redgt2
Part of things
praise the lowered!
Posts: 863
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Dec 22, 2009 23:34:46 GMT
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Just picked this up. Got it by giving a charitable donation for it. The only info I can find is that New Hudson were snapped up by BSA who were then snapped up by Raleigh.Can't find anything relating to the New Hudson Gnat which this seems to be. It's exactly the same as the BSA Twenty by the look of it The Sturmey Archer is dated 1973 so i'm assuming it's the original wheel for the bike making the bike 36 years old..cool Plans for this one....? I don't like the handlebars but do like the bendy handlebar stem...but the former is pressed into the latter...hmmm think I may pick up a 20 inch wheel kids mtb with suspension forks and swap bits over and get rid of mud and chainguards. or keep as is but with a change of bars and pedals and get some bits to get the gears workin
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Last Edit: Dec 22, 2009 23:37:32 GMT by redgt2
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Dec 22, 2009 23:55:44 GMT
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I think you'll find that that's a badge engineered Raleigh 20 or Raleigh 22. I had one a while back around the same year but higher spec (dynamo hub, factory rear rack). It's not unusual for the manufacturer to badge engineer the bike for a specific market, probably for whatever area the Hudson bikes were originally sold.
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Remade In Australia thereimaginarium.com.au
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redgt2
Part of things
praise the lowered!
Posts: 863
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if it is raleigh engineered i will run about on it with option 2...and keep all the guards for riding in the rain
if it is bsa engineered then it should be BS so will prob go for option 1 route...modding it
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redgt2
Part of things
praise the lowered!
Posts: 863
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oh and this one came from Stan Morselys in Melton Mowbray according to the sticker....
no longer exists though
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Dec 23, 2009 17:38:02 GMT
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hey I had some New Hudson brass head badges, but I recently threw most of my bike stuff away. Ive seen that colour used on the Phillips badged 20s. Theres a man on the Folding bike section of Bike Forums thats got a Phillips. A few other 20 owners on there. looks like your Union dynamo needs to be more upright. Its supposed to be a straightline from wheel spindle through the dynamo unit. Ive got still got a lot of bike bits. Most of them for sale. Ive got new BMX front wheel with a 10mm I think axle. some sets of 20 x175, 3 speed alloys. 20" coaster brake alloys. Campag and Stronglight alloy cranks that have bigger than normal chainrings. Which are good for smaller wheels. Various long brake calipers. If you put 20 x 175 BMX/ MTB wheels on a 20X 1 3/8" Twenty, you need quite long brakes. There measured from the centre bolt that goes into frame to the side of the rim. BMX long brakes are marked around the 1000. Thats 100mm with a zero on the end. Ive got 890, 1000, 1020, 1080. Got loads more stuff. I'll have to get it all looked out and photographed so I can sell it. I'll look out my BSA 20s thread. BSA and my RSW are for sale now too.
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Dec 23, 2009 18:15:48 GMT
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Last Edit: Dec 23, 2009 19:29:32 GMT by alecw35
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redgt2
Part of things
praise the lowered!
Posts: 863
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thanks for the knowledgable input alec...the lights only flicker while riding so will upright the dynamo a pic of your bsa 20 has been in my pics for ages... i know the tyre sizes are odd on these bikes and i have quite a good set of whitewalls on this one which i like, and as i only live a mile from work i tend to jump on a bicycle and this one would save me from a wet ar5e in the rain with the guards on it..i also fancy some sturmey archer trigger action..but do i strip it down and add bmx bits on it like this one...(my fave pic so far) or bmx bits but leave it with guards and thread the SA into the alu wheel in this style.... as a commuter i may prefer to get an old racer with guards and lace the Sturmey Archer AW into a 27,28 inch or 700c back wheel if this is possible?.. alec, do bmx seat posts fit in to shoppers?..whereabouts are you located?
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redgt2
Part of things
praise the lowered!
Posts: 863
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if i could find some black mag wheels i think they would lend themselves to a shopper nicely... and the black looks good with gold like this modern burner shows... if i go bmx wheel i would be tempted to lock up the freewheel somehow to go fixed... or buy your coaster brake set up possibly....
