zircon
Part of things
Posts: 327
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Hey Spiny
I have just come across this thread and the similarities with my situation are uncanny......
In 1973 my parents bought a 1275 RWA midget brand new from their local BL garage in Reading where i grew up.
I was born in 1980....
My Dad drove from Reading to Slough in the car every week day for his job from 1973 until 1983 when he bought an MG Metro and the Midget was pushed into their garage where he rebuilt the engine which needed attention.
The car went back on the road as a 2nd car until 1986 when it again went in the garage for new sills to get welded on. He did 1 sill and then never touched the car again.
In 1987 we moved house and the Midget has sat in the current garage for the last 24 years without being touched and, like yours, getting covered in lawnmower bits, timber, general curse word etc.
I used to take my school mates into the garage and show them the car (before it got really covered) and vowed one day to drive it. I am nagging him like crazy to restore it together and fulfill a dream. He is 64 and if he doesn't do it now then he never will.
Your post is an inspiration and one I hope to emulate with the family history.
Out of interest, where did you learn to weld? I have never tackled anything other than light restoration - no welding or thorough work like this before......
Rob
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spiny
Club Retro Rides Member
Wiki Admin
I am abivalent towards car electrics ...
Posts: 1,331
Club RR Member Number: 167
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1970 MG Midget 1275spiny
@spiny
Club Retro Rides Member 167
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A HIF38 is probably a bit on the small side for a 1275cc - most of these were fitted to economy-oriented 998cc Metros; you'll probably find a HIF44 to be better (I have one on my 1275cc MG Midget engine with MG Metro needle and it runs very nicely, while returning up to 40mpg). i'll keep an eye on ebay  as seems to happen over time, my garage filled up with 'stuff' again, so spent some time yesterday tidying, rather than actually doing anything  |
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spiny
Club Retro Rides Member
Wiki Admin
I am abivalent towards car electrics ...
Posts: 1,331
Club RR Member Number: 167
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1970 MG Midget 1275spiny
@spiny
Club Retro Rides Member 167
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Out of interest, where did you learn to weld? I have never tackled anything other than light restoration - no welding or thorough work like this before...... Rob I did a course at my local college years ago, then bought a 100 amp welder and got stuck in as with everything, you just get better with practice - last month I cut out some repairs I did on my van 9 years ago as they were terrible if there is one thing I have learnt though, is that "it's all in the prep" - clean metal gives good welds, trying to weld onto rust just doesn't work  good lcuk with getting the project started |
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spiny
Club Retro Rides Member
Wiki Admin
I am abivalent towards car electrics ...
Posts: 1,331
Club RR Member Number: 167
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1970 MG Midget 1275spiny
@spiny
Club Retro Rides Member 167
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some pics from last week, when i started working on the drivers door: various repairs over the years in evedence here:  the inside had been layered with 'glass (presumably by my dad)  bottom half chopped out  replacement outer skin offered up:  I have since chopped out all the outer skin, as the repair panel is good and should 'just fit' the inner panel seems ok apart from a few crusty bits at the bottom which should be easy enough to nip out and let in fresh metal. The main problem I'm having is getting the old lock barrel out of the outer skin  will probably just cut a line to the barrel |
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chrisf
Part of things
Posts: 18
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Hi there, i've got a 1968 sprite, remember looking at this thread a year or two ago, good to see its still going!
just wondering, how noisy is that fuel pump? i've just had my old one go so i replaced it with the square ones and it seems rather loud.. don't know if its normal or it may have a air lock!
oh, and i had great fun trying to get a lock out my door to replace it.... you can get a little kit to stop the locks rotating as well as being easier to get out in future. they do up with grumb screws rather than the metal clip - worth doing while your there
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spiny
Club Retro Rides Member
Wiki Admin
I am abivalent towards car electrics ...
Posts: 1,331
Club RR Member Number: 167
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1970 MG Midget 1275spiny
@spiny
Club Retro Rides Member 167
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the fuel pump is quite noisy, but once the engine starts, you can't hear it. it is very loud when it's priming, butquietens down a bit once it's flowing fuel though. amusingly, with the two pumps and regulator I've bought, I could have just bought a replacement su pump in the first place |
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the fuel pump is quite noisy, but once the engine starts, you can't hear it. it is very loud when it's priming, butquietens down a bit once it's flowing fuel though. amusingly, with the two pumps and regulator I've bought, I could have just bought a replacement su pump in the first place I bought a brand new replacement SU for my dad's from Moss in what, about 2001... it worked properly for about a month. Ever since then the routine [switch on ignition] [grab 2"x4"] [Assume army sniper position under right rear wheelarch] [flail with wood, hoping to hit pump] [wallop pump, gaTUNK-gaTUNK-gaTUNK-katunk-TAK-TAK-TAK------TAK----------TAK] It isn't worth it. Keep with the modern one, every time --Phil |
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spiny
Club Retro Rides Member
Wiki Admin
I am abivalent towards car electrics ...
