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Apr 18, 2010 20:32:56 GMT
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Chaps
I'm going to convert my loft into a 'den' on a budget.
Not going the whole hog of making it a 3rd bedroom, but just decking it out for a tv/stereo etc.
I'm going for a pull down ladder/hatch combo, not a staircase.
A single velux window.
Then il mdf the fllor/inside of the roof.
My only problem is the supports that run along the inside of my roof.
Has anyone done a conversion before and moved/removed these supports?
Cheers
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Current retro - 1996 Alfa Romeo GTV / Daily - 2016 Nissan Qashqai
Previous retros - Prelude, Integra, XR2s, XR3s, Orions, CRXs, Sylvia S12, S13, Pulsar, ZX 16v, 205 Gti, MX5, MR2 etc
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Ray Singh
Posted a lot
More German exotica in my garage now
Posts: 1,993
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Apr 18, 2010 21:08:29 GMT
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Be careful mate - these cross members are the strengthing support fro your whole roof. Do not remove them until you have spoken to a structural engineer.
Post photos up of the a -frame inside your loft and i can give you an idea from what i know.
Worst case you will not be able to remove them without adding structuaral steel beams. Best case you could replace them with a higher cross member to allow good headroom.
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Llewelyn_
Posted a lot
Hi everyone :)
Posts: 1,977
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Apr 18, 2010 21:29:02 GMT
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You can move the joists but you have to install the new joists before cutting the old ones out!
Don't attempt it if you don't know what you are doing but it is entirely possible! (I know because I had to do this when I had my loft converted!
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"Back off man, I'm a Scientist" - Dr. Peter Venkman
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Apr 18, 2010 22:06:43 GMT
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mdf might not be the best thing to use on the roof, all houses need to breath, and condensation will form
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Someone just shot the elephant in the room. |
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Yeah, I've done a loft conversion. My best advice is get friendly with a buiding site. Got any mates in the trade? Sites throw stuff out all the time like tounge and groove floor boarding like Caberdeck - doing it that way is a lot cheaper than buying MDF, and better (water proof, passes load bearing regs, and better acoustic isolation). I converted my 22ft attic into a recording studio and it turned out really nice. The building work itself only cost me about £300 in materials (build it all myself). Breathing shouldn't be too much of an issue, as long as your floor boards are not in compressed contact with the loft insulation, and you don't build the floor all the way to the edge of the space (unusable anyway because of the roof pitch).
The main point though, reagless of if you are making a plush bedroom or a big boys den, is that you provide an up to date electrical ring, passed off by an electrician, and you declare that you have got a 'loft storage area' to your home insurance - or it'll be void - bad times. You arn't allowed to put in a skylight if you live within 30 feet of another house (facing the offending roof) without pp. This will also make things dificult with the insurance, and they may possibly make you reverse all of your work. best avoided.
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Apr 19, 2010 11:01:04 GMT
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If a modern house with pre made roof trusses then you might find the "floor" beams will also not be suitable for anything other than lightweight storage without reinforcement. Also are there load bearing walls underneath to support them otherwise you could have a wide span unsupported.
I had a new bunglaw in 1976 and a nightmare even then to conform to building rules for loft conversion as the trusses weren't strong enough other then to hold up the ceilings !
As other says get proper advise because if you end up causing structual damage (cracked ceilings, broken trusses) etc then your property insurance probably won't cover if due to poor DIY practices.
Paul H
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Apr 24, 2010 18:56:02 GMT
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As above, need to see if it a truss rafter roof. If it is, then there isn't much you can do on the cheep.
If it is not, then you may be able to do something.
Post a few pics of the roof structure and we can see if it is viable.
Lewis
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