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Jan 28, 2014 20:01:25 GMT
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Mel, Madwelshman raised a very good point there with regards to different cars corroding in different ways. Some cars remain fairly solid despite being used in all weathers while others rot out everywhere, even from a young age, despite being looked after or 'protected'. I have personally found that this seems to be mostly to do with their build date. Early cars (S, T and some V reg) often survive quite well whereas it is notable that later ones ( some V, W and X or later) can often be found to be full of the early signs of pinhole perforation absolutely everywhere.....including on the roof panel. I did some research into this, and it seems that during the period of the steel strikes when the correct steel was in short supply, production carried on using alternatives that could either be a 'purer' steel or one of a different gauge. The 'purer' steels had less pig iron content, and although weight-for-weight it is a little stronger, the lack of pig iron or other content causes the finished material to be much more prone to corrosion. I must admit, most of the early Beams I've had, have been pretty good. Of course there's always the odd exception to that, but in general, I would recommend to anyone searching for a Sunbeam (or Avenger for that matter, as found pretty much the same thing there as well) that they try and find an earlier example. |
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1964 Saab 96 two Stroke
1971 Hillman Avenger 1500 GL (Tuned 1600 fitted)
1976 Saab 99 2dr EMS (Project of very slow progress)
1978 Saab 99 2dr EMS (Awaiting reshell)
1981 Saab 99 2dr Turbo (Awaiting reshell)
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hairymel
Club Retro Rides Member
avatar by volksangyl
Posts: 1,081
Club RR Member Number: 207
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Jan 28, 2014 20:41:53 GMT
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thanks hoody/turbeam jonsautos seem to produce a version of the cover sill produced in the past by saltofix and hadrians panels, as i used on 294. they do not include the part of the sill that goes under the bottom of the front wing/inside the bottom of the a pillar, or the top stepped section under the bottom door shut that joins back to the top of the inner sill/floorpan. the new cars sills are much worse than the last 'project' with the a pillar part non existent and the top steps badly repaired in the past and probably past saving! i do have a set of cover sills already but it would save a lot of work if i could get complete pair of oem style sills. expressed do full sills i believe but i would guess after vat and delivery i would see no change from £300. i think (haven't looked too hard  ) my cover sills are hadrian ones which are fairly flimsy and poorly pressed. the saltofix one i had previously used (after i mullered the first hadrian panel  ) was thicker and a better fit. my plan, if no source of reasonably priced Argentinian sill appears, is to buy a sheet of zintec and have a crash course in use of my works brake press and ,at worst, make better cover style sills and at best replicate the full step as well  my metal shaping needs a bit of work going by my repairs to the skoda pickup, so only time will tell  |
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whats that burning smell?
oh curse word :-(
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Jan 28, 2014 23:43:58 GMT
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 S.W.L. Sunbeam Will Live. I think the weight estimate there is a little enthusiastic though. It doesn't look.. err.. well, yes it kinda does. But it's only metal (that's not presently there) Certifiable. Excellent job. Carry on --Phil |
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Last Edit: Jan 28, 2014 23:44:25 GMT by PhilA
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I fully agree with your thinking Mel. Personally, there is no way I'd even consider paying anything like £300 for a pair of such relatively simple sills. With the exception of the top outside edge which is a small radius, the folds could easily be made in any sheet metal brake long enough. I've got a normal 'short' brake, but I'm seriously considering making a longer heavy duty one specifically for sills, rear panels etc. Even the small door opening edge radius could be reproduced with an alternative rounded edge on the brake.
I believe that the previous supplier of the Argentinian sills has now gone out of business, so in my view that only really leaves the DIY fabrication option.
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Just reading the first few pages on my mobile at the moment and wow what a project  I have a front panel for one of these which was found in an old panel company when clearing out, I may have to check to see if there are any sills there Serious respect for saving this, will Definately be worth all the effort when its complete |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Just reading the first few pages on my mobile at the moment and wow what a project I have a front panel for one of these which was found in an old panel company when clearing out, I may have to check to see if there are any sills there Serious respect for saving this, will Definately be worth all the effort when its complete You may need to go on a few more pages...... Pages 34 and 35 being the most notable I'm sure Mel will be interested in any panels |
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Just reading the first few pages on my mobile at the moment and wow what a project I have a front panel for one of these which was found in an old panel company when clearing out, I may have to check to see if there are any sills there Serious respect for saving this, will Definately be worth all the effort when its complete You may need to go on a few more pages...... I'm sure Mel will be interested in any panels Thanks, just had a look at the page count... crikey, I'll definately give this a read when I have a little more time. |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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You may need to go on a few more pages...... I'm sure Mel will be interested in any panels Thanks, just had a look at the page count... crikey, I'll definately give this a read when I have a little more time. Ha you will have missed my crafty edit - perhaps it's better you follow the story rather than jump forward - you will get the roller-coaster ride we all got |
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Feb 14, 2014 10:20:29 GMT
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Hi everyone!