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Dec 24, 2009 12:55:19 GMT
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I had loads of stuff that I threw away. I had 700c alloys that I got from ebay. They were wide rims probably meant for a Hybrid. They were on an AW hub, that had a wide (bent) axle in them. I rebuilt them, was looking for a wide axle, not too hard a look tho. I should have put a normal length axle in them. I had no particular bike to put them on. Maybe my Huffy Sportsman. Its got crummy welded steel rims on it. They squeal like crazy. I was gonna give it a Stars and stripes paint job. The second hand bike shop took it away. I had some mag wheels that went to the dump. some of them had riveted in steel hub flanges. I guess they could be modded to hold a drilled sprocket. You can screw a fixed cog, or a real old SA screw on cog to a normal threaded freewheel type hub. A bottom bracket lock ring can be used to hold it on. Or use it with out the lockring. Ive not done that. I don't recommend that. Apart from it maybe coming off. It would strain the sprocket holder to hub joint. The holder is sometimes just held onto the plastic wheel by the axle. And Ive seen them be very wobbly on old BMXs. I used to work at Halfords. A new bike came in for a check over. Its was a pink BMX, called RIP. Or as I called it...R. I. P. It had mags with bolted on steel hubs. I tried a tektro disc beside the 6 bolts. But the wheel had a smaller PCD than the disc. Ive seen people drilling cassette sprockets to fit on front disc hubs to use as a fixed gear bike. I got a 24" mtb disc wheel. I needed the cones for my Dawes Galaxys front wheel, was cheaper getting a wheel from ebay, than an axle. I fitted a solid axle to the 24" wheel and tried to fit a hyperglide cassette cog to it. It looks like only half covers the disc holes. So would not fit on the R.I.P. BMX. I left the uncompleted bike in my garden and the second hand bike shop took it. But left a few complete MTBs. Didnt understand that. :/ Halfords sell a couple of BMXs that have disc front brakes. The Apollo MX20.3 and the Snare. They have 14mm axles though. Much bigger than the around 10mm that regular bikes have. I should have tried to fit a thinner axle in a BMX wheel. But thrown out all my spare axles now
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Dec 24, 2009 13:54:55 GMT
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The seat pin diameter of the Twenty is 28.6mm. The seat clamp is 31.8mm diameter. These are common sizes for MTB seat pins, so cant be difficult to track one down. Though I was looking for a 450mm long, 28.6mm alloy micro adjuster seat pin for my City folding bike. Not tracked one down yet. BMX seat pins are a few different sizes. But the older common size is 22.2mm or 7/8" diameter. This was a common size on American bikes. Its the same as Handle bar diameter. In fact I fitted a Handlebar from a silver scooter to the huffy. was a bit of a tight fit though. The oversize BMX seat pin diameter is 25.4mm, 1". Thats a common MTB size too. As with all things on bikes. Some will be annoyingly a slightly different size. Theres shims available to fit thinner seat pins to bigger frames. A lot of the suspension seat pins come with shims to fit various bikes. Ive got a 27.2mm to 28.6mm shim. Ive got a nearly new black Kalloy 27.2 post, its 350mm. A Used silver Push 27.2 its 400mm long. Maybe enough for my folder bike, but don't want to use a shim in a bike that gets it pin adjusted on every ride. I don't know how good a 22 to 28 shim would grip. As it would be quite thick material it was made from. The 28.6mm is also the outside diameter of seat tubes on older bikes. You can see front gear mechs come in that size. I cut out a seat tube from an old roadster bike and welded it in my Grifter. Super T as I called it. As it was quite long wheelbase with the Raleigh Wildcat forks I had fitted. 42" compared to the Wildcat that I fitted shorter BMX forks to, 35". So the Grifter was as long as a super Tanker. ;D Wildcat was called Lucy. As I built it quickly and tried it, a lot of the parts were loose, including most of the spokes in the wire spoke wheels I put on it at first. Lucy also had an old seat tube forced in it. Then a regular seat pin in the top. Lucy got stolen 3 times. Once I had to walk home 10 miles in the dark. Wild cats are similar to Raleigh Vektars. They were wild motorbike looking things with big mudguards and electronics. The Mark 1 Vektars had 3 speed hubs in Raleigh mags. I think they only came in white though. There was black raleigh mags on some Vektars. But think they were only single speed ones, same as Burner ones. A man on the Grifter board on Ace board has a few restored Vektars. I had 2 Vektars in good condition. Got them for about £10 each locally. But sold them for twice that to a collector from up north. I didnt have the money to get them like new. I think Ive got photos of them. Have to scan them onto pc. The Mark 1 Raleigh Burners had 28.6MM seat posts too. I got a NOS fluted alloy one in its packet at a car boot sale for 50p. Its been sitting in my seat post box for 10 years till I put it on my blue RSW.
