Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Last update today. I drained and removed the tank. The gas in it smelt like varnish! Anyway, that's a step I'm very happy with as I feel pretty good about using my power tools and welder on the car now without fear of burning my house down.
With the tank out that leaves a pretty good hole in the trunk floor. When the time comes I'll buy a racing tank and build a frame for it to sit in that hole and fill the surround with aluminum sheet. Who knows, might even be able to use the standard gas filler location.
-Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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I had a bit of a poke at the lower wing that had the nasty filler repair. I gouged out some filler and now have a better idea of what I'm going to have to learn to repair. Never done any metalwork repair before so this is going to be a challenge. I put a piece of paper behind the second one so you could see it's rusted all the way through. This shot shows why it's rotten. There are two thicknesses of panel, probably to give some rigidity but they're not well sealed, actually there's no sealant at all on the car, and dirt has gotten between the panels and rusted out both ways: I started the peel the folded edge back using screwdrivers and vise grips hoping to separate the two panels so I can make two patch panels and weld them in separately. I stopped when I got close to the narrow flange part as I don't want to make the mess even worse. I think the two panels are spot welded between the two lower bolt holes: At this point I stopped because it's late and I wanted to dig out a power sander to clear out the remains of the filler and also to expose any spot welds so I can cut it out. More tomorrow when I'm not in danger of peeing off the neighbours. Here's a pic of the tools I'm using: And another of a set of body hammers and dolly's I've had for a while and have been looking for an excuse to use: -Steve
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Last Edit: Nov 30, 2009 6:39:47 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Nov 30, 2009 17:09:22 GMT
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hey fella, got the e30 beam measured up: the distance between outside of discs - 135cm (ish +/- 3mm), depth of disc - 54mm (ish +/- 3mm) so about 146cm total carfolio says 141.5cm - which is a lieee I tell you. PS - I hope that's the worst rust you find, doesn't look too bad PS2 - slotmags FTW!! PS3 - what are them things on the springs? Never seen such bizzareness in the uk! PS4 - toyota measures things in inches? WTF!
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Last Edit: Nov 30, 2009 17:11:59 GMT by lolface
78 Kadett C 2.0 8 valve turbo, holset, rust&other stuff..
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Nov 30, 2009 18:36:01 GMT
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Thanks for the measurements! If the Miata rear doesn't work out I can steal the idea from you and drill the hubs for the right PCD. I'm sure the BMW rear end would be easier to mount than the Miata subframe as the Celica has control arms that mount in a pretty similar spot, but the subframe just bolts in and one can drop out the suspension and differential in about 30 mins. PS1: Yeh, I found two spots only. That and the front edge of the bonnet. There are some pound coin sized holes in the floor and I will have to fill some holes in the front bulkhead. The wings and doors have some dings and waves so I am tempted to buy a stud welder and slide hammer to help me straighten it. A thin skim of filler will also help smooth it out too. PS2: I hate them, wish I could give them to you! Too 1970's for me ... PS3: They're a cheap ass modification to lower the car, they compress two coils together. Should be illegal IMO, but some of the ricer boys use them. Did you see the natty side exit exhaust in previous pics? It was, basically, a piece of flex pipe welded to a cherry bomb and held up with a section of coat hanger and a bracket bolted through the floor pan. I'm surprised this car is as straight as it is with having lived through that sort of abuse. PS4: Most Toyota stuff is in metric, but they do have some 'standard' stuff in imperial. All the bolts and such are metric anyway. Feels like I could dismantle the car with 4-5 sockets. -Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Nov 30, 2009 19:08:18 GMT
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Good progress and a good day it seems Steve.
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Nov 30, 2009 20:08:53 GMT
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Ooo,fast work!
10,12,14,17 and 19mm is about all you need to take them apart!