My name is Oleksii.
Can you help to identify Sunbeam by chassis number?
R4DCD9L169449
R4DCT8L139605, and this is the info from corresponding service code plate: L8 223 139605 C1QH 668
Trim code A, Paint code PND
Any information from chassis plates and service code plates would be great!
Thank you in advance!
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hairymel
Club Retro Rides Member
avatar by volksangyl
Posts: 1,081
Club RR Member Number: 207
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hi oleksii - i will post your info on the club forum and see if anyone can give details  |
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whats that burning smell?
oh curse word :-(
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hairymel
Club Retro Rides Member
avatar by volksangyl
Posts: 1,081
Club RR Member Number: 207
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whats that burning smell?
oh curse word :-(
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djay
Part of things
Posts: 34
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Some dainty toe pointing there.
Dave.
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hairymel
Club Retro Rides Member
avatar by volksangyl
Posts: 1,081
Club RR Member Number: 207
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Some dainty toe pointing there. foot shown for scaling purposes only i am a ballerina during the week  breaking news - skoda has now got mot and a ps for my earlier post total time spent - 60 hours (mostly doing origami) total spend £1608 (£4 on a cheap chinese pwm power controller for the mig, circuit fully designed in my head but not tested in real life  ) |
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whats that burning smell?
oh curse word :-(
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drdick
Part of things
Posts: 359
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For me!? Thanks man, plus my Dad will be happy to have something to paint. Good to see some work on the Beam! |
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hairymel
Club Retro Rides Member
avatar by volksangyl
Posts: 1,081
Club RR Member Number: 207
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to share rich - don't be greedy :-)
hopefully i will get some primer on it this evening and maybe a topcoat if i have time
fathadick has plenty of mustang components to fettle in the offsite paint shop :-p
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whats that burning smell?
oh curse word :-(
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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total spend £1608 (£4 on a cheap chinese pwm power controller for the mig, circuit fully designed in my head but not tested in real life ) Bloody hell you didn't buy an Sip/cosmo again..... Thought you'd have learned my lesson.. Actually the Pwm works pretty well solving the lack of wire feed motor torque when the liner is knackered.... Or when you've replaced the original nasty torch with a euro one and it's twice the length and as a result resistersnce.... I do like a bit of hindsight... |
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hi oleksii - i will post your info on the club forum and see if anyone can give details Hi, thank you for your response! Can you tell the information from your Sunbeam's chassis plate and service code plate (except chassis number, of course)? |
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hairymel
Club Retro Rides Member
avatar by volksangyl
Posts: 1,081
Club RR Member Number: 207
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Bloody hell you didn't buy an Sip/cosmo again..... Bloody hell you didn't buy an Sip/cosmo again..... a lesson that is worth teaching twice  tbh i didn't twig that you had a cosmo and had foolishly assumed you had one of sip's problem children. it only became fully apparent to me that sip and cosmo were one and the same after purchase it does appear to be a bit better than my previous sip though, and with my budget being very limited i was happy to pay not far off the cost of the euro torch conversion parts for a complete converted welder  the reason for the pwm controller purchase was erratic wire feed problems - eventually much improved by running the wire in the right sized groove in the roller   Can you tell the information from your Sunbeam's chassis plate and service code plate (except chassis number, of course)? my bodyshell does not have the factory identification plates fitted anymore  although it still has the chassis number stamped on the inner wing. i posted your information to the asoc (avenger and sunbeam owners club) forum but the post was deleted and i was told not to ask for information to give to non-members - sorry  i will try to see if i can get any info elsewhere  |
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whats that burning smell?
oh curse word :-(
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hairymel
Club Retro Rides Member
avatar by volksangyl
Posts: 1,081
Club RR Member Number: 207
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whats that burning smell?
oh curse word :-(
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nowt wrong with forming stuff using a vice as an anvil, good work so far |
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) my cover sills are hadrian ones which are fairly flimsy and poorly pressed. the saltofix one i had previously used (after i mullered the first hadrian panel 
) was thicker and a better fit.
I have a front panel for one of these which was found in an old panel company when clearing out, I may have to check to see if there are any sills there
although it still has the chassis number stamped on the inner wing.
i will try to see if i can get any info elsewhere 
more practice needed i think - but it looks better than i expected 