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Last Edit: Dec 24, 2009 14:08:53 GMT by alecw35
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redgt2
Part of things
praise the lowered!
Posts: 863
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Dec 24, 2009 23:47:43 GMT
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i see you are in der nar nar nar ner ner ner Angus..lol...miles n miles away from me
love the rsw.....don't think ive ever seen one of those..
I'm interested in bmx/alloy wheels with coaster brake...
pics would be good..then pm for a deal?
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redgt2
Part of things
praise the lowered!
Posts: 863
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Dec 25, 2009 11:38:37 GMT
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alec....the bmx wheels with 10mm axles..
if i fitted a set would i have to widen where the axles go into the forks slots and the frame slots..original axles look like 7 mm to me?
cheers and merry xmas on this xmas day...:-)
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Dec 25, 2009 12:50:51 GMT
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Merry Xmas. The front Sturmey Acher hub has cones that have flanges on them that go into the special keyhole shaped drop outs on the forks. Theres no locknuts as the forks are supposed to hold the cones still. Its a pain getting the wheel in or out. The axle diameter is 5/16" with a BSCY thread profile. It can be called 9mm though. And the width of the fork drop outs is less than the modern 100mm. Its usually called over lock nut width, but no lock nuts. :/ I have ground the flanges off SA front hub cones before, the ground cone spanner flats on the cone. And used locknuts on the axle. I did that to my Blue Falcon. It was a Falcon MTB that I fitted 1973 AG dyno hub 3 speed wheels too. I never took a photo of it showing the hubs very well. I abandoned it in town a year ago when I left my job. The keyhole shaped fork drop outs can be filed so they are just a slot. You can either cold set the forks so they are 100mm wide, or if its an older front wheel, about 90mm. Cold setting is the polite term for bending. I have put the fork steerer tube in a vice. Then measured the width. And taken it away from 100. I cant remember numbers. Say its originally 75mm. So its needs 25mm more. So bend one blade so its 87.5mm. Then bend the other to 100mm gap. Those numbers are a geuss. It would be bad to bend that far. The centre of the wheel has to be on the centre line of the bike. For good handling and for being able to set up the brakes. Mike Burrows, a cycle designer made some bikes that didnt have the wheels inline. They were tricky to ride. Will have to look for his Amsterdam bike. He designed the Speedy and Giant compact road bikes and the Lotus track bike. Having said that. Modern wheels ussually have very thick locknuts. So they can be replaced with narrower ones to get the overlocknut down to fit the forks. Cheaper bikes will ussually have 3/8" BSCY axles. These ussually have wheel nuts that take a 15mm spanner. It can be named 9.5mm though. Its common for Quick release hubs to use 10mm fine thread rear axles. Shimano use 10mm solid rear axles too, I guess its on lower priced hubs. I have a 3/8" die that Ive used on broken rear QR axles to make them into front axles. Trouble is they have a habit of breaking at about the 100mm length. And the axle should be a bit longer than that to fit in forks.
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Last Edit: Dec 25, 2009 13:09:01 GMT by alecw35
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redgt2
Part of things
praise the lowered!
Posts: 863
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Dec 31, 2009 17:23:12 GMT
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ok, so out of all of the Shoppers ive found whilst surfin' da net these are the two that do it for me so will bear these two in mind whilst creating my own but with a few different twists and turns...... mine already has a saddle bag and moustache bars added on to a modern stem....and ive made my mind up about which wheelset so will add photos when i have got the wheels done as they hopefully will be the ace in the hole ftw!!
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The blue fixie was posted on here a while ago and on single track world forum by a guy who is a member on here and there but I can't find that thread again.
Thats the one that inspired me to get one, not that it's got very far so yet.
