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Mar 22, 2006 22:12:05 GMT
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ive got a sill and possibly an arch to do. sillwhats the proceedure? I'm guessing id have to use the full skin sill to avoid any funny finish. do i have to do anything to the old sill like beat it in a bit, or does the new one just go over the top? archthis just goes over the top, and I'm not suppose to cut it down or anything yeah? so then lets say its welded in and (the weld) is angle grinded down, how far away from the arch should i go with the filler? say the arch is touching the original rear wing how it should. cars a mk3 capri. ta.
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Mr K
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,993
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Mar 22, 2006 22:26:13 GMT
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do i have to do anything to the old sill like beat it in a bit, or does the new one just go over the top? this just goes over the top, and I'm not suppose to cut it down or anything yeah? no point in doing anything if your not going to cut the old rot out. cut it back, cut it back hard!!!
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Mar 22, 2006 22:40:16 GMT
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If you are doing a quick repair you can just weld it over the top, (that probably happens to 90% of all sills fitted). If you are going to do it to last a long time then really you need to get all the rust cut out and start with good clean metal. Have a look at Rev. Dick Deluxes thread on escort rot. It pays for itself in the long run.
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doing good body repairsBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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Mar 22, 2006 22:54:09 GMT
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Yeah I'd definitely chop out all the old grot. With the arch, i'd cut out as little as possible of the old 'un. Cutting the new panel to the same shape for an edge-to-edge seam is a pig if you don't have something like a plasma cutter (and let's face it not many of us have access to that kind of gear!), but a bit of trial and error with the snips should get you pretty much there. Otherwise you could always lap the seam, but it's not as neat (although I've done it this way before). With the filler, I've found you always have to cover more panel than you'd think to get a smooth finish, but as long as it isn't trowelled on an inch thick, a thin skim of wag isn't much of a big deal.
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Mar 22, 2006 22:57:56 GMT
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get your mate AlistairK to give you some advice! Some legendary rust-fettling going on on his Vauxhall.
don't just lash on new bits over rusty old ones though, that sounds sh*t.
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1972 Fiat 130 1985 Talbot Alpine 1974 Lancia Beta Saloon 1975 + 1986 Mazda 929 Koop + Wagon 1982 Fiat Argenta 2.0 iniezione elettronica 1977 Toyota Carina TA14 BEST CAR EVER!!!!!!!! 1979 Datsun B310 Sunny 4-dr 1984 Audi 200 Quattro Turbo 1983 Honda Accord 1.6 DX GONE1989 Alfa 75 2.0 TS Mr T says: TREAT YO MOTHER RIGHT!
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Mar 23, 2006 19:34:55 GMT
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mmmmmmmm plasma cutter. I had the money saved up for one and then had to spend it on a new bathroom suite. Basically - with sills see how bad they are gone. If its just holed cut it out nice and square and weld in a section. Get some gap clamps from Frost so you can get a nice butt weld on it (or V the edges). Don't joddle or lap joint it as moisture will get in the unsealed side of the weld and the patch will rust out again. It the sill is bad enough then cut it out and weld in a new one. A cover sill is fine in most cases but don't apply it as a cover, the rust does not sleep! Again butt welding is best, although the lower flange can be lap welded over as you can seal it either with weld or brush on seam sealer. So long as you apply weld-though zinc primer to the lapped area it should be fine andmoisture shouldn't cause it to rust out again. Well, not for a long time anyway. Cavity filling anti rust wax / foam stuff (Waxoil or similar) will help, but I'm not a great fan because its flamable and if you ever have to weld round there again - well - a fire in a box section is hard to put out! Propper way to do wheel arches is to cut them out and butt weld in a replacement. OK way to do them is to cut them out, joddle the edge and lap weld the repair section in then apply seam sealer to the reverse of the lap to stop moisture gettingin and rusting it. Again, weld through zinc primer helps here too. Don't just weld them over the top. You might as well just wob filler in the holes if you're doing that. The rust will break though.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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thevert
Part of things
Mini builder
Posts: 358
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Mar 23, 2006 19:39:49 GMT
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After, fill it with rust killing expanding foam, am going to try this myself, hope it works
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street
Posted a lot
6.2 ft/lbs of talk
Posts: 4,662
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Mar 23, 2006 19:45:17 GMT
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Rust killing expanding foam? Ive never heard of that, has anyone had experience with it?
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Mar 23, 2006 20:11:32 GMT
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I knew a chap who waxoiled his almost restored Stag, then did a bit more welding on the sill - nee naw nee naw nee naw, still, repairing it again after the fire kept him busy!
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Peugeot 307sw - Suzuki SV650S - MX5.
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Mar 23, 2006 21:27:00 GMT
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sill; arch is more dodgy filler than rust.
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doing good body repairsrustingdeathtrap
@GUEST
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Mar 23, 2006 21:37:32 GMT
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If thats all it is i think i'd have a stab at patching it up rather than replacing the whole sill. Whats it like underneath, has the inner gone?
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Mar 23, 2006 21:46:23 GMT
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You can buy a whole replacement sill. Just cut the old one off with the grinder and weld on the new one. Bodging the new one over the old one is just going to make it worse in the long run, it'll trap water and rust through in no time. Besides you'll use less filler if you line it up properly ;D
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I'd just do the rusty bit if the rest of the sill is sound. Cutting a whole sill off is a ball ache of a job.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Just noticed your pic. I agree with AlistairK (hotrodders unite!) I'd probably check the rest of the sill and just replace that back piece if the rest of it is sound.
If you find it's shagged in and out, think long and hard before you go cutting it all off. The alternative is a better nick car and it's not cowardly to walk away from it. It's a helluva lot of work and likely to put you right off it! I lost interest in mine for about 2 years and it just sat there because it simply wasn't getting anywhere with the amount of work I had to do.
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Due to fact it appears only rear of your sill has gone it would be creating a lot of time and trouble to replace whole sill. What I would do (and have done in past) is buy a complete sill (cost approx £12) and cut off/from 'new' sill what is required as a repair patch for rear of your sill that way your 'repair patch' will be the same contours. bap.dominohosting.biz/bap/bapdb01.nsf/Plookup2/30-02-003FORDCAPRI%20MK2-374-87!EditDocument&Ret=ALL Remember these days a 'patch' has to be totally seam welded if it is a structual area (unless you can do a very neat 'skim' of filler ).
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Mar 24, 2006 10:50:22 GMT
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Since the original sill would have been spot welded, you could drill it and 'plug weld' it, certainly on the bottom seam, at least. Like this: As for the wheelarch, if the outer's gone the inner will be gone too... You could use another outer arch panel to repair it ( after you've fitted the outer...) or, if it's not gone too far up the inner, cut off all the rot and bend it to meet the outer arch, so the lip of the arch is a single skin. Also, personaly, I'd lap joint the repair panel behind the original metal, seems easier to get a good finish when you skim it with filler. You can tack weld the outer panel to avoid distortion... work from the centre outwards, leave a gap between the welds first and then gradualy fill the gaps until you've got a weld agout every 10mm or so.... Just how I'd do it... not saying it's the 'right' way, before anyone jumps on me... PS: CUT ALL THE ROT OUT!!!
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... the only injury I sustained was a bumped head when I let the seatbelt of without realizing the car was upside down and that's not really the car's fault.
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Mar 24, 2006 11:49:20 GMT
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mattblack! A very nice/neat job you've done there!
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