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so the mk1 fez has been strugling and misfiring i blame it on the contacts phone a garage oh yes ill sort it well i give up waiting so buy a new set of contacts and a new condenser
change the contacts over and it wont start at all :cry: read both mk1 and mk2 festa manuals but they don't give much of a discription, any ideas at all people.......1.1 and its a bosch dizzy
if not i have to get tempory insurance on the jeep to get to college tomorro with the added cost of 9mpg......so i kinda need my fiesta running hmmmmm bike or tractor.....[/
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once again rocking with 1117cc and 4 gears!
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том
Posted a lot
"If in doubt, flat out!"
Posts: 2,707
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what are ya points like?
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1988 V8 Rangey Bobtail :: 1968 Volvo Amazon 133 Ratrod :: 1977 Land Rover 88 :: 1985 Opel Monza GSE :: 1983 MKII Fiesta
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aint got the dizzy on 180 degrees out have you?
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did you wipe the points face with a soft cloth/similar before fitment? might be worth a try but don't use any abrasive. mk1 gap is 18 thou with a bosch dizzy if thats any more help
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ok points brand new ill give them a wipe, damp cloth with oil or water? what gap havent had it out
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Last Edit: Jan 2, 2006 14:04:22 GMT by samyboy
once again rocking with 1117cc and 4 gears!
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nope deff not i allways leave all the leads on and set out neatly so tht cant happen and the grooving on the cap wouldnt allow it its the gap i gotta turn the engine and check I'm getting the right gap if any bloody things i do like old cars but i wouldnt say no to electronic ignition
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once again rocking with 1117cc and 4 gears!
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You cleaned the erm, insulating gunk that they sometimes have on the points off when new? Wired the condensor up correctly? Just take it apart, and work through it methodically and you'll find teh problem
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this may be your problem. take the cap off, put the car int 1st or 2nd and let the handbrake off. take the rotor arm of so you can see the shaft it mounts to. this wil be kinda square with rounded edges. pull the car slowly forwards by hand until the points are on one of the rounded edges. this is where your gap should be . slacken the screw that holds the points to the base plate of the dizzy (but don't remove it). using some feeler guages set the gap to 18thou like bodieanddoyle suggests. with your feelers in between the contacts tighten the screw. if all has gone to plan put the rotor arm and cap back on. et voila, your car should start. hth.
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Nathan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,649
Club RR Member Number: 1
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HELP please (dizzy trouble)Nathan
@bgtmidget7476
Club Retro Rides Member 1
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Food for thought for the future mate and that is the Optronic ignition simple fitment, you cant get it wrong and no more messing about with points
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Sounds daft.. but the rotor arm's not still sitting on the battery/inner wing/air cleaner is it? ...I've done it myself a few times...
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... the only injury I sustained was a bumped head when I let the seatbelt of without realizing the car was upside down and that's not really the car's fault.
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shes sorted, i spent £9summin on new contact breaker set and a new condensor and finished off using bits off my other mk1, while i was at it i used the other rotor arm as it looked in better condition and the 8mm HT leads in the end i worked out what the whole gaping system was, bloody haynes just don't describe things thoughrly enough for begginers :roll: oh i also put the drilled airbox on while the other was off took it for a spin get half way down the village and open it up......fooooooooooooooooooook me (maybe its time to change the rear brake shoes) (hahaha and yes sevral times id put it back together only to find the rotar arm sitting to one side) thanks for your help guy's much apreciated 8)
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once again rocking with 1117cc and 4 gears!
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