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I guess the loading of a car that low will be the biggest challange. Wouldn't it be possible to have the "ramps" act as sort of skids? So that you drive the car onto the ramps (which would be a shallower angle than the truckbed) and then the ramps (with the car ontop) could be pulled up onto the bed. That way you wouldn't have to worry about frontvalance clearance that much. Hope I explained it well and you possibly have thought of this idea already, but just wanted to share it anyway. ;D Thanks for that Rob, I know what you mean. One of the first things thatis going to get done on the GT6 is to lose that front noseplate ...the new one will not only look a bit better but will probably be not quite as close to the floor either  Your idea with the skid could possibly work but we have to be very carefull about how much weight we put back in the van, I think i´ve got a solution but I need the car over here so that I can have a play to see if it will work. Thats gonna be quite a lot of strain on the winch and straps, and fixing points on the van and car (I'd have thought) holding the car at an angle like that. Can you put the ramp on actuators? :-) I am a bit concerned about the strain too Tim, i´m planning some form of chocks that can be attached to the frame to reduce the strain on the belts. We thought about cutting some holes in the flatbed for the wheels to sit in but it would mean offloading would need a lot of brute force to get the car back out again. Your idea with the actuators would work but would add a lot of weight to the back which we don´t want as there´s not only the car to think about but spare tyres, tools spares etc that we need to load too. I hope that a fixed main flatbed and two extra loading ramps will be enough to get the Triumph loaded safely... Well I don´t want to bore you with loads of pics of me sanding the side panel down but this one is quite interesting, I found this old firebrigade coat of arms underneath one or two layers of paint yesterday. It´s been done in paint and not a sticker like nowadays, shame i have to to paint over it.  Well i´ll keep on sanding this lot down the next few days.......  i´ll update again as soon as you can tell i´ve actually been doing something  |
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Last Edit: Aug 27, 2009 5:15:54 GMT by Oldbus
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Thanks for that Rob, I know what you mean. One of the first things thatis going to get done on the GT6 is to lose that front noseplate ...the new one will not only look a bit better but will probably be not quite as close to the floor either Your idea with the skid could possibly work but we have to be very carefull about how much weight we put back in the van, I think i´ve got a solution but I need the car over here so that I can have a play to see if it will work. Well I don´t want to bore you with loads of pics of me sanding the side panel down but this one is quite interesting, I found this old firebrigade coat of arms underneath one or two layers of paint yesterday. It´s been done in paint and not a sticker like nowadays, shame I have to to paint over it. If the noseplate will be rebuild anyway, way not make it detachable? Then you got all the clearance you need obviously. You know where the coat of arms is from? Maybe it was a firetruck or something at some point. Looks cool, shame it will be painted over. |
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Current:
1983 Volkswagen 1200 Mexico
2021 Kia Niro Hybrid
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Former:
1989 Volkswagen Jetta
1990 Volkswagen Golf Madison
1996 Volkswagen Golf Wagon Happy Hour
2006 Fiat Panda 100HP
2006 Toyota Avensis Wagon
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Haven´t the foggiest mate 99% of all Taunus Transits that have survived are ex firebrigade - all the rest have rusted away! ...and a detachable front is definately on the "to do" list for the Triumph ;D |
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Tim
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,340
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Thats gonna be quite a lot of strain on the winch and straps, and fixing points on the van and car (I'd have thought) holding the car at an angle like that. Can you put the ramp on actuators? :-) I am a bit concerned about the strain too Tim, i´m planning some form of chocks that can be attached to the frame to reduce the strain on the belts. We thought about cutting some holes in the flatbed for the wheels to sit in but it would mean offloading would need a lot of brute force to get the car back out again. Your idea with the actuators would work but would add a lot of weight to the back which we don´t want as there´s not only the car to think about but spare tyres, tools spares etc that we need to load too. I hope that a fixed main flatbed and two extra loading ramps will be enough to get the Triumph loaded safely... Really not trying to pee on your chips, and just trying to be constructive, and I know i'm not an engineer, but in my head, generally if something doesnt seem right, then its usually not going to work as you would have expected. Especially when driving down a bumpy road! I wouldnt feel 100% happy with a car effectively hung off the tow hitch, or with a fair bit of sideways load on the suspension. How about...The frame loads the car up at an angle as is, but it runs on a hinged, sliding frame. The way I imagine it - you lock the frame into place at an angle - winch the car on and strap it down. You then unlock the frame, winch it down manually from an angle to horizontal, which at the same time slides it backwards slightly on the runners so the car ends up sat horizontally on the back of the van (albeit this may cause an overhang, but the majority of the weight should still be in front of the rear axle, i'd have thought) Then you have a lot less stress on the car and framework/van whilst in motion. Does that make sense? |
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Last Edit: Aug 27, 2009 9:16:44 GMT by Tim
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No probs Tim, open to discuss anything mate.
I understand what you´re saying and can see where you are coming from.
The main issue with having the GT6 parallel to the road on the back is that it´s going to have a massive overhang and look pretty naff too.
We considered extending the bed but that won´t look right either and a building a LWB version looks pretty cräp too.
