|
|
|
the n/s/r and o/s/r arch on the curse word mobille were scabby. so far ive knocked it back with 240. taped up and papered up primed and primed some more removed the paper removed the tape then dumped it outside so whats next? smooth it in with 240 then 1200 all over then 1200 wet all over then mask any glass/fake chrome panel wipe paint (spray can) clearcoat or is that wrong. I'm not bothered about makeing a great job (or id have used filler on the arches), i just want some practise for the capri. ta.
|
|
|
|
|
|
painting metalicsBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
|
|
I'm not really an expert on paint / bodywork stuff, but I usually leave a bigger area un-masked. That way you wont have a ridge of new paint to cut in. Just let the spray thin out around the edges of the repair, and T-Cut it once it's hardened.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
What you want to do is soft-mask the edges. Get some 2" tape (1" will do it but its fiddlier) and fold it back on itself widthwise. Use this to mask the edges so you get a feathered edge when you spray, rather than a ridge.
I'd rub down the primer edges with 180 / 240 to feather out the repair, then dewax and scuff up an area larger than the repair. I'd use 400 or so for this. Then apply the silver over that in light coats.
Then apply the clear once the silver has flashed off.
Once this is cured I'd use 1200 / 1500 and then Farecla to polish it up.
This should give an "acceptable" repair.
If yoou want to go for a "good" repair you'll end up flashing silver in for a much wider area to hide the repair. This is becauyse metallics are almost impossible to match exactly so you have to hide the difference by blending in the new paint over a wider area.
Doing this "properly" you'd mask off the lights, screen, etc. and abraid the whole bonnet, wing etc. with a scotchbrite pad, then blow across the silver allowing it to fade out towards the edges. then clear the whole bonnet, wing etc.
With metallics the "weight" of the paint affects the hue, so to get it right you need to spray some test cards and hold it up against the car to see what matches best in terms of mix, distance, fan, pass speed, etc.
This is why you can usually see repairs on metallic cars, especially silver ones.
Good luck.
|
|
1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
|
|
|
dp
Posted a lot
DP Race Tech
Posts: 1,044
|
|
|
dave364634 in da house: so whats next?alistairk in da house: Gving some real good expert advicedave364634 in da house: or is that wrongI would say if this is what you painted primer on top of...... Don't waste alistark's excelent advice since in two months it will look the same again, get it clean go over it again sanding it down, if you can't get to every small part of rust sanding use some kind of liquid & gel rust remover to get it ALL clean before giving it a coat of primer and then follow above advice....... DP says: It's all in the groundwork (!?!?!?!?).....
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
^^^^ fair point, we'll see how long it lasts then. todays progress; 240 feathered. ive not got any de-wax, so i used panel wipe. 400c the area and a bit more around it. painted (4 ish coats). i thik flash means dry so i left it at that. ill get some 1200 in for tomorrow and have a play with the clear coat. bonnetgot a bit of a run at the bottom lhs. in order after sanding the after each coat. archrandom order?
|
|
|
|
thevert
Part of things
Mini builder
Posts: 358
|
|
|
not bad man!
|
|
|
|
Rob
Posted a lot
You know, for kids!
Posts: 2,515
|
|
|
All respect for having a go !! (not meant to be patronising at all) I think it's pretty brave to come on here and show us the fruits of your labour and then take the advice and then not do too bad a job! You know more now than when you started, that's the point innit? GOOD WORK THAT MAN ! Alistairk - must have been good advice... good luck with the capri !
|
|
Last Edit: Apr 4, 2006 22:06:28 GMT by Rob
|
|
|
|
|
i would have done work on the capri today, but it woldn't start (again).
its usually battery or lack of juice.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
all this just reminds me i still have 3 cars to paint still the cressida has some issues with rear arches and the bottoms of the doors not to mention the bloody great dent in the door plus there also the fact the paint don't match from front to back then theres my mk3 corty estate thats been hand painted been done very well but still hand painted so will need bare mataling and starting from scratch then there is the van i still need to finish the bodywork but at least that has no rust but keep at it dude your not doing to bad a job there really take it you used rattle cans there colour doesn't look like to bad a match for a silver
|
|
|
|
|
|
painting metalicsBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
|
|
Good work! My painting leaves a lot to be desired - always getting runs, and I don't really have the patience to do all the prep work properly. My excuse is normally "that's the look I'm going for" ;D
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Silver is a bee-atch to match. I did a Victor in the original Sebring Starmist and the match was a mile off when you opened the bonnet etc. And I had a film-lift issue when I demasked, so I soft masked it and blew in the problem area and it was at least a semi-tone darker. All I'd done was used a touchup gun in place of my usual gun and it threw the colour right out.
|
|
1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
|
|
|
|
|
yeaj, i used rattle cans.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
TOP WORK! i agree completely with marina V8 - to come on here and show what you've done, and take on board whats said and produce a result like that you should be well pleased!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
You got my message about warming the cans in a bucket of hot water? It really helps the paint flow smoothly at this time of year.
|
|
1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
|
|
|
|
|
dp said that a few weeks ago i think, and i tried it the other week when painting an area on the 411 and it worked a treat
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
A chap I know (maybe knew, not seen him in a while...) uses a hairdryer with rattle cans. Says it improves the flow / pattern / warm air flow /etc etc. Just uses one of those low power £5 from Argos type ones and "blows" the paint as its sprayed out of the can so it travels in a warm airstream. Me, I'd be worried about a spark from the motor igniting the propellant, but he did some really really sweet work with rattle cans you couldn't tell were not factory paint.
|
|
1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
|
|
|
|
|
crikey, I'm not sure if i could co-ordinate my left hand and right hand to work so closely and so well together! kinda reminds me to rubbing your belly and patting your head at the same time. i'd end up blow drying the car and painting my hair! ;D
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I leave them on the radiator for a bit before use, giving them a shake everytime I walk past. A heat gun on the panel to warm it a bit before painting can help as well ;D With any painting its all in the prep though ;D Laying the colour on is the slightly easier bit ;D Fair play to you, looks like a nice job.... I am not painting anything until the ambient temp comes up, those extra few degrees make such a difference ;D
|
|
|
|