Nick
Posted a lot
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PrimerNick
@rearwheelnick
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Right guys, i have my car baremetalled in places and its sitting out in the carport but still pretty open to the elements, so whats the best primer to use to stop the baremetalled bits rusting up again?
red or grey oxide? or something else?
been told by a mate red oxide is no good for spraying paint onto?
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idea stolen from rattely eddie.
this weeks car count "5"
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SkoCan
Posted a lot
Quando omni flunkus, mortati
Posts: 1,916
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Primer won't stop it from rusting, only slow it a bit. No weathering ability.
And of course you can paint over red oxide primer. Just depends on what you're using for a top coat.
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Nick
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,483
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PrimerNick
@rearwheelnick
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ah well slowing rusting a bit will have to do for the time being, so what exactly does stop rusting then? which part of the whole slapping layers of paint etc on a car?>
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idea stolen from rattely eddie.
this weeks car count "5"
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Primerslater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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top coat
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61stu
Part of things
Posts: 302
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if you're spaying a bare metalled car i'd use etch primer for the first coat, followed by primer then top coat
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2-pack should stop it rusting as I understand it. It's not porus like celly.
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PrimerBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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If you get a good Zinc primer it's supposed to stop rusting a bit better. Put anything on it for now, just to stop it being exposed
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thevert
Part of things
Mini builder
Posts: 358
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I use "ZINC 182" primer, this stuff stops rust better than normal primer. ZINC 182 is a grey rust inhibiting primer for ferrous surfaces for the promotion of adhesion to metal surfaces.
ZINC 182 forms a durable coating and can be applied by brush, aerosol spray gun
A thing i'm going to try next is Agricultural paint. Cheaper and tougher, good for spraying inside engine bays,roll cages ect.
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Mr K
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,993
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2-pack should stop it rusting as I understand it. It's not porus like celly. 2-Pack isnt recomended for use on firbreglass, due to moisture getting trapped (due to it being too much of a skin - not entirely sure of the ins and outs) but a few scimitar owners have had bad experiances with expensive spray jobs getting micro blisters and lifting too easily. celly for the win... i love the deep dull shine of celly, it rocks the fat one!
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Yeah you're supposed to use a specific primer for 'glass. Mine is all cheapo paint so I'm just going to use the normal stuff, can't see it making much difference. On the other hand, in the time it takes to mask up etc for primer you might as well lay on topcoat as well and save yourself some time.
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dp
Posted a lot
DP Race Tech
Posts: 1,044
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Jonny69 in da house: 2-pack should stop it rusting as I understand it. It's not porus like celly.
ratlookreliant in da house: 2-Pack isnt recomended for use on firbreglass, due to moisture getting trapped
Am I totally lost here?!?!?!?
Topic Rust!!! And you are saying 2-Pack isnt recomended for use on firbreglass my question as follows, when did fibreglass start to rust and did the topic starter not ask for help with something to cover bare metall so it woun't rust!?!?!?!? Sorry if I missed something....
If you have cleaned something from rust and made it bare metall you can use any gloss paint to protect it from rusting again, primer does not seal and will let moisture through. Sometimes when I clean rust and plan on painting later on but not decided on what colour or type of paint to use, i get a cheap rattle can of a light colour gloss just to cover and save it from rusting again, 2 light coats that will sand off easily when I decided what to do later....
DP says: Can't compare apples and oranges......
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PrimerBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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Hehe, I don't think anyone here is saying that fibreglass will rust! ;D Just the usual tangents that these threads tend to shoot off on... interesting stuff
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Mr K
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,993
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Jonny69 in da house: 2-pack should stop it rusting as I understand it. It's not porus like celly. ratlookreliant in da house: 2-Pack isnt recomended for use on firbreglass, due to moisture getting trappedAm I totally lost here?!?!?!? Topic Rust!!! And you are saying 2-Pack isnt recomended for use on firbreglass my question as follows, when did fibreglass start to rust and did the topic starter not ask for help with something to cover bare metall so it woun't rust!?!?!?!? Sorry if I missed something.... DP says: I love apples and oranges...... haha sorry, i wasnt saying fibreglass rusts.... owning 8 fibreglass cars at the moment i can also confirm this. i was just going off on a tangent as per usual, jonny said about 2-pack not being porus, and i was bassically saying that this isnt always a good thing.... on another tangent, what about painting the kitten with a rusty patina.... that would confuse people!!
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dp
Posted a lot
DP Race Tech
Posts: 1,044
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ratlookreliant in da house: what about painting the kitten with a rusty patinaJesse James did just that on the Sour Kraut Bug, the front clip is a fiberglass flip front painted rust... The rest of the car was sanded down to bare metall then they sprayed it with salt water, pi**ed on it and left it out to rust.... DP says: Fake rust is much better than the real stuff.....
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I think even 2 pack primer is porous by nature of the job it has to do...
Ratlook - when you've had as many celly jobs bloom, fade or react as I have you'll start looking at 2 pack in a whole nother light! I'm just starting with it as I'm convinced its the future. Well, at least for the next couple of years until it gets phased out...
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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I think the home mechanic will still be able to get the stuff for "restorations" so don't panic yet Alistair!!! Basically as soon as the water based paints look as shiny as normal paint we'll be using them instead. Just as toxic (in fact worse) but no hydrocarbon thinners I am under the impression.
I was under the impression that 2-K was completely sealing. I might be wrong though.
I'm with DP though, any part you're not thinking of painting for a bit just rattle can on some gloss. This goes for filler as well which will soak up water like a sponge and come back to haunt you big time. Cover it with something shiny.
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2K will be with us for a while longer. HS basecoat will be going before 2K primer/clear goes. Waterbased paints are only really base and primer at the moment and AFAIK theres no real high build and they still need to be top coated with 2K clear.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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If you get a good Zinc primer it's supposed to stop rusting a bit better. Yep, Use High Zinc Primer... BUT primer is porous so you'll have to put a coat of paint on as well. Maybe best at the moment would be some rust converter/primer (even if you don't need it) as some of them say that they protect for 3 months without painting.
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I find Hammerite's quite good to that end, I recently done the engine bay of the Imp in red hammerite to keep the rot away, especially round the battery tray and anywhere that's likely to get covered in antifreeze (it's an Imp so expect some coolant-everywhere whilst bleeding the system hilarity!), of course it took a fair few coats to stop the black paint underneath from showing through so it got slathered on in about five different coats with a bloody big brush! ;D There'll be no rusting in there now, I get the feeling that the engine bay'll still be around long after the rest of the car has long since rusted away, (except the engine, it's aluminium! ;D) ;D
Anyway, yes, spraying it in Hammerite might be a good idea, it's not the cheapest you can get but it's pretty good and you can get it in loads of different colours, plus you can get it in brush on types and as aerosols depending on what job it has to do, so it's handy stuff.
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"He's not the messiah, he's a very naughty boy!"
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dp
Posted a lot
DP Race Tech
Posts: 1,044
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revolution9 in da house: Anyway, yes, spraying it in Hammerite might be a good idea
Yes as a final paint it's great, my Tractor frame will be black Hammerite but as a stop gap (rust) cover for a surface that might be sanded down and get another paint Hammerite is not the way to go, it's way to hard to sand down and it just creates more work....
DP says: Just painted a YZ125 frame Hammerite black and it shines.....
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