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Hi! Sort of, Offenburg. Between Karlsruhe and Freiburg. I work near Karlsruhe. If the Mini is ready, I'd be delighted to meet some RRs in person!  And I don't get it on the road this year, I'd be just as delighted Cheers, Jan |
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Soo, long time no worky-worky on little engine... But it's not like nothing happened. I took some pieces of tube, scrap and a 10mm rod. And cut it all apart.  And welded it back together.  ^that piece on the end... It liftet that much from welding. Should have clamped it, but was too lazy. Still does the job -and tought me a lesson (not just that I need way more practice at TIG). Next, I leveled the cylinder head. With a bolt, scrap metal and a feeler gauge. Worked surprisingly well. Both bolt & feeler gauge allow for easy adjustment.  Then I took my welded scrap metal and attached a burette to it...  ...and watched it drip away.  It started to spill over at almost exactly 19.5cc. i used a drip of dish-wash to eliminate surface tension. It's not the perfect accurate method to do it, but should be fairly precise. Precise enough for my requirements. I don't need to know my compression ratio down to 1/100th. So - my first measurement using a syringe was surprisingly accurate, I had measured about 20cc with a syringe. Ha! Next up; taking a measurement of the piston-to-deck distance.  Again not moon rocket precise, but a couple of repeated measurements got me to about 0.35mm, which is about what I could read on the sliding caliper. With those two measurements I coul finally determine my static compression ratio. Which is alsmost exactely 10.9:1. Not taking into account the ring gap volume. That means: I need more volume. I expected this, since the head was skimmed considerably to up the CR when I used it with a low-compression engine. Hmmm. That means - fire up the compressor and buy some cumstain targlide burrs I guess  That's all for now. Cheers, Jan |
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Tungsten carbide drills! What the bloody hells tungsten carbide drills? |
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It's (almost) back home! I'm so happy, I can't put it into words.    We unloaded it and pushed it inside. And I couldn't resist trying to start it... Still had oil & water in it, but the battery of course is not just dead, it's extinct. And over 12 years old. Anyways, I shot a bit of brake clean into the carb - and it actually did a *vrouum*. YAY!! Bit more cranking to fill the fuel bowl - and it ran. Just like that. On all four. Like nothing happened. No smoke, no missfiring - AWESOME!! The clutch disengaged perfectly, 1st gear went in smooth as silk (well, for a Mini anyway) - and I found myself taking it for a spin Boy was it NICE to finally drive this car again!! I only then realised just how much I missed this car! It's still a little journey to it's home port, but I'm actually confident it can be done under it's own steam. Brakes are not seized, which probably surprised me the most. It'll get new fluid and a proper inspection, though. And there's stuff that doesn't work, like indicators and fuel gauge and a rear light. Minor stuff. Cheers, Jan |
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Nice to see it coming back!
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,998
Club RR Member Number: 35
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Awesome to see it's back out of hiding 😃
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It's still a little journey to it's home port, but I'm actually confident it can be done under it's own steam. Well - not so sure anymore... How fast things can change, eh? Had nothing better to do today, so I decided to give the Mini a good check-up. I replaced the flasher relais - only to find out both new ones don't work at all. So I put the old ones back in - and after letting them run for a while, they seem to work OK now. Sigh. Then jacked the car up to inspect the calipers for seized pistons or leaks. We've seen a lot of calipers that start to leak after long-ish periods of storage... Also greased everything - all good. No apparent damage, brake pistons move nice & easy.  ^it's perfectly safe, I found this jack in the boot of an Alfa - all good! After I had greased all nipples, I drove the car out and gave it a quick wash, to get rid of the worst dirt.  And since then - the engine never ran again... Naturally I assumed water had gotten into the ignition. Replaced cap & rotor (I planed to replace them anyway) - nope. No spark. Checked everything, all good. Replaced the spark plugs, checked the wiring, coil, leads - all within spec. But no spark. In the end, I found only one things; the pickup coil inside the electronic dizzy has no electric passage. Which I think might be the issue... Why it died in this exact moment - no clue. But it's the only thing I found.  I think it's safer to bring the car home on a trailer or flat bed... Though I think this problem has been in the coming; the last couple of days driving this car on the roads (5 years ago), I had an issue with the engine cutting out randomly, mostly after high revs. But then I though it was the plugs fouling, since the engine burned a lot of oil (badly worn valve guides and no shaft seals )... And on the way back home I got cought in the biggest traffic jam in the whole year, over 2h for a couple of KM... Not how I thought this day would go. Cheers, Jan |
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Keep it up,we need to see this back on the road.😀 I'm very jealous of your grill surround,that would look good on my wife's 1000 auto.
