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Feb 14, 2006 12:41:56 GMT
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As the Rocco is in poor health, I thought I'd better take the opportunity to service it this weekend (it's been nearly 20k since the last one - so it is due one).
I'm unsure what grade oil I should use in her...... suggestions please.
Also, this is a list of parts I'm going to renew:
Ignition leads Ignition coil Plugs Rotor arm Hall sender Dizzy cap Air filter Oil filter Fuel filter (it had a new alternator belt last month, and the brakes front and back are fine)
Anything else worth changing while I'm at it (apart from the oil and gearbox oil!)?
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I like long walks, especially when they're taken by people I don't like.
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Feb 14, 2006 12:51:51 GMT
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OIL - for normal 1980's (non Turbo) petrol engine: A good 10/40 Semi Synthetic (not fully syn. as the cleaning properties may be too much for an older engine).
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Feb 14, 2006 13:12:50 GMT
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Just bosh some castrol GTX in, Fancy synthetics etc are all very well but GTX is a great choice for an older, lower-tech non turbo engine with a few miles on, specially if you are changing your own oil and can be sure that in the future you’ll be changing it more or less when its due.
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1972 Fiat 130 1985 Talbot Alpine 1974 Lancia Beta Saloon 1975 + 1986 Mazda 929 Koop + Wagon 1982 Fiat Argenta 2.0 iniezione elettronica 1977 Toyota Carina TA14 BEST CAR EVER!!!!!!!! 1979 Datsun B310 Sunny 4-dr 1984 Audi 200 Quattro Turbo 1983 Honda Accord 1.6 DX GONE1989 Alfa 75 2.0 TS Mr T says: TREAT YO MOTHER RIGHT!
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Stu
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,913
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Feb 14, 2006 13:19:09 GMT
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The oil you need is Quanta (Quantum?) Semi Synth - silver container, about £10 for 5 litres at GSF. They will also stock all the other bits you need. I have used this in all my VW's and can't fault it. I change mine every 6 months/6k miles generally. Make sure to use a genuine VW oil filter (also from GSF if you want) as they have a non-return valve in them whereas some don't. I wouldn't bother changing the gearbox oil unless you're having trouble with it to be honest. What about the coolant? That's easy to change and may be past it's best. Use VW G12+ for that, you'll need about two 1.5 litre bottles mixed with water, this helps stop corrosion in the alloy head as well as usual antifreeze properties. Cambelt and tensioner are cheap and easy to change for peace of mind if you aren't sure when they were last done too.
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Last Edit: Feb 14, 2006 13:20:25 GMT by Stu
'89 BMW E30 325i Sport, '04 MINI Cooper S, '09 Volvo V70 D5
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том
Posted a lot
"If in doubt, flat out!"
Posts: 2,707
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Feb 14, 2006 13:19:26 GMT
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my haynes recommends GTX
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1988 V8 Rangey Bobtail :: 1968 Volvo Amazon 133 Ratrod :: 1977 Land Rover 88 :: 1985 Opel Monza GSE :: 1983 MKII Fiesta
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Stu
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,913
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Feb 14, 2006 13:22:30 GMT
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They do, it's 'cos Haynes are sponsored by Castrol, Duckhams etc depending what age of manual you have and seem to only recommend those fluids. I was warned against GTX in VW's somewhere, can't remember where though now!
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'89 BMW E30 325i Sport, '04 MINI Cooper S, '09 Volvo V70 D5
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том
Posted a lot
"If in doubt, flat out!"
Posts: 2,707
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Feb 14, 2006 13:32:53 GMT
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they say coz GTX is self lubricating, its harder to do an oil change, and if ya use it once, you have to keep using it, you can't then switch back to another sort, allegedly.
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1988 V8 Rangey Bobtail :: 1968 Volvo Amazon 133 Ratrod :: 1977 Land Rover 88 :: 1985 Opel Monza GSE :: 1983 MKII Fiesta
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Feb 14, 2006 13:35:47 GMT
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errm, I'm agreeing with goafer boy here, either the silver quanta/quantum/quantax (cant remember either) or the blue stuff, according to the boys on the mk1 golf gti forum! I personally use the blue stuff and change every 5000 miles!
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Feb 14, 2006 13:38:39 GMT
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Halfords oil, the stuff in the red bottle, about £6.99 usually for 5 litres. Same API grade as Castrol GTX, same viscosity rating. Used that in loads of cars I've had which state a 20w50 as the required oil and works well. A variety of "fleet" oils are availabel form trade factors etc. whcih have good API. I use these in the yanks as they usually wan 10w40 or 10w30
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Feb 14, 2006 13:49:51 GMT
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Change the oil every 5-6k miles!! I'll be changing it every 4-5 months then The cam belt and tensioners were replaced at 60k, so I've got another 50k before they're due again. I've got a list of parts that come to £95 with GSF at the moment (only £10 less that what I paid for the car in the first place!) I think I'll change the gearbox oil anyway - it's a quick cheap job.....
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I like long walks, especially when they're taken by people I don't like.
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Mr K
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,993
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Feb 14, 2006 13:52:27 GMT
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it's a quick cheap job..... i think we have all said that at some point!