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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With help from my friend, Russ, (to help me not be such a sissy) we removed the rear window. This is the one I was most worried about as I haven't been able to find a replacement. There are replacements available for the front and the side windows are flat so can be made. Anyway, we cut around the seal between the stainless trim and the class until the knife bottomed out on the car body. Then we pulled as much of the seal out as we could and pulled the trim off the clips. While Russ pushed from the inside I was outside cutting and slicing as necessary until the glass just came out. No breakages and no bent trim. Result! I have replacement seals for the front, rear, side and boot lid on order. The front window is broken already. Later tonight I will take it out also and have a go at removing the side windows and wind-up mechanisms. The glass and trim will be wrapped in foam and cardboard and slid up under my bed until it'll be needed again in a few years ... ;D Tomorrow Jason is rolling by with my engine crane and, hopefully, he'll stick around to point and grunt while I remove the motor and transmission. Tonight I'll also try and finish off disconnecting them from everything else so taking it out should be easier. I'll take a ton of pics of that too. 'otep', also cleverly spelled 'OT3P', BTW, is some curse word heavy metal band from LA. Hopefully the junk on the window doesn't take too much elbow grease to clean off. -Steve
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Last Edit: Dec 1, 2009 2:04:36 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Morning Steve, not sure if I am right or not, but be watchfull of old glass laid out flat for an extended period. (Not sure if I am remembering right) maybe a bit of rolled up cardboard under it to support the bits that are off the ground is an extra belt/braces.
Ignore me if I am talking poop.
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Thanks for that. Dunno if it's true, but I thought the same thing myself, you see the scrunched up towel under it supporting the middle? That's just temporary until I wrap it permanently and then I'll do something to support it properly. I notice that windscreen replacement places always seem to store them standing up. I wonder if that's just for space or because it's the right thing? I didn't take any pics, but I removed the front window the same way as the back. it was somewhat easier because it was already broken. I removed the worry about it collapsing in the middle by squashing it flat and chucking it in the back of my truck ready for sneaking into a local dumpster. I hope by this 2 weekends from now to be able to start mocking up the suspension in the front and the motor and gearbox. Maybe the back too. I am looking forward to that, which is why I want to get the car as stripped as I can before I lose interest. I feel like I'm making terrific progress and my mojo will stay high while I see myself making some strides. I have made one mistake, and that was to try and remove the winding mechanism and window from the drivers side door. I think it's like a Chinese puzzle and, apparently, more than I can handle. In hindsight, I have no reason to take it out anyway, I can mask off the windows and the inside of the doors when it's being sanded and painted. Oh well! This coming weekend I'm running one of Miata Dave's cars in an autocross school on Saturday and then an actual event on Sunday. An autocross is a timed run type event around a course laid out with cones in a parking lot (or similar). Time is lost for knocking down cones. I think it's like a cross between a sprint and an autotest, but without the dancing cars ... -Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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MattW
Part of things
Posts: 841
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Sweet, another US member!
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I stored my screens upright too because i heard the same thing.....i'm sure it was on here somewhere.
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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This update is more for getting my thoughts down than for anyone to really be interested.
The engine hoist made it home. Time to boogie! My mate has a 1948 Chevy half ton pickup with a 216ci straight six 'stovebolt' engine that had a couple broken piston rings. The jammy beggar lucked into a 1953 261ci straight six and he just got done bolting it in. A couple more weeks and it'll be running again.
I need a few clear hours (I'll doss off work tomorrow afternoon and work late on it) to get the drive shaft out, the slam panel cross bar removed temporarily, remove a pile of accessories off the motor, unbolt it and the transmission and slide it forward and out. This will enable me to get the car up off the floor and onto axle stands so I can see enough to start the real work. I'll try to sell the motor and transmission locally but I'll junk it if not. No room to keep it around for an extended period.
This weekend I'll have a Miata in my driveway so I can take some photos and measurements of the cross member and sub frame heights from the ground and get a sense for how they're mounted. This will, I figger, give me a starting point of where and how I want it in the Celica. I also plan to extend and mark (with a punch or a cut off wheel) the Celica front and rear hub centerlines onto the Celica frame before removing all the suspension, steering and related brackets.
With all this information and a good hub/axle reference to work from it should be a matter of positioning the cross member and sub frame in the right space relative to the Celica body and see what needs to be cut or welded and what brackets &/or spacers I need to make or even how the cross member will need to be cut up to fit.
I took some measurements of the Miata engine and gearbox. Engine width and length look like there's lots of room, but the height looks like it'll be a squeeze. This means the height of the cross member will be critical to getting the motor under the bonnet without having to add in a bulge or some stupid hole. I'll weld on a bulge, though, if I have to but I'd rather keep the factory lines. This might mean cutting up the cross member, but as long as I keep the control arms in the same place relative to each other and each side and steering rack mounting relationships as they are the suspension and steering geometry shouldn't be ruinned.
The shifter is about 4" too far back, based on my measurements, so I will probably have to do the shifter relocation hack to the shifter housing and the shift rod which moves the shifter about 4" forward so that should end up perfect. No big deal there.