With reversing the GT6 on the back we can park the rear overhang(boot) over the cab a bit and save some length, also with the engine at the rear we can keep the centre of gravity as low as possible too......
when i see what a lot of people got up to in the 60´s (before ratchet straps were invented) i think we can do better than that and we´ll come up with a safe solution hopefully.
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Aug 27, 2009 10:36:29 GMT
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Without reading all through the thread again i'm not sure what you intend to use as the deck floor. On the caravan/car transporter i drove we had a metal punched deck floor welded down to the frame. Stuff like this, puncheddecking.co.uk/store/product_info.php?products_id=28&osCsid=0e94fbe11d17febe5982ceb00e97523bNow if you use this for the section where the front wheels go, this means you could use proper wheel chocks that lock into the decking behind the wheels. these are what are used on car transporters, especially on the decks at weird angles. Unfortunately as for some reason i can't download PDF's I can't get pictures of said clamp, however they insert into the punched holes behind the wheels, turn the lever and lock into the decking. |
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1992 Citroen zx
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Aug 27, 2009 10:51:28 GMT
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Haven´t the foggiest mate 99% of all Taunus Transits that have survived are ex firebrigade - all the rest have rusted away! ...and a detachable front is definately on the "to do" list for the Triumph ;D Would be cool to know in which part of the country it was serving for a bit of history sake. I figured you would have thought of that. ;D Keep up the good work Dave. Any color scheme you though of yet, or is that for later decisions? |
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Current:
1983 Volkswagen 1200 Mexico
2021 Kia Niro Hybrid
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Former:
1989 Volkswagen Jetta
1990 Volkswagen Golf Madison
1996 Volkswagen Golf Wagon Happy Hour
2006 Fiat Panda 100HP
2006 Toyota Avensis Wagon
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Aug 27, 2009 11:38:08 GMT
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...and a detachable front is definately on the "to do" list for the Triumph ;D got an idea for that but would need to see a picture of one with the front off as well as I pic of the inside of the bonnet if it works i'll draw up a pic of my plan it shouldn't be complicated to do its bit awkward to put into words . but wold allow you to load it with the front of the hood area lifted |
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Last Edit: Aug 27, 2009 11:39:22 GMT by Deleted
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LowStandards
Club Retro Rides Member
Club Retro Rides Member 231
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Aug 27, 2009 12:06:59 GMT
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Most real car transporters (transit based etc) seem to be mostly made of 40*40*mm Angle with a checkerplate bed and i've never seen one collapse or owt. Now i know they don't use the steep angle your using, but i cant help think yours will be perfectly strong enough...
I reckon once you've got it up there a suitable set of chocks and some 2-3" straps will do just dandy!!!
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stevea
Part of things
Posts: 281
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Aug 27, 2009 12:12:20 GMT
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got an idea for that but would need to see a picture of one with the front off as well as I pic of the inside of the bonnet if it works i'll draw up a pic of my plan it shouldn't be complicated to do its bit awkward to put into words . but wold allow you to load it with the front of the hood area lifted No idea how his GT6 bonnet is hinged at the moment or how the front of the chassis may have been modified, but here are a couple of shots of the front of my chassis and a view into the behind of the bonnet.   |
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BiAS
Club Retro Rides Member
Insert witty comment here
Posts: 2,231
Club RR Member Number: 147
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Aug 27, 2009 19:28:33 GMT
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Dave, John, I'm astounded, it'll be awesome  |
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(car+wheels)-rideheight=WIN
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Without reading all through the thread again i'm not sure what you intend to use as the deck floor. On the caravan/car transporter I drove we had a metal punched deck floor welded down to the frame. Stuff like this, puncheddecking.co.uk/store/product_info.php?products_id=28&osCsid=0e94fbe11d17febe5982ceb00e97523bNow if you use this for the section where the front wheels go, this means you could use proper wheel chocks that lock into the decking behind the wheels. these are what are used on car transporters, especially on the decks at weird angles. Unfortunately as for some reason I can't download PDF's I can't get pictures of said clamp, however they insert into the punched holes behind the wheels, turn the lever and lock into the decking. Thanks for that link Dean, as we need the deck (ramp) to be watertight so that we can use the room underneath i´ll be going a different way with the materials used. I´ve bought some 22mm HDF (High Density Fibreboard) - it´s the stuff the professionals use when building lorry floors. It will be glued and screwed down to the frame, is waterproof and will take the load easily. Once that´s all in i´ll then drill some holes in the frame, through the HDF, for the locking clamps. Would be cool to know in which part of the country it was serving for a bit of history sake. I figured you would have thought of that. ;D Keep up the good work Dave. Any color scheme you though of yet, or is that for later decisions? Rob, the coat of arms is only on the spare door that i welded in mate, so not too bothered about it´s history. The van will be staying in the Gulf livery and the GT6 will be getting the same treatment too ...and a detachable front is definately on the "to do" list for the Triumph ;D got an idea for that but would need to see a picture of one with the front off as well as I pic of the inside of the bonnet if it works i'll draw up a pic of my plan it shouldn't be complicated to do its bit awkward to put into words . but wold allow you to load it with the front of the hood area lifted Cheers Mark, i know what you mean mate cheers, i´m sure John will be in touch as soon as he gets the GT6 in his hands... Most real car transporters (transit based etc) seem to be mostly made of 40*40*mm Angle with a checkerplate bed and i've never seen one collapse or owt. Now I know they don't use the steep angle your using, but I cant help think yours will be perfectly strong enough... I reckon once you've got it up there a suitable set of chocks and some 2-3" straps will do just dandy!!! thanks for that, nice to know i´m not that far off.  