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And it's back home, much sooner than expected... Though on the back of a flat bed. Parts ordered and on the way. Though I'm not sure if I try to make this engine run, or just pull it and put the 1275 in instead. Anyway - there's work ahead!  Cheers, Jan |
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Read this thread during the weekend and enjoyed it. Although it is a Mini which doesn't weigh much, the jack on pne of last pictures was a bit normal, considering your collection of "proper" jacks
Peter
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Dec 25, 2017 16:18:03 GMT
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Long time no update - but I'm back on it. I pressed a new oil seal into the cleaned & painted tiing cover. Making use of a Mercedes ball joint tool, which juuust about fitted  Installed the chain tensioner and put the cover back on. Incredibly, I found all the little shorty bolts after all those years. Put the crank pulley on, tightened the cover. Put in a "S" oil relief valve, threaded in the AN fitting for the oil filter feed. And with that - the short block is mostly assembled.  Which brings us to the next subject; the gearbox.  And I spent most of the day digging out parts and cleaning the casings. I used bearing glue to secure the diff bearings. And this was a PITA to remove... I used it, because it looked like the bearings may have moved. The first time I assembled this gearbox, I used paper gaskets for the diff cover. This may have reduced the clamping force for the bearings. So - better be safe than sorry...  And then... I had a look at the straight cut gearset that came with the huge pile of gearbox parts.  It'll need a new 1st motion and lay gear.   I'll look into prices for replacement parts and then decide wheter I pursue the plan I had for many, many, many, many years and FINALLY build that helical-A+/A-hybrid-close-ratio gearbox, or if I opt for the straight cut gears. And turn a few heads if the car goes all *Wheeeeeeeeeeee-heeee-heee-heeeeee-wheeeeeeeeeeee-heeeheeeeeeheeeee*. It's not going to be a daily driver anymore, might as well have a "funny" gearbox. And in 4th gear those S/C 'boxes are not much louder than std. gearbox, it would not loose much comfort. So - hmm. Don't know. That's all. Going through boxes and boxes and boxes full of stuff from a billion broken gearboxes & engines takes a lot of time, especially if it's as "organised" as my collection... Cheers, Jan |
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Dec 26, 2017 19:10:43 GMT
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Today I had a little time to tinker with gearbox parts, before social activitys were sheduled. I promised to go into detail of rebuilding a gearbox, so I will do. Bear with me. I'm skipping the part of taking a gearbox apart from now, but I'll do a write-up on that as soon as I have to take a gearbox apart. Part 1: dismantling the mainshaft. This is the most fiddly part of the whole process. And it can be blood boiling infuriating - or just "click". 1st gear & 1st motion shaft are easy to remove (1st motion needs to come out to pull the main shaft anyway). 2nd & 3rd gear - depends. They are held in place by two lock rings. The lock rings are held in place by a couple of spring-loaded plungers. 3rd is locked with a single plunger. Depress it and rotate the lock ring until it lins up with the splines on the main shaft.  To get to 2nd gear, you need to pull off 1st gear (slides of, simple), 1st gear bearing sleeve/hat and 1st/2nd gear synchro hub. Sometimes you can just use the synchro hub as a sliding weight to knock off the 1st gear bearing sleeve. Be carefull, or you send balls & springs all over the place if you split the synchro hub... If the bearing sleeve is too tight, you can either use a long-arm puller, or do what I do. Pop the synchro hub (inside a plastic bag!) and carefully knock it off with a soft drift.  Or use a bearing splitter and press out the shaft - whatever tools are at hand and whatever floats your boat. You then have access to the two plungers securing 2nd gear (after sliding odd the sync hub). Luckily, you only need to depress one at a time to fully rotate the lock ring.  The lock rings are a tight fit to the splines and get pushed to the side by the plungers... Sometimes they just click into place & come off, sometimes it takes ages to align them... I took apart two shafts today. One I needed 15 minutes, one was done in 2. And that's it, the main shaft is disassembled.  