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Feb 14, 2006 13:56:33 GMT
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What about the coolant? That's easy to change and may be past it's best. Use VW G12+ for that, you'll need about two 1.5 litre bottles mixed with water, this helps stop corrosion in the alloy head as well as usual antifreeze properties. Do you know the GSF part number for this? The closest I can find is 98074 @ £4.50......
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Last Edit: Feb 14, 2006 13:57:29 GMT by iRocco
I like long walks, especially when they're taken by people I don't like.
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Feb 14, 2006 14:48:03 GMT
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any good 15w40 will do ,on the older vw's synthetic isnt always a good idea unless its been run on it before.
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Feb 14, 2006 15:31:39 GMT
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You want to think about he 3-4k changes that a decent but older turbo engine like a Saab recomends. Saab (real saab) always said 3k for turbos, even when it switched to rebadged Mobil 1 as "Saab turbo oil". Some owners using fully synth say 6k on full synth. I tend to do 4k now, with a filer every time, instead of 3k with a filter every second change as was the old Saab standard.
using Halford 5w40/Chevron 5w40 (cheap at Costco if you are a member) full synth and halfords filters is cheap enough on the Saab.
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Feb 14, 2006 15:49:12 GMT
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Turbos really muller the oil, during hot stops the temps round the bearings can get up to 450°C which causes the oil to carbonize inside the centre housing, these carbon deposits build up and play hell with the oil flow through the bearings and knacker the turbine end seals etc. If you’ve got a turbo you can’t really change it too often!
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1972 Fiat 130 1985 Talbot Alpine 1974 Lancia Beta Saloon 1975 + 1986 Mazda 929 Koop + Wagon 1982 Fiat Argenta 2.0 iniezione elettronica 1977 Toyota Carina TA14 BEST CAR EVER!!!!!!!! 1979 Datsun B310 Sunny 4-dr 1984 Audi 200 Quattro Turbo 1983 Honda Accord 1.6 DX GONE1989 Alfa 75 2.0 TS Mr T says: TREAT YO MOTHER RIGHT!
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Feb 14, 2006 19:30:56 GMT
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Personally I would use a mineral oil in something like that I wouldnt consider a synthetic or semi synthetic unless the engine was going to be getting revved higher than 6000 on a regular basis. Having said that I also change the oil in my cars at 6000 mile tops which is normally every three months. I don't really think you can change the oil to often in any car if you are planning on keeping it. My wife used to be a volunteer driver for the ambulance service using a peugeot 306 diesel, which was an ex police car that had 100,000 mile on it when we got it. She would do between 1000-2000 mile per week and I serviced that pretty much every month. When we sold it it had well over 200,000 mile on it, never used a drop of oil between oil changes, no smoke and when I took the rocker cover off it was spotless inside. Bstardchild posted some pics in a recent thread showing two engines with similar mileages one with regular oil changes and one without showing the difference between the two.
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Stu
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,913
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Feb 14, 2006 20:45:12 GMT
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What about the coolant? That's easy to change and may be past it's best. Use VW G12+ for that, you'll need about two 1.5 litre bottles mixed with water, this helps stop corrosion in the alloy head as well as usual antifreeze properties. Do you know the GSF part number for this? The closest I can find is 98074 @ £4.50...... Yeah, I think that is the right stuff as it says it's purple. To my knowledge they only stock that one type now and it mixes with either G11 or G12 which were the previous VW coolants and didn't mix together. As for the oil changes, I agree with the others - you can never change your oil too often. I would also go on the side of caution with cambelts and tensioners too, doesn't sound like it needs one now but I would tend to do then at about half the recommended interval to be on the safe side. All depends how much you like the car and how long you want it to last really, oil changes are a lot cheaper than valve stem seals, piston rings and definitely engine swaps!
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'89 BMW E30 325i Sport, '04 MINI Cooper S, '09 Volvo V70 D5
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Feb 14, 2006 21:43:42 GMT
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If it's high mileage think about 20/50 (it fills the wear gaps a bit better) and if it uses much oil then use cheap stuff and change it a bit more regularly. If you bung a turbo on it then use semi-synth etc etc..
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Feb 15, 2006 15:52:09 GMT
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I changed the oil/filter on my Saab 9000 turbo with Fully Synthetic (thought i was doing it good) - 5/30 and 1000 miles later it was smoking like a train - only on tickover and startup. I changed to a mineral oil for a short time to see if it would stop smoking, and after a motorway journey it did. I then changed to a quality semi synthetic 15/40 and it's fine now. Obviously the thin oil had just gone straight through the turbo. Discussing this with mates seemed to suggest that thin synthetics in older turbo cars isn't a good idea. However loads of folk on the Saab site swear by it. Vauxhall semi synthetic is well priced at the moment - under £10 for 5l.
Pete
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Feb 15, 2006 16:22:06 GMT
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Turbos really muller the oil, during hot stops the temps round the bearings can get up to 450°C which causes the oil to carbonize inside the centre housing, these carbon deposits build up and play hell with the oil flow through the bearings and knacker the turbine end seals etc. If you’ve got a turbo you can’t really change it too often! luckily full synths don't coke up. Saab even recomends 12k mile changes on the current cars. And except the V6 and the very last 4 pots, the 9-3 and 9-5 used derivatives of the original 4 pot turbo from the late 99/early900 turbos.
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