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Right well my mates 1303 is playing hell recently. to start with it leaks through the vent on the panel between the window and bonnet, this has fried his CD player, and we think its blown his fuses. My first question then... Is the drain hole in the box (which contains the wiper motor) the single hole which goes into the cabin and connects to two hoses which go down the bulkhead and out of sight. Secondly. He will drive for around 5 miles until the engine cuts out at lights or when he brakes, ie off the throttle. It wont start for a while afterwards. Is this fuelling or timing or what? and thirdly. are his electrics all fried now. Lights keep blowing the switch. Wipers work. Leccy windows don't, CD don't. Any ideas?  |
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vented bonnet, yes? there should be a black plastic 'box' which sits under this, which sounds like its present - correct? there should be a drain tube from that, down to about halfway down the under bonnet area, and out through that hole.
What the deal with the running probs? Does it start ok? idle ok initially? probably best for him to check the timing is correct as thats easy to do, and then check the carb is clean and setup correctly.
His electrics are probably past their best, most are! What fuses are blowing? You'll need to get handy with a multimeter and work out whats shorting where and what is causing fuses to blow. don't just stick a bigger fuse in there, that is not the way to solve problems like this and increases the risk of the electrics burning!!
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The vents arent in the bonnet. They are in the scutle panel between the windscreen and the bonnet. They do go into a box but there are no drain holes minus the hole from which the two pipes inside extend.
The idle seems fine. Its lumpy though which sounds like the timing. But i wouldnt have thought the timing would cause it to cut out once warm. Could this be the mixture.
I don't know which fuses are blowing as they have all pretty much got wet and blown. I will check it all with a multimeter and see if the fuses are doing their job. Ill check everything else too.
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the drain hole goes into the cabin and then back out above the steering linkage etc. it's a black rubber tube, prob blocked with leaves and that. most likley the bulkhead box containing the wiper has rusted out. just remove the pannel from inside the boot area and look inside the box.
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oh. and the bonnet is at the back of the car  |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,201
Club RR Member Number: 170
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1303 Beetle Troubles.ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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I would look at the rotor arm. Mine was fairly similar in cutting out. Also check what dizzy he has. The Bosch 009 dizzys are not the most consistent things in the world but are much cheaper than the original dizzies.
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How to fix all electrical problems relating to fuses blowing:  |
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kabman
Part of things
Posts: 348 
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Carb icing is a common problem on Beetles and could be the cause of it cutting out after a few minutes.
When the engine cuts out quickly open the decklid and check if the inlet manifold just beneath the carb looks frosty or feels very cold to the touch. The heat risers can get blocked with carbon.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,201
Club RR Member Number: 170
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1303 Beetle Troubles.ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Carb icing is a common problem on Beetles and could be the cause of it cutting out after a few minutes. When the engine cuts out quickly open the decklid and check if the inlet manifold just beneath the carb looks frosty or feels very cold to the touch. The heat risers can get blocked with carbon. This. Those heater pipes you should not be able to touch when the car is warmed up. Generally, you can tell if the carb is icing by looking at the manifold neck directly under the carb. An IMDU (Inlet Manifold De-icing Unit) might be a short term solution to this but ideally you want the manifold cleaned out. Another thing, what airfilter are you using? Contrary to popular belief, the standard airbox is actually quite good, and deals with deicing with the Greenpack and so forth filters do not deal with. |
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1303 Beetle Troubles.retrowagen1234
@GUEST
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try the fuel cut off solenoid in the side of the carb... make sure it clicks when you turn the ignition on. also try this after it cuts out as sometimes they jam. easy fix is unscrew it and cut the rod and ball off the end of it (rendering it useless) the only downside is that the car may "run on" a bit but only usually happens when realy hot.
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Right well I'm over there tomorrow so will check all the dizzy bit and the rotor arm. It running some after market filter. Possibly K&N but I'm not too sure. He says its a recently rebuilt engine by the previous owner. If this makes any difference.
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1303 Beetle Troubles.retrowagen1234
@GUEST
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k&n shouldnt make a great deal of difference to it... in any respect. (except maybe popping back up the inlet on the run off) for random cutting out id aim at fueling , either the idle circuit (where the solenoid is) , jets (junk in the carb ) or the tank being blocked.... its quite possible that it gets enough down to run for a while but then a decent run on a steady pedal makes it starve and cut out.... meaning it has to trickle down /syphon enough to get started again.. (which could explain the wait) the solenoid as i said is an easy check and its a very common fault with bugs...
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I'm not clued up on the carbs in VWs and his haynes is for the wrong beelte. Would it still be on the 1300 beetle? If so ill look in his book and see whats what.
He says it sometimes stinks of petrol too.
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Jul 10, 2009 13:31:54 GMT
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I'm not clued up on the carbs in VWs and his haynes is for the wrong beelte. Would it still be on the 1300 beetle? If so ill look in his book and see whats what. He says it sometimes stinks of petrol too. Most VW Type 1 carbs are vaguely similar. Australian delivered beetles are a bit different to UK ones, but I'm assuming that the 1303 should have a 34PICT or something like that. Maybe just a 30mm one since it's only a 1300. The basic principles of tuning are similar, the only difference being that some of the adjustment screws migrated around the carb body over the years. |
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Jul 11, 2009 20:16:08 GMT
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Right decided his electric problems are doen to a seriously grubby fuse box.
Its stop cutting out now except it stills stalls when he breaks....
And its also melted two head light switches. Is the the wrong fuse?
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Jul 12, 2009 22:41:57 GMT
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Any ideas folks?
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,201
Club RR Member Number: 170
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1303 Beetle Troubles.ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Right well I'm over there tomorrow so will check all the dizzy bit and the rotor arm. It running some after market filter. Possibly K&N but I'm not too sure. He says its a recently rebuilt engine by the previous owner. If this makes any difference. Maybe the K&N may not make much difference but it wouldn't help with the carb freezing. Stock boxes come with a hot air vent which switches into position when the car is cold to aid cold running, something most aftermarket kits are missing. In addition, it has a stub stack built within it to aid airflow. People bin them thinking that the oil filled air filters do nothing. They were much more effective than the K&Ns etc. as testing in dusty conditions with them proved. |
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