Pictured also: the tools I used. A watch screw driver with a socket on top. Makes it less painfull, since you need to depress the plungers with quite some force, I use the palm of my hand to push the screw driver in. As said - it can take some time and really hurt with just a plain screw driver. Part 2: check for wear. Now we can inspect any part of the gearbox. Don't be blinded by it's appearance, I've found truly perfect gears in a 'box full of black sludge and dirt - and I had a super-clean gearbox which was totaly mullerd and beyond any use. Main shaft. It has 3 bearing journals, all need to be in good condition.  ^this would be excellent. Some running marks from the rollers are ok, but any pitting or scores and I'd rather not re-use it. also check the inside bearing journal of the 1st motion shaft & laygear.  ^this is utter scrap. Worn/pitted 1st motion bearing journal & damaged 1st motion gear.  ^broken gear teeth, also scrap. Next check the running surface of the baulk rings. It's not unusual for them to be damaged, they'r coated with some sort of molybdenium coating if I remember right. Which may come loose or chip off.  ^in this case a bit of a bumer, since the little dog teeth are in very good condition. And these are the next big thing to inspect. They do a lot of work, and if the baulk rings fail or don't have enough time to synchronise gear speed, they crash together. That's the grinding noise you get.  ^these are hardly worn and sharp. Perfect.  ^these - I'd re-use them. But they are a lot more worn. If possible, I'd replace them. basically, the "rounder" they are and the deeper a groove/ridge the have to the top, the more scrap they are.  ^if you look close, you can see a liiittle piece that's chipped off. This isn't as dramatic as rounded teeth. It'll still engage well. But the rounder they are, the less "guidance" they have to align with it's opposing part. So basically; the sharper the teeth, the better they bite. Te most wear is usually found on 2nd gear. And don't forget to check the reverse gear. They are not synchronised... There's also a variant with a two-piece bushing. Don't use it, they'r known to come loose and prevent you from using reverse. Use the r-gear with the full-lenght bush!  Needle bearings may also be damaged, but it's usually the plastic caged bearings that break.  ^they are cheap enough to not risk re-using this... you need to consider the time and effort it takes to get to those parts again - if in doubt, replace them. I'm in the very lucky position to have a huuge supply of 2nd hand parts. But; the parts that are broken on your gearbox break in most other peoples gearboxes too. Like 2nd gear. If you need to buy new gears or synchro hubs, a gearbox rebuild can get expensive pretty quick, despite the low cost of the rebuild kits... And you will not know what needs replacing until you took the gearbox apart. Plan your budget for the worst case scenario (worst case - you need a new 2nd gear, 1st motion & main shaft & laygear). If the idler gear has failed, you may have to bin the gearbox case as well, or have it machined (if that's possible, probably is within limits) - which will add up to the cost of rebuilding it. and take your time to CLEAN everything!! There's probably a lot of road dirt on the outside - clean it off. All of it. Untill every spot on your gearbox is shiney aluminium. Nothing worse than having a grain of sand stuck between the gears on inside a bearing.  ---- At the end of my working time today, I had a full set of gears & synchro hubs in very good to perfect condition.  And I'm still so thankfull that I was allowed to buy all those parts, they are invaluable to me! They truly are. That's enough gearhead talk for today. Cheers, Jan |
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Dec 27, 2017 18:33:19 GMT
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Part 3: re-assembly With every surface that touches a bearing inspected, everything cleaned as good as possible - it is time to put it all back together. For 2nd gear, there's two holes in the gear that allow you to push in both plungers. It's a lot easyer than it appears, take two smal punches and push/rotate the lock ring into position with your thumbs.  And now's the point where you should NOT forget to add the baulk ring! And speaking of which; old ones can be re-used if the gap towards the gear is 1mm or more. The trouble with new rings is; the often leave a LOT more space. This leads to the whole synchro hub assembly being too wide, the baulk rings are permanently engaged. Some people run them in with a drill, some machine them smaler - I use a new ring on 2nd gear and then re-use old rings, if the gap is above 1mm. Next you can push on the synchro hub and put on 1st gear bearing sleeve.  Next, 3rd gear can be locked in place. Or you install this first and then 1st gear sleeve & synchro - don't matter... The lock ring for 3rd has a little cut-out that allows you to push the plunger in:  And then - we can slowly start to think about securing the gearbox on the work bench. I bolted a piece of wood to the top. Against which I can rest the gearbox.  