Posts: 1,331
Club RR Member Number: 167
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1970 MG Midget 1275spiny
@spiny
Club Retro Rides Member 167
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maybe it's the cold weather that attracts me to the garage for some weird reason, but had a pleasant few hours this evening tinkering with the door again ... original door all stripped down, the edges need de-rusting with a flap wheel, and possibly a few repairs, but it's not as bad as i thought it was, some seam sealer may be all thats needed after the new outer is on.  outer clamped on:   donor door. the original door has (had) a broken winder mech, which apparently broke some time in the late seventies and my dad just put up with lifting the glass by hand when needing to close the window. The tiny pot metal hinge on the quarter light was also snapped. So this door is giving up it's internals and quarter light for the cause. You may wonder why I don't just use the whole door ... well, i don't know really, it just seemed like fun to rebuild the original door. I may regret this when swearing at the microscopic nuts that hold the door handle on ...  donor winder mech in place and greased up:  I thought I could get away with fitting the internals then fitting the skin, but the quarter light need to go in after, which means lots of jiggering about with the glass. well, it might be fun |
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spiny
Club Retro Rides Member
Wiki Admin
I am abivalent towards car electrics ...
Posts: 1,331
Club RR Member Number: 167
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1970 MG Midget 1275spiny
@spiny
Club Retro Rides Member 167
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the fuel pump is quite noisy, but once the engine starts, you can't hear it. it is very loud when it's priming, butquietens down a bit once it's flowing fuel though. amusingly, with the two pumps and regulator I've bought, I could have just bought a replacement su pump in the first place I bought a brand new replacement SU for my dad's from Moss in what, about 2001... it worked properly for about a month. Ever since then the routine [switch on ignition] [grab 2"x4"] [Assume army sniper position under right rear wheelarch] [flail with wood, hoping to hit pump] [wallop pump, gaTUNK-gaTUNK-gaTUNK-katunk-TAK-TAK-TAK------TAK----------TAK] It isn't worth it. Keep with the modern one, every time --Phil that makes me feel better |
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The answer is to fit an electronic conversion kit from Burlen fuel systems, which does away with the points. I fitted one to my Morris Traveller, and it's been totally reliable in all weathers. www.sucarb.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Id=33152 |
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spiny
Club Retro Rides Member
Wiki Admin
I am abivalent towards car electrics ...
Posts: 1,331
Club RR Member Number: 167
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1970 MG Midget 1275spiny
@spiny
Club Retro Rides Member 167
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Nov 16, 2011 12:30:33 GMT
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not much of an update, but the bag of relays I ordered turned up today. Going to relay the headlamps and horn to start with, then maybe the brake lights too.  |
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Last Edit: Nov 16, 2011 12:35:56 GMT by spiny
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Nov 16, 2011 15:31:29 GMT
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O ReLaY? not much of an update, but the bag of relays I ordered turned up today. Going to relay the headlamps and horn to start with, then maybe the brake lights too. YA ReLaY sorry...  Good work on the doors! have fun with the wiring! |
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Full of automotive and culinary delights visit:  1994 Subaru Legacy Estate Turbo 1985 Vauxhall Nova SR 1995 Fiat Cinquecento Sporting |
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spiny
Club Retro Rides Member
Wiki Admin
I am abivalent towards car electrics ...
Posts: 1,331
Club RR Member Number: 167
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1970 MG Midget 1275spiny
@spiny
Club Retro Rides Member 167
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Jan 31, 2012 23:17:09 GMT
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not much done recently, just haven't been 'feeling it', but I've decided to get it together and finish off all the little things, so started with fitting a separate water temp sensor. the dash gauge is capillary (and the 'lead' was rotten) and the Marina block has a crusty looking electric sender which -refuses- to come out, so rather than risk breaking it, i got one of these little inline housing things off ebay. I fitted it to the top hose, as it's the cheapest hose to replace, in case i cut it wrong    and fitted:  gratuitous shot of the car:  |
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mikeymk
Part of things
'85 Polo Coupe S 1.6 16v
Posts: 931
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"..ebay.." "..drunk.." Haha, classic
Always wanted one of these, but can't justify two seats or two cars (my daily is about the same weight but can't compare with the go-kart nature of one of these).
