Kris
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,631
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Dec 13, 2005 16:34:47 GMT
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I'm going to have a bit of time on my hands over Christmas and need to sort out all my stuff in my parents garage. I have a spare Mini shell sitting there so I've decided to build an autotest Mini (the autotest Nova I posted in the eBay thread has got me thinking : I'm still a member of the University motor club and they run events every couple of months and it would be pretty cool to have something purpose built with a small budget but that I could use and gradually re-engineer and refine over time. I have most of the major assemblies (shell/subframes/steering rack and column etc) so parts isn`t a problem. The shell I have needs a bit of bodywork, I'd probably remove the roof as something fell on it and crumpled the skin, strengthen the floor and fit a roll hoop instead. I'd also fit the standard subframes for now and convert the back end to a beam axle in time. Does anybody have any info on building an autotest special? I've done a few Google searches but haven`t come up with much. I had a look in the MSA blue book for some information and basically pretty much anything goes with regards to building one, it mainly covers test layout and running one. Pictures would be much appreciated too
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Last Edit: Dec 13, 2005 16:35:18 GMT by Kris
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Dec 13, 2005 17:01:17 GMT
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I'd take 12" out of the wheelbase to start with There's a great book about race car suspension design (can't remember who it's by :/) which I'd advise getting and building the suspension from scratch. *n
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Top grammar tips! Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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Dec 13, 2005 18:53:47 GMT
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Paul Swift (Russ the stunt drivers son) runs a mini special, watched him at the historic motorsport show spining round the small track they'd set up www.paulswiftmotorsport.com/Autotesting/Pages/Gallery.html have a look lower down the page, lots of pics from the building process Good luck with the project
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Dec 13, 2005 19:04:59 GMT
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pheonixC is the lad u need to talk to about autotesting, hes a bit of a whizz
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"quote hairnet"
I'm not paying nine pound for a pi$$!
[/quote]
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Dec 13, 2005 19:10:35 GMT
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I'm going to have a bit of time on my hands over Christmas and need to sort out all my stuff in my parents garage. I have a spare Mini shell sitting there so I've decided to build an autotest Mini (the autotest Nova I posted in the eBay thread has got me thinking : I'm still a member of the University motor club and they run events every couple of months and it would be pretty cool to have something purpose built with a small budget but that I could use and gradually re-engineer and refine over time. I have most of the major assemblies (shell/subframes/steering rack and column etc) so parts isn`t a problem. The shell I have needs a bit of bodywork, I'd probably remove the roof as something fell on it and crumpled the skin, strengthen the floor and fit a roll hoop instead. I'd also fit the standard subframes for now and convert the back end to a beam axle in time. Does anybody have any info on building an autotest special? I've done a few Google searches but haven`t come up with much. I had a look in the MSA blue book for some information and basically pretty much anything goes with regards to building one, it mainly covers test layout and running one. Pictures would be much appreciated too Two main routes to go for with an autotest mini first is keeping the standard looking body and the second is a full special as Dave Mosey is using in your pick. Obviously a special will put you into a different class depending on the event you enter. You can make a standadr looking mini shell nearly as light as a special though with fibreglass roof and either fibreglass or carbon fibre boot lid and front end as Paul Swift used to use before he went to a special. Most important thing is a cross pin diff. As standard diffs will only normally last one or two events. Doesnt help performance. but at least the car will survive. Old Mini cooper disks and driveshafts would be next as this gives better braking over drums and means you can stick with 10" wheels which is a must for accelaration. The difference they make compared with 12" wheels is unbelievable. Anyone who wants to be competitive will use Yokohama A008 tyres as well but that depends how serious you want to be. You will get the best part of a season out of a front set. Rear tyres arent as important. Obviously all the interior needs to be stripped out and most people will fit the battery where the passenger seat is and fit a one gallon fuel tank under the bonnet. The boot floor can now be cut out saving quite a bit more weight. No need to fit a hydraulic handbrake to a mini. Just new cables new adjusters new shoes and cut some grooves into the rear drums. Spax shocks a set of hi lows and an MG metro 1275 engine are all you need to be able to beat pretty much everyone at club level. After that it gets expensive. ;D
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Dec 13, 2005 19:13:08 GMT
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Paul Swift (Russ the stunt drivers son) runs a mini special, watched him at the historic motorsport show spining round the small track they'd set up www.paulswiftmotorsport.com/Autotesting/Pages/Gallery.html have a look lower down the page, lots of pics from the building process Good luck with the project Thats actually Dave Moseys old car Paul bought it off him when he wanted to win the British Championship. Also forgot to say another thing most people do is eitehr convert the gearbox to Two speed (Paul got Ken Irwin to do this) or put a plate over the gearstick limiting it from going to third and fourth.
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Kris
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,631
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Dec 13, 2005 19:50:21 GMT
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I was going to do a full special as the roof is fairly rippled, its missing the bootlid/doors and needs the offside sill sorting but the idea of replacing the roofskin and bootlid with fibreglass replacements seems a good idea and far easier than removing most of the bodywork. The rear seat and boot floor can still come out though! That's why I pitched the idea to see what other ideas people had. I'll get it up and running on drums for now, S discs are stoopidly expensive, even a set that needs rebuilding go for a couple of hundred notes! The handbrake in my 1275 is so good (got a fly-off conversion) but I thought a hydraulic one would be pretty easy to set up and be nice to use with a long lever. Expect some photos after Christmas Starting with this...