Next: installation of reverse gear & main shaft assembly / 3rd motion shaft. Lower it into the case, careful rest the synchro hubs into the selector forks. Speaking of which; they can be worn too! If the groove has gotten too wide, they will not push the synchro all the way and leave the dog teeth only partially engaged... Crunchy shifts and popping out of gear is a possible result. So check these as well!! And be carefull not to pop a synchro hub. If you do or have to; they are pretty easy to re-assemble: It is not impossible to re-assemble them inside the gearbox, but it's a true, royal pain in the a§$. Wide cable tie, hose clamp, thin fingers a lot of patience and a lot or cursing. But it's possible, I've done it a few times. But - avoid it at all cost!  But back to the gearbox; now's the time to install the oil strainer or competition oil pick-up tube. The stock strainer goes in before the laygear, the competition thing you need to install with the laygear. Bit fiddly. And I HIGHLY recommend using the competition oil pick-up!!! It does a 100% job at preventing oil pressure droping in fast corners. 100%!  Next; 1st motion. Press on the bearing and knock it into the case. Don't forget to install the baulk ring & roller bearing!!   I use a soft punch for the job, brass or aloominum. Next is the double row main bearing. There are a couple of possible ways to install those two bearings: - You can install the main bearing first. This involves the risk of pushing the main shaft too far back and pop the synchro hubs (the selector forks can only travel so far). In the past I've used a piece of wood to prevent the mainshaft from moving backwards. - Installing 1st motion first and then the main bearing; there's a chance to crush the roller bearing between 1st motion & main shaft. Also the baulk rings may get hammered onto the synchro cones. I use a method inbetween; I install 1st motion first (carefull to line up roller bearing inside 1st motion), but don't knock the bearing in all the way into the gearbox case. Then I install the double row main bearing. And I put on the pinion gear & nut to tighten the main shaft against the bearing (as far as possible). Since I use a punch to knock in the bearing, the pinion prevents the punch from slipping and breaking/damaging the bearing cage.  Also gives me good visual feedback what the mainshaft does. I tighten the nut as I go along, so the main shaft can't travel the opposite direction too far. Whichever way you choose is up to you. I'm doing it this way and it works well for me. There are many ways to skin a cat... Now's a good time to check the clearance for the laygear. It should be somewhere between 0.05 to 0.15mm. If it's way off, you need to find a different set of thrust washers. Next we need to install the main bearing retainer. For this, the retainer for reverse & laygear shaft need to be locked. That's why we need to check 6 correct laygear endfloat first. Rotate the shafts until the key slides in.  Then install the bearing retainer without any shims. Put in the bolts and tighten them with your fingers, until snug. Just snug, don't tughten them. Now slide a feeler gauge between case & retainer and measure the gap. And select shims according to the manual.   And now we are almost there. Of course I can do this within a couple of hours, I have a good stash of shims & thrust washers & bearing retainers to play with. If you need to order them, it may take a lot longer...  Now you need to rotate the gear selector to the 9 o'clock position and select 1st & 4th gear. This locks up the rotating assembly to torque the nuts. Now the main shaft may be stuck together or locked bafore you torqued down the main bearing nut - this is normal. But it should rotate freely once torqued down. But that's a job for tomorrow. Today's last job was to re-assemble the speedo drive with new seal & gaskets.  And then cold started to creep inside my workshop, so I called it a day.  Cheers, Jan
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Dec 28, 2017 17:30:54 GMT