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MX5 mk1 - now Turbo'd Austin A35 van Suzuki SJ 16v
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I fitted some wheels to my Raleigh Twenty. The alloys that I got from scrapped Polish shopper bikes. Ive got 2 0r 3 pairs of them. They have the 5/16" axle in the correct width to fit right in the forks. Though the tyres a bit close to the blades. Rear wheels a SA 3 speed so fits into the drop outs ok. They need polished up though. Ive polished the ones on my City folder. They look nice. But it takes ages sanding them to a nice finish. I did try my NOS BMX 48 spoke front wheel. The axles too wide and thick to fit in the unmodded forks, and the cones arent all that thick, so couldnt really replace them with thinner ones. I tried my 36 spoke LCC chinese coaster wheel in the rear of the Twenty. Wouldnt go in. 3 speeds axles are about 8mm thick. Where as regular axles are a little bit thicker than that. Some old bikes had flattened axles in regular hubs. I think thats to fit into drop outs that were made to fit 3 speed bikes. As factories would use the same frame parts on several different bike models. Seems a silly idea. Ive seen flattened axles in racers. They need all the strength in there axles. As there prone to bend and break there axles. I fitted flattened axles to the Raleigh mags that I tried on my blue RSW. I don't know if you can get those axles new anymore. But lots of rusty old bikes have them.
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redgt2
Part of things
praise the lowered!
Posts: 863
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yep Alec...your brown 20 is added to the list of 2 to make 3 :-) cos that is the exact look I'm after.... i like that brown colour as well...my modern specialized tri cross has a nice brown as its main colour...i think i must like brown bikes...lol my aim is to get hold of 36 spoke bmx wheels and have a guy at the bike shop respoke the rear one on to the SA...this will need reshelling tho' as it's a 28 shell at the mo, not a 36....my prerequisite for the bike is wider alloy wheels with SA.. mag wheels i like but really want the trigger on the bars for some sturmey archer action so cant do mags I'm sure modern 10mm axle bmx wheels fit with just minimal filing of slots.....let me know if you want to sell a set of Polish alloys tho...no worries if not....;-) yep Bobby i got that pic off here....think it looks great..my preference wouldnt be for a foldy as i prefer the frame type i have but for me what Alec and the other two guys have done i don't think can beat beaten for a shopper...think it's called ...>stance<... on the other board..lol check out www.bikecult.com if you havent already and check the archives...lots of nice builds of all types of bikes including shoppers by some new york bike shop chaps
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Yes the modern axles will fit into Raleigh forks if you file the slots to the same width all along them. I had a typo when writing about them. I put cones...when I meant locknuts. The locknuts are about 4mm thick. Some wheels have thinner ones, some are thicker. And as long as there the same thread, you can change thickness to suit your forks drop out width. Thats for cup and cone hubs. i don't think you'll easily find BMX wheels with sealed cartridge bearings. They don't have regular lock nuts. So your stuck with the width they are.
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redgt2
Part of things
praise the lowered!
Posts: 863
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here is how it looks at the mo... needs a longer mtb stem as at my ride height it only has an inch left in frame, a gear cable and some fatter alloys to replace steels
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I was gonna suggest the SR stumpneck stem. Or the Kalloy one. Ive got 3 of them. My Kalloy is nos in a packet. But thats what you got. I have a box of about 20 road stems. But there all got short quills. Got a few BMX stems too, but they wont fit. I have a riser tube on my BSA Twenty. It like a stem that don't have the tube forwards to the bars. Then I have a MTB stem inside it. I got it on a ladies MTB. I took it off and sold the MTB. I have seen them on Ebay. I just looked and theres a 25.4mm one. Thats too thick to fit in the forks. Has to be 22.2mm. Stems often say the size beside the limit line, or on the base of the expander wedge. I'm wanting to sell my BSA Twenty as a complete bike. don't really want to part it out. I have heard of people extending stems. They get a couple of stems and cut the quill tube from one. then put a sleeve tube over the top of it and slide it onto the quill of the other stem. And weld round the joins. Might be good to drill and pin it too. Ive had an idea of getting a steel tube stem with a quill diameter of 25.4mm. Then get a BMX 22.2mm seat post and a BMX 25.4mm seat clamp. Cut the quill to 90 degrees. Cut a slot in it like on the seat tube of a frame. Then put the seat clamp on the end, and the seat post in the quill tube. Ive got a couple of steel 25.4mm stems, a chunky BMX seat clamp and a BMX seat pin. So could do the experiment. But like the welded stem. I'm not sure of the SAFETY of it.
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