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Sept 8, 2009 19:25:43 GMT
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Well, at 9am my Lupo was sold - Went off to new owners, and then I set off down to worcester to pick my new mini up (No pictures yet, I'll explain why!)
Steady 55/60mph drive back in it (120 miles) I got about 2 miles from home, and the car cut out at the traffic lights, and wouldn't restart (turned over 3 or 4 times slowly then stopped)
left it a minute and it kicked up again (Turned over LOADS faster), But I realised when I revved it that it's got a nasty knock from the bottom end at 3-4k.
Then, it cut out again, and did the same trick. left it a minute and nursed it into the supermarket carpark, where I inspected it - plenty of oil in (looked thin though?)
I left it 5 minutes and it drove me home, with a knocking noise (but not sooo loud)
It's a 1330 - +60 overbore on a 1275 block, with a stage 3 head, 276 cam, canems electronic ignition and the usual bigger carb and whatnot. Was supposed to have been rebuilt 2000 miles ago, and to be honest I think I believe the seller with this, it was lovely and tight up until I came off the motorway.
It's got an oil pressure gauge which showed right at the top when cold, and stuck around the middle all the way home. I recall 25psi on idle when very warm. It's still got around that on idle. The clutch has started making a really loud noise when it's down.
I suspect the flywheel might be loose? it's apparently becoming common because the new clutch kits are different and the haynes manual specifies an incorrect torque for the bolts?
Any help would be appreciated!
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Last Edit: Sept 8, 2009 19:26:00 GMT by cobblers
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Sept 8, 2009 19:34:59 GMT
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My experience of Minis is that they make all sorts of untoward noises and transmit them to the chassis. Solid engine and subby mounts make this worse, as do knackered ones. For the turning over, check your earth straps on both the engine and the battery. www.minifinity.com is worth signing up to.
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Jaguar S-Type 3.0 SE
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Sept 8, 2009 19:52:37 GMT
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Just drove it to the shop and back, and it started first time there and back, pulled brilliantly and everything, but there is still the knock, sounds very bottom endy, but there is still oil pressure? Is it enough? it was 50psi when I first started it, settled to about 25psi after a mile (on idle), water temp was about 70c. Here's a picture of the offending item:
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Last Edit: Sept 8, 2009 19:55:28 GMT by cobblers
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Sept 8, 2009 20:46:38 GMT
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could be oil pick up.... not letting it suck enough thru the pump and causing it to clatter... although if its a fresh build i cant imagine it having that trouble....
maybe the valves are out? might have bent a pushrod?
sounds like what my bug did before it seized up.... although that was all down to a recked head and my temp sender wasnt working
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Kyle67
Part of things
Posts: 554
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Sept 8, 2009 21:13:11 GMT
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You need to grab a friend and get them to press the clutch pedal up and down while you look at the crank pulley to see if it moves at all. Also check the timing, used to be quite common to adjust the timing to lessen bottom end knocks while selling a car. I've never come across the clutch/flywheel problem you mention in the past 30 years so it would be a new one on me...
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Sept 8, 2009 22:28:26 GMT
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Apparently the new clutch kits reuse the old mounting boss, and they never used to (it's now no longer made) - So now whoever fits the clutch has to bolt it to the boss. Haynes specifies 18lb/ft torque for some bolt which people confuse for these, which should be done to 45lb, with threadlock, so the lot comes loose and things turn sour.
My plan is to get the starter motor off, and see if the flywheel is loose, then get my mum to try on the clutch.
I wouldn't have thought the timing was an issue, the car pulls brilliantly from 1500-6000rpm.
Thanks for the advice!
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Sept 9, 2009 21:15:20 GMT
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Well, It's pretty much certainly the bottom end bearings - Flywheel is fine, barely noticeable endfloat, and a knock that gets louder as the car warms up.
I'm going to vanfest this weekend, but come tuesday morning I'll take it up to my nans and have the engine out.
I've been donated a massive pile of imperial tools (Spanners, Sockets, Drill bits, Taps etc) by a good mate who is clearing his late grandfathers workshop. All top notch stuff, and it will all get used and appreciated!
The bearings will only cost me £25 which is good news - Anyone got any idea of the cost of a crank grind if I need one?
I'm sure I'll run into something expensive, but even driving the car 2 miles with the engine knocking it's sack off and not venturing over 2500rpm absolutely made my day - I can't wait to get it sorted properly so I can really give it some abuse!
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Last Edit: Sept 9, 2009 21:17:15 GMT by cobblers
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Sept 10, 2009 0:32:00 GMT
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What sort of noise from the clutch when down? Could well be the release bearing - almost always overlooked!
It would take a lot of effort to make a flywheel loose enough to feel it move - I had one of these engines where the centre bolt practically fell out of the flywheel, but I still had to stand on the end of a breaker bar on the puller to get it to split due to the taper on the crankshaft.
Could well be big end bearings, but I would expect them to be knocking all the time, not just at certain rev's, and if the oil pressure is good then I can't really see that happening. Oil pressure is ok down to 15psi at idle - the warning lamp lights up at 7psi. on the move you should be seeing at least 55psi. What sort of rpm were you doing on the motorway?
Is it definately related to engine speed, not road speed? Do you know what oil has been used? anything other than 20w50 mineral oil will quickly ruin the gearbox, due to the shared oil, and for what it costs (usually around £7 for an oil and filter change) I would recommend changing the oil and filter at least every 3000 miles. Morrisons sell a reasonable quality 20w50 oil for just over £4 a gallon, I've done over 30000 miles using that oil and changing every 3k, and had no problems yet.
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Last Edit: Sept 10, 2009 0:33:53 GMT by chris1300
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,998
Club RR Member Number: 35
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Sept 10, 2009 17:04:12 GMT
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also worth checking that the crank pulley is tight (that makes a nasty noise) and check the compression. on my 1014 lump i had, that blew the head gasket between 2-3 bores. It ran, hadn't lost any oil/water and had good oil pressure yet sounded like the ends where hanging out. Could be that the head wasn't re-torqued properly?
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Sept 10, 2009 17:12:36 GMT
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The clutch makes a chattering/whining noise, so I assume the release bearing is a big rough anyway. I was at between 3k and 4k RPM.
I took the car out last night and let it get a bit warmer, and after a couple of miles the knock becomes constant. Not as loud when at low revs, but hit 3400rpm and it really clatters!
I'm guessing that because the engine was recently rebuilt the pressure would be very good, and a single bearing being dead (fitted wrong, or dodgy?) is enough to make a racket, but the engine can still maintain pressure?
I'll go check the crank pulley, but It's got a toothed wheel attached to it for the 36-1 crank sensor for the ECU, so I'm assuming if this was loose, the car would run like a sack of spuds? Could perhaps explain it not starting though?
edit: crank pulley is tight!
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Last Edit: Sept 10, 2009 17:26:28 GMT by cobblers
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