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Part 4: differential calculations Today I started by unboxing the Minispares cross-pin differential.  Instructions included, well & clear. Don't feel like repeating. But it's actually pretty simple to dismantle & assemble. They even include an allen key. Without I'd be screwed, since all my stuff is metric  Bolted the CROWN wheel on, knocked over the locktabs - all good. Except one locktab was off by 1.5mm and needed it's holes enlarged quite a bit. But the diff itself is realy beautifully machined, the fit of the 4 pins is just amazing!  Can you see the spider gears tied together with a cable tie in the background? They may have killed me. And they are the reason I had to pull a freshly rebuilt gearbox. And this is why I'm now going for the cross-pin diff. When I rebuild this gearbox fpr the first time (this is now the third time ), I thought it was a good idea to add the spider gears with a bronze bushing. Since I had nothing but badly worn diff pins in my collection. So I ordered new parts - and was happy. Until one day, not many kilometers later (about 5000) I took a corner with some good speed, with the throttle depressed (as you do if you drive a Mini fast) - when all of a sudden I heard a loud BANG and the steering locked up, sending me on the opposite lane of the road and nearly off the other side of road altogether before I could safe it. With oncoming traffic - I would have had no chance... Very luckily the opposite lane was empty. The rason was a blocked diff, due to the spiders failing.   Sent debris everywhere and lead to yet another rebuild... Now they are aware that some pins don't work with the bushed gears. Back then every parts dealer tried to draw a curtain of silence, but apparently I was not alone with this issue. But back to more delightfull topics; now's a good time to torque down the main nuts of the gearbox. 200nm, x2. I strapped the gearbox to the workbench with two large g-clamps.  Then it's time to lock all the bolts & nuts. Pro-tipp: use a pipe-wrench   And then the diff can enter the case. The bearings need a thrust load. Resp. the metal-caged roller bearings need only a tiny amount, the late style with the half-exposed plastic cage (in lack of precise terminology) need an actually preload. , Now there's debate how to correctly measure & torque down the diff & side covers. I'm explaining what I did and always do. And so far it seems to work, but I'm not in the high-performance engine league. Set the diff with a bias to the right (flywheel) side of the gearbox. Don't forget to install the retainer bush & shift rod detent ball & spring!  Then the diff cover can go on, tighten the 4 large bolts with you fingers, not tighter. The bearings need to be able to move. Then the right (flywheel side) side cover can be bolted on, with gasket. Tighten it down a good amount. Now install the left side cover without gasket. Tighten the bolts so the covers is just about without any play. Less then finger tight, just so you can't pull it back & forth. Measure the gap towards the diff cover/gearbox housing.  Now measure the compressed thickness of the gasket. I do this on the cover that's already tightened down. The metal caged bearings need about 0.025-0.05 pre-load, the modern half-open-plastic-cage bearings need 0.1mm pre-load. Calculate the required thickness of shims and install them. What I do now is to loosen the bolts of the right side cover, and nip them up, just a tad. Then torque down the diff cover and then torque down the side covers. Others may tell you to do it the other way around. What I do is basically have everything nipped up and then torque it down. Note if you diff cover was installed with or without a gasket! And re-install it with or without. Next the speedo gear drive can go back on. I took the liberty to cut off the gasket where it overhangs the speedo drive housing. In my experience it's just a trap for dirt.  In the past I have experimented with a baffle to reduce oil slosh - but to no huge effect. It took a liiittle bit longer for the oil pressure to drop (with std. oil pick-up), but not dramatically. So this time I didn't bother. The competition oil pick-up does a perfect job.  ^I think this is what's currently in the car. But anyway, with the diff installed and the speedo drive on - all that's left is the transfer case & idler end float. But that's a job for another day. The gearbox itself is now finished an ready for use. All the gears rotate easily and free, you can rotate everything idependently, nothing is locked up, nothing binds - should be good!  Here's a video I took many years ago that shows how you should be able to counter-rotate the shaft & gears. If this works, the baulk rings have sufficent gaps to the gears - it should work smoothly. And that's it for today. Hope you enjoyed the ride so far. Cheers, Jan
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Dec 29, 2017 20:58:49 GMT
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Fantastic thread. My first car was also a Mini back in 1997. I've kust bought a 1987 1000 and plan on building up a 1293 turbo. Your gearbox write up will be extremely helpful. Keep up the good work.
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Dec 30, 2017 14:53:59 GMT
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I love yer Mini.
And the detail in the thread is invaluable.
Just to be awkward have you side on pics of your Mini with the various wheels you have fitted??