To be fair i think the angle on those photos looks a lot steeper than it is in real life and i think with the clamps and ratchet straps we should be ok....definately a case of build it first and see if it works after i´ve bought some checkerplate just incase and might end up putting it on top of the HDF but hopefully we´ll get away without using it as it´s heavy and i´m trying to save weight. Thanks for those pics Steve, much appreciated. Oh and cheers Ian, just as mad as you lot eh? Well i didn´t get anything done yesterday, spent some time with Mrs Oldbus so that i can get stuck in this weekend without having a guilty conscience |
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Aug 30, 2009 17:51:06 GMT
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quick update...I´ll spare you the details but after a whole weekend of sanding this.....  ...as the temperatures are quite decent I managed to get it in primer....  it´s still a long way off being ready for paint but i´m getting there slowly  ....good thing now is, I can carry on fabricating the ramp and don´t have to motivate myself to sand filler any more! evening.... ;D |
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Last Edit: Aug 31, 2009 2:05:19 GMT by Oldbus
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Aug 31, 2009 17:56:13 GMT
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I made the most of an afternoon off and got some welding done on the frame. Whilst it was nice and warm in the garage I thought i´d make the most of it and sanded down the primer and gave the top half a coat of orange....  ..sorry about the iffy pic but it´s come out quite well!! |
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Last Edit: Sept 1, 2009 4:46:06 GMT by Oldbus
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Aug 31, 2009 19:25:04 GMT
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this is gona look amazing going down the road with both the van and triumph in full gulf livery, keep it up !
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2001 Micra 998 - Daily
1986 Mini Mayfair 998 - Former Daily - Garaged
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Sept 1, 2009 17:54:49 GMT
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this is gona look amazing going down the road with both the van and triumph in full gulf livery, keep it up ! Cheers mate, will do! small update from todays antics... The frame is now slowly starting to look like it´ll support the car and flatbed ...  This top beam has a dual function, it´ll act as a stop for the rear tyres whilst winching up and i´ll be welding a bracket to it for the winch pulley as the winch is going on the floor behind the front seats...  ....with the bottom bit i´m going to have to be clever and start thinking about how i´m going to build the retractable loading ramps....  |
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Last Edit: Sept 2, 2009 5:20:57 GMT by Oldbus
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Sept 1, 2009 18:57:58 GMT
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Progress indeed Dave.
Tried to call you 9pm, German time..... erm, Fail.
Chat soon. Its easier to describe and discuss rather than type it all here.
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Sept 1, 2009 19:50:26 GMT
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got an idea for that but would need to see a picture of one with the front off as well as I pic of the inside of the bonnet if it works i'll draw up a pic of my plan it shouldn't be complicated to do its bit awkward to put into words . but wold allow you to load it with the front of the hood area lifted No idea how his GT6 bonnet is hinged at the moment or how the front of the chassis may have been modified, but here are a couple of shots of the front of my chassis and a view into the behind of the bonnet. cheer's gives a bit to go on for ideas and being a race type car there's a little more scope i think . |
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Sept 1, 2009 21:39:00 GMT
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This top beam has a dual function, it´ll act as a stop for the rear tyres whilst winching up and i´ll be welding a bracket to it for the winch pulley as the winch is going on the floor behind the front seats... Would you not be better mounting the winch on the bed you are building but at the back of the van and still use the pulley at the top then the custom built frame takes all the stress and you don't have to reinforce the van floor behind the seats for the winch? Also could you fit more than one pulley and use a cheaper, smaller and lighter winch? Like this:  Is the car going to overhang the back of the van? Will the tow bar still be usable (thought I read that it will have the trailer on the back) could the ramps be removable and mounted elsewhere, I know this is not as neat. Sorry for the ramble John. |
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Sept 1, 2009 22:07:34 GMT
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This top beam has a dual function, it´ll act as a stop for the rear tyres whilst winching up and i´ll be welding a bracket to it for the winch pulley as the winch is going on the floor behind the front seats... Would you not be better mounting the winch on the bed you are building but at the back of the van and still use the pulley at the top then the custom built frame takes all the stress and you don't have to reinforce the van floor behind the seats for the winch? Also could you fit more than one pulley and use a cheaper, smaller and lighter winch? Like this: Is the car going to overhang the back of the van? Will the tow bar still be usable (thought I read that it will have the trailer on the back) could the ramps be removable and mounted elsewhere, I know this is not as neat. Sorry for the ramble John. Which is exactly why I love this site. |
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