your street, it's great for those who like to keep learning and tweaking things. And there plenty of folks about with Megasquirt experience to help out when it comes to the tuning
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Stunning work, love how this is evolving from standard to rotary to V6. Awesome stuff!
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Sierra - here we go again! He has an illness, it's not his fault.
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That plenum is fantastic, you sure have a lot of head room to work with and that uses it well. the lid sets it all off perfect Aren't all those things on top of the original throttle body the idle control valves? Also note the standard throttle body is a bit too small, but that ill only effect the top end BTW these are mine:
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Contrary to popular opinion, I do have mechanical sympathy, I always feel sorry for the cars I drive.
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Looking good dude. That engine looks tiny, smaller than the rotary even!
How much space is there between the bell mouths and the lid? How're you finding the MS build?
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Koos
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Not so swift- yeah the lid looks nice. I'm happy with it. The milling bit slipped down on the second rib I cut due to not having a proper collet type holder. It preceded to cut a 4mm cut..which was exactly the same as the thickness of plate....hence one groove is bottomless! curse word. Oh wel. ill weld it up from the back. Yeah I wasn't sure about the TB size. I'm using the larger ZE item which is 60mm rather than 55. I'll have to see how it goes but as always this project is like my others..on a small budget. Not because I'm broke but because I'm tight. I'm a Davidson you see. Its in my blood.
Mark- the bell mouths sit about 15 mm from the lid. plenty of space I think. Its all made up in my mind using my finest BAD analysis. (that could be Brain aided design or booze aided design)
Yeah the engine is quite small once all the extra curse word is removed. Certainly one of the smallest quad cam V6's I know of.
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BTW these are mine: More on your car please
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Not so swift- yeah the lid looks nice. I'm happy with it. The milling bit slipped down on the second rib I cut due to not having a proper collet type holder. It preceded to cut a 4mm cut..which was exactly the same as the thickness of plate....hence one groove is bottomless! curse word. Oh wel. ill weld it up from the back. OUCH! now you say it I can see it but I wouldn't (didn't) notice before, as you say dob of weld under neat and it will be fine Yeah I wasn't sure about the TB size. I'm using the larger ZE item which is 60mm rather than 55. Every mm is a fair difference in area, I think 1% dia = 2.14% area, you can bore them out, I think 65 is what he turbo guys do, but not 100% Mine? Been running it standard for 2 years except for headers/exhaust and computer (so no MAF), just a DE motor, and about 106kW at the wheels. (Which is why I said you will get more than 150hp with the manifold, they are a very restrictive design) Now I have the handling about right I am doing some decent upgrades. Throttle bodies above, Cams (not big, can't get anything decent, just ground out the base circle) Head work, built bottom end, and importantly a dry sump, About half way through motor, Have also re wired it and put coil packs on and Electric water pump on over the break but first event is March 10 and I will now be aiming for the second... although I will most likely not have the dry sump in even then because all I have is a cut pan and a tacked up bracket (also moves the Alt up to clear) My budget is more than it should be but less than it could be!!! Most of the bits are second hand or adapted... Coils from a V6 Hyundai, Hyabusa ITB's, I think the dry sump will owe less than AU$1000 and about $200 of that is freight from the US! One day I should do a thread
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Contrary to popular opinion, I do have mechanical sympathy, I always feel sorry for the cars I drive.
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Looking good dude. That engine looks tiny, smaller than the rotary even! How much space is there betwen the bell mouths and the lid? How're you finding the MS build? Reason for asking is that I read a V8 tuning article that advocated lowering the trumpets to get more clearance to the plenum top.
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Koos
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First, do not remove that harmonic balancer and replace with an underdrive, KL’s need them. The motors are nicely balanced internally but they get a harmonic that will see you hurt the oil pump. By all means remove the outer drive, but leave the balancer. I looked into this further since you mentioned it. I think the outer larger pulley is attached to the smaller inner pulley by a rubber sleeve. Seems that this is there to dampen the vibrations that can be set up. Also very common for the rubber to go brittle, age, fall apart and the outer pulley drop off. I have several complete pulleys and two pulleys that have had the outer pulley removed. The fella who had the Fraser did this. I can run with the big one attached and still have room for fans. Will have to see what the rubber is like. It's quite a big argument going on about the usefulness of them on both mx6 and probe forums. Many people have ditched them and gone under drive. Many have had the stock and aftermarket replacement damper pulleys fail. I'm going to use the inner pulley for my alt so not worried either way. Plus not intending to go beyond 7000. Will have to do more research.....