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Dec 30, 2017 22:05:38 GMT
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Thank you! I don't have any pictures - since I never fitted any of those wheels to the car I only ever had one tyre put on a Momo.  But I'm eager to put the Remotecs on! ----- Back to the gearbox. Part 5: transfer case & idler gear This is the notorious weak-point of all transversely mounted A-Series engines. To illustrate to those who are not familiar with this setup:  ^the hollow gear to the left is the primary gear. It takes the clutch plate and the crank shaft rotates inside it, if the clutch is depressed. In the middle is the famous idler gear. This transmits all the torque from the crank into the gearbox, via the input shaft/1st motion shaft. Which is pictured on the right side. The idler gear & input gear both have bearings that rest in the transfer case. Removing them can be tricky, it's best to use proper bearing pullers. The input gear outer race is located with a big circlip. I found an o-ring hook works pretty well to remove it:  My preferred method of removing the bearing race is both controversial & unconventional. I heat the case with a blow torch and tap it onto a piece of wood. I've seen people smash cases to pieces - so I'm not recommending this method. Doesn't take a lot of force, though.  Then the idler gear. This is seated a LOT tighter, the heat & smash approach never worked for me with this. What I do; and again this is probably a bit unorthodox - I remove the rollers and insert a ground down washer. Then I put the case on the ground, stand on it and pull the idler bearing with a BIG slide hammer (5kg).   Pulling the idler gear on the gearbox case is a lot simpler. Takes a socket, bolt, washers & nut. And some common household hand tools.  For installing the bearing, I got all fancy and made a tool on the lathe. It's not necessary, but why not...   That's how far I got, until social interactions were called in... But the next step is very, very important. Setting the idler gear end float. Too tight - possible failure. Too lose: possible failure. The issues is that you have two steel washers running on aluminium faces. Without the proper clearance & lubrication, this can lead so serious & early failure of all involved components. The Achilles tendon of the Mini power plant. Cheers, Jan |
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Dec 31, 2017 13:48:10 GMT
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Intermission: I knocked the paint of the ribs of the valve cover... Been meaning to do this for - I don't know. 10 years? It would have benefited from a re-spray (when I painted it it was the first time I used crackle paint) - but you now what? It's never bothered me. But with the ribs painted, it's nice shape didn't really show. And those ribs that run down the side were the reason I once parted with a (back then, to me) load of money and had it shipped literally around the globe.  And that's all for today. And I'm not going to polish it either, a 160 grit sanding finish is all it needs. Cheers, Jan
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Nice write up on the gearbox build. I've got a hybrid one to build for my car - 4 synchro remote with a magic wand shift on it.
That looks like an Aussie made rocker cover?
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Jan 21, 2018 16:41:19 GMT
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That looks like an Aussie made rocker cover? It is! I had it imported from Oz many years ago. I think they'r very pretty without being too bulky like so many aftermarked covers... Anyway; I interrupted the gearbox build, since I discovered something that nearly made me cry - and totally dragged my mojo to the bottom of the ocean. I don't know why, but the laygear is damaged. Several teeth are chipped. This was not evident with the wax on it, and I didn't look - 'cause it's brand new(ish). There are several options on how to proceed now. 1 - ignore it. Not wise... 2 - find a replacement. Will take ages probably... 3 - transform it into a regular gearbox. Means different laygear & 1st motion. 4 - buy straight cut gears and build it again... 5 - find a place able & willing to repair my laygear. Most probably very expensive... To distract myself, I made a start on removing the old engine, which has a good gearbox attached to it. Albeit with a 3,76:1 final drive. Started with all the plumbing & radiator & stuff...  And then I put it on axle stands - for the first time ever. I kid you not - I never had this car on axle stands! And to be honest - I have no idea why.  Made it so much easyer to remove the exhaust & selector rods. And then I actually had the engine out pretty quick, much quicker than I thought. But I think I'm going to re-install my chain hoist, I didn't like pulling a Mini engine with an hydraulic hoist one bit... With the chain hoist I could grab the engine & lift it at the same time. With the hydraulic lift - blargh.  But - it's out. And now I can start cleaning up the engine bay - it's a total mess. And finally retro-fit a screen washer, since the car never had one. I removed it when I installed the brake booster, and never fitted it again. But nowadays it's a TÜV fail if it doesn't work, back then it was not. And that is all for todays update. Both bad & good news. Cheers, Jan |
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And I don't get it on the road this year, I'd be just as delighted 