Miata Dave has a basket case Miata body that he said I can cut out what I want. I'll cut out the strut towers, front and rear, definitely the transmission tunnel and as much of the floor and firewall I can get. Maybe even cut out the parts where the sub frame and cross member mount. Might as well if what's left is going to China to make baked bean cans or nano-bots.
I'll add photos of the motor removal and photos and measurements of the Miata stuff when I have them. Hopefully, this will start making sense soon.
-Steve
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Last Edit: Dec 2, 2009 4:32:51 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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This coming weekend I'm running one of Miata Dave's cars in an autocross school on Saturday and then an actual event on Sunday. An autocross is a timed run type event around a course laid out with cones in a parking lot (or similar). Time is lost for knocking down cones. I think it's like a cross between a sprint and an autotest, but without the dancing cars ... -Steve Just about the most fun and bang-for-the-buck you can have over here without risking your license, short of road racing. AND, a lot cheaper too! I thought I had my '92 sorted out, but it developed a rear main seal leak just today, so Steve and I put the "good" wheels and tires (Bridgestone RE-11s, 15") on the '94 M and call it good. That works out fine with me, as I have wanted to autocross that car as it is, not the greatest suspension setup, but darned fun on the street; let's see how she does around the cones! Back to projects next week...
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The bloke from across the pond...
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Here's a pic of the car David loaned me: I'm on strict instructions not to get any tickets or to wear out the tyres ... ;D -Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Can't believe I've missed this awesome project! I wish I still had some parts left, I sold hundreds of bits of NOS TA22 parts the last couple of years, all gone since about May
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Keep watching, mate! It'll either be a totally awesome project or a complete bust ... have to see how I do grafting on the Miata suspension and drive train. I hope to get a good run at it this week after a few days of distraction.
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Been sick this week ... the freaking cold season is here! Had a go at removing the motor and transmission tonight but got halted due to not having a Pitman/steering arm remover. This car has a steering box and drag links and the drag link runs right under the motor between it and the transmission so it kept hanging up as I was trying to pull it. Tomorrow I'll get a Pitman arm puller and get it done. I pulled the slam panel brace, the exhaust and intake and the alternator to give me more room to slide it all forward through the gap between the headlights. I also removed the exhaust and intake because the motor didn't have any lifting eyes fitted so I had to use one of the exhaust manifold holes in the head. Here's a few pics and I'll add more tomorrow when it's all out. The removed parts. Drive shaft, intake and exhaust, alternator and other shrapnel: Suspended on the hoist: Almost! -Steve
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Last Edit: Dec 9, 2009 4:28:38 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Just had a few thoughts for later ... I hope I read back from time to time. Going to Linex the whole underside when it's done to protect it from stone chips and rust. Might coat the inside of the engine bay and the inside floor with it also. I have it in the bed of my truck and it seems almost impervious to fuel, antifreeze, brake fluid, etc. and it has some inherent sound deadening properties It can be got in pretty cool colours too. www.linex.com/I will save the Toyota transmission cross member and see if it can be modified to be used with the Mazda transmission. The transmission mount bolts to the cross member so no reason, if the mount locations on the Mazda transmission are in the ballpark, I couldn't fab up a mount to bolt to the cross member. This will save me drilling into the body or welding something up and I know it'll mount to the correct place on the Toyota body. I'll also keep the drive shaft because it has a centre bearing (I also have one for a Toyota AE86) and I'd like to have a centre bearing for the Mazda transmission too and maybe I can mod the Mazda driveshaft center bearing to use the Toyota mount. -Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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The Doctor
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,441
Club RR Member Number: 48
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nice work! But strange you can't lift the engine out without removing the steering, i never had problems with that (but then: i never lifted a truck engine out of a Celica ). Dutch ST's came with 2T engines, and they are easy to remove
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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It'll be out today I'm betting. Harder to get out with just one person so it might come out without dropping the steering. I'll take a pic before I pull it. Just off now to get the puller.
I have a question for someone with knowledge about door hinges. The doors drop when opened, more on the drivers side, obviously. I have assumed the pins running through the hinges will wear and need replacing. The ones on mine are peened over on one end so I would have to cut them or something to get them out.
Are these a standard item on many cars? Any ideas how to cut out the pins? Anyone know what kind of material they're made from in case I have to make some replacements?
Any other tips on fixing the hinges? I assume it's pretty common for old bangers.
-Steve
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Last Edit: Dec 9, 2009 14:51:39 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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