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Apologies if this is a repost: Lithuanians making new shapes for cars from poluurethane foam. englishrussia.com/?p=1949Interesting technique but that grille makes me want to barf.
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"Jeremy Clarkson, a man we motor enthusiasts need on our side like Lewis Hamilton's F1 car needs a towing ball and a Sprite Musketeer" My motor
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Foam sculptingDeleted
@Deleted
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Yeah - it was on here a little while back.
All that effort to make something that looks that awful! Bet it's nice and cosy in there though, what with all that expanded foam!
Joe
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Stiff
Posted a lot
'kin 'ell
Posts: 3,013
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Yeah it's been on a couple of times now but worth another look. It's not my cup of tea and agree about the grille but the guy's got some real talent (taste is debatable). Take the interior for instance. To go from this: And acheive this: Would not be an easy task by any means. Every single person on here would have had a different idea of how they would have restyled the original Merc but the guy's had a vision of what he wanted and went out an done it. Kudos to him. I've seen a much worse by profesional tuning comanies.
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I didn't see it the first time round so is interesting. I agree..... the exterior styling effect gives the impression that it's Mercedes Benz's first attempt at a kit car! Interior foam looks good.... lots of attention to detail and no need for airbags!! Only thing I've found this spray can foam useful for is filling box sections. On the arrocuda project I ended up with enclosed cavities front and rear so I filled them up with it to prevent long term water ingress from rusting the car from the inside out. I also used it to fill the cavity where the lower front wings meet the doors which is a design fault on the original car. Sprayed old engine oil in first to make sure the metal was well protected... left it for a few hours to drain off the excess then sprayed the foam in till it oozed out of all the orifices. Spent 1/2 an hour waiting for it to continue expanding whilst wiping the excess off then undersealed over the top. The new boot lid will form a cavity with the original one so will get the same treatment. Useful stuff!!
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'71 Arrocuda.... '71 Sunbeam Rapier Turbo (The Grim Rapier).... '63 Hymek D7076..... Audi GT5S
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Now that's talent, like it or not that guy's a genius AND if you ever crash into a pond it wont sink !!!
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R.I.P photobucket
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Now that's talent, like it or not that guy's a genius AND if you ever crash into a pond it wont sink !!! Agreed, the work and the result is fantastic. Just the grille that's barf-tastic
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"Jeremy Clarkson, a man we motor enthusiasts need on our side like Lewis Hamilton's F1 car needs a towing ball and a Sprite Musketeer" My motor
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I didn't see it the first time round so is interesting. I agree..... the exterior styling effect gives the impression that it's Mercedes Benz's first attempt at a kit car! Interior foam looks good.... lots of attention to detail and no need for airbags!! Only thing I've found this spray can foam useful for is filling box sections. On the arrocuda project I ended up with enclosed cavities front and rear so I filled them up with it to prevent long term water ingress from rusting the car from the inside out. I also used it to fill the cavity where the lower front wings meet the doors which is a design fault on the original car. Sprayed old engine oil in first to make sure the metal was well protected... left it for a few hours to drain off the excess then sprayed the foam in till it oozed out of all the orifices. Spent 1/2 an hour waiting for it to continue expanding whilst wiping the excess off then undersealed over the top. The new boot lid will form a cavity with the original one so will get the same treatment. Useful stuff!! A little warning. VW beetles never used to rust bad in the c pillars, untill the 70's, when they started filling the cavities with expanding foam, then they started rotting madly. It wont stop water ingress, it will hold any water in there. Hopefully the oil you added will help but make sure no water AT ALL can get to the foam otherwise its a rotathon waiting to happen.
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93fxdl
Posted a lot
Enter your message here...
Posts: 2,003
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another little warning as it expands the foam can generate massive amounts of pressure so if trapped inside a section it can easily buckle the steel and bend the car i have seen a house that had split when new windows were fitted in place with foam ttfn glenn
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another little warning as it expands the foam can generate massive amounts of pressure so if trapped inside a section it can easily buckle the steel and bend the car I have seen a house that had split when new windows were fitted in place with foam ttfn glenn I built some speaker stands a while back. Proper overkill. 18mm MDF glued and screwed, only about 1 cubic foot of volume. They were mega strong, could have stood a house on them. I drilled a hole in the top then filled them with expanding foam. After i thought it had stopped i plugged the hole with a T nut and bolt. Bout 10 mins later there was a bang and it had ripped open from the pressure! Its capable of casuing alot of damage. Personaly, i wouldnt put it anywhere near any car i own.
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Honestly, I give that man 110% respect for his effort, it looks no worse than a kit car from outside, and the inside looks like quite a nice place to be. Slight mistake with the grill I think, but it certainly looks unique. Unfortunatly, I cant stop thinking 'chopshop'............
