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Apr 20, 2006 15:00:53 GMT
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Anyone ever used Stealth Racing in Warwickshire?
I'm looking at having my Mk2 played with a bit and wondered if any of you (or any of your mates) had any experience, I don't wanna get bitten with a massive bill for a curse word service!
Anyone else got any recommendations for people just to give a 16v K-Jet (KR block) Mk2 a good tune up and get the best out of it?
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Apr 20, 2006 15:20:04 GMT
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its not too local to you but my best mates brother runs www.strictlydubs.comvery good at what they do, based down in essex. Ask for Paul, and say Keith recommended em.
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Apr 20, 2006 16:26:52 GMT
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Distance isn't really a problem, I just have a very limited budget (circa 2/300 quid) and just want good value for money, better running would be good, horsepower increase (with dyno plot) would be great...
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Apr 20, 2006 16:28:59 GMT
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pauls number is 07803 964640 if you want to discuss things with him
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Stu
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Posts: 2,913
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Apr 20, 2006 21:14:52 GMT
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I've used Stealth Racing and would recommend them, like probably every other Mk2 16v owner in Club GTI! I must say that once Vince set up my (then standard) Mk2 it flew (148bhp/124lbsft average 35ish mpg) on the 1.8 engine) but it did have a problem with cold starts due to a knackered warm up regulator (WUR), not their fault but their setup brought out the problem. To be honest, if you know what you're doing a 16v is quite easy to set up DIY style if you have or can borrow an emissions tester and set of fuel pressure gauges. That said I'm still looking for somewhere more local to me to take mine to be RR'd, just curious to know what kind of power it has now with the 2 litre engine. I may well end up going back to Stealth though as they know the subject inside out. As I recall a RR tune/setup incorporating the famous 'WUR mod' was around £50 - 75 depending how long it takes.
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Last Edit: Apr 20, 2006 21:15:37 GMT by Stu
'89 BMW E30 325i Sport, '04 MINI Cooper S, '09 Volvo V70 D5
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Sounds interesting!
Any more for any more?
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Apr 21, 2006 10:48:24 GMT
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It's already about 2 seconds quicker than it should be
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Apr 21, 2006 10:49:20 GMT
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It's already about 2 seconds quicker than it should be could actually reduce the power then!
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Apr 21, 2006 10:56:07 GMT
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It's already about 2 seconds quicker than it should be Nah, it only ran 16.2 at the RWYB earlier this year so it's down a second somewhere, hence I don't think a tuneup would go amiss. And yes, I've changed the oil (since it's been falling all over the road) and plugs etc.
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Stu
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Apr 21, 2006 14:37:31 GMT
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Are you running it on Optimax? I've found with mine it makes quite a lot of difference, you can advance the timing a tad without the pinking you'd get on 95 ron and it's definitely a lot smoother.
I'd give it a DIY once over, check intercam timing, ignition timing, all vacuum lines, clean out block breather, set idle and CO up properly if you can and see how it goes. To be honest with that 1/4 time it won't be far off well setup already!
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'89 BMW E30 325i Sport, '04 MINI Cooper S, '09 Volvo V70 D5
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Apr 21, 2006 14:55:41 GMT
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How do you check the inter cam timing? I guess that's the timing between the exhaust and inlet cams? I've looked at vacuum lines etc and they all look cool. I'll go check the breather later How do you set the idle and CO (I don't have a CO machine)
16.2 was a BAD time for this car, it reliably ran 15.5 and as low as 15.3 all year last year, I just want it back to those times!
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Stu
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Posts: 2,913
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Apr 21, 2006 15:10:21 GMT
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How do you check the inter cam timing? I guess that's the timing between the exhaust and inlet cams? I've looked at vacuum lines etc and they all look cool. I'll go check the breather later How do you set the idle and CO (I don't have a CO machine) 16.2 was a BAD time for this car, it reliably ran 15.5 and as low as 15.3 all year last year, I just want it back to those times! Cam timing is nice and easy, I took off the rocker cover and lined up the marks on the two camshafts so they face each other as per Haynes manual. Then you can check and set the timing of the cam pulley (top end) with the belt on to the crank pulley (bottom end) using the marks on the flywheel through the green bung in the gearbox hole, or find TDC with something stuck in the plug hole on cylinder #1 and line that up, re-tension the belt. The intermediate shaft isn't timed like on 8v's so no worries with that. The car will seem to run great with the cambelt one tooth out either way, you'd never really notice until you put it right and suddenly seem to liberate a load more power! The idle can be setup easily. Warm the car up to normal temp first. Set the ignition timing to 6 degrees BTDC first though with a strobe and the marks on the flywheel again. Then disconnect the block to airbox breather, then disconnect red/black connection by the coil, that elimates the idle stabilisation valve (ISV) circuit and run the engine. Set the idle using the bypass screw on the throttle body to 950rpm, switch off and reconnect breather and red/black lead to reconnect the ISV. Without a CO machine or fuel pressure gauges that's as far as you can go DIY style really. You can obviously rotate the dizzy to advance the timing a little if you want but be wary of pinking/overheating - 6 degrees BTDC will be fine unless you're always running 98 ron and want every last once of power out of it. I'll see if I can dig out a step by step guide as that's all off the top of my head!
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Last Edit: Apr 21, 2006 15:15:16 GMT by Stu
'89 BMW E30 325i Sport, '04 MINI Cooper S, '09 Volvo V70 D5
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Apr 21, 2006 15:23:45 GMT
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Once I've fixed my dodgy wheel bearing (don't laugh Mr Dolby!) then I'll have a tinker... Now wait for the "I've broken my Golf " thread on Monday morning...
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Apr 21, 2006 15:28:12 GMT
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I can't believe that Get yourself home and get some work done!!!! ;D
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Apr 21, 2006 15:28:31 GMT
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Once I've fixed my dodgy wheel bearing (don't laugh Mr Dolby!) then I'll have a tinker... Now wait for the "I've broken my Golf " thread on Monday morning... haha!
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