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I'm painting a set of wheels and arches gunmetal/bronze, but I don't want them shiny, nor do I want them matt. The finish you see on a metallic car before it's been lacquered is exactly what I want
If I just put a couple of coats of the basecoat on without a lacquer, will it last?
I'm using 2k primarily because the arches and wheels will get a bit of stone rash, and from experience celly won't hold up.
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nah not really
get some matt clear coat and mix n match until you get the sheen you want
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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Fair enough. I'm a tightarse and it's killing me having to pay good money for paint, and the lacquer is going to be another £15 or so, on top of the £15 for the paint, and £15 for hardener.... And the primer... and the etch primer...
It all adds up!
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Last Edit: Apr 9, 2010 15:06:19 GMT by cobblers
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you can use a simple, cheap acylic (1K) clear over most "2k" base. Its usually cheaper. But for wheels I'd want the hardwearing 2K stuff TBH. You get what you pay for.
If its really lacquer, its not 2K. Lacquer means made of shellac which is cellulose derived.
Not many places sell lacquer any more. Usually its a synthetic or 2K clear.
EDIT: too early in the morning of obvious suggestions, but why not get a 2K direct gloss which does not need a clear coat, get this in a satin or matt effect and then you will save the cost of a clear coat.
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Last Edit: Apr 10, 2010 7:29:54 GMT by akku
1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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saaby
Part of things
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Posts: 61
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A couple of Halford rattle cans of Lacquer / clearcoat will seal all up from the weather if its a tightarse job ure after ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png) ;D
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--- If Its Not Broke don't Fix It ---
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Apr 11, 2010 21:05:55 GMT
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Hmm, I think I'll end up having to take what my paint shop has got. I'll see if they do a satin clearcoat (not lacquer ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png) ) or sell a matting agent for the clearcoat. Like you say Alistair I'm going for a 2k clear without doubt - Tight tyres leave the rim lip poking out, and the rear wheels get chipped to hell in weeks ![](http://www.davidartschan.com/clpics/chippedwheel1.jpg) This was 1000 miles after a paint job I did on my breaks at halfords (with halfords stuff) - Upol etch prime, couple of coats of 1k primer and a sand. 5 coats of acrylic metallic base and 4 coats of acrylic clear. They looked lovely for about 10 miles, then started dropping to pieces. The rear arches will be in 2k for the same reason. I'd rather a glossy 2k finish for £30 than matt 1k for £8 which I have to repaint every few weeks!
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Last Edit: Apr 11, 2010 21:06:27 GMT by cobblers
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Apr 11, 2010 22:05:35 GMT
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not much help I know but an inter coat clear should give you the satin finish your after its used for sealing candy's between colour changes on multiple candy colored paint jobs
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Last Edit: Apr 11, 2010 22:09:18 GMT by Deleted
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