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spiny
Club Retro Rides Member
Wiki Admin
I am abivalent towards car electrics ...
Posts: 1,331
Club RR Member Number: 167
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1970 MG Midget 1275spiny
@spiny
Club Retro Rides Member 167
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slight update, but no pics... water temp sensor is fitted, but not connected yet, but doesn't leak when the engine is up to temp I've given the floor a good coat of high build primer (brushed on nice and thick) in an attempt to keep the weather at bay when it finally gets out on the road, as I doubt i'll ever use the hood, only the tonneau cover. Gojng to give the rear brakes another ponder tomorrow and try and work out what i've missed I have also noticed that when going quickly in reverse, either the gearbox or the diff is screaming like mad ... something to worry about later |
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spiny
Club Retro Rides Member
Wiki Admin
I am abivalent towards car electrics ...
Posts: 1,331
Club RR Member Number: 167
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1970 MG Midget 1275spiny
@spiny
Club Retro Rides Member 167
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non update update  had the mg out on the drive a few times in the last few weeks, trying to finish off the small things ready for a possible MOT appointment in the next few months. fitted: seatbelts - i've gone for standard three points and put the harness in storage, as they were fiddly and uncomfortable. fixed: charging system. as always, check the easy things first ... spent ages taking things apart, tracing wires and so on, and in the end, the fault was that the bulb in the dashboard was blown, so the charging circuit wouldn't work ... still checking: brakes. they are still spongy, i think i'll pump through fresh fluid too, just in case the stuff I used was contaminated somehow, it might have mixed with the 30+ year old stuff still in the rear drums maybe. to do: many many things ~ relays for headlamps ~ earths for all other lamps ~ interior pleasantries, carpet and panels etc ~test run (on a private road obviously) to check I've fitted the diff, prop, gearbox, clutch and engine properly ! |
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spiny
Club Retro Rides Member
Wiki Admin
I am abivalent towards car electrics ...
Posts: 1,331
Club RR Member Number: 167
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1970 MG Midget 1275spiny
@spiny
Club Retro Rides Member 167
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May 31, 2014 23:41:44 GMT
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Pretty much a year on, and not much has happened I got a new job which severely restricted my free time, so progress has been slow, but things have been happening - I have been out for a few short drives up and down the road, and it seems to drive OK, which is nice, though the gear change was a bit notchy, so I decided to change the fluid - and there wasn't any ... It's been driiping a bit ever since I've had it in my garage, so presumably in the 30 years it's been off the road, it all dripped out much less notchy now though. I have to do: fit new fuel tank fit the shiny 'superpro' bush set fit the rebuilt door book MOT! and heres a pic from a few weeks ago - it's almost depressing how little has changed from the pic up there ^  |
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spiny
Club Retro Rides Member
Wiki Admin
I am abivalent towards car electrics ...
Posts: 1,331
Club RR Member Number: 167
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1970 MG Midget 1275spiny
@spiny
Club Retro Rides Member 167
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well, nearly ten years on from starting this thread, the MG is now in semi regular use it still needs loads of snagging, the engine is idling too high and lacks power, there are alarming noises from the gearbox and the electrics need a complete overhaul, but it's on the road  current plans: drive it more |
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MiataMark
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,971
Club RR Member Number: 29
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1970 MG Midget 1275MiataMark
@garra
Club Retro Rides Member 29
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Driving it more might sort out some of the niggles.
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1990 Mazda MX-52012 BMW 118i (170bhp) - white appliance 2011 Land Rover Freelander 2 TD4 2003 Land Rover Discovery II TD52007 Alfa Romeo 159 Sportwagon JTDm
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spiny
Club Retro Rides Member
Wiki Admin
I am abivalent towards car electrics ...
Posts: 1,331
Club RR Member Number: 167
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1970 MG Midget 1275spiny
@spiny
Club Retro Rides Member 167
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Jul 15, 2019 10:19:08 GMT
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Driving it more might sort out some of the niggles. exactly |
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