A Maxi I had afew years ago had the sills filles up with the stuff to aid sound proofing, and rust proofing. I don't know about the sound proofing bit as I never got to drive it, the sills had rotted out worse than Ive ever seen due to the water retention caused by the foam! Good job the foam was in there really as it was the only thing holding the car together.....
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Last Edit: Dec 3, 2009 18:13:17 GMT by bmcnut
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Obviously.... you cant seal it up till the foam has completely expanded and set hard. hence... as I said you have to stay with it and keep wiping it away till it sets. If water has got in then you haven't completely filled the cavity so always start at the furthest point and withdraw the tube as the foam expands. The foam isn't porous once set into a solid block so is like any other process in that it needs to be done carefully not just shot in randomly and walk away. The oil is held in against the metal and cannot evaporate cos the foam is also airtight once set. Another useful thing I use it for is to shoot it into the forward top corners of the front wings to prevent the usual rust worm taking advantage of the mud and dirt that gets thrown up there by the wheels and then holds the moisture against the metal. But again the job is only as good as the prepping and the surfaces must be clean dry and painted before you do it cos it will trap any moisture in if you don't make sure you've got it out first. Undersealing after it sets is a good way of making sure that any tiny holes you may have missed are permanently bunged.
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'71 Arrocuda.... '71 Sunbeam Rapier Turbo (The Grim Rapier).... '63 Hymek D7076..... Audi GT5S
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Check out the vehicle builds on fiberglassforums.com www.fiberglassforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=12Again lots of talent but not so much good taste. Typically once the foam has been fiberglassed over it is removed eliminating the rust problems. from this to this all the way to this
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3rd pic in that last lot has a stack of potential as an evo-style face, shame he ended up going down the skyline route.
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Remade In Australia thereimaginarium.com.au
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I'm not going to argue one way or another about the foam rust-proofing of cavities, but just pray to God that you never have to do any welding on the areas you have filled in the future - its mega-flammable and you will have to open up the cavity and chip out all the foam before welding.
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1986 Panda 4x4. 1990 Metro Sport. 1999 Ford Escort estate.
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The foam can be dissolved using certain industrial ketones. These are chemicals used in industry to produce such things as epoxy resins for example. You would need protective gloves and a face mask as they are solvents that have associated health risks but technically you should always take these precautions when handling and using all solvents. Ask me again in another 20 years and I'll be able to tell you whether was successful or not.
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Last Edit: Dec 4, 2009 8:22:04 GMT by arrocuda
'71 Arrocuda.... '71 Sunbeam Rapier Turbo (The Grim Rapier).... '63 Hymek D7076..... Audi GT5S
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Another thing that needs clarifying I think is that I am talking about cavities of maybe 4 - 5 sq inches max'. If you look at ditchdiggers pic of the blue Calibra you can see many air pockets on the surface..... so you can be certain there will be just as many, if not more below the surface. Filling an area the size of a toothpaste tube completely is one thing..... but doing the whole front of a car so as to be both air and water tight with the stuff is nigh on impossible.
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'71 Arrocuda.... '71 Sunbeam Rapier Turbo (The Grim Rapier).... '63 Hymek D7076..... Audi GT5S
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That's crazy. The thing looks nasty as hell but again that's a matter of opinion. I give him immense kudos for having the gonads to go chop up an expensive merc!!! It's the comments on that page that make me laugh haha. "Since Russia is still a developing country, they probably don’t have too many safety standards". WTF! Besides it's not even Russia lol. Some people
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Last Edit: Dec 9, 2009 18:08:10 GMT by lolface
78 Kadett C 2.0 8 valve turbo, holset, rust&other stuff..
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Dec 12, 2009 12:16:18 GMT
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What I'm not getting is why they don't create a panel, then use the foam as a fibreglass mold, and they produce fibreglass panels that can be bolted on instead.
Skillful though - seen it about 6 times preveiously though! Apart from the Calibra, I reckon that's pretty good!
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The journey of 1000 miles starts with a single coffee.
I don't like coffee!
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Dec 12, 2009 13:49:02 GMT
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Everey (and i do mean every) car ive worked on that has had the stuff in cavitys has rotted worse than without, ford used it in ghias to help sound proofing and it just makes em rot worse than those without, ive scrapped rally cars that used it in chassis rails, flitch panels, sills ect ect to aid structural rigidity and they rotted to hell in a few years BUT as you say its mostly down to the prep or lack of but having had so mutch experiance with the stuff including a camper i built that rotted out in those areas in 3 years (and i waxoiled the cavitys first) i would not personly use it. Flamable? hell yes, lost a chevette years ago cos of foam in B piller weld, weld, poof "hallo 999"
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R.I.P photobucket
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Hitch
Part of things
Posts: 427
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Dec 12, 2009 14:34:50 GMT
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Them wheels are just ridiculous!
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