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Lovely looking install coming on here, the tidied engine bay is going to look a treat as well once it's all painted. I have a soft spot for these V6s as they were one of the first engines I ever stripped when I was a Mazda apprentice, there were a couple of warrenty mods involving the hydraulic lifters and camshaft gear shims that kept us busy for a while, I certainly remember the inlet being a heavy and awkward thing to work around, yours looks much nicer
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Cheers. Yeah that seems to be one of the only common problems I have read of these engines- some get noisy lifters. I think it can be solved by good oil. Certainly the eunos 500 I first bought for the 1.8 engine was quite noisy after having sat for 3 years. But the oil was very dirty. It went quiet after some running.
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This www.g33.co.uk/tuning.htm was the article I was referring to. It's about rover v8s, but the same principal should apply to your cute little V6!
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Koos
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well that would be me then. Whats your name? were you a customer? No I did work experience with you around '99. I'm Gareth, Will's from Beeline's bro ;D
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Yes, Like all modern motors good clean oil is everything, and the number of junked up ones grows as they age and people neglect them
Visual inspection of the rubber for the balancer should be enough, I have heard of extreme cases where the rubber has "de-laminated" so bad the outer ring has moved (so the timing marks had moved), but people can see it if they look
But they are a sweet unit and pretty reliable unless you go really big revs (where they normally don't make power, so it is a waste if time), even then sensible precautions can fix it. Seriously they are 10 times better than 90% of the other things out there, Mazda had good service of of them well built, super smooth, very light, reasonable fuel, but they were an expensive engine to build, split crankcase, maximum capacity basically reached, complex cam arrangement, inlet manifold incredibly complex,it was all done by robots, cheaper to big bore a 4cyl with VVTi that covers 1.6 to 2.5 litre (MZR which became Duratech)
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Contrary to popular opinion, I do have mechanical sympathy, I always feel sorry for the cars I drive.
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Ah ha- I did some digging (looked at your posts) and I had deduced that you are either Will or his brother. I recognise your garage when I went there to get some xflo bits for the xflo engine I had in this Viva.
What's will up to?
Mr swift - what oil do you use? And plugs?
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Will's a boring old man these days!! lol he's well. Child no.3 is imminent. I noticed a resto link in your sig, found your blue Mazda and something told me that there couldn't be many guys that worked for Stuart, who owned a baby blue RX3 that went back to NZ a few years back. Top notch work by the way dude
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There is no hiding.
bloody hell- 3 kids. We have a cat and that's more than enough!!!
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exhaust time. I thought that instead of building the headers from heavy steel pipe I would instead use lightweight wood. The car would be greener and smell nice too.I could also paint them with house paint. In any colour! So with this in mind I built my headers.... I then realised that all those gaps would let the fumes escape and that would be no good really. Plus the wood might burn. So steel it was. Started off with my little mig welder and then the co2 ran out. So I then tigged some bits together which looked nice and pretty with neat flat welds but my current argon bottle is almost out and I need that for some more alloy bits in next few days. So luckily my boss let me borrow a mig from work. I have tried to get the runners matched as best possible within the room I have. Two are almost spot on and one is 10mm longer. N/S one finished but for end flange. Its not really that important as the rest of the exhaust is going to remain 2" for now which will probably make more difference to performance then header lengths. I'll be using exhaust wrap as always- I love the stuff. I think it works well and makes me itchy. Certainly must cut down engine bay temps as on the rotaries I could place my hand on the exhaust pipes with engine running.
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Feb 10, 2013 17:15:52 GMT
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nice exhausts
Clever way of checking the routing the pipes before cutting any tubes up
Have to remember that one
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Feb 10, 2013 20:48:58 GMT
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THat is a great idea for the manifold and it would be easy to get relatively equal lengths
yoeddynz I use a full syn Fuch's 5W-30, but I think it is most likely too light, I think a 40 would be better for most situations. I think most Full Synthetics would be fine, regardless of brand Plug, normally NGK, standard '7's, but currently AC Delco because we replaced them on the dyno and that was what they had, they seem fine as well.
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Contrary to popular opinion, I do have mechanical sympathy, I always feel sorry for the cars I drive.
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