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Last Edit: Dec 13, 2005 20:14:41 GMT by Kris
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Dec 13, 2005 21:15:34 GMT
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I was going to do a full special as the roof is fairly rippled, its missing the bootlid/doors and needs the offside sill sorting but the idea of replacing the roofskin and bootlid with fibreglass replacements seems a good idea and far easier than removing most of the bodywork. The rear seat and boot floor can still come out though! That's why I pitched the idea to see what other ideas people had. I'll get it up and running on drums for now, S discs are stoopidly expensive, even a set that needs rebuilding go for a couple of hundred notes! The handbrake in my 1275 is so good (got a fly-off conversion) but I thought a hydraulic one would be pretty easy to set up and be nice to use with a long lever. Expect some photos after Christmas Starting with this... I know a lot of people who fitted hydraulic handbrakes and went back to cable as it gives better balance and control on such a light car. I know the S discs have always been expensive but they are the best option. Adjustable front tie bars are also worth getting and I know some people who cut and extend the bottom arms to give more negative camber and better turn in but thats a matter of preference. Problem is mini`s end up being expensive autotest cars and for a lot of people end up deciding that they are more hassle than they are worth. But they are so easy to drive. A well prepared and well driven kit car can beat a mini on but it takes some doing.
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Dec 13, 2005 21:16:16 GMT
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Forgot to say a 4 core radiator is also a must ;D
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Davenger
Club Retro Rides Member
It's only metal
Posts: 7,272
Club RR Member Number: 140
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Christmas projectDavenger
@dminifreak
Club Retro Rides Member 140
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Dec 13, 2005 21:51:42 GMT
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You could get some 8.4 inch disks machined down like the Miglia racers. not sure what calipers they use though, probably stupidly expensive KAD jobbies
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Mr K
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,993
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Dec 14, 2005 13:58:51 GMT
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how does a flyoff handbrake work?? surly that is useless on the road?
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SidewaysGTM
Part of things
Spending my time at the Race track, Pub or in an Engine
Posts: 227
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Dec 14, 2005 16:10:47 GMT
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how does a flyoff handbrake work?? surly that is useless on the road? instead of pushing in the button to release you push the button into lock. very useful for doing those handbrake turn parking manouvers, or just do what i do in my mini and keep your finger on the button all the time cheepest fly off until my finger slips and i stall ;D Anyway me and minion have been chatting about his plans and a plan is evolving slowly WEST
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Live life sideways, Honda Powered GTM Coupe, you better belive it GTM Coupe VTEC Constant progression and acceleration 67' Triumph Vitesse 2ltr [finally decided what to do with it, at the planning stage] 92' Mini nearly std [SOLD and Missed] GTM ownersclub forum
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Dec 14, 2005 16:23:58 GMT
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cheap 10" disc conversion was 12" cut down and use mk1 festa calipers, i think wellers were the best to fit over these though.
there was loads of write-ups on miniclassic for this before it went w@nk on there.
find a bloke called billydude from leicester on the mini boards, i think he did a conversion and made a few web pages with info.
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Nick
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,483
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Dec 14, 2005 16:33:56 GMT
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yeh i fidn on small cars hydraulic handbrakes are very all or nothing and endn up with the car just spinning ...or that might just be me.
fly off handbrakes, in the "drift world" people have spin turn knobs, that allow you to use handbrake as a quick lever as opposed to pressing a button aswell, but then for parking you can pull the nob out and it operated like a normal handbrake and locks in place
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idea stolen from rattely eddie.
this weeks car count "5"
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Christmas projectslater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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Dec 14, 2005 16:55:40 GMT
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Surely a quickrack is needed?
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Dec 14, 2005 17:11:47 GMT
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Surely a quickrack is needed? Some people like quick racks and other people prefer without. In a lot of cases you don't need that much lock on as the back end should be coming round of its own accord thanks to the handbrake. Most autotest cars don't go on the road so many people just put a small self tapping screw through the button on the handbrake when its pressed back to stop it coming on. On my monza I have fabricated a vertical hydraulic handbrake that sits next to the gear stick and have left the cable brake alone so I can still get it MOT`ed
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Dec 14, 2005 17:52:55 GMT
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Try and get a Hornet/Elf front end for it.
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Kris
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,631
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Dec 14, 2005 19:32:10 GMT
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IIRC a standard Mini rack is 2.75 turns lock-to-lock and a quick Mini rack is 2.2 turns lock-to-lock. I've had a look at the Fiesta caliper conversionm before, I need to look into it more. An Elf/Hornet front end would look pretty cool but I'm goning to try and pick up a cheap s/h fibreglass roundnose front for it. The fly-off handbrake is great, just push the button in at the top of the travel to lock it. This is all I've